Looking at an IROC
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: La Crosse, WI / Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,556
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Looking at an IROC
This guy lives about 10 mins away from me. He said I could meet up with him anytime to check it out. I am just looking at diffrent kinds of 3rd gens. I really want a 91-92 z28, but also I loved late 80s Irocs.. Heres one I wanted to see what you guys thought about.
The only thing I worry about is it not being reliable eventhough it only has 6k on the motor and tranny. He is selling it for 9,500 to start up his own business. It looks badass its just the reliability factor that I am wondering about. because I want one I dont have to put alot of maintence into since I dont have tools or any of that kinda stuff to work on a car myself.
Heres from an email he sent me:
1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Original miles: 130k
Miles on engine/tranny: 6k
Miles on 9” rear: 15k
Engine:
383 ci – originally a L98 TPI 350. Longblock
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
Induction, fuel and engine management.
• Holley Stealth Ram intake – Ported to match AFR heads.
• Holley 1000 CFM Billet Throttle Body
• 4” custom built cold air kit w/ 1000 cfm K&N filter
• Venom 30 lb/hr injectors
• Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
• Accel DFI VI engine management system. (Will include laptop, software and cable for tuning purposes)
• Holley in-tank 255 lph fuel pump.
Ignition
• Accel 8mm wires
• Mallory Hi-Fire VI
• MSD Blaster HVC II coil
• NGK V power plugs
Exhaust
• Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4” Full length headers.
• Mufflex 3” dual to 4” single Y Pipe. Mufflex 4” exhaust w/ Edelbrock Victor 4” race muffler.
Transmission / Rear End:
• Art Carr Extreme 700-R4. Rebuilt locally with all Performance Friction Red clutches and HP bands.
• SLP 2800 stall lockup converter (Also have a 9” 3000 stall Art Carr TQ included)
• Fan powered 6 pass transmission cooler mounted behind front fascia.
• Custom built 4” steel Driveshaft – high speed balanced.
• Currie ford style 9” rear with 31 spline axles / 3.70 gear ratio. 1LE PBR calipers rear disk brakes.
Suspension:
• Eibach Sportline Springs / KYB struts and shocks
• Random Technologies adjustable torque arm
• Random Technologies tubular control arms w/ relocation brackets welded in.
• Adjustable tubular panhard bar.
Misc notes:
The entire inside of the car has been sound deadened with sound deadener. .75” and 3” acoustical sound absorption foam used anywhere it could be applied. I have pics of installation.
Custom built sub box and amp rack will be included, amps and subs are not included in the price of the vehicle.
Links to page
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/217245297.html
The only thing I worry about is it not being reliable eventhough it only has 6k on the motor and tranny. He is selling it for 9,500 to start up his own business. It looks badass its just the reliability factor that I am wondering about. because I want one I dont have to put alot of maintence into since I dont have tools or any of that kinda stuff to work on a car myself.
Heres from an email he sent me:
1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Original miles: 130k
Miles on engine/tranny: 6k
Miles on 9” rear: 15k
Engine:
383 ci – originally a L98 TPI 350. Longblock
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
Induction, fuel and engine management.
• Holley Stealth Ram intake – Ported to match AFR heads.
• Holley 1000 CFM Billet Throttle Body
• 4” custom built cold air kit w/ 1000 cfm K&N filter
• Venom 30 lb/hr injectors
• Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
• Accel DFI VI engine management system. (Will include laptop, software and cable for tuning purposes)
• Holley in-tank 255 lph fuel pump.
Ignition
• Accel 8mm wires
• Mallory Hi-Fire VI
• MSD Blaster HVC II coil
• NGK V power plugs
Exhaust
• Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4” Full length headers.
• Mufflex 3” dual to 4” single Y Pipe. Mufflex 4” exhaust w/ Edelbrock Victor 4” race muffler.
Transmission / Rear End:
• Art Carr Extreme 700-R4. Rebuilt locally with all Performance Friction Red clutches and HP bands.
• SLP 2800 stall lockup converter (Also have a 9” 3000 stall Art Carr TQ included)
• Fan powered 6 pass transmission cooler mounted behind front fascia.
• Custom built 4” steel Driveshaft – high speed balanced.
• Currie ford style 9” rear with 31 spline axles / 3.70 gear ratio. 1LE PBR calipers rear disk brakes.
Suspension:
• Eibach Sportline Springs / KYB struts and shocks
• Random Technologies adjustable torque arm
• Random Technologies tubular control arms w/ relocation brackets welded in.
• Adjustable tubular panhard bar.
Misc notes:
The entire inside of the car has been sound deadened with sound deadener. .75” and 3” acoustical sound absorption foam used anywhere it could be applied. I have pics of installation.
Custom built sub box and amp rack will be included, amps and subs are not included in the price of the vehicle.
Links to page
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/217245297.html
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: La Crosse, WI / Minneapolis, MN
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Its not exactly what I want, but I just wanted you guyses opions just to see if I should pursue this one further since its so close by if it is a good deal.
#5
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Like would this be reliable enough to go to an event someplace .. maybe called CSF?? which is 500 miles away haha thats what I would be worried about.
Also it has 130k on the body does that mean anything bad or not?
If I did check it out what would I look for and ask while testdriving it. I am a n00b at cars.
Also it has 130k on the body does that mean anything bad or not?
If I did check it out what would I look for and ask while testdriving it. I am a n00b at cars.
#7
I would think so. Look at how many 3rd gens were there last year... granted, some were probably trailored... but still, theres low miles on that engine, I dont think youll have to worry. How long ago did he do the swap? Has he driven it regularly? Did he put those miles on? If so, ask him if hes had any problems at ALL.
#8
nice car I'd offer a grand less to start with, price is a tad high but not outrageous, 130k on the body means there are that many miles on any mount that hasn't been replaced same with any piece of rubber, console lid may be seperating (for $10k the car would be a 2+ condition that is a 3+ or 2- from what I see in pics) the subs not matching is another thing that needs attention (different brands and models have a different sound, and different dynamics) that's minor, but shows a lack of attention on the sellers part, what else is missmatched? I don't want to sound like I'm cutting the car down, but that is how you look at a used car, you start looking for things wrong, the fewer you find the better the car (every car for sale has an issue) I would not point things out to the seller, unless he was over representing, but ask about mounts, if he says they are original make a comment like ok those will need replacing. Be nice to him and the low offer many times is accepted (just tell him it's a nice car, but is a bit more than you wanted to spend or something like that)
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: La Crosse, WI / Minneapolis, MN
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Originally Posted by archemedes
(for $10k the car would be a 2+ condition that is a 3+ or 2- from what I see in pics)
#11
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Oh okay thanks When im test driving it what things should I look for and stuff. I think I remmeber you telling me before maybe go to the persons place and see it being started up cold because that would show more problems than if it had been running for a while if I met them somewhere.
#12
looks nice. lotta money for an iroc tho. you can get a stock one(which might be better for a first iroc) for around 4k tho that is extremely nice! and will prolly be pretty reliable with normal maintenance.
#15
check if it tracks straight , feel how it shift at light throttle, and full throttle, turn off the stereo and listen for funny noises, watch for smoke on startup of course, crawl under and look for leaks (with as few miles as he claims on everything it should be bone dry)