johnam

Some of the things I remember are: Oil filter, Fuel filter, PCV valve, transmission & cooling system flush, piston cleaning (?), check brakes, multi point check and a couple of other things. What additional things do you think are beneficial at 30k? Thanks for you expert advice

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johnam

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hyundaitech

Here's my thoughts, which may not agree with anyone else's.

1. Oil and filter. I presume you're doing this at a time when an oil
change is needed.

2. Fuel filter. I believe the recommended interval is 52,500 miles. My
personal opinion is that 30k is a bit early for this and that the fuel
filter will likely last for much more than 60k.

3. PCV valve. I don't recall whether this is on the maintenance list in
the owner's manual. Very rarely have I ever seen one go bad, but it's
cheap enough to be worth doing anyway. If it plugs up and you get
excessive crankcase pressure, you could develop oil leaks.

4. Trans flush. Even though the recommended interval is 105k, I think
this service or a fluid drain and fill around 30k is a good idea. Well,
actually, I think the flush is a little excessive, but the drain and fill
is a good idea. For the most part, I don't recommend this service for the
customers where I work unless the fluid is really nasty or the vehicle is
actually in the neighborhood of 105k. To put this all in perspective, I'm
changing the fluid in my 1992 Taurus at 15k intervals. Tauruses are
notorious for transmission problems, and I'm attempting to see if I can
get the one I put in about 32k ago to last more than the seemingly normal
70k.

4. Coolant flush. You should do a flush or drain and fill every two
years, regardless of mileage. I do a drain and fill in my car every year,
but most people consider this overkill.

5. Piston cleaning. I'm not sure exactly what's being done here, but I
suspect it's some sort of induction (intake) system cleaning. Unless
there's some problem you're having that this will potentially solve, I'd
consider this pure fluff.

6. Multipoint and brake inspection. Most shops will do this for free
anyway. It's good to have done, but you really shouldn't consider this to
be substantially adding to the value of the service.

You should also consider replacing the timing belt. I know this is a
pricey item on this vehicle, but the maintenance interval is 4 years or
60k miles, whichever comes first. Presuming you're outside that period
since you have a 2001 XG, you should consider replacing it. Should the
belt break or strip, you'd be responsible for any damage that would cause
(except in California where it would appear that Hyundai cannot make you
change the timing belt to continue warranty coverage), and that would be
far more expensive than replacing the belt. Chances are, it'll last
another year, but if it doesn't, you'll probably see a repair bill the
size of which you've never seen before.

And I'll add that when the car is there, they may find things they want to
do to your car at additional expense. The service advisor should be able
to clearly explain to you why the service is recommended and the potential
consequences of not doing the service. If it sounds unclear or dubious,
tell them you'd like to think it over and then contact someone
knowledgeable who you know and trust. Too often, customers want to
understand about their cars and where their service money is going, but no
one gives them substantial information.

hyundaitech

Here's my thoughts, which may not agree with anyone else's.

1. Oil and filter. I presume you're doing this at a time when an oil
change is needed.

2. Fuel filter. I believe the recommended interval is 52,500 miles. My
personal opinion is that 30k is a bit early for this and that the fuel
filter will likely last for much more than 60k.

3. PCV valve. I don't recall whether this is on the maintenance list in
the owner's manual. Very rarely have I ever seen one go bad, but it's
cheap enough to be worth doing anyway. If it plugs up and you get
excessive crankcase pressure, you could develop oil leaks.

4. Trans flush. Even though the recommended interval is 105k, I think
this service or a fluid drain and fill around 30k is a good idea. Well,
actually, I think the flush is a little excessive, but the drain and fill
is a good idea. For the most part, I don't recommend this service for the
customers where I work unless the fluid is really nasty or the vehicle is
actually in the neighborhood of 105k. To put this all in perspective, I'm
changing the fluid in my 1992 Taurus at 15k intervals. Tauruses are
notorious for transmission problems, and I'm attempting to see if I can
get the one I put in about 32k ago to last more than the seemingly normal
70k.

4. Coolant flush. You should do a flush or drain and fill every two
years, regardless of mileage. I do a drain and fill in my car every year,
but most people consider this overkill.

5. Piston cleaning. I'm not sure exactly what's being done here, but I
suspect it's some sort of induction (intake) system cleaning. Unless
there's some problem you're having that this will potentially solve, I'd
consider this pure fluff.

6. Multipoint and brake inspection. Most shops will do this for free
anyway. It's good to have done, but you really shouldn't consider this to
be substantially adding to the value of the service.

You should also consider replacing the timing belt. I know this is a
pricey item on this vehicle, but the maintenance interval is 4 years or
60k miles, whichever comes first. Presuming you're outside that period
since you have a 2001 XG, you should consider replacing it. Should the
belt break or strip, you'd be responsible for any damage that would cause
(except in California where it would appear that Hyundai cannot make you
change the timing belt to continue warranty coverage), and that would be
far more expensive than replacing the belt. Chances are, it'll last
another year, but if it doesn't, you'll probably see a repair bill the
size of which you've never seen before.

And I'll add that when the car is there, they may find things they want to
do to your car at additional expense. The service advisor should be able
to clearly explain to you why the service is recommended and the potential
consequences of not doing the service. If it sounds unclear or dubious,
tell them you'd like to think it over and then contact someone
knowledgeable who you know and trust. Too often, customers want to
understand about their cars and where their service money is going, but no
one gives them substantial information.

hyundaitech

Here's my thoughts, which may not agree with anyone else's.

1. Oil and filter. I presume you're doing this at a time when an oil
change is needed.

2. Fuel filter. I believe the recommended interval is 52,500 miles. My
personal opinion is that 30k is a bit early for this and that the fuel
filter will likely last for much more than 60k.

3. PCV valve. I don't recall whether this is on the maintenance list in
the owner's manual. Very rarely have I ever seen one go bad, but it's
cheap enough to be worth doing anyway. If it plugs up and you get
excessive crankcase pressure, you could develop oil leaks.

4. Trans flush. Even though the recommended interval is 105k, I think
this service or a fluid drain and fill around 30k is a good idea. Well,
actually, I think the flush is a little excessive, but the drain and fill
is a good idea. For the most part, I don't recommend this service for the
customers where I work unless the fluid is really nasty or the vehicle is
actually in the neighborhood of 105k. To put this all in perspective, I'm
changing the fluid in my 1992 Taurus at 15k intervals. Tauruses are
notorious for transmission problems, and I'm attempting to see if I can
get the one I put in about 32k ago to last more than the seemingly normal
70k.

4. Coolant flush. You should do a flush or drain and fill every two
years, regardless of mileage. I do a drain and fill in my car every year,
but most people consider this overkill.

5. Piston cleaning. I'm not sure exactly what's being done here, but I
suspect it's some sort of induction (intake) system cleaning. Unless
there's some problem you're having that this will potentially solve, I'd
consider this pure fluff.

6. Multipoint and brake inspection. Most shops will do this for free
anyway. It's good to have done, but you really shouldn't consider this to
be substantially adding to the value of the service.

You should also consider replacing the timing belt. I know this is a
pricey item on this vehicle, but the maintenance interval is 4 years or
60k miles, whichever comes first. Presuming you're outside that period
since you have a 2001 XG, you should consider replacing it. Should the
belt break or strip, you'd be responsible for any damage that would cause
(except in California where it would appear that Hyundai cannot make you
change the timing belt to continue warranty coverage), and that would be
far more expensive than replacing the belt. Chances are, it'll last
another year, but if it doesn't, you'll probably see a repair bill the
size of which you've never seen before.

And I'll add that when the car is there, they may find things they want to
do to your car at additional expense. The service advisor should be able
to clearly explain to you why the service is recommended and the potential
consequences of not doing the service. If it sounds unclear or dubious,
tell them you'd like to think it over and then contact someone
knowledgeable who you know and trust. Too often, customers want to
understand about their cars and where their service money is going, but no
one gives them substantial information.

Rev. Tom Wenndt

As usual, excellent post, Mr. Hyundaitech. A couple of comments and
questions.

*First, add me as one who does not consider a "drain and fill" for the
radiator every year excessive. For me, it is part of winterizing that I do
every Fall. When I see the condition of the coolant in every car I have
changed it in, I would be very hesitant to wait two years to do that. That
is, of course, for the cars that use the standard "green" coolant. I also
have a car with the red "dex-cool" and I don't know what to do there.

*Since I have had failures in cars in years past due both to bad PCV valves,
and clogged fuel filters, I have had very strict parameters on those also.
Unless it is one of those "in-fuel-pump" filters located inside the fuel
tank, or unless I just plain can't find the PCV valve (as in the case of my
current '02 Elantra), I change both of those every year also. They are
inexpensive, fairly easy, and good piece of mind.

*Assuming this "piston clean" is no more than a bottle of "complete fuel
system" cleaner, how good and useful is any of that stuff? The only time I
have ever used stuff like that is when my cars are either sluggish or jerky
coming off the line. Then that stuff fixes them just fine.

*If you have an automatic tranny (in my case, an '02 Elantra and an '04 Kia
Sedona), where the automatic transmission has not had a bad trouble index,
would you still recommend a 15,000 mile change interval? Right now, I do a
drain and fill on both every 30,000 miles (which in my driving, is little
more than a year in each vehicle).

*BTW, while dealer service departments are only beginning to get into the
"tire" business, should you perhaps add some tire services to the list? I
have a lifetime "balance and rotation" on every set I buy, since proper
balance means a lot to the handling. Does your department do that stuff
yet?

Again, thanx for your excellent posts!

Tom Wenndt

"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:9c94eb626d4711a62676ed7e2cd78222@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Here's my thoughts, which may not agree with anyone else's.
>
> 1. Oil and filter. I presume you're doing this at a time when an oil
> change is needed.
>
> 2. Fuel filter. I believe the recommended interval is 52,500 miles. My
> personal opinion is that 30k is a bit early for this and that the fuel
> filter will likely last for much more than 60k.
>
> 3. PCV valve. I don't recall whether this is on the maintenance list in
> the owner's manual. Very rarely have I ever seen one go bad, but it's
> cheap enough to be worth doing anyway. If it plugs up and you get
> excessive crankcase pressure, you could develop oil leaks.
>
> 4. Trans flush. Even though the recommended interval is 105k, I think
> this service or a fluid drain and fill around 30k is a good idea. Well,
> actually, I think the flush is a little excessive, but the drain and fill
> is a good idea. For the most part, I don't recommend this service for the
> customers where I work unless the fluid is really nasty or the vehicle is
> actually in the neighborhood of 105k. To put this all in perspective, I'm
> changing the fluid in my 1992 Taurus at 15k intervals. Tauruses are
> notorious for transmission problems, and I'm attempting to see if I can
> get the one I put in about 32k ago to last more than the seemingly normal
> 70k.
>
> 4. Coolant flush. You should do a flush or drain and fill every two
> years, regardless of mileage. I do a drain and fill in my car every year,
> but most people consider this overkill.
>
> 5. Piston cleaning. I'm not sure exactly what's being done here, but I
> suspect it's some sort of induction (intake) system cleaning. Unless
> there's some problem you're having that this will potentially solve, I'd
> consider this pure fluff.
>
> 6. Multipoint and brake inspection. Most shops will do this for free
> anyway. It's good to have done, but you really shouldn't consider this to
> be substantially adding to the value of the service.
>
> You should also consider replacing the timing belt. I know this is a
> pricey item on this vehicle, but the maintenance interval is 4 years or
> 60k miles, whichever comes first. Presuming you're outside that period
> since you have a 2001 XG, you should consider replacing it. Should the
> belt break or strip, you'd be responsible for any damage that would cause
> (except in California where it would appear that Hyundai cannot make you
> change the timing belt to continue warranty coverage), and that would be
> far more expensive than replacing the belt. Chances are, it'll last
> another year, but if it doesn't, you'll probably see a repair bill the
> size of which you've never seen before.
>
> And I'll add that when the car is there, they may find things they want to
> do to your car at additional expense. The service advisor should be able
> to clearly explain to you why the service is recommended and the potential
> consequences of not doing the service. If it sounds unclear or dubious,
> tell them you'd like to think it over and then contact someone
> knowledgeable who you know and trust. Too often, customers want to
> understand about their cars and where their service money is going, but no
> one gives them substantial information.
>

Rev. Tom Wenndt

As usual, excellent post, Mr. Hyundaitech. A couple of comments and
questions.

*First, add me as one who does not consider a "drain and fill" for the
radiator every year excessive. For me, it is part of winterizing that I do
every Fall. When I see the condition of the coolant in every car I have
changed it in, I would be very hesitant to wait two years to do that. That
is, of course, for the cars that use the standard "green" coolant. I also
have a car with the red "dex-cool" and I don't know what to do there.

*Since I have had failures in cars in years past due both to bad PCV valves,
and clogged fuel filters, I have had very strict parameters on those also.
Unless it is one of those "in-fuel-pump" filters located inside the fuel
tank, or unless I just plain can't find the PCV valve (as in the case of my
current '02 Elantra), I change both of those every year also. They are
inexpensive, fairly easy, and good piece of mind.

*Assuming this "piston clean" is no more than a bottle of "complete fuel
system" cleaner, how good and useful is any of that stuff? The only time I
have ever used stuff like that is when my cars are either sluggish or jerky
coming off the line. Then that stuff fixes them just fine.

*If you have an automatic tranny (in my case, an '02 Elantra and an '04 Kia
Sedona), where the automatic transmission has not had a bad trouble index,
would you still recommend a 15,000 mile change interval? Right now, I do a
drain and fill on both every 30,000 miles (which in my driving, is little
more than a year in each vehicle).

*BTW, while dealer service departments are only beginning to get into the
"tire" business, should you perhaps add some tire services to the list? I
have a lifetime "balance and rotation" on every set I buy, since proper
balance means a lot to the handling. Does your department do that stuff
yet?

Again, thanx for your excellent posts!

Tom Wenndt

"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:9c94eb626d4711a62676ed7e2cd78222@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Here's my thoughts, which may not agree with anyone else's.
>
> 1. Oil and filter. I presume you're doing this at a time when an oil
> change is needed.
>
> 2. Fuel filter. I believe the recommended interval is 52,500 miles. My
> personal opinion is that 30k is a bit early for this and that the fuel
> filter will likely last for much more than 60k.
>
> 3. PCV valve. I don't recall whether this is on the maintenance list in
> the owner's manual. Very rarely have I ever seen one go bad, but it's
> cheap enough to be worth doing anyway. If it plugs up and you get
> excessive crankcase pressure, you could develop oil leaks.
>
> 4. Trans flush. Even though the recommended interval is 105k, I think
> this service or a fluid drain and fill around 30k is a good idea. Well,
> actually, I think the flush is a little excessive, but the drain and fill
> is a good idea. For the most part, I don't recommend this service for the
> customers where I work unless the fluid is really nasty or the vehicle is
> actually in the neighborhood of 105k. To put this all in perspective, I'm
> changing the fluid in my 1992 Taurus at 15k intervals. Tauruses are
> notorious for transmission problems, and I'm attempting to see if I can
> get the one I put in about 32k ago to last more than the seemingly normal
> 70k.
>
> 4. Coolant flush. You should do a flush or drain and fill every two
> years, regardless of mileage. I do a drain and fill in my car every year,
> but most people consider this overkill.
>
> 5. Piston cleaning. I'm not sure exactly what's being done here, but I
> suspect it's some sort of induction (intake) system cleaning. Unless
> there's some problem you're having that this will potentially solve, I'd
> consider this pure fluff.
>
> 6. Multipoint and brake inspection. Most shops will do this for free
> anyway. It's good to have done, but you really shouldn't consider this to
> be substantially adding to the value of the service.
>
> You should also consider replacing the timing belt. I know this is a
> pricey item on this vehicle, but the maintenance interval is 4 years or
> 60k miles, whichever comes first. Presuming you're outside that period
> since you have a 2001 XG, you should consider replacing it. Should the
> belt break or strip, you'd be responsible for any damage that would cause
> (except in California where it would appear that Hyundai cannot make you
> change the timing belt to continue warranty coverage), and that would be
> far more expensive than replacing the belt. Chances are, it'll last
> another year, but if it doesn't, you'll probably see a repair bill the
> size of which you've never seen before.
>
> And I'll add that when the car is there, they may find things they want to
> do to your car at additional expense. The service advisor should be able
> to clearly explain to you why the service is recommended and the potential
> consequences of not doing the service. If it sounds unclear or dubious,
> tell them you'd like to think it over and then contact someone
> knowledgeable who you know and trust. Too often, customers want to
> understand about their cars and where their service money is going, but no
> one gives them substantial information.
>

Rev. Tom Wenndt

As usual, excellent post, Mr. Hyundaitech. A couple of comments and
questions.

*First, add me as one who does not consider a "drain and fill" for the
radiator every year excessive. For me, it is part of winterizing that I do
every Fall. When I see the condition of the coolant in every car I have
changed it in, I would be very hesitant to wait two years to do that. That
is, of course, for the cars that use the standard "green" coolant. I also
have a car with the red "dex-cool" and I don't know what to do there.

*Since I have had failures in cars in years past due both to bad PCV valves,
and clogged fuel filters, I have had very strict parameters on those also.
Unless it is one of those "in-fuel-pump" filters located inside the fuel
tank, or unless I just plain can't find the PCV valve (as in the case of my
current '02 Elantra), I change both of those every year also. They are
inexpensive, fairly easy, and good piece of mind.

*Assuming this "piston clean" is no more than a bottle of "complete fuel
system" cleaner, how good and useful is any of that stuff? The only time I
have ever used stuff like that is when my cars are either sluggish or jerky
coming off the line. Then that stuff fixes them just fine.

*If you have an automatic tranny (in my case, an '02 Elantra and an '04 Kia
Sedona), where the automatic transmission has not had a bad trouble index,
would you still recommend a 15,000 mile change interval? Right now, I do a
drain and fill on both every 30,000 miles (which in my driving, is little
more than a year in each vehicle).

*BTW, while dealer service departments are only beginning to get into the
"tire" business, should you perhaps add some tire services to the list? I
have a lifetime "balance and rotation" on every set I buy, since proper
balance means a lot to the handling. Does your department do that stuff
yet?

Again, thanx for your excellent posts!

Tom Wenndt

"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:9c94eb626d4711a62676ed7e2cd78222@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Here's my thoughts, which may not agree with anyone else's.
>
> 1. Oil and filter. I presume you're doing this at a time when an oil
> change is needed.
>
> 2. Fuel filter. I believe the recommended interval is 52,500 miles. My
> personal opinion is that 30k is a bit early for this and that the fuel
> filter will likely last for much more than 60k.
>
> 3. PCV valve. I don't recall whether this is on the maintenance list in
> the owner's manual. Very rarely have I ever seen one go bad, but it's
> cheap enough to be worth doing anyway. If it plugs up and you get
> excessive crankcase pressure, you could develop oil leaks.
>
> 4. Trans flush. Even though the recommended interval is 105k, I think
> this service or a fluid drain and fill around 30k is a good idea. Well,
> actually, I think the flush is a little excessive, but the drain and fill
> is a good idea. For the most part, I don't recommend this service for the
> customers where I work unless the fluid is really nasty or the vehicle is
> actually in the neighborhood of 105k. To put this all in perspective, I'm
> changing the fluid in my 1992 Taurus at 15k intervals. Tauruses are
> notorious for transmission problems, and I'm attempting to see if I can
> get the one I put in about 32k ago to last more than the seemingly normal
> 70k.
>
> 4. Coolant flush. You should do a flush or drain and fill every two
> years, regardless of mileage. I do a drain and fill in my car every year,
> but most people consider this overkill.
>
> 5. Piston cleaning. I'm not sure exactly what's being done here, but I
> suspect it's some sort of induction (intake) system cleaning. Unless
> there's some problem you're having that this will potentially solve, I'd
> consider this pure fluff.
>
> 6. Multipoint and brake inspection. Most shops will do this for free
> anyway. It's good to have done, but you really shouldn't consider this to
> be substantially adding to the value of the service.
>
> You should also consider replacing the timing belt. I know this is a
> pricey item on this vehicle, but the maintenance interval is 4 years or
> 60k miles, whichever comes first. Presuming you're outside that period
> since you have a 2001 XG, you should consider replacing it. Should the
> belt break or strip, you'd be responsible for any damage that would cause
> (except in California where it would appear that Hyundai cannot make you
> change the timing belt to continue warranty coverage), and that would be
> far more expensive than replacing the belt. Chances are, it'll last
> another year, but if it doesn't, you'll probably see a repair bill the
> size of which you've never seen before.
>
> And I'll add that when the car is there, they may find things they want to
> do to your car at additional expense. The service advisor should be able
> to clearly explain to you why the service is recommended and the potential
> consequences of not doing the service. If it sounds unclear or dubious,
> tell them you'd like to think it over and then contact someone
> knowledgeable who you know and trust. Too often, customers want to
> understand about their cars and where their service money is going, but no
> one gives them substantial information.
>

hyundaitech

Tom says:
"I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
there."
_________________________________________________

I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.

Tom says:
"Assuming this 'piston clean' is no more than a bottle of 'complete fuel
system' cleaner, how good and useful is any of that stuff?"
_________________________________________________

Unless it's got something weird in it, it pretty much can't hurt. But if
you've got an engine that doesn't carbon, what's the point. Most modern
engines carbon very little.

Tom says:
"If you have an automatic tranny (in my case, an '02 Elantra and an '04
Kia Sedona), where the automatic transmission has not had a bad trouble
index, would you still recommend a 15,000 mile change interval?"
_________________________________________________

No. I think the 30k interval is good. I'm not sure about the Kia, but at
least for the Elantra that exceeds the manufacturer's recommendation. I'd
do 30k on most cars even if they had a 100k manufacturer recommendation.

Tom says:
"BTW, while dealer service departments are only beginning to get into the
'tire' business, should you perhaps add some tire services to the list?"
_________________________________________________

I'd say it's a good idea to rotate the tires every 7500 miles or so. For
about 13 years, I drove only rear drive cars and didn't believe in
rotation. I bought new tires two at a time and put the new ones on the
rear for good bad weather traction. As the fronts wore out, I'd move the
rear to the front and put two new tires on the rear. But with my first
front drive car, I learned this was a bad plan. I had to buy four tires.
The fronts wore out quickly (because they were on the drive axle), and the
rears lasted only a little longer because they were feathered down to
where there was no tread in spots. Since then, I've bought four at a time
and kept them regularly rotated with much better results.

As for other tire services such as balancing or replacement, I'd recommend
them only when needed due to vibration or wear.

We do tire work here, but anything involving tire replacement is very
awkward because departmental management doesn't really want the hassle of
pricing and procuring tires. Our 15k and 30k maintenance services include
a wheel balance, but I think it's overkill to do it that frequently.

And, Tom, thanks for your posts, too. They're intelligent and clear, and
most importantly, I almost always agree with them.

hyundaitech

Tom says:
"I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
there."
_________________________________________________

I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.

Tom says:
"Assuming this 'piston clean' is no more than a bottle of 'complete fuel
system' cleaner, how good and useful is any of that stuff?"
_________________________________________________

Unless it's got something weird in it, it pretty much can't hurt. But if
you've got an engine that doesn't carbon, what's the point. Most modern
engines carbon very little.

Tom says:
"If you have an automatic tranny (in my case, an '02 Elantra and an '04
Kia Sedona), where the automatic transmission has not had a bad trouble
index, would you still recommend a 15,000 mile change interval?"
_________________________________________________

No. I think the 30k interval is good. I'm not sure about the Kia, but at
least for the Elantra that exceeds the manufacturer's recommendation. I'd
do 30k on most cars even if they had a 100k manufacturer recommendation.

Tom says:
"BTW, while dealer service departments are only beginning to get into the
'tire' business, should you perhaps add some tire services to the list?"
_________________________________________________

I'd say it's a good idea to rotate the tires every 7500 miles or so. For
about 13 years, I drove only rear drive cars and didn't believe in
rotation. I bought new tires two at a time and put the new ones on the
rear for good bad weather traction. As the fronts wore out, I'd move the
rear to the front and put two new tires on the rear. But with my first
front drive car, I learned this was a bad plan. I had to buy four tires.
The fronts wore out quickly (because they were on the drive axle), and the
rears lasted only a little longer because they were feathered down to
where there was no tread in spots. Since then, I've bought four at a time
and kept them regularly rotated with much better results.

As for other tire services such as balancing or replacement, I'd recommend
them only when needed due to vibration or wear.

We do tire work here, but anything involving tire replacement is very
awkward because departmental management doesn't really want the hassle of
pricing and procuring tires. Our 15k and 30k maintenance services include
a wheel balance, but I think it's overkill to do it that frequently.

And, Tom, thanks for your posts, too. They're intelligent and clear, and
most importantly, I almost always agree with them.

hyundaitech

Tom says:
"I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
there."
_________________________________________________

I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.

Tom says:
"Assuming this 'piston clean' is no more than a bottle of 'complete fuel
system' cleaner, how good and useful is any of that stuff?"
_________________________________________________

Unless it's got something weird in it, it pretty much can't hurt. But if
you've got an engine that doesn't carbon, what's the point. Most modern
engines carbon very little.

Tom says:
"If you have an automatic tranny (in my case, an '02 Elantra and an '04
Kia Sedona), where the automatic transmission has not had a bad trouble
index, would you still recommend a 15,000 mile change interval?"
_________________________________________________

No. I think the 30k interval is good. I'm not sure about the Kia, but at
least for the Elantra that exceeds the manufacturer's recommendation. I'd
do 30k on most cars even if they had a 100k manufacturer recommendation.

Tom says:
"BTW, while dealer service departments are only beginning to get into the
'tire' business, should you perhaps add some tire services to the list?"
_________________________________________________

I'd say it's a good idea to rotate the tires every 7500 miles or so. For
about 13 years, I drove only rear drive cars and didn't believe in
rotation. I bought new tires two at a time and put the new ones on the
rear for good bad weather traction. As the fronts wore out, I'd move the
rear to the front and put two new tires on the rear. But with my first
front drive car, I learned this was a bad plan. I had to buy four tires.
The fronts wore out quickly (because they were on the drive axle), and the
rears lasted only a little longer because they were feathered down to
where there was no tread in spots. Since then, I've bought four at a time
and kept them regularly rotated with much better results.

As for other tire services such as balancing or replacement, I'd recommend
them only when needed due to vibration or wear.

We do tire work here, but anything involving tire replacement is very
awkward because departmental management doesn't really want the hassle of
pricing and procuring tires. Our 15k and 30k maintenance services include
a wheel balance, but I think it's overkill to do it that frequently.

And, Tom, thanks for your posts, too. They're intelligent and clear, and
most importantly, I almost always agree with them.

Mike Marlow

"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:9d865eb90fc91c4fcb2695d607e8e5c1@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Tom says:
> "I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
> there."
> _________________________________________________
>
> I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
> flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
> year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
> issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
> got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
> again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
> with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.
>

The ugly stuff is very true about DexCool. Many people (myself included)
replace it with the green stuff the first time it needs attention.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Mike Marlow

"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:9d865eb90fc91c4fcb2695d607e8e5c1@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Tom says:
> "I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
> there."
> _________________________________________________
>
> I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
> flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
> year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
> issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
> got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
> again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
> with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.
>

The ugly stuff is very true about DexCool. Many people (myself included)
replace it with the green stuff the first time it needs attention.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Mike Marlow

"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:9d865eb90fc91c4fcb2695d607e8e5c1@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Tom says:
> "I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
> there."
> _________________________________________________
>
> I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
> flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
> year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
> issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
> got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
> again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
> with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.
>

The ugly stuff is very true about DexCool. Many people (myself included)
replace it with the green stuff the first time it needs attention.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Matt Whiting

hyundaitech wrote:
>
> I'd say it's a good idea to rotate the tires every 7500 miles or so. For
> about 13 years, I drove only rear drive cars and didn't believe in
> rotation. I bought new tires two at a time and put the new ones on the
> rear for good bad weather traction. As the fronts wore out, I'd move the
> rear to the front and put two new tires on the rear. But with my first
> front drive car, I learned this was a bad plan. I had to buy four tires.
> The fronts wore out quickly (because they were on the drive axle), and the
> rears lasted only a little longer because they were feathered down to
> where there was no tread in spots. Since then, I've bought four at a time
> and kept them regularly rotated with much better results.

I used to rotate bias ply tires at 5K because they wore fairly fast
compared to radials. I use 10K for radials because that is every other
oil change for me and easy to remember. And it seems plenty for
radials. I seldom get less than 50,000 on a set of tires and once got
nearly 90,000 (Michelins on a Jeep Comanche 4x4 of all things).

Very few vehicles, even rear wheel drive like my Jeep and my Chevy
pickup, will wear the tires evenly from side to side. The normal
turning forces on the front tires almost always wear the outside a
little faster than the inside. Rotation with cross-over evens this out.
I believe I get at least an extra 10,000 miles on my tires due to the
rotation schedule.

Matt

Matt Whiting

hyundaitech wrote:
>
> I'd say it's a good idea to rotate the tires every 7500 miles or so. For
> about 13 years, I drove only rear drive cars and didn't believe in
> rotation. I bought new tires two at a time and put the new ones on the
> rear for good bad weather traction. As the fronts wore out, I'd move the
> rear to the front and put two new tires on the rear. But with my first
> front drive car, I learned this was a bad plan. I had to buy four tires.
> The fronts wore out quickly (because they were on the drive axle), and the
> rears lasted only a little longer because they were feathered down to
> where there was no tread in spots. Since then, I've bought four at a time
> and kept them regularly rotated with much better results.

I used to rotate bias ply tires at 5K because they wore fairly fast
compared to radials. I use 10K for radials because that is every other
oil change for me and easy to remember. And it seems plenty for
radials. I seldom get less than 50,000 on a set of tires and once got
nearly 90,000 (Michelins on a Jeep Comanche 4x4 of all things).

Very few vehicles, even rear wheel drive like my Jeep and my Chevy
pickup, will wear the tires evenly from side to side. The normal
turning forces on the front tires almost always wear the outside a
little faster than the inside. Rotation with cross-over evens this out.
I believe I get at least an extra 10,000 miles on my tires due to the
rotation schedule.

Matt