jayfrat

Ok first I'm gonna give you my specs.

94 Z28
LT1(Supposedly Corvette due to a motor swap)
A4 Tranny
Cold Air Intake
Edelbrock Headers
Hollowed-out Cat
Flowmaster Exhaust
Performance Pullies
Posi-Rear End

My car runs 13s, now here are my questions

1. Is there anyway to determine that I do infact have a Corvette motor besides the fin on the throttle body and the 4-bolt main. IE Engine ID number or something.

2. I'm currently planning on a motor rebuild. I want my car to run 10s if possible with out Forced Induction. What pistons/cam/crank/rods/fuel injectors are recommended for this feat? I'm know I'm looking at 383 or 396 displacement for this. If its possble with out forced induction, in motor parts I want to spend about $2000 with out the machine work if its a little over thats ok.

3. Is there an online walkthrough on how to change differential gears from (I'm pretty sure I have 3.23 gears), to 3.73 gears.

I'm leaning towards the 383 displacement due to I want some drive-ability incase I want to drive it to work on a nice week or even a weekend drive.

Thanks
-Jay Frat

archemedes

you can check the vin number that is on the block, the blocks are the same as camaro ones, the only difference really is induction, and cam. Running 10's is going to cost you a bit more than $2000 you need a good forged crank, new heads, and a pretty radical cam

Sinister95Z

Just the heads and cam package to run 10's is going to cost you about 2K. We have a sponsor that will answer all your questions and will get you a really good start. http://www.victoryracingengines.com/

mpe331lx

Even with a heads and cam package that will make ten second power, you will have to spend A LOT more money on the rest of the drive train and supporting mods.

For you to run tens N/A, you would have to do some weight reduction and have a pretty radical heads and cam package (more than likely a custom solid roller). Then you have to get ALL of that power to the ground.
Here are a few things that you wiil need to run the number N/A:
Built Trans
4000+ stall
Slicks and skinnies
Built 12 bolt or 9"rear
4.10-4.56 gaers
Drag struts and shocks
Lcas
Subframe connectors

A more reasonable buildup would be one that makes 380-420 hp to the tires,
Lloyd Elliot and Advanced induction both have excelent heads and cam packages that will get you into the 11s N/A (also with the right suppoting mods) and be very streetable.

You can keep a mild gear (3.73-4.10) and a converter that you could live with daily driving on the street (2800-3600).
The 10 bolt is still questonable, but will have a chance living behind your auto.

If you feel the need for more power you could always spray a 150 to get it deep into the 10s.

Is the $2000 budget for just the short block (and injectors), or the entire engine buildup?

If its for the entire buildup, keep saving, it will cost much more than that.
You can get a nice rotating assembly for 1200-1800.
Any of the kits with JE, ross, SRP, mahle pistons, forged H beam rods, and a Scat forged crank (The cast crank is good to about 600 hp if the RPMs are kept within the 6500 range)

If you can afford it Callies makes one of the best cranks out there, but then your getting into a whole new price range.

As for injectors, look into 30 or 42 lb FRPP's (yes ford injectors lol). They range in price from 230-350 depending on the vendor, so shop around.

jayfrat

No, I'm talking about roughly $2,000 for strictly motor parts, as in crank, cam, heads, pistons, etc. If it goes over a little bit, not a big deal. If its low 11s and not 10s, not a big deal. Just want to know who makes the crank, cam, heads I need to do it.

Fuel injects and other stuff like that I have on a seperate budget, so I'm not worried about money with those.

FORCE_FED_Z

I will tell you this-

I will have at least 2 grand in machine work alone with my block. I bought mid-line internals and have over 2 grand in just the crank, rods and pistons.

Heads to run that fast N/A are going to be at the very least another 2 grand. Figure another $500 to get your intake ported and another couple hundred for a good custom ground cam.

So just there alone you have well over 7 grand in parts for the long block to get started. Figure easily another 2 grand in getting externals, ignition, fuel etc.. situated.

A lot of people fail to realize how much is costs to go fast, esp when you are trying to do it N/A. And like was said earlier, at this point you are making the power, but aren't close to being able to get it to the ground. Ever notice all the really fast cars are listed as having $35,000+ invested? It all racks up quick when you try to go fast...

mpe331lx

Yes it does:banghead:

aarontracy

if you find a way to go 10's on motor for $2000 please let me know... n20 is the cheapest way to go fast but you already ruled that out.

you have got to think ahead on this.. if you ever were to make that much power your gonna need a new rear end cause a 10bolt isnt gonna cut it so you might spend another 1k on a good 9inch. a stock 4l60e will never handle that much power either (im on my 4th) so you are gonna need another 1k-1500 on a good trans and converter... also what are your intentions with this car, do you plan on strictly racing it, or maybe cruising it through town every once in a while?

personally i dont have near the money in my car that forcefed and some of the others have, or the experience that they have.. but ive got about 5k worth of work which doesnt include the 3 tranny rebuilds and my car is probably a high 12 car on motor maybe low 13