JooneJune

Okay so here is the deal, both blocks are out of the chasis, the LT1 is ready to go in. I want to change a few things before i drop it in.

My stock intake and heads are being sent to a machine shop, I am going to try and replicate LT4 measurements, then port and polish them. (195cc runners, 2.00-2.02 intake 1.56-1.60 exhaust 54-64cc chambers if possible) TB is getting ported and polished (Bored to 55mm), MAF is going screenless and polished, K&N on the CAI. Got my new wires, Brakes, Rotors, Posi Rear end, Ordering 3.73s but i need a cam!

Help me pick a cam for an app like this.

PCM is being sent out for a custom chip. In the future I might Supercharge or put a 75-150 shot of NO2. But for now I want to run compression so i can use 93 octane and not worry about getting race fuel

And is a good machine shop able to create those measurements for my heads, or should i go get some trickflow bare cast.

I got my hopes crushed, Accel made a Super-ram intake manifold but summit no longer sells the item, I believe it is discontinued. So i need to work with what i have.:banghead:

Someone please comment, let me know how you feel with this set up, and give me an honest opinion. I want something fast, but streetable. A a mustang eating, import crushing V8 LT1.

NoRiceInside

i've heard rumors of edelbrock making an airgap intake for late model LT1s. but other than that, you can try to find a used LT4 manifold floating around. they discontinued them a few years ago.

as for a cam...there a quite a few choices. for a street car the LT4 or cc305 are very basic cams that are still daily driveable. you can go big with a GM847 or an LE Stage 3.

heres a good link for LT1 cams with sound clips:

http://www.lt1engine.com/soundlib/cam.html

69z-28

for a cam, there are tons of options, all depending on your usage/wants and just what works best. there are all sorts of lifts/durations and LSA's too look out for and also custom cams arent too hard to get ahold of, if you would like to get a little more serious. some cams that are popular off the shelf would be the LT4 hotcam, cc305, cc502, cc306, GM847, LE1/2/3 or a custom cam can be gotten through Lloyd Elliot etc. if you are lookin for an excellent cam/head package check out Lloyds stuff. he is one of the best.

JooneJune

Holly makes a nice LT1 RAM intake, for 2k. Holly claims 380 some HP with 32# injectors, with higher injectors you can reach 500hp. So Zach states from summit racing.

I was looking at the LT4 hot cam, and an LT4 set up, but those manifolds are rough to come by.

The cam specs and what each number means looks like jibberiish to me. When it comes to cams i get lost. I am going to check out the lt1 page once i find my speakers lol.

I'm looking at a bunch of options, all i want to reach 400+ hp...

69z-28

if you are lookin for 400 hp... the stock intake is fine, you can send it to somebody but honestly it is a decent intake stock. I talked to Lloyd a while ago and i would suggest an LE1 or LE2 package from him. you will need to buy some misc. valvetrain parts but he will set you up. aside from getting a cam from him and sending him your heads for tweaking, you will need rocker arms, pushrods, lifters possibly, timing chain/set, all the gaskets obviously and lots of other small crap to get the job done. the supporting mods you would need are, CAI, headers, nice exhaust after that, bigger injectors, and a custom tune. i think thats all of it. his setups range from around 370 horse to 410+, or he can do really wild custom stuff. check on camaroz28.com for lots of info about him and his products.

FORCE_FED_Z

I agree with 69, he jumped me on sayin the stock intake is fine. I am still running the stock intake with my set-up and it doens't appear to be a restriction at this point. I did however port match to my heads, easily done with a dremel and some patience. I would save the $$ you would spend on trying to get an LT4 intake and spend it elsewhere. When I was where you were a couple years ago, both TPiS and Lingenfelter told me that the LT4 wasn't worth the money to get one unless you have the money to do it. I think that those are trustworthy sources on the subject of LT4.

You mentioned cam questions. Here is a quick rundown.

You said that you would like to run either juice/blower sometime in the future. I would get a cam that has a higher exhaust lift and a longer exhaust duration- these are the second numbers. For instance my cam is a .502/.520 with 224/236 duration and 114 lobe seperation.

What this does is make sure that all of exhaust is able to get out. When you are forcing more air in, either by forced induction or juice, that extra air needs to get out. If you run a mirror cam, (same lift/duration) you won't be making full potential power since not all of the exhaust gases are getting a chance to escape.

The down side to these cams are that they won't make as much low-end torque until you put the boost/juice to it since they aren't designed to run that way. They will start to really pull around 3800 and start to go nuts around 5500 though. I know this first hand since I went a year before I put the blower to the car. My cam has an awesome idle to it, it sounds a lot bigger than it is.

I will warn you that one of the biggest mistakes that amaetuer builders make is put too big of a cam in the car. Saying you have a 570 lift cam is cool, but its not cool when you don't make power and torque until 4 grand. You have to be honest with yourself and choose a cam for what the car will actually be used for. If its a DD then get a cam with a range of 1500-6000. How often do you actually go up that high on the RPM's anyway during a normal day? You can go past obviously if its tuned for it and the motor can put up with it, but its not necessary.

If you want I will try and post up a sound clip/video of my car on the dyno so you can hear what it sounds like. You will probably be surprised it sounds as mean as it does with as small of a cam as it is.

Oh BTW, 400hp flywheel isn't hard to get at all with an LT1, you can almost do it without getting into the heads. Some LS1 people down the LT1 but its still a nice motor to build- not to mention go-fast parts are A LOT cheaper!!

blue89vert

hey force fed even though i dont have an lt1 that was an awesome right up and im sure it would help this guy out

69z-28

i was gonna say, you put a nice amount of time into that, obviously since cams are such a broad topic there is TONS more than what you said, but that is a very good simple write up with some key points. especially about the big cam and choosing for your needs.

NoRiceInside

lloyd elliot is the ****. im definitely going with him in the future. half the price of new heads.

and as for the LT1 being a good motor, companies are starting to see that so the market is coming back

just be careful when searching for parts. "LT1" and "LT4" designations were used back in the day for old carbed small blocks as well, so that ram intake holley makes might be for those engines.

FORCE_FED_Z

Most if not all of it applies to basically any motor, esp SBC. There aren't many differences between the TPI and LT1, basically ignition source and coolant flow.

But yeah, you can go on and on for pages about cam specs and choices and opinions, I was just tryin to hit some of the big stuff to kinda steer him in the right direction..

blue89vert

that was a great right up though and now ill be able to choose a cam for myself instead of having someone else pick one for me!

69z-28

you can now choose a cam because you read 7 short paragraphs.lol. nice

FORCE_FED_Z

I am by no means a cam expert nor do I claim to be one. I will be the first one to call Comp and see what cam they recommend for my application should it change.

I would call a couple companies, Comp, Crane, Lunati, Summit, Jegs etc and see what they recommend for a cam. If they are all recommending the same basic cam then I would go with what they suggest. There is a reason they get paid to sit by the phone. I say call a couple since you just might get a newb who isn't totally up on all his info, but more than likely he will still give a pretty good suggestion.

aarontracy

like forcefedz said call comp cams or who ever u want to order the cam from. because u cant just go ordering just any 350small block cam. lt1 cam's have a longer dowl pin which drives the opti spark, which also means the timing set for a lt1 differs from all other 350's. no matter how much u know or think u know it is always smart to call. the guys at comp are great but be prepared to sit on hold for a little while. if u tell them what u want to do and the numbers on ur heads they will likely tell u to go with a custom grind cam. if u want to go with a common cam i have a cc503 which is .503/.510 224/230 112LSA (with 1.5 rockers). i love the cam just wish i had a stall but it still makes a ton of power even untuned.

oh ya if u go ordering parts comp wants like 400 bucks for a timing set and a lunati timing set is only like 180. found that out the hard way.

69z-28

timing set.... get an electric water pump, which will let loose a good amount of HP, then set yourself up with a summit/ any other brand name, small block chevy double roller timing set. the sets are like 50 bucks from summit/jegs, and water pump is around 150-200 i think. either way that is best timing set you can get, especially for the money, and the E-wp should be gotten if your looking for gobs of HP.hehe