323 FWD rotory drag car LINK FIXED!
01-15-2007, 07:59 PM
#1
01-16-2007, 10:29 PM
#6
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For an all-out drag car, that setup is best... but for a street car, it's impossible. Mounting it transverse would be the only way to do it in a street car, and it's quite possible. I've seen pictures of a transverse mounted rotary in an older 323, but that's all I've seen or heard on the car. I don't even know if the guy ever got it running. I've been thinking up a way to do it, working my way around the major problems I think I would encounter. I'd love to put it in a light car like a Festiva. It would an awesome project, it would probably end up being faster then most street-prepped all-motor Honda's out there, and more reliable...
01-18-2007, 02:33 AM
#9
well that would be an intersting swap for the most part! 
What transmission would you use? Also you would be limited to certain rotary engines due to the transverse setup, but i am sure you wouldn;t get into multiple rotors or anything like that anyways. I think that would be a fun little street car.
What transmission would you use? Also you would be limited to certain rotary engines due to the transverse setup, but i am sure you wouldn;t get into multiple rotors or anything like that anyways. I think that would be a fun little street car.
01-19-2007, 01:29 PM
#10
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I would use a B-series Honda transmission, for multiple reasons.
A two-rotor would be good enough for a street car. There are only 2 2-rotor rotaries you could use, a Mazda 12A or a Mazda 13B, both which would require almost the exact same process to swap in. The only difference would be that one of your mounts would be 20mm farther in to account for the shorter length of the 12A.
The more I think about this, the more I want to do it...
A two-rotor would be good enough for a street car. There are only 2 2-rotor rotaries you could use, a Mazda 12A or a Mazda 13B, both which would require almost the exact same process to swap in. The only difference would be that one of your mounts would be 20mm farther in to account for the shorter length of the 12A.
The more I think about this, the more I want to do it...
01-20-2007, 02:52 AM
#11
Originally Posted by B6T
I would use a B-series Honda transmission, for multiple reasons.
A two-rotor would be good enough for a street car. There are only 2 2-rotor rotaries you could use, a Mazda 12A or a Mazda 13B, both which would require almost the exact same process to swap in. The only difference would be that one of your mounts would be 20mm farther in to account for the shorter length of the 12A.
The more I think about this, the more I want to do it...
A two-rotor would be good enough for a street car. There are only 2 2-rotor rotaries you could use, a Mazda 12A or a Mazda 13B, both which would require almost the exact same process to swap in. The only difference would be that one of your mounts would be 20mm farther in to account for the shorter length of the 12A.
The more I think about this, the more I want to do it...
i love crossbread swaps! I know alot of people are against them, but everyone always drools over the ones that have been successful. I had an AE86 coupe and startered the project of an sr20. I had a celica supra solid rear axle (RARE) to handle the power and make it easier to hook up the 4 link. I had the sr and the old carbed motor out of the ae, but things went to as i fell into a finacial situation.
Anyways enough of that! I would love to see you tackle this if its feasible for you.
It would be light, agile, and if you played with the gear ratios i am sure it would be wicked fast in the 1/4. Possibly due some calculations to find out what your best combination could be.
01-20-2007, 05:12 AM
#12
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yea fwd straight motor 13b would be pretty gangster to see.
fred, whats the biggest problems you have to overcome? will driving the accessories off the side have any clearance issues (too early to tell i guess) but you probably dont need to run anything more than the water pump, alternator, and thats about it. but what about plumbing for the coolant? the lower water neck off the 13b would probably be the issue, upper one probably easily worked around. what about the oil pan? how does that clear? i guess most of these questions you wont be able to tackle until you actually drop a 13b into a subframe and start taking measurements. ifor simplicity sake, NA 13b would be killer, especially if you went very simple with webers and distributor.
this was always something i wanted to see done into some lightweight fwd car revving it out to 11k on the streets reliably
fred, whats the biggest problems you have to overcome? will driving the accessories off the side have any clearance issues (too early to tell i guess) but you probably dont need to run anything more than the water pump, alternator, and thats about it. but what about plumbing for the coolant? the lower water neck off the 13b would probably be the issue, upper one probably easily worked around. what about the oil pan? how does that clear? i guess most of these questions you wont be able to tackle until you actually drop a 13b into a subframe and start taking measurements. ifor simplicity sake, NA 13b would be killer, especially if you went very simple with webers and distributor.
this was always something i wanted to see done into some lightweight fwd car revving it out to 11k on the streets reliably
01-23-2007, 12:40 AM
#13
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I was wrong, the idea to use the B-series transmission won't work. My thinking was to use that transmission because it would position the engine with the flywheel on the passenger side, so that the intake and exhaust ports on the rotary would be facing the front of the car. I forgot which direction rotaries spin, and it's the opposite of what is needed for a B-series transmission (or any passenger side FWD transmission) to work. The B-series engine spins CCW and the rotary spins CW (both facing the crank pulley). I thought a B-series spun CW for some reason.
That would have got around the major obstacle, which is having a half-shaft sitting in the space where the exhaust ports want to be. No problem though, it can be overcome through tilting the engine forwards or backwards enough so the ports will clear the half-shaft.
Anyway, it's possible to do this... it's only a matter of time and money.
That would have got around the major obstacle, which is having a half-shaft sitting in the space where the exhaust ports want to be. No problem though, it can be overcome through tilting the engine forwards or backwards enough so the ports will clear the half-shaft.
Anyway, it's possible to do this... it's only a matter of time and money.
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