Folks,

Over the past couple weeks, our car (1998 Hyundai Accent) has been left
outside through a couple rather cool nights (0-5 Celcius). This is contrary
to being parked in our apartment building's heated (~20C) underground lot as
is the norm.

The past few starts haven't been as strong as usual. Yesterday, as my wife
turned the key to return home from shopping, the car wouldn't start at all.
Dash lights, clock, radio and headlights all ran fine, however. When the
ignition was turned on, the starter engages and then just pulls itself down to
a stop--taking power to the dash lights, etc. with it.

She called for a boost, got the car started, drove home, and left it idling
for about 20 minutes to bring up the battery charge. A couple hours later, I
tried to start the car myself and it did start--No doubt thanks to the idle
time earlier. (Thus I'm pretty sure the alternator can be ruled out.)

This morning, I tried to start the car again without success. Same symptoms
that the wife experience yesterday.

Given that the starter tries to turn the engine over, that there is enough
power to run accessories, and that a boost will start the car, I'm left to
conclude that the battery is due for replacement. (Or so similar experiences
in my days of radio control modelling have taught me: Battery packs can lose
their ability to hold a peak charge with age.)

Are there any quick tests I can do to confirm, or rule out, the weak
battery theory? I presume with a volt-meter across the battery leads, that
the voltage drop between "at rest" and with the starter engaged readings
should provide some information.

I haven't ruled out a loose connection somewhere either. Are there any
trouble spots I should take a look at besides the obvious, being the battery
leads?

Tkx in advance,

--Vincent G.

 

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 15:19:30 GMT, vgrovest@hotmail.com.xx (V.
Grovestine) wrote:

>Folks,
>
>Over the past couple weeks, our car (1998 Hyundai Accent) has been left
>outside through a couple rather cool nights (0-5 Celcius). This is contrary
>to being parked in our apartment building's heated (~20C) underground lot as
>is the norm.
>
>The past few starts haven't been as strong as usual. Yesterday, as my wife
>turned the key to return home from shopping, the car wouldn't start at all.
>Dash lights, clock, radio and headlights all ran fine, however. When the
>ignition was turned on, the starter engages and then just pulls itself down to
>a stop--taking power to the dash lights, etc. with it.
>
>She called for a boost, got the car started, drove home, and left it idling
>for about 20 minutes to bring up the battery charge. A couple hours later, I
>tried to start the car myself and it did start--No doubt thanks to the idle
>time earlier. (Thus I'm pretty sure the alternator can be ruled out.)
>
>This morning, I tried to start the car again without success. Same symptoms
>that the wife experience yesterday.
>
>Given that the starter tries to turn the engine over, that there is enough
>power to run accessories, and that a boost will start the car, I'm left to
>conclude that the battery is due for replacement. (Or so similar experiences
>in my days of radio control modelling have taught me: Battery packs can lose
>their ability to hold a peak charge with age.)
>
>Are there any quick tests I can do to confirm, or rule out, the weak
>battery theory? I presume with a volt-meter across the battery leads, that
>the voltage drop between "at rest" and with the starter engaged readings
>should provide some information.
yes it will.
>
>I haven't ruled out a loose connection somewhere either. Are there any
>trouble spots I should take a look at besides the obvious, being the battery
>leads?
it doesn't sound like a loose connection. do Hyundais ever get those?
i'm starting to think they're the most reliable car on the road.
>
>Tkx in advance,
>
>--Vincent G.

the battery's 5 years old and you're in a part of the world that's
heading towards winter. a battery that's starting to fail will become
obvious in cold weather.
i'd be 99% sure that replacing the battery will be warranted so you
could either just buy one from the cheapest place or get an auto
electrician to check it and then replace it at a higher price.

For the latest weather where i am click
http://members.iinet.net.au/~farmerjim/

 

Average life of a new car battery is 3 - 5 years. If you are on the
5th year, you are running on empty. IMHO

On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 07:13:55 +1000, Jim Vatunz
<rot13.snezrewvz@vvarg.arg.nh> wrote:

>On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 15:19:30 GMT, vgrovest@hotmail.com.xx (V.
>Grovestine) wrote:
>
>>Folks,
>>
>>Over the past couple weeks, our car (1998 Hyundai Accent) has been left
>>outside through a couple rather cool nights (0-5 Celcius). This is contrary
>>to being parked in our apartment building's heated (~20C) underground lot as
>>is the norm.
>>
>>The past few starts haven't been as strong as usual. Yesterday, as my wife
>>turned the key to return home from shopping, the car wouldn't start at all.
>>Dash lights, clock, radio and headlights all ran fine, however. When the
>>ignition was turned on, the starter engages and then just pulls itself down to
>>a stop--taking power to the dash lights, etc. with it.
>>
>>She called for a boost, got the car started, drove home, and left it idling
>>for about 20 minutes to bring up the battery charge. A couple hours later, I
>>tried to start the car myself and it did start--No doubt thanks to the idle
>>time earlier. (Thus I'm pretty sure the alternator can be ruled out.)
>>
>>This morning, I tried to start the car again without success. Same symptoms
>>that the wife experience yesterday.
>>
>>Given that the starter tries to turn the engine over, that there is enough
>>power to run accessories, and that a boost will start the car, I'm left to
>>conclude that the battery is due for replacement. (Or so similar experiences
>>in my days of radio control modelling have taught me: Battery packs can lose
>>their ability to hold a peak charge with age.)
>>
>>Are there any quick tests I can do to confirm, or rule out, the weak
>>battery theory? I presume with a volt-meter across the battery leads, that
>>the voltage drop between "at rest" and with the starter engaged readings
>>should provide some information.
>yes it will.
>>
>>I haven't ruled out a loose connection somewhere either. Are there any
>>trouble spots I should take a look at besides the obvious, being the battery
>>leads?
>it doesn't sound like a loose connection. do Hyundais ever get those?
>i'm starting to think they're the most reliable car on the road.
>>
>>Tkx in advance,
>>
>>--Vincent G.
>
>the battery's 5 years old and you're in a part of the world that's
>heading towards winter. a battery that's starting to fail will become
>obvious in cold weather.
>i'd be 99% sure that replacing the battery will be warranted so you
>could either just buy one from the cheapest place or get an auto
>electrician to check it and then replace it at a higher price.
>
>For the latest weather where i am click
>http://members.iinet.net.au/~farmerjim/

 

Approximately 10/21/03 08:19, V. Grovestine uttered for posterity:


> Given that the starter tries to turn the engine over, that there is enough
> power to run accessories, and that a boost will start the car, I'm left to
> conclude that the battery is due for replacement. (Or so similar experiences
> in my days of radio control modelling have taught me: Battery packs can lose
> their ability to hold a peak charge with age.)
>
Turning over a cold engine takes hundreds of amps. The next highest
load on a battery is probably the 20-30 amps max for the heater blower
so there is a bit of a disconnect in power requirements.

Worse, many batteries are constructed such that they fail very very
ungracefully. Work fine right up until they give a bit of trouble,
then bang, can't even light a weak bulb any more.

One thing to make sure of is that you have a 5W30 or 10W30 type
engine oil, as the oil gets surpringly thick at cold temps and
makes the battery's job more difficult. However, symptoms of
wrong oil are usually that the engine will fire, but immediately
die.

> Are there any quick tests I can do to confirm, or rule out, the weak
> battery theory? I presume with a volt-meter across the battery leads, that
> the voltage drop between "at rest" and with the starter engaged readings
> should provide some information.

Yup. If the battery is more than a couple years old, just swap it.
Most battery sales places can make a better check that involves
actually putting a load on the battery to avoid a skin charge
looking like a good battery when it ain't.

>
> I haven't ruled out a loose connection somewhere either. Are there any
> trouble spots I should take a look at besides the obvious, being the battery
> leads?

Make sure they are clean and very very very tight.

The other places would be at the starter itself and also the
main ground from the battery to the body as well as from the
starter to the body. These all need to be extremely clean
and tight to be able to carry starting current.


>
> --Vincent G.


--
My governor can kick your governor's ***

 

I agree with other coments, only one thing I would like to add: If you want
your new battery to last longer, renew your alternator too: two bearings,
new brushes and smoothened rings on the rotor can make miracle here...