Track Question
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: La Crosse, WI / Minneapolis, MN
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Track Question
Well I think this saturday I may go to the track for the first time with my car. I have never done a pass down a track before so I would like some pointers.
Well I have an auto for those who don't know.
I am curious how I should take off and how long of a burnout and such.
When I floor it from a stop rightnow I don't get much traction for a little bit. Do I ease on the throttle when doing a pass? Or would just going ***** to the wall work better?
As for the burnout do I just put my foot on the brakes and floor it till some smoke comes? I have yet to do a brakestand in my car haha. I have only burned out flooring it from a stop.
Thanks
Well I have an auto for those who don't know.
I am curious how I should take off and how long of a burnout and such.
When I floor it from a stop rightnow I don't get much traction for a little bit. Do I ease on the throttle when doing a pass? Or would just going ***** to the wall work better?
As for the burnout do I just put my foot on the brakes and floor it till some smoke comes? I have yet to do a brakestand in my car haha. I have only burned out flooring it from a stop.
Thanks
#2
go out and practice your launches/brake torques in an empty parking lot. you dont need to floor it to spin the tires. and you dont have to hold the brakes down all the way to the floor either. learning how to brake torque cant be taught overnight, go out and practice.
btw what kinda mods do you have on your car. any suspension mods?
if you are runnin a non performance tire (street tires) there is really no need to warm them up. as far as going down the track, there are things we can tell you and there are things you just have to do to learn.
btw what kinda mods do you have on your car. any suspension mods?
if you are runnin a non performance tire (street tires) there is really no need to warm them up. as far as going down the track, there are things we can tell you and there are things you just have to do to learn.
#3
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Originally Posted by Greg Norris
go out and practice your launches/brake torques in an empty parking lot. you dont need to floor it to spin the tires. and you dont have to hold the brakes down all the way to the floor either. learning how to brake torque cant be taught overnight, go out and practice.
btw what kinda mods do you have on your car. any suspension mods?
if you are runnin a non performance tire (street tires) there is really no need to warm them up. as far as going down the track, there are things we can tell you and there are things you just have to do to learn.
btw what kinda mods do you have on your car. any suspension mods?
if you are runnin a non performance tire (street tires) there is really no need to warm them up. as far as going down the track, there are things we can tell you and there are things you just have to do to learn.
And the list of mods can be found here www.fquick.com/Adric
#4
its a brakestand. And parking lots arent going to help for your launches... street and strip are two different surfaces. You can practice, but it def wont be the same obviously. To warm up the tires, you will hold the brake and press the gas... Youll have to find the center where you dont have to hold the brakes all the way down, and wont have to mash the gas. I dont think you have to warm up the tires that long, maybe like 5 seconds.
Maybe if youd come over, we could find a parking lot like I want to and record dumb ****.
Maybe if youd come over, we could find a parking lot like I want to and record dumb ****.
#6
adric if i remember correctly, your running the GSd3's ya? if so, then they are obviously a street tire. your gonna be pissing and moaning when your car is slow as a dog and you cant figure out how to launch it cause like paar said, its totally different. you can practice for weeks on the street or in a parking lot, then BAM, you will need to relearn the track. with those goodyears, just stomp the throttle after you go around the waterbox, let them spin for a second or 2. just to clean them off, get any dirt/dust/rocks off them and then go. i would just launch off the footbrake, you will need to get used to it. hold the brakes down with left foot and accelerate to get the RPMs up a bit, but dont let the car start rolling outa the staging lights. talk to people there and youll learn a lot.
#7
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Okay thanks guys. So Matt.. I drive around the waterbox then floor it to knock **** loose... then I stage and hold my brake and press the throttle a little to get the rpms up right?
#11
Just go to the track and **** around, its the best way to learn by just doing it. I agree with the left foot on the brake right revvin it up a bit to get the RPM's up for the launch. If you have a stall it will be a lot easier. My car is a beast on launches with the 3600 stall w/ lockup.
#13
Like everyone has already said, being mostly stock there is no need for the wetbox- just drive around then back up to where just the surface slightly wet from other people driving thru. Spin them for maybe 1-2 seconds, just enough to clean them off.
The other thing that I haven't seen anyone mention is keep the car in drive- don't try and shift it yourself- in fact maybe and try and let off for just a second to let the car shift. Being that you have a TPI your powerband is lower than your redline. Running the car to redline isn't going to gain you anything.
The biggest thing is just play around with launches and shifting to see if you can better your times. Also- as far as trying anything to gain more power I would just leave the car the way it is. I personally was on the dyno with a friend of mine's 350 TPI, didn't gain anything by removing the air filter or ducts or anything as far as the air intake system is concerned.
The other thing that I haven't seen anyone mention is keep the car in drive- don't try and shift it yourself- in fact maybe and try and let off for just a second to let the car shift. Being that you have a TPI your powerband is lower than your redline. Running the car to redline isn't going to gain you anything.
The biggest thing is just play around with launches and shifting to see if you can better your times. Also- as far as trying anything to gain more power I would just leave the car the way it is. I personally was on the dyno with a friend of mine's 350 TPI, didn't gain anything by removing the air filter or ducts or anything as far as the air intake system is concerned.
#14
For everyone not looking at mods:
Performance:
383 ci – originally a L98 TPI 350. Longblock
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
Induction, fuel and engine management.
• Holley Stealth Ram intake – Ported to match AFR heads.
• Holley 1000 CFM Billet Throttle Body
• 4” custom built cold air kit w/ 1000 cfm K&N filter
• Venom 30 lb/hr injectors
• Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
• Accel DFI VI engine management system.
• Holley in-tank 255 lph fuel pump.
Ignition
• Accel 8mm wires
• Mallory Hi-Fire VI
• MSD Blaster HVC II coil
• NGK V power plugs
Exhaust
• Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4” Full length headers.
• Mufflex 3” dual to 4” single Y Pipe. Mufflex 4” exhaust w/ Edelbrock Victor 4” race muffler.
Suspension/Chassis:
• Eibach Sportline Springs / KYB struts and shocks
• Random Technologies adjustable torque arm
• Random Technologies tubular control arms w/ relocation brackets welded in.
• Adjustable tubular panhard bar.
Tires
• Eagle F1 GSD3s
Drivetrain:
Transmission
• 700 Raptor level 3 transmission with Extreme Duty Torque Drive Package, Extreme Duty Shell / Bearing Assembly, and Extreme Duty reaction carrier shaft with bearings
• Raptor 2600 stall
• Fan powered 6 pass transmission cooler mounted behind front fascia.
Rearend
• Custom built 4” steel Driveshaft – high speed balanced.
• Currie ford style 9” rear with 31 spline axles / 3.70 gear ratio. 1LE PBR calipers rear disk brakes.
Performance:
383 ci – originally a L98 TPI 350. Longblock
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
Induction, fuel and engine management.
• Holley Stealth Ram intake – Ported to match AFR heads.
• Holley 1000 CFM Billet Throttle Body
• 4” custom built cold air kit w/ 1000 cfm K&N filter
• Venom 30 lb/hr injectors
• Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
• Accel DFI VI engine management system.
• Holley in-tank 255 lph fuel pump.
Ignition
• Accel 8mm wires
• Mallory Hi-Fire VI
• MSD Blaster HVC II coil
• NGK V power plugs
Exhaust
• Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4” Full length headers.
• Mufflex 3” dual to 4” single Y Pipe. Mufflex 4” exhaust w/ Edelbrock Victor 4” race muffler.
Suspension/Chassis:
• Eibach Sportline Springs / KYB struts and shocks
• Random Technologies adjustable torque arm
• Random Technologies tubular control arms w/ relocation brackets welded in.
• Adjustable tubular panhard bar.
Tires
• Eagle F1 GSD3s
Drivetrain:
Transmission
• 700 Raptor level 3 transmission with Extreme Duty Torque Drive Package, Extreme Duty Shell / Bearing Assembly, and Extreme Duty reaction carrier shaft with bearings
• Raptor 2600 stall
• Fan powered 6 pass transmission cooler mounted behind front fascia.
Rearend
• Custom built 4” steel Driveshaft – high speed balanced.
• Currie ford style 9” rear with 31 spline axles / 3.70 gear ratio. 1LE PBR calipers rear disk brakes.