SR20DET Swap Information
12-12-2006, 04:36 PM
#1
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SR20DET Swap Information
SR20DET Swap Information
--------------------------
I have read a few posts on this forum in regards to SR20 swaps and all most all of the information given is WAY off. Hopefully what I post below will help those who do not know, learn a little about what is required to properly complete an SR swap.
This information goes for both the S13 (1989 - 1994) & S14 (1995 - 1998) model year 240SX's
1) FWD SR20DET's from the Pulsar GTiR will not fit the RWD layout of the 240SX's. Reason being that the mounting locations for the engine mounts & accessories (power steering pump, A/C compressor, alternator, ect.) are all cast in different locations. The RNN14 SR20DET's only similarity with the S13 & S14 SR20DET's is the internal construction of the blocks as all internal parts are interchangeable.
2) Purchasing a front clip for the swap is highly reccomended as most engine packages (ie. Engine, Transmission, ECU & Wiring Harness) do not include any sort of intercooler setup, downpipe, Mass Air Sensor or ignitor. And about 50% of the engine packages I have seen have come with damaged CAS (Cam Angle Sensors) & cut harnesses as a result of how the engine was removed from the clip. You must remember that most of these engines are removed from their respective cars from people who a) are paid poorly and are uneducated on properly removing an engine and b) don't care if a sensor breaks, once the engine is out and ready for shipping their job is done.
Although labour is more expensive when purchasing a front clip as the person doing the swap will charge extra for removing the engine & components, that charge is far less then the cost of replacing missing/damaged parts that are inevitable with purchasing just an engine set. Unless you have a hefty budget and plan on doing all aftermarket parts like an FMIC, turbo exhaust & aftermarket engine management right away, a clip is the most economical means of completeing a swap.
Even for my own car I spent the extra for a clip. The hastle of getting an engine set for $800 cheaper then a clip just isnt worth it as the parts you will need are of far greater expense then the difference in price from buying just an engine set.
3) Not all SR's are the same. The S13 SR20DET is the entry level swap. It is the cheapest to purchase and also the cheapest to install. Reason is that it is an older motor and uses a more simplified wiring layout. Mechanically speaking it is no more difficult to install than an S14 SR is, but it is far easier to wire up. On a sidenote the S13 Blacktop & Redtop are the EXACT SAME. The only difference is that they came from different years and have different valve covers. Redtop SR's were from 89.5 - 94 and blacktops were from 96 - 98. The reason blacktops are more expensive is because they are newer and typically have lower mileage. In terms of output both are rated the same at 202hp & 205 ft/lbs, both use the same parts and both use the same turbines.
The S14 SR20DET is more expensive because it has 20 more hp. It gets its extra HP from a dual ball bearing T28 turbo (whereas the S13 uses a wet float bearing T25). S14 SR's also have VCT or variable cam timing. Due to this added electrical, installation in terms of wiring is also more expensive.
The top of the line SR20DET, the S15 is very expensive and very involving. The 6-speed transmission is longer and uses a different output for the driveshaft so to swap an S15 SR into either an S13 or S14 chassis you will require all the above listed S13 parts plus the S15 driveshaft, differential & speedometer plug. The speedometer plug is required because the S15 speedo sensor is in the diff not the transmission. Installation and wiring on a package like this goes for around $2000 for just the basic install not including other parts. Reason being that there is even more wiring aswell as more mechanical work to be done.
4) Swapping an SR is not at all like swapping a honda. Much more parts are required aswell as alot more wiring. On the scale of motor swaps honda's are by far the easiest so donot think that the ease of those swaps is comparable to the nissan swaps. The only swap easier then a honda swap is swapping an SBC (small block chev) but thats a different story entirely.
There is alot of details that have been omitted because I do not have the time to write a tell-all novel about the SR swaps. I just wanted to give a bit of insight into the swap and let everyone know that a basic SR swap is not going to cost an arm and a leg if done right. (FYI an s13 swap installed & running should be in the $4000 area and will be a mid 14-second car stock if running well using normal tires and other stock parts)
I specialize in doing these swaps so if you require more details let me know. As I am not posting this to get a commercial response I will not post rates/actual to the dollar prices aswell as tell you that I am the only one that can do this.
There are a few shops around the area that can complete these swaps and if you would like I can tell you of shops around your area that may be able to assist you.
Thanks and feel free to leave any feedback you have.
--------------------------
I have read a few posts on this forum in regards to SR20 swaps and all most all of the information given is WAY off. Hopefully what I post below will help those who do not know, learn a little about what is required to properly complete an SR swap.
This information goes for both the S13 (1989 - 1994) & S14 (1995 - 1998) model year 240SX's
1) FWD SR20DET's from the Pulsar GTiR will not fit the RWD layout of the 240SX's. Reason being that the mounting locations for the engine mounts & accessories (power steering pump, A/C compressor, alternator, ect.) are all cast in different locations. The RNN14 SR20DET's only similarity with the S13 & S14 SR20DET's is the internal construction of the blocks as all internal parts are interchangeable.
2) Purchasing a front clip for the swap is highly reccomended as most engine packages (ie. Engine, Transmission, ECU & Wiring Harness) do not include any sort of intercooler setup, downpipe, Mass Air Sensor or ignitor. And about 50% of the engine packages I have seen have come with damaged CAS (Cam Angle Sensors) & cut harnesses as a result of how the engine was removed from the clip. You must remember that most of these engines are removed from their respective cars from people who a) are paid poorly and are uneducated on properly removing an engine and b) don't care if a sensor breaks, once the engine is out and ready for shipping their job is done.
Although labour is more expensive when purchasing a front clip as the person doing the swap will charge extra for removing the engine & components, that charge is far less then the cost of replacing missing/damaged parts that are inevitable with purchasing just an engine set. Unless you have a hefty budget and plan on doing all aftermarket parts like an FMIC, turbo exhaust & aftermarket engine management right away, a clip is the most economical means of completeing a swap.
Even for my own car I spent the extra for a clip. The hastle of getting an engine set for $800 cheaper then a clip just isnt worth it as the parts you will need are of far greater expense then the difference in price from buying just an engine set.
3) Not all SR's are the same. The S13 SR20DET is the entry level swap. It is the cheapest to purchase and also the cheapest to install. Reason is that it is an older motor and uses a more simplified wiring layout. Mechanically speaking it is no more difficult to install than an S14 SR is, but it is far easier to wire up. On a sidenote the S13 Blacktop & Redtop are the EXACT SAME. The only difference is that they came from different years and have different valve covers. Redtop SR's were from 89.5 - 94 and blacktops were from 96 - 98. The reason blacktops are more expensive is because they are newer and typically have lower mileage. In terms of output both are rated the same at 202hp & 205 ft/lbs, both use the same parts and both use the same turbines.
The S14 SR20DET is more expensive because it has 20 more hp. It gets its extra HP from a dual ball bearing T28 turbo (whereas the S13 uses a wet float bearing T25). S14 SR's also have VCT or variable cam timing. Due to this added electrical, installation in terms of wiring is also more expensive.
The top of the line SR20DET, the S15 is very expensive and very involving. The 6-speed transmission is longer and uses a different output for the driveshaft so to swap an S15 SR into either an S13 or S14 chassis you will require all the above listed S13 parts plus the S15 driveshaft, differential & speedometer plug. The speedometer plug is required because the S15 speedo sensor is in the diff not the transmission. Installation and wiring on a package like this goes for around $2000 for just the basic install not including other parts. Reason being that there is even more wiring aswell as more mechanical work to be done.
4) Swapping an SR is not at all like swapping a honda. Much more parts are required aswell as alot more wiring. On the scale of motor swaps honda's are by far the easiest so donot think that the ease of those swaps is comparable to the nissan swaps. The only swap easier then a honda swap is swapping an SBC (small block chev) but thats a different story entirely.
There is alot of details that have been omitted because I do not have the time to write a tell-all novel about the SR swaps. I just wanted to give a bit of insight into the swap and let everyone know that a basic SR swap is not going to cost an arm and a leg if done right. (FYI an s13 swap installed & running should be in the $4000 area and will be a mid 14-second car stock if running well using normal tires and other stock parts)
I specialize in doing these swaps so if you require more details let me know. As I am not posting this to get a commercial response I will not post rates/actual to the dollar prices aswell as tell you that I am the only one that can do this.
There are a few shops around the area that can complete these swaps and if you would like I can tell you of shops around your area that may be able to assist you.
Thanks and feel free to leave any feedback you have.
Last edited by Flashpoint-Matt; 12-12-2006 at 08:29 PM.
02-21-2008, 04:21 PM
#4
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hey i have a 90 240 sx im puttin in a 91 sr20 det red top and its in but the turbo heat the one that goes into the downpipe line is hittin my stearin arm and i cant turn the car now im usin the sr moter mounts and teh red light is on in the computer dont know why ither also i havent changed anything in the wirin yet i know i have to exstend a few wires but will it start if i dont cahnge them i know theres 3 wires u have to hook up to the front of the car and whta do u sugest for the power stearin lines cause there all on the other side of the car. so any help would be great cause its makin me madd lol i really wnat it to start thank you
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