MKIII supra slow!
 

My car is ****en slow! ****EN N/A AUTO!!!, i need to swap in the 7mgte with a r154. I think my moms accord is faster...

It looks nice though...

yeh it does, its mint ... but slow. It would be perfect for a swap

**** the 7MGTE.
LS1 in there fits perfectly.







j/k
in all seriousness, do try to put a LS1 in there, if not, then the 7MGTE is perfect, I would suggest a 2JZ, but those things are to damn expensive, and require more modifications to fit it in there. the GTE just slips there like a perfectly fitted glove.

:thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow :thumbsdow

2JZ is cheaper than an LS1, and it is cheaper to swap it in.

$1000 including longblock with trans.
You have to massage the firewall slightly to make it fit with the stock twins (which are good to 450whp) or throw on a single T4 setup.

If you really want to turbo your n/a PM me and add me to msn. It is pretty straight forward to do.

why would i put in a 2jz or ls1, the supra needs only one motor the 7m-gte. 7m-gte is reliable to, jus those idiots that blow em up dont tune properly or decide to use 20 year old oil pumps on a fresh motor.

hmm, I'm wondering if I should just turbo the ge or swap the block.

just swap engines man, it will be much simpler then trying to turbo the N/A.
Just make sure you change the head gasket and your good to go.

Why?

The heads are the same

The blocks are the same except for oil squirters and the pistons. The extra CR will help with off boost power.

Since the block/head will have to be opened up and stripped to do the maching work for a metal head gasket, oil squirters could be installed then.

:dunno:

LMFAO, I see he's spraying Nas too :lol_hitti :lol_hitti

I supose you could do that, but it just seems like more work to source a turbo, with the Downpipe and the intake, and the oil/coolent lines, and then get the oil squirters and get someone to put them in, and tap the block for the oil lines, and figure something out for the coolant lines. and what about the ECU will the N/A ecu take care of the turbo? And I would be worried running a higher CR on the otherwise stock engine. He dosen't have to have it machined down, if he just gets a 7MGTE and swaps in a metal headgasket, I'm sure it would be fine.

What are you talking about?

Alot of JDM engines you find don't come with the turbo anyways, so chances are one would need to be sourced, and even then it probably has shaft play and will need a rebuild. The oil/coolant lines come with the turbo and are bolt on to either block. No drilling needed just remove the block off plates/plugs on the n/a block. The oil squirters will bolt right in too. Both blocks are from the same casting. Same goes for the oil cooler, both engines use the same oil pan so just remove the plug in the pan for the oil cooler drain. An oil filter mount from a turbo block will be needed, or just buy a relocation kit for about the same as the turbo mount will cost anyways.

Who puts the effort into swapping in a turbo setup and keeping the stock downpipe/exhaust and air intake system? Yikes. That is extremly restrictive and should be the first two things to get upgraded.

Again, the ECU usually doesn't come with the engine so one will have to be sources anyways, especially since he wants to swap to the 5 speed trans anyways.

The CR is hardly higher, turbo block is approximately 8.4:1 and the n/a block is approximately 9.1:1. If staying on the stock turbo that is nothing to be worried about, run 94 octane gas like you are supposed to and everything will be fine. Hell, my engine is around 9.0:1 according to the compression #'s per cylinder and I have never had a problem. It makes the car much more responsive.

And trust me, the head will 100% HAVE to be machined in order to use a metal headgasket. 100% certain. The head is aluminum and pitts/warps very easily, especially from the high heat cycles these engines go through, especially the turbo ones. The block is cast iron so it is harder, but chances are 8/10 blocks need to be resurfaced because of pitting too. Can't forget the ARP headstuds/bolts.

Please refrain from giving the guy incorrect information.

That won't be cheap... he'll spend less money buying an actual 7MGTE rather then turbocharging the NA and machining the block to match the turbo block.

Like what? They are the same blocks!

Then why did you say...

If they're the same, then they don't need machine work. To me, adding oil squirters requires machine work because it means the oil galley haven't been tapped for the squirters. Clarify yo' self son!

I did clarify myself.

Machine work is needed to install a metal headgasket.

Now what surfaces would you machine if I was refering to a headgasket fred? I did not say machining holes for the oil squirters.

What the **** is a headgasket... you forget what I'm driving...

And don't test me, or I'll record the phone conversation next time you call me for help. :smokin:

Ok, if it's true there are only block off plates on the block and on the oil pan, then your right it might be simpler to get a turbo. If the oil squirters are a simple and no tapping is needed, then maybe it would be better to just turbo the N/A, and the CR is fine, you right.
BUT how is all of that simpler then just putting a 7MGTE in there? and even if it is somehow a little simpler, how is my advise wrong? If It was me, I would get a complet 7MGTE and sell the N/A and go from there. But to each their own.

Your advice is wrong about saying there will be no machining work needed to put in the metal headgasket.

I suggested turbo'ing the N/A block as I know the guy is looking to spend the least amount of money as needed. No point in blowing $700+ on a GTE block, especially when nobody would buy a high milleage N/A block, and if they did it would be $150 or something. The oil squirters you could get for free from someone like myself (if i even still have old ones, I probably threw them out).

The PROPPER way would be to strip down the block and have it inspected and a full bottom end rebuild. As well as inspecting and replacing all the seals in the head. But for that cost, you are better off throwing in a tried and tested bullet proof 2jz.

^Wow, you seem to know so much. If only you applied any of that knowledge to your own car, it might actually RUN!!!!

It does.:la:

^By run I mean move under it's own power.

If what you're saying is true, then what are you doing typing on a forum? Shouldn't you be slaying Hayabusas on the 407?

It does.

This is not supra weather. :nono:

Give me $1500 to buy tires and we can make something happen.

Yeah the plow hasn't arrived yet and theres no snow to be cleared away...

Hahaha "Stay off the highways" circa 2004

No weather is supra weather.... apparently.

You need $1500 tires to race from a roll nowadays? I guess when you're making ashpalt shredding HP like yourself, no average R compound will suffice @ 55MPH rolls.

you price out 295/40/17 X2 and 245/40/17 X2 tires.

Quality tires, like yokohoma AVS.

And then a set of DR's.

Mr. $30/hour.

you guys have pics of these supras? I want to see em:smilie_da

HAHAHA, 1500 bucks for tires???
If these swaps are so easy has it been 4 years since your car has been out and about running daily. I heard you blab about running 11's years ago, and still nothing.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a151/7180/k1.jpg

^^ Not mine, but similar to what i'm aiming for.

I am possitive your mustang has had more down time than my supra. :smokin:

And you blabing about 9's.

But yes I admit I said a lot of stupid things. I was new and young.


Ron's car is beautiful.

ACTUALLY, no, it hasnt had as much downtime as yours, number 2 mine isnt hack, number three, running nines and running 11's is a big difference, number three, my car is running. and im not on here telling other people how easy and cheap it is to build a fast car. Ill be the first to admit it takes time to build something like that, and I give credit to everyone that has a project, my project was by no means cheap, however you claim yours is, yet you still can finish your own.

shut the **** up.

You dont know a thing about my car...

Nothing in this thread is about my car (aside from tires). The "cheapness" is trying to help someone that I know doesn't have the coin to do it properly (thread starter). I by no means who do what I am suggesting him to do to my own car...

MY car is done 100% properly. Hack? Get the **** outa here. There are four reasons my car has taken so long:

1. It is a full body restoration, not just an engine/turbo setup.
2. I don't have access to a garage so the car only gets touched weather permitting.
3. I have been a student up until august working part time. It is hard to get the funds together to blow on a properly built car. It could have been done along time ago if I cheaped out *cough* supra mark *cough*.
4. I do EVERYTHING myself, from welding to paint to fuel system to audio to suspension, ect.

My car was down for ONE year while I built a T4 setup in my old car. It ran.

My new car has now been done about a year doing a complete restoration (not easy in the weather) and whole new setup.

You always talk a big game on the net and don't talk at all in person...


:nono:

HAHAH, its so easy to get you guys going, thats the entertaining thing. I could care less, what you do, I dont talk in person probaly because Ive never met you. well, if you get your busa slayer running, let me know, we can go whenever your ready, Now i know why big mark gets such a kick out of it, you supra guys are to easy.

I have met you a few times...

So let me get this straight, for you to actually have your car out, you NEED these tires and these ones alone. No other tires can be used to race from a roll?

So you need a pair of tires on top of the other 4? When you said full body restoration, you neglected to say you were adding another axle onto it.

I'm not paid by the hour, but, if you want to be like that then yeah.... It would actually amount to a little bit more than that if you were to do the math. But that kind of money is chump change nowadays. I still drive shitboxes!!!

You are confusing me with someone else who owns a supra and can't drive.

Race from a roll? What the **** is that?

Whenever your triaxle supra is ready, let us know.

Very entertaining, where to start...

1. Get a GTE block, it'll safe yourself trouble. Usually they DO come with a turbo. If you pay 400 for it, probably not, if you pay 600+ it probably will.
2. Adam, your car doesn't run and hasn't ran since we had the maf-t on it for 5 minutes.
3. Todd, your mustang was down longer than any supra at this point.
4. Again Todd, you pay a shop to do your . Some of us don't spend every last cent of our paycheck for someone else to do the job for us.
5. Mark, you of all people know that supra owners go from a dig as well.
6. My car will probably run this coming year, but is going to outlast all of yours for off-the-road time and I don't give a ****. :biggrin:

ACTUALLY, my car was never in a shop, I did it all in my driveway too. I had a buddy tig weld the intercooler piping, and I did the rear end and motor at a shop, but I was the one doing it, I didnt pay anyone for labour, And yes, my car took a little longer, I took my time and enjoyed building it, You guys take 3 years to build a 12 second car, takes me 3 to build a 9 second car, big difference.

Same old same old.

Just keep on keepin on.