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Looking at an IROC

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Old 10-28-2006, 09:37 PM
  #31  
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Donno I just though I would wait for a 91-92 z28
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Old 10-28-2006, 09:43 PM
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Smart choice i rushed into my camaro and got screwed in the end...wait to get exactly what you want in the condition you want and the price you want you will be much much happier
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Old 10-30-2006, 08:54 PM
  #33  
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MORE PICTURES!!!!!!! NICE!!
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:21 PM
  #34  
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Wink Iroc

If all is as claimed as to parts, not counting the labor end
of it your looking at a hell of a deal.

You could find another one for 2 to 3 grand and start
setting it up the way you want it and probably find out
pretty quickly if as stated was a real deal.

Just looking at the pictures I can tell not a cobbled car.
Only thing I noticed was L98 block and not a 4 bolt or
would have stated it. Not a big problem if 7 grand
or heavy drag car intended use.
JMHO

Later
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:25 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Irocing
If all is as claimed as to parts, not counting the labor end
of it your looking at a hell of a deal.

You could find another one for 2 to 3 grand and start
setting it up the way you want it and probably find out
pretty quickly if as stated was a real deal.

Just looking at the pictures I can tell not a cobbled car.
Only thing I noticed was L98 block and not a 4 bolt or
would have stated it. Not a big problem if 7 grand
or heavy drag car intended use.
JMHO

Later
Irocing
not worth it at all, it's got rust (you can't sell a car for what you put into it especially when it's engine stuff) 4 bolt block is not needed (over about 600 hp they are actually worse since they crack at the bolt holes) the 3rd gen cars sell at auction (meaning higher prices) all day under 10K heck even hemmings says if you pay over 10K for a 3rd gen you got ripped off unless it's perfect (aka no mods better than showroom condition) and then no more than 12k (mods lower value 99% of the time, not add)
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:56 PM
  #36  
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Thumbs down Iroc

From what I read, a little rust, as most of our cars this old
have somewhere.

It really all depends what his ultimate goal for the car
is!

As to the 2 bolt 4 bolt, am an ex engine builder and still
dabble in it and not going to get into that issue.

If he wants to restore it to Hemmings #1 Concourse car,
Money and time wise not feasable and definately not worth
it.

All I'm saying if he buys a 2k or 3k car and wants to go to where that car is, he's going to find out what 20k invested
means. Not counting the car or labor.
The one thing that (I would look at), is no SFCs mentioned and tweaked
body, Especially T-Top car. Good horse and good traction on these cars
is a no no with out good bracing.
End of story
Later

Irocing
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:35 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Irocing
From what I read, a little rust, as most of our cars this old
have somewhere.

It really all depends what his ultimate goal for the car
is!

As to the 2 bolt 4 bolt, am an ex engine builder and still
dabble in it and not going to get into that issue.

If he wants to restore it to Hemmings #1 Concourse car,
Money and time wise not feasable and definately not worth
it.

All I'm saying if he buys a 2k or 3k car and wants to go to where that car is, he's going to find out what 20k invested
means. Not counting the car or labor.
The one thing that (I would look at), is no SFCs mentioned and tweaked
body, Especially T-Top car. Good horse and good traction on these cars
is a no no with out good bracing.
End of story
Later

Irocing
I just go off what all my machinist friends say (some build nothing but race engines) I have looked a t a few 3rd gens with no rust, wheel lip rust is the hardest to repair correctly. Building any car even one with an engine that's done will cost 20K easy (been there done that more than once) the 3rd gen cars are still considered just used cars, they have no market outside a few enthusiasts. There is a nice one just down teh road from me that I am going to look at tomorrow (not crazy about teh color being white, but it looks good from teh quick look at dusk)
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:03 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by archemedes
(over about 600 hp they are actually worse since they crack at the bolt holes)
um...ok , hope we're talking about 400 blocks and theyre worse under any power level than the 2 bolts. Standard 4 bolt, mine was a 2 bolt but is now a splayed 4 bolt. If you're talking about a 350 4 bolts are the way to go under any power level, even if its not needed a 4 bolt is NOT weaker under any power level.
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:24 PM
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I know a bunch of machinists who drag race who will not run a 4 bolt block because of the cracking (they all say if making real power if you don't go with splayed you wasted every dime you put into the motor)
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by archemedes
I know a bunch of machinists who drag race who will not run a 4 bolt block because of the cracking (they all say if making real power if you don't go with splayed you wasted every dime you put into the motor)
Names and address's so I don't go to them
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JesasaurusRex
Names and address's so I don't go to them
well one of them happens to run in the 7's regularly (I trust him since he has not done a rebuild on his motor in a year) 4 bolt mains sound really good to bench racers, but are worthless when in practical use (kind of like dyno numbers)
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:54 AM
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k guys this threads over lol
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:54 AM
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by archemedes
4 bolt mains sound really good to bench racers, but are worthless when in practical use (kind of like dyno numbers)
And also kind of like people who talk about what their friends car does
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Old 11-04-2006, 02:43 AM
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if I had any money mine would too
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