Khaj

I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking following
things to be done; -
1) Change transmission oil =$170
2) Change A/c belt = $117
3) Change power steering fluid = $135
I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
Thanks in advance

Matt Whiting

Khaj wrote:

> I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking following
> things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance


What does your owner's manual say? The prices sound horrendously high.
I can get my transmission fluid and filter changed for about $70 at my
local Chrysler dealer for my minivan. I can't believe an Elantra is
that much more work than a minivan.

Most vehicles don't require the PS fluid to ever be changed. My last
minivan had 178,000 miles on it on the original PS fluid with no
problems. I don't know how much longer it would have lasted as it was
totaled at that mileage by a drunk.

I'm not familiar with the belt system on an Elantra, but unless they
have to jack up the engine to replace the belt, the quoted price sounds
horrendous.


Matt

Matt Whiting

Khaj wrote:

> I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking following
> things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance


What does your owner's manual say? The prices sound horrendously high.
I can get my transmission fluid and filter changed for about $70 at my
local Chrysler dealer for my minivan. I can't believe an Elantra is
that much more work than a minivan.

Most vehicles don't require the PS fluid to ever be changed. My last
minivan had 178,000 miles on it on the original PS fluid with no
problems. I don't know how much longer it would have lasted as it was
totaled at that mileage by a drunk.

I'm not familiar with the belt system on an Elantra, but unless they
have to jack up the engine to replace the belt, the quoted price sounds
horrendous.


Matt

Matt Whiting

Khaj wrote:

> I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking following
> things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance


What does your owner's manual say? The prices sound horrendously high.
I can get my transmission fluid and filter changed for about $70 at my
local Chrysler dealer for my minivan. I can't believe an Elantra is
that much more work than a minivan.

Most vehicles don't require the PS fluid to ever be changed. My last
minivan had 178,000 miles on it on the original PS fluid with no
problems. I don't know how much longer it would have lasted as it was
totaled at that mileage by a drunk.

I'm not familiar with the belt system on an Elantra, but unless they
have to jack up the engine to replace the belt, the quoted price sounds
horrendous.


Matt

Screwtape III

Khaj wrote:

> I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking
> following things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance

I was told by my local Florida dealer the transmission fluid had to be
changed every 30K miles in a '00 Accent in order for the transmission
to be covered by the factory warranty. The price your being quoted is
for a flush. A drain and fill is perfectly acceptable and should cost
half that. If you take it somewhere other than the dealer make sure
they only use SPIII fluid. Universal transmission fluid like your
local auto parts store sells will screw it up. If you change your own
motor oil, your perfectly capable of changing the transmission fluid.
Expect to pay $6 for a quart of SPIII fluid at your local dealer.

The A/C belt should not need to be changed before the 60K mile timing
belt change. The only exception would be if it's been loose and has
suffered premature wear as a result.

The power steering fluid would only need to be changed if the car's
been submerged in a pond.

If you have 40K miles on the original front brake pads, they need to be
changed. The only way to check them is to jack up the car, pull the
wheel and visually inspect them.

Your transmission does not have a belt.

--

Screwtape III

Khaj wrote:

> I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking
> following things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance

I was told by my local Florida dealer the transmission fluid had to be
changed every 30K miles in a '00 Accent in order for the transmission
to be covered by the factory warranty. The price your being quoted is
for a flush. A drain and fill is perfectly acceptable and should cost
half that. If you take it somewhere other than the dealer make sure
they only use SPIII fluid. Universal transmission fluid like your
local auto parts store sells will screw it up. If you change your own
motor oil, your perfectly capable of changing the transmission fluid.
Expect to pay $6 for a quart of SPIII fluid at your local dealer.

The A/C belt should not need to be changed before the 60K mile timing
belt change. The only exception would be if it's been loose and has
suffered premature wear as a result.

The power steering fluid would only need to be changed if the car's
been submerged in a pond.

If you have 40K miles on the original front brake pads, they need to be
changed. The only way to check them is to jack up the car, pull the
wheel and visually inspect them.

Your transmission does not have a belt.

--

Screwtape III

Khaj wrote:

> I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking
> following things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance

I was told by my local Florida dealer the transmission fluid had to be
changed every 30K miles in a '00 Accent in order for the transmission
to be covered by the factory warranty. The price your being quoted is
for a flush. A drain and fill is perfectly acceptable and should cost
half that. If you take it somewhere other than the dealer make sure
they only use SPIII fluid. Universal transmission fluid like your
local auto parts store sells will screw it up. If you change your own
motor oil, your perfectly capable of changing the transmission fluid.
Expect to pay $6 for a quart of SPIII fluid at your local dealer.

The A/C belt should not need to be changed before the 60K mile timing
belt change. The only exception would be if it's been loose and has
suffered premature wear as a result.

The power steering fluid would only need to be changed if the car's
been submerged in a pond.

If you have 40K miles on the original front brake pads, they need to be
changed. The only way to check them is to jack up the car, pull the
wheel and visually inspect them.

Your transmission does not have a belt.

--

Rev. Tom Wenndt

Puh-leeze! These service shops never cease to amaze me.

-Shop around for the tranny fluid work as surely it can be done cheaper(but
as someone else pointed out, make sure the right fluid is used). In my
world this is the only service you even might need;

-A/C belt? Not likely, but a flashlight will show if there are any
tell-tale cracks. I agree with another poster that the best time to have
that replaced is when you get the timing belt replaced, usually around
60,000 miles, and you have to take this off anyway;

-Power Steering fluid??????? I have noticed the tendency for dealers to
start trying to change things that are just plain never changed in a car.
The first was brake fluid. I am closer to being convinced that, in cars
with ABS, it may not be a bad idea to change it every 2-3 years, but
otherwise have never seen a car that needed it (unless like another poster
said, the car was submerged in water).

But I have never, ever, ever heard of a need to change power steering fluid
in any care. In fact,that would be my tip that this garage is probably a
racket.

The only other legitimate one I can think of is coolant. Has that been at
least drained and refilled, if not flushed?

My advice to you is to get your necessary parts from the Hyundai dealer as
you need them(timing belts, etc.), and find someone honest to work on your
car. Otherwise your next "recommended" repair may be for a broken
disgronficator, an expensive part indeed.

Tom Wenndt


"Khaj" <khajouria@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146341238.277656.37650@g10g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking following
> things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance
>

Rev. Tom Wenndt

Puh-leeze! These service shops never cease to amaze me.

-Shop around for the tranny fluid work as surely it can be done cheaper(but
as someone else pointed out, make sure the right fluid is used). In my
world this is the only service you even might need;

-A/C belt? Not likely, but a flashlight will show if there are any
tell-tale cracks. I agree with another poster that the best time to have
that replaced is when you get the timing belt replaced, usually around
60,000 miles, and you have to take this off anyway;

-Power Steering fluid??????? I have noticed the tendency for dealers to
start trying to change things that are just plain never changed in a car.
The first was brake fluid. I am closer to being convinced that, in cars
with ABS, it may not be a bad idea to change it every 2-3 years, but
otherwise have never seen a car that needed it (unless like another poster
said, the car was submerged in water).

But I have never, ever, ever heard of a need to change power steering fluid
in any care. In fact,that would be my tip that this garage is probably a
racket.

The only other legitimate one I can think of is coolant. Has that been at
least drained and refilled, if not flushed?

My advice to you is to get your necessary parts from the Hyundai dealer as
you need them(timing belts, etc.), and find someone honest to work on your
car. Otherwise your next "recommended" repair may be for a broken
disgronficator, an expensive part indeed.

Tom Wenndt


"Khaj" <khajouria@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146341238.277656.37650@g10g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking following
> things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance
>

Rev. Tom Wenndt

Puh-leeze! These service shops never cease to amaze me.

-Shop around for the tranny fluid work as surely it can be done cheaper(but
as someone else pointed out, make sure the right fluid is used). In my
world this is the only service you even might need;

-A/C belt? Not likely, but a flashlight will show if there are any
tell-tale cracks. I agree with another poster that the best time to have
that replaced is when you get the timing belt replaced, usually around
60,000 miles, and you have to take this off anyway;

-Power Steering fluid??????? I have noticed the tendency for dealers to
start trying to change things that are just plain never changed in a car.
The first was brake fluid. I am closer to being convinced that, in cars
with ABS, it may not be a bad idea to change it every 2-3 years, but
otherwise have never seen a car that needed it (unless like another poster
said, the car was submerged in water).

But I have never, ever, ever heard of a need to change power steering fluid
in any care. In fact,that would be my tip that this garage is probably a
racket.

The only other legitimate one I can think of is coolant. Has that been at
least drained and refilled, if not flushed?

My advice to you is to get your necessary parts from the Hyundai dealer as
you need them(timing belts, etc.), and find someone honest to work on your
car. Otherwise your next "recommended" repair may be for a broken
disgronficator, an expensive part indeed.

Tom Wenndt


"Khaj" <khajouria@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146341238.277656.37650@g10g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>I have 40K miles on my car 2001 Elantra. The dealer is asking following
> things to be done; -
> 1) Change transmission oil =$170
> 2) Change A/c belt = $117
> 3) Change power steering fluid = $135
> I assume (1) is needed, what anout 2 & 3. How to check.
> Are the rates OK for Atlanta/dealers. Do I need to go to dealer or go
> to anyother shop. Can one do these on your own.
> What is the best way to check break pads/transmission belt.
> Any tips are welcome. My cars will be 5 years on 6/14. Any
> checks/repalcements recommeded before I am out of warranty.
> Thanks in advance
>

Bob

"Rev. Tom Wenndt" <trwenndt@grics.net> wrote in message
news:e31el201sfr@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Puh-leeze! These service shops never cease to amaze me.
>
> -Shop around for the tranny fluid work as surely it can be done
> cheaper(but
I think that you've said in the past that ATF +4 has been declared an
acceptable substitute for SP-III. Now that REAL ATF +4 is available at
Auto-Zone for $3.69, that would be a great price.

Bob

"Rev. Tom Wenndt" <trwenndt@grics.net> wrote in message
news:e31el201sfr@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Puh-leeze! These service shops never cease to amaze me.
>
> -Shop around for the tranny fluid work as surely it can be done
> cheaper(but
I think that you've said in the past that ATF +4 has been declared an
acceptable substitute for SP-III. Now that REAL ATF +4 is available at
Auto-Zone for $3.69, that would be a great price.

Bob

"Rev. Tom Wenndt" <trwenndt@grics.net> wrote in message
news:e31el201sfr@enews4.newsguy.com...
> Puh-leeze! These service shops never cease to amaze me.
>
> -Shop around for the tranny fluid work as surely it can be done
> cheaper(but
I think that you've said in the past that ATF +4 has been declared an
acceptable substitute for SP-III. Now that REAL ATF +4 is available at
Auto-Zone for $3.69, that would be a great price.

hyundaitech

Most of those prices seem high, even for the inflated DC area. But I don't
know what the going rates are in Atlanta.

As far as the transmission fluid, do as Matt said and check your manual.
I'm pretty sure the recommendation is about 100k miles on the tranny
fluid, but check your manual to be safe. I wouldn't want to send you in
the wrong direction and have it cost you. But it's also important to
check the transmission fluid. If it's dark brown, it's probably a good
idea to flush the transmission (or drain and refill it).

If you take a flashlight and look down at the a/c belt under your hood,
you'll probably be able to see some pretty significant cracking of the
ribs where it goes over the tensioner pulley (because the belt is bent
backward). This belt usually starts cracking at around 30k miles or 3
years, so I would expect it probably is a good idea to replace at 40k.

Your car uses Dexron ATF as power steering fluid. There is no maintenance
recommendation in the owner's manual, so I wouldn't do anything to service
it unless you take a sample of fluid from the reservoir and it's
absulotely gross.

Your brake pads should be visually inspected for thickness. Once they
reach 2/32 inch, replace them. If you know what you're looking for, you
can probably see the outer pad through the wheel.

This flush business is something many shops have started doint to increase
profitability. I agree they can be a valuable service under the right
circumstances, but the whole thing winds up being pretty much a racket. A
partnership develops between the dealer and the additive company. The
additive company typically provides the machines as long as you use their
product (or works out some other deal putting the shop on the hook). I'm
not particularly proud that in my shop we are pressured to sell brake,
power steering, coolant, transmission flushes as well as 4wd servicing and
a "performance" oil change which basically runs some detergent oil through
then engine prior to doing an oil change. The shop's recommendation on
the flush services is 2 years/24k miles, which I find particularly gross.
I don't think I've once recommended a power steering or brake flush
(although there is some debate over the value of the brake flush -- I'll
discuss below). I do recommend coolant flushes based on condition of
coolant and maintenance interval (2 years for Hyundai) and transmission
flushes based on fluid condition. The service personnel at the shop
typically receive some sort of spiff to use the additive product. Look
closely at what they're proposing to do in each of these flushes. I'll
bet that each has an additive or some "special" fluid from a particular
automotive chemical supplier. Usually, it's about $.25 to $.5 per service
for the tech. I have no idea how advisors and managers are spiffed, but I
do know that it happens, at least in some cases. That's right; these
products are so good the company pays the shop employees to use them.
Ultimately, it makes the whole thing stink and causes suspicion when such
a service is actually a good idea.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning water bonds to it. So, if your brake
fluid absorbs water over time, this water can in turn begin to corrode
your metal hydraulic brake components (such as wheel cylinders) and
accelerate their failure or leakage. I personally believe that the brake
hydraulic system is largely a closed system which is rarely open to the
atmosphere. As such, its absorbance of water should be minimal.

I can think of little reason to recommend a power steering flush. There
are some older (pre-90s) GM products (particularly Celebrity, 6000, Ciera,
and Century) which tend to have poor cold assist issues which I have seen
the flushes partially alleviate.

hyundaitech

Most of those prices seem high, even for the inflated DC area. But I don't
know what the going rates are in Atlanta.

As far as the transmission fluid, do as Matt said and check your manual.
I'm pretty sure the recommendation is about 100k miles on the tranny
fluid, but check your manual to be safe. I wouldn't want to send you in
the wrong direction and have it cost you. But it's also important to
check the transmission fluid. If it's dark brown, it's probably a good
idea to flush the transmission (or drain and refill it).

If you take a flashlight and look down at the a/c belt under your hood,
you'll probably be able to see some pretty significant cracking of the
ribs where it goes over the tensioner pulley (because the belt is bent
backward). This belt usually starts cracking at around 30k miles or 3
years, so I would expect it probably is a good idea to replace at 40k.

Your car uses Dexron ATF as power steering fluid. There is no maintenance
recommendation in the owner's manual, so I wouldn't do anything to service
it unless you take a sample of fluid from the reservoir and it's
absulotely gross.

Your brake pads should be visually inspected for thickness. Once they
reach 2/32 inch, replace them. If you know what you're looking for, you
can probably see the outer pad through the wheel.

This flush business is something many shops have started doint to increase
profitability. I agree they can be a valuable service under the right
circumstances, but the whole thing winds up being pretty much a racket. A
partnership develops between the dealer and the additive company. The
additive company typically provides the machines as long as you use their
product (or works out some other deal putting the shop on the hook). I'm
not particularly proud that in my shop we are pressured to sell brake,
power steering, coolant, transmission flushes as well as 4wd servicing and
a "performance" oil change which basically runs some detergent oil through
then engine prior to doing an oil change. The shop's recommendation on
the flush services is 2 years/24k miles, which I find particularly gross.
I don't think I've once recommended a power steering or brake flush
(although there is some debate over the value of the brake flush -- I'll
discuss below). I do recommend coolant flushes based on condition of
coolant and maintenance interval (2 years for Hyundai) and transmission
flushes based on fluid condition. The service personnel at the shop
typically receive some sort of spiff to use the additive product. Look
closely at what they're proposing to do in each of these flushes. I'll
bet that each has an additive or some "special" fluid from a particular
automotive chemical supplier. Usually, it's about $.25 to $.5 per service
for the tech. I have no idea how advisors and managers are spiffed, but I
do know that it happens, at least in some cases. That's right; these
products are so good the company pays the shop employees to use them.
Ultimately, it makes the whole thing stink and causes suspicion when such
a service is actually a good idea.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning water bonds to it. So, if your brake
fluid absorbs water over time, this water can in turn begin to corrode
your metal hydraulic brake components (such as wheel cylinders) and
accelerate their failure or leakage. I personally believe that the brake
hydraulic system is largely a closed system which is rarely open to the
atmosphere. As such, its absorbance of water should be minimal.

I can think of little reason to recommend a power steering flush. There
are some older (pre-90s) GM products (particularly Celebrity, 6000, Ciera,
and Century) which tend to have poor cold assist issues which I have seen
the flushes partially alleviate.