What is with the J bodys and other Slow Sh*t???
#33
Originally Posted by rabbitman
We drive what we want. I drive VW's because it's what I owned as a first car, and I'm on my 8th, 9th, and 10th ones right now. Granted, if I could afford it, I'd have a GNX, or even just a Regal turbo. The GN is just a black rebadged 3.8l turbo Regal.
Also, for a lot of us, it's also an issue of how far we have to commute. If we make 35,000 a year, (just a number picked out of the air), and have to commute an hour each day, chances are, we're not going to have a ZR1, Z06, or any other "performance" car. We are going to buy a 4 cyl, then when we get tired of having 100 hp, maybe, we'll swap in a motor, turbo it, intercooler, etc, and then for those of us who know what we're doing, we'll go to the track and run 12's. There's lots of 12 sec 4 cyl cars out there. Hell, some guys are running 9's on 4 cyl Hondas.
Now before you go of saying I'm bashing GN's, or any engine bigger than 4 cyl, I grew up with parents who rallied. We owned several turbo Volvo's, none of them stock, and I had posters of GN's, and GNX's, the turbo T bird, and even on of the Firebird 3.8l turbo. I have only owned one V8 car, loved it, but glad I don't have it now, with gas being 90 cents/liter.
Also, for a lot of us, it's also an issue of how far we have to commute. If we make 35,000 a year, (just a number picked out of the air), and have to commute an hour each day, chances are, we're not going to have a ZR1, Z06, or any other "performance" car. We are going to buy a 4 cyl, then when we get tired of having 100 hp, maybe, we'll swap in a motor, turbo it, intercooler, etc, and then for those of us who know what we're doing, we'll go to the track and run 12's. There's lots of 12 sec 4 cyl cars out there. Hell, some guys are running 9's on 4 cyl Hondas.
Now before you go of saying I'm bashing GN's, or any engine bigger than 4 cyl, I grew up with parents who rallied. We owned several turbo Volvo's, none of them stock, and I had posters of GN's, and GNX's, the turbo T bird, and even on of the Firebird 3.8l turbo. I have only owned one V8 car, loved it, but glad I don't have it now, with gas being 90 cents/liter.
Fuel is quite expensive as I do have to run Ultra 94 to safely run 16 lbs of boost without alky... those who say it's not needed don't know Turbo Buicks... and believe it or not if I keep my foot out of it I get decent mileage
I also get a lot of attention From the police, I bought this car in 2004 and I've been pulled over around 8 times..
Did you say your VW runs 12? how much work did that take?
#34
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Originally Posted by BadAssGN
I can see your point through most of that.. I've seen a few fast imports and they are a treat to watch... traction issues the whole way... and still run 10
Fuel is quite expensive as I do have to run Ultra 94 to safely run 16 lbs of boost without alky... those who say it's not needed don't know Turbo Buicks... and believe it or not if I keep my foot out of it I get decent mileage
I also get a lot of attention From the police, I bought this car in 2004 and I've been pulled over around 8 times..
Did you say your VW runs 12? how much work did that take?
Fuel is quite expensive as I do have to run Ultra 94 to safely run 16 lbs of boost without alky... those who say it's not needed don't know Turbo Buicks... and believe it or not if I keep my foot out of it I get decent mileage
I also get a lot of attention From the police, I bought this car in 2004 and I've been pulled over around 8 times..
Did you say your VW runs 12? how much work did that take?
Yeah, there's one thing the GN's did was be a reasonable street car. As for alky, well, if you street race the car, it'd be the way to go, but what I would do, is have a chip, but keep it in the glove box, and on the way to the track, pick up some C16, and then when you're sitting waiting, throw the chip in, and you're good to go. But, if you're racing on the street more than at the track, you might be better off with the alky. Better to have the alky, and 94, than to get caught running C16 on the street.
#35
Originally Posted by rabbitman
My old rabbit ran 12's, and it took a lot of work to get it there. I'd guess around $7000 for the motor by the time it was done. I'm working on another one right now, hopefully done by may. Only thing holding me up is we are expecting our second baby, and there's a lot of things that are neccesity, like me having a 4 door car. Sooo, I'm now building a 4 door diesel rabbit, at the same time I'm working on my GTI, I'm trying to find a diesel motor to go into my 4 door.
Yeah, there's one thing the GN's did was be a reasonable street car. As for alky, well, if you street race the car, it'd be the way to go, but what I would do, is have a chip, but keep it in the glove box, and on the way to the track, pick up some C16, and then when you're sitting waiting, throw the chip in, and you're good to go. But, if you're racing on the street more than at the track, you might be better off with the alky. Better to have the alky, and 94, than to get caught running C16 on the street.
Yeah, there's one thing the GN's did was be a reasonable street car. As for alky, well, if you street race the car, it'd be the way to go, but what I would do, is have a chip, but keep it in the glove box, and on the way to the track, pick up some C16, and then when you're sitting waiting, throw the chip in, and you're good to go. But, if you're racing on the street more than at the track, you might be better off with the alky. Better to have the alky, and 94, than to get caught running C16 on the street.
The technology of chips for these cars is way better than when they fist started modifing them.
I use turbotweak chips and the fuel settings at WOT are adjustable
as for the race fuel.. yeah C16 is waybetter in my combo at higher boost levels but the Environmental enforcement cars keep pulling over anything that looks fast...
so alky on the street is what it is...
I still make good power at 21lbs
I also see Mickey thompson is now offering their Drag Radial in a 255/60/15
so they will fit my stock rims...
Hey, since your a VW guy, whats the secret to getting a 1.8L in a 94 golf to pass Emmissions? it's a PITA.. I'm thinking the timing is out but I can't find specs anywhere
Thanks
#36
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Originally Posted by BadAssGN
Hey, since your a VW guy, whats the secret to getting a 1.8L in a 94 golf to pass Emmissions? it's a PITA.. I'm thinking the timing is out but I can't find specs anywhere
Thanks
Thanks
#37
NO is out by a bit, like 30 points....
Car runs good, pulls like a 4 banger.... hwy speed is fine. idle is good
Just NO is high... New cat in 2004
What are the Timing Specs... I can't find much info on this thing...
Thanks
Car runs good, pulls like a 4 banger.... hwy speed is fine. idle is good
Just NO is high... New cat in 2004
What are the Timing Specs... I can't find much info on this thing...
Thanks
#38
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Pull the upper timing belt cover off. 2 10 mm bolts. Turn the crank, it's a 19mm, until the lower timing mark is PERFECTLY lined up with the mark on the lower timing belt cover. Then have a look at the cam pulley mark. If it's off at all, there's the problem. Pull the belt, and realign. If the marks are right on, then what's the idle speed? If the idle speed is anything over about 800 rpm, turn the distributor back, until it reaches there. That should work. I think it's about 12 degrees. I haven't looked at the factory specs in years. I tune mine by ear.
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