Need help with gears
#16
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Just updating this. I decided not to buy the spacer since I "race" my car and I need everything to be as strong as I can get haha. I bought gears for a 2 series carrier.
98CamaroZ28 switching from 342s to 373s would not be worth it unless u have to get new gears or had more mods.. catback or SFCs would be decent
98CamaroZ28 switching from 342s to 373s would not be worth it unless u have to get new gears or had more mods.. catback or SFCs would be decent
#17
Did you look into getting a c-clip eliminator for your rear-end while you are in there?
I luckily never broke my rear-end but with gobs of power and street tires it never got enough traction to break.
Best of luck with the 10-bolt. If you are racing at the track and are running anything under 13 I would start the piggy bank for either a 12 or 9 rear.
I luckily never broke my rear-end but with gobs of power and street tires it never got enough traction to break.
Best of luck with the 10-bolt. If you are racing at the track and are running anything under 13 I would start the piggy bank for either a 12 or 9 rear.
#18
Originally Posted by FORCE_FED_Z
Did you look into getting a c-clip eliminator for your rear-end while you are in there?
I luckily never broke my rear-end but with gobs of power and street tires it never got enough traction to break.
Best of luck with the 10-bolt. If you are racing at the track and are running anything under 13 I would start the piggy bank for either a 12 or 9 rear.
I luckily never broke my rear-end but with gobs of power and street tires it never got enough traction to break.
Best of luck with the 10-bolt. If you are racing at the track and are running anything under 13 I would start the piggy bank for either a 12 or 9 rear.
Agreed.
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Papillion, NE
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Originally Posted by FORCE_FED_Z
Did you look into getting a c-clip eliminator for your rear-end while you are in there?
I luckily never broke my rear-end but with gobs of power and street tires it never got enough traction to break.
Best of luck with the 10-bolt. If you are racing at the track and are running anything under 13 I would start the piggy bank for either a 12 or 9 rear.
I luckily never broke my rear-end but with gobs of power and street tires it never got enough traction to break.
Best of luck with the 10-bolt. If you are racing at the track and are running anything under 13 I would start the piggy bank for either a 12 or 9 rear.
#20
c clip eliminator is to get rid of the dangerous device teh maufacturers use to hold the axles, it looks like a c and goes into teh end of the axle shaft in a groove machined for it, every gm axle since the early 50's has them and all ford and chrysler ones since the 80's have them (cheaper to rpoduce, and quicker to produce)
#21
If you saw the little piece of metal that acutally holds in your axles, you would probably think twice about road racing of blowing donuts. But if you are already putting in too much money at this point and are going keep in mind the weakness's of the 10 bolt I think you will be fine. Like I said, on street tires driving on the roads I doubt you would get enough traction to break the rear-end unless you deliberately set out to break it.
Like I said, my rear-end withstood over 500hp in front of it for quite a few miles, but only because I never went to the track. Keep your eye out on forums for either a group purchase or someone selling a rear. You might get lucky and get a smokin deal.
Like I said, my rear-end withstood over 500hp in front of it for quite a few miles, but only because I never went to the track. Keep your eye out on forums for either a group purchase or someone selling a rear. You might get lucky and get a smokin deal.
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