Stalls and won’t restart
08-20-2005, 09:36 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Stalls and won’t restart
Hi guys
I am new here and need some help. I have been to 2 other Sonata forums
and with over 200 people that saw my thread, only one replied and
offered assistance. This will be long so here I go.
I purchased a 95 Sonata 2l automatic 10 days ago. Pick up the car 100
miles away and drive it home. The exhaust flexible is shot so I drive
with a light foot to keep the noise down. The car runs great.
Next day I buy and install a flexible plus catalityc converter, seeing
the previous owner took it off and installed a piece of pipe. I then
proceed to pressure wash the engine bay after taking out the battery.
Now everything is nice. Wait a few days so everything dries up good
before putting back the battery
I then start the car. It is idling very rough. I take off the central
cover on the head and the plugs were drowning in water. So I clean
everything up and restart and let the car idle for awhile. Then I
decide to take a test drive. Shift in reverse and the car stalls. Can
not restart. Next day, I clean the plugs wich were fouled with fuel. I
start the car but I have to keep my foot on the gas because it will
stall and have to keep the rpm’s high because it is bucking and
cutting out and just want’s to stall, wich it did. Attempted to
restart but, no go.The spark plugs were again flooded with fuel.
So I proceded to check the DLC for codes with my voltmeter leads
plugged into the MFI and ground. All I get is a steady voltage pulse
at approx. 1hz intervall. No codes. I checked the harness going to the
ECM relay and I can hear it energize when I turn on the ignition. I
checked for spark and fuel, OK. Compression test=160psi per cyl. Leak
down test=10% leak
I did resistance test on the coils and power transistors. OK Checked
the tps. OK
Resistance test of the harness connectors to the VAFS, CKP sensor and
whatever else I could think of. Could not check O2 voltage as I can’t
keep the car running without my foot on the gas. Checked for gas in
the fuel regulator vacum line but did not do a fuel pressure test. I
am at a loss because this car ran good for the 100 mile ride home. I
am wondering if I shorted something when I pressure washed it or if
there is something restricting the exhaust.
So to sum it up:
Car will start once in morning but won’t idle and dies when warm if
the gas peddal is touched. Will not restart unless it is cold and the
plugs have been cleaned.
Suggestions I have had are to replace O2 sensor ($246.00 cdn) the CKP
sensor and the MAF sensor which btw I could not find. These are
expensive without knowing if the problem will be fixed and you can not
return these components even if the ones you have are good.
So does anyone out there have an idea. The car has been in my driveway
for 10 days so I am willing to try anything. Oh I was wondering if the
pulsing from the ecm when I tried retrieving the codes is normal. Also
my MIL or CEL is not working. Might be a burnt bulb. Few!!!! Told
you it was long. Thank’s
Don
--
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I am new here and need some help. I have been to 2 other Sonata forums
and with over 200 people that saw my thread, only one replied and
offered assistance. This will be long so here I go.
I purchased a 95 Sonata 2l automatic 10 days ago. Pick up the car 100
miles away and drive it home. The exhaust flexible is shot so I drive
with a light foot to keep the noise down. The car runs great.
Next day I buy and install a flexible plus catalityc converter, seeing
the previous owner took it off and installed a piece of pipe. I then
proceed to pressure wash the engine bay after taking out the battery.
Now everything is nice. Wait a few days so everything dries up good
before putting back the battery
I then start the car. It is idling very rough. I take off the central
cover on the head and the plugs were drowning in water. So I clean
everything up and restart and let the car idle for awhile. Then I
decide to take a test drive. Shift in reverse and the car stalls. Can
not restart. Next day, I clean the plugs wich were fouled with fuel. I
start the car but I have to keep my foot on the gas because it will
stall and have to keep the rpm’s high because it is bucking and
cutting out and just want’s to stall, wich it did. Attempted to
restart but, no go.The spark plugs were again flooded with fuel.
So I proceded to check the DLC for codes with my voltmeter leads
plugged into the MFI and ground. All I get is a steady voltage pulse
at approx. 1hz intervall. No codes. I checked the harness going to the
ECM relay and I can hear it energize when I turn on the ignition. I
checked for spark and fuel, OK. Compression test=160psi per cyl. Leak
down test=10% leak
I did resistance test on the coils and power transistors. OK Checked
the tps. OK
Resistance test of the harness connectors to the VAFS, CKP sensor and
whatever else I could think of. Could not check O2 voltage as I can’t
keep the car running without my foot on the gas. Checked for gas in
the fuel regulator vacum line but did not do a fuel pressure test. I
am at a loss because this car ran good for the 100 mile ride home. I
am wondering if I shorted something when I pressure washed it or if
there is something restricting the exhaust.
So to sum it up:
Car will start once in morning but won’t idle and dies when warm if
the gas peddal is touched. Will not restart unless it is cold and the
plugs have been cleaned.
Suggestions I have had are to replace O2 sensor ($246.00 cdn) the CKP
sensor and the MAF sensor which btw I could not find. These are
expensive without knowing if the problem will be fixed and you can not
return these components even if the ones you have are good.
So does anyone out there have an idea. The car has been in my driveway
for 10 days so I am willing to try anything. Oh I was wondering if the
pulsing from the ecm when I tried retrieving the codes is normal. Also
my MIL or CEL is not working. Might be a burnt bulb. Few!!!! Told
you it was long. Thank’s
Don
--
Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Hyundai-St...ict134589.html
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08-21-2005, 08:02 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stalls and won’t restart
On 20 Aug 2005 21:36:31 -0400, Donr <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com>
wrote:
>So to sum it up:
>Car will start once in morning but won’t idle and dies when warm if
>the gas peddal is touched. Will not restart unless it is cold and the
>plugs have been cleaned.
I wonder if the problem is caused by the coolant temperature sensor.
Rob
wrote:
>So to sum it up:
>Car will start once in morning but won’t idle and dies when warm if
>the gas peddal is touched. Will not restart unless it is cold and the
>plugs have been cleaned.
I wonder if the problem is caused by the coolant temperature sensor.
Rob
08-21-2005, 04:36 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Stalls and won’t restart
"Rob Muller" wrote:
>On 20 Aug 2005 21:36:31 -0400,
>I wonder if the problem is caused by the coolant temperature sensor.
>Rob
I did not check this sensor. Would temporarely unplugging it confirm
this?
Also I just looked in past post and 1 thread refers to a site with
trouble codes. Normal condition is code 2 which should be 2 pulses
followed by a 2 second pause. All I get is a steady 1hz pulse
Don
--
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>On 20 Aug 2005 21:36:31 -0400,
>I wonder if the problem is caused by the coolant temperature sensor.
>Rob
I did not check this sensor. Would temporarely unplugging it confirm
this?
Also I just looked in past post and 1 thread refers to a site with
trouble codes. Normal condition is code 2 which should be 2 pulses
followed by a 2 second pause. All I get is a steady 1hz pulse
Don
--
Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Hyundai-St...ict134589.html
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08-21-2005, 06:44 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stalls and won’t restart
On 21 Aug 2005 16:36:39 -0400, Donr <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com>
wrote:
>I did not check this sensor. Would temporarely unplugging it confirm
>this?
I suspect the problem is caused by washing the engine bay. Maybe the
connector came a bit loose?
>Also I just looked in past post and 1 thread refers to a site with
>trouble codes. Normal condition is code 2 which should be 2 pulses
>followed by a 2 second pause. All I get is a steady 1hz pulse
You can find a wealth of information at http://www.hmaservice.com
If I understand it correct, the 1Hz pulse means there are no error
codes. Maybe the ignition system is just still wet?
Try drying every part of the ignition system. To speed up the drying
you can idle the engine a few minutes until the fan comes on and let
it cool down again.
Rob
wrote:
>I did not check this sensor. Would temporarely unplugging it confirm
>this?
I suspect the problem is caused by washing the engine bay. Maybe the
connector came a bit loose?
>Also I just looked in past post and 1 thread refers to a site with
>trouble codes. Normal condition is code 2 which should be 2 pulses
>followed by a 2 second pause. All I get is a steady 1hz pulse
You can find a wealth of information at http://www.hmaservice.com
If I understand it correct, the 1Hz pulse means there are no error
codes. Maybe the ignition system is just still wet?
Try drying every part of the ignition system. To speed up the drying
you can idle the engine a few minutes until the fan comes on and let
it cool down again.
Rob
08-22-2005, 06:57 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stalls and won’t restart
Is it running really rich when it starts?
May be injectors sticking open and coincidently occurred when you cleaned.
I have an lpg fueled excel and have similar problems when I use petrol to
start sometimes.
Donr wrote in message
<1_653897_a3fb6b07820884a34c7bb79318caf97b@autofor umz.com>...
>Hi guys
>I am new here and need some help. I have been to 2 other Sonata forums
>and with over 200 people that saw my thread, only one replied and
>offered assistance. This will be long so here I go.
>I purchased a 95 Sonata 2l automatic 10 days ago. Pick up the car 100
>miles away and drive it home. The exhaust flexible is shot so I drive
>with a light foot to keep the noise down. The car runs great.
>
>Next day I buy and install a flexible plus catalityc converter, seeing
>the previous owner took it off and installed a piece of pipe. I then
>proceed to pressure wash the engine bay after taking out the battery.
>Now everything is nice. Wait a few days so everything dries up good
>before putting back the battery
> I then start the car. It is idling very rough. I take off the central
>cover on the head and the plugs were drowning in water. So I clean
>everything up and restart and let the car idle for awhile. Then I
>decide to take a test drive. Shift in reverse and the car stalls. Can
>not restart. Next day, I clean the plugs wich were fouled with fuel. I
>start the car but I have to keep my foot on the gas because it will
>stall and have to keep the rpm’s high because it is bucking and
>cutting out and just want’s to stall, wich it did. Attempted to
>restart but, no go.The spark plugs were again flooded with fuel.
>So I proceded to check the DLC for codes with my voltmeter leads
>plugged into the MFI and ground. All I get is a steady voltage pulse
>at approx. 1hz intervall. No codes. I checked the harness going to the
>ECM relay and I can hear it energize when I turn on the ignition. I
>checked for spark and fuel, OK. Compression test=160psi per cyl. Leak
>down test=10% leak
>I did resistance test on the coils and power transistors. OK Checked
>the tps. OK
> Resistance test of the harness connectors to the VAFS, CKP sensor and
> whatever else I could think of. Could not check O2 voltage as I can’t
>keep the car running without my foot on the gas. Checked for gas in
>the fuel regulator vacum line but did not do a fuel pressure test. I
>am at a loss because this car ran good for the 100 mile ride home. I
>am wondering if I shorted something when I pressure washed it or if
>there is something restricting the exhaust.
>So to sum it up:
>Car will start once in morning but won’t idle and dies when warm if
>the gas peddal is touched. Will not restart unless it is cold and the
>plugs have been cleaned.
>Suggestions I have had are to replace O2 sensor ($246.00 cdn) the CKP
>sensor and the MAF sensor which btw I could not find. These are
>expensive without knowing if the problem will be fixed and you can not
>return these components even if the ones you have are good.
>So does anyone out there have an idea. The car has been in my driveway
>for 10 days so I am willing to try anything. Oh I was wondering if the
>pulsing from the ecm when I tried retrieving the codes is normal. Also
>my MIL or CEL is not working. Might be a burnt bulb. Few!!!! Told
>you it was long. Thank’s
>Don
>
>--
>Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
>Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
>Topic URL:
http://www.autoforumz.com/Hyundai-St...ict134589.html
>Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=653897
May be injectors sticking open and coincidently occurred when you cleaned.
I have an lpg fueled excel and have similar problems when I use petrol to
start sometimes.
Donr wrote in message
<1_653897_a3fb6b07820884a34c7bb79318caf97b@autofor umz.com>...
>Hi guys
>I am new here and need some help. I have been to 2 other Sonata forums
>and with over 200 people that saw my thread, only one replied and
>offered assistance. This will be long so here I go.
>I purchased a 95 Sonata 2l automatic 10 days ago. Pick up the car 100
>miles away and drive it home. The exhaust flexible is shot so I drive
>with a light foot to keep the noise down. The car runs great.
>
>Next day I buy and install a flexible plus catalityc converter, seeing
>the previous owner took it off and installed a piece of pipe. I then
>proceed to pressure wash the engine bay after taking out the battery.
>Now everything is nice. Wait a few days so everything dries up good
>before putting back the battery
> I then start the car. It is idling very rough. I take off the central
>cover on the head and the plugs were drowning in water. So I clean
>everything up and restart and let the car idle for awhile. Then I
>decide to take a test drive. Shift in reverse and the car stalls. Can
>not restart. Next day, I clean the plugs wich were fouled with fuel. I
>start the car but I have to keep my foot on the gas because it will
>stall and have to keep the rpm’s high because it is bucking and
>cutting out and just want’s to stall, wich it did. Attempted to
>restart but, no go.The spark plugs were again flooded with fuel.
>So I proceded to check the DLC for codes with my voltmeter leads
>plugged into the MFI and ground. All I get is a steady voltage pulse
>at approx. 1hz intervall. No codes. I checked the harness going to the
>ECM relay and I can hear it energize when I turn on the ignition. I
>checked for spark and fuel, OK. Compression test=160psi per cyl. Leak
>down test=10% leak
>I did resistance test on the coils and power transistors. OK Checked
>the tps. OK
> Resistance test of the harness connectors to the VAFS, CKP sensor and
> whatever else I could think of. Could not check O2 voltage as I can’t
>keep the car running without my foot on the gas. Checked for gas in
>the fuel regulator vacum line but did not do a fuel pressure test. I
>am at a loss because this car ran good for the 100 mile ride home. I
>am wondering if I shorted something when I pressure washed it or if
>there is something restricting the exhaust.
>So to sum it up:
>Car will start once in morning but won’t idle and dies when warm if
>the gas peddal is touched. Will not restart unless it is cold and the
>plugs have been cleaned.
>Suggestions I have had are to replace O2 sensor ($246.00 cdn) the CKP
>sensor and the MAF sensor which btw I could not find. These are
>expensive without knowing if the problem will be fixed and you can not
>return these components even if the ones you have are good.
>So does anyone out there have an idea. The car has been in my driveway
>for 10 days so I am willing to try anything. Oh I was wondering if the
>pulsing from the ecm when I tried retrieving the codes is normal. Also
>my MIL or CEL is not working. Might be a burnt bulb. Few!!!! Told
>you it was long. Thank’s
>Don
>
>--
>Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
>Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
>Topic URL:
http://www.autoforumz.com/Hyundai-St...ict134589.html
>Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=653897
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