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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:12 PM
  #16  
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well for 99 thunder racing has a plain old SLP cover. or at least they used to. the SLP cover is aluminum and has a drain plug. its what i want. otherwise summit has chrome ones for 10 bucks. but im with you...chrome would look funny.
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:50 PM
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wow 10 bucks? Id almost buy that and then paint it to whatever color I want for $10.
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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yeah i was gonna say that for 10 bucks you could just paint it too. lol
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by paarman97maro
OKay cool.. Thats all I really wanted anyway. Just somthing that looks better than grimey grease... Im going to try to make my underbody look a little more presentable next year.

So you can pick them up at autozone? Of all places I would have never guessed there haha.
Why dont you just take your stock one off, clean it and beadblast it?
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:01 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Phate
Why dont you just take your stock one off, clean it and beadblast it?
Because thats too much effort, and Im not installing my gears. Id rather just get one, if they are $10, and up my painting skills.

I think you keep forgetting that I live in an apt... I dont have any tools.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:11 AM
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so you gonna just get a cheap chrome one and paint it than paar?
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:14 AM
  #22  
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Possibly..

The cheapest one Ive found on summit is 20 bucks, which still isnt expensive.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Somthing like that maybe.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:21 AM
  #23  
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yeah thats still not a bad price. if your going to paint it make sure you paint the bolts also. I forgot to and they looked even uglier than with a rusty cover.
Attached Thumbnails diff covers-img_0452-medium-.jpg  
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Phate
Why dont you just take your stock one off, clean it and beadblast it?
the cost to clean it is more than replacing it
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 03:23 PM
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yup- plus if you are going to a shop i'm sure they would prefer putting clean parts back on.

Paar- if you were thinking ahead, take your new cover and have a bung welded into it so that you can drain your fluid and change it yourself without having to break the seal on the diff.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:28 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by FORCE_FED_Z
yup- plus if you are going to a shop i'm sure they would prefer putting clean parts back on.

Paar- if you were thinking ahead, take your new cover and have a bung welded into it so that you can drain your fluid and change it yourself without having to break the seal on the diff.
Good call.

I know this isnt the right cover, I just googled one, but where approximately would I weld this? Obviously the bottom, but is there some spots that are better than others as far as draining? Do I want it completely at the bottom?

Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:42 PM
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my suggestion would be to put the bung as far on the driver or the passenger side as you can at the bottom of course. that way you can jack up the opposite side of the car that the bung is on and get the most fluid out. just my .02
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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As close to the bottom as you can get it- just make sure it won't interfere with the diff itself. If you use a short plug then I don't see how it would anyway.

You won't drain all of it, but it you can get a magnetic plug it will catch any metal in the fluid, then that little bit that stays in the bottom shouldn't be a problem.
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 06:19 PM
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ive seen em used on Cz28 for like 90 bucks...
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