What will it take to get my vert into the 11
12-20-2006, 01:40 AM
#3
Junior GTcars Poster
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 287
Rep Power: 646 
Look into exhaust and intake first of all.
you will likely need to change the cam out, but you shouldn't need a huge lumpy stick, just go mild. Port match the heads and I don't condone it, but perhaps a shot of happy gas.......oh yea, don't forget to upgrade plugs, wires cap and rotor and coil.....the key to lots of power is igniting all the fuel and air you dump into the combustion chamber. The stock upper and lower intake don't flow too bad but there's cheap alternatives to them too.
Infact, Trickflow makes an entire kit for the 5.0 that includes new heads, upper and lower intake, cam, valve covers and some other stuff too that I can't exactly remember and it's only around 23-2400 bucks US.
After that, I'd mostly focus on suspension. You'll never run any respectable number if you're spinning for the first 300 feet. Sticky rubber like Nitto 555R's work REAL good I was really impressed with them, stiff springs and ladder bars will likely be required too.
I don't really care for convertibles so I don't know what kind of torque they can handle but you may seriously want to consider bracing the body.
Anyway, I know it sounds like a lot but it's not and that's the kind of stuff I'd start with if I were building my own car...(which I'm not yet
)
you will likely need to change the cam out, but you shouldn't need a huge lumpy stick, just go mild. Port match the heads and I don't condone it, but perhaps a shot of happy gas.......oh yea, don't forget to upgrade plugs, wires cap and rotor and coil.....the key to lots of power is igniting all the fuel and air you dump into the combustion chamber. The stock upper and lower intake don't flow too bad but there's cheap alternatives to them too.
Infact, Trickflow makes an entire kit for the 5.0 that includes new heads, upper and lower intake, cam, valve covers and some other stuff too that I can't exactly remember and it's only around 23-2400 bucks US.
After that, I'd mostly focus on suspension. You'll never run any respectable number if you're spinning for the first 300 feet. Sticky rubber like Nitto 555R's work REAL good I was really impressed with them, stiff springs and ladder bars will likely be required too.
I don't really care for convertibles so I don't know what kind of torque they can handle but you may seriously want to consider bracing the body.
Anyway, I know it sounds like a lot but it's not and that's the kind of stuff I'd start with if I were building my own car...(which I'm not yet
)
12-20-2006, 08:34 AM
#4
Average GTcars Poster
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Waterloo/Mississauga
Posts: 491
Rep Power: 711 Since its a vert there is more weight to deal with. I agree with Nick start off with gears first. You will need a good drag suspension too. I think your either gonna need more motor (ie heads and cam)
12-20-2006, 04:18 PM
#5
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 4
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look into alot of bracing............being it a convertable
You will get into the 11's once, then it'll twist........from the power
start with a cage, and bracing......then suspension so you can hook hard.
Then moderate engine work, and you'll be there
Duro
You will get into the 11's once, then it'll twist........from the power
start with a cage, and bracing......then suspension so you can hook hard.
Then moderate engine work, and you'll be there
Duro
12-21-2006, 06:42 PM
#9
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oakville
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Your car is hadicapped in a way due to being a vert (weight and body flex etc)I run a 150 shot stock motor (94 5.0) with bolt on's 337 rwhp 450 ftlbs at the wheels.Good enough to break 11's but not in a 94 gt...LOL
12-21-2006, 11:52 PM
#10
Junior GTcars Poster
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 287
Rep Power: 646
I'm DEAD against nitrous.
I hate that crap, it's cheating imo, not to mention dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. If you only want 20K out of your motor, then by all means use it....if you'd like to keep your motor for a while I'd stay away from it, and when my car is built I won't use it.
If you can't do what you want with your car without the use of nitrous, you're doing something wrong.
PS if a 150 shot won't get you into the 11's on stock motor in a coupe or fastback(hatchback) then you should try some internal engine work. NOS is definatly not the end-all of the power problems.
I've never built a car with nitrous....never had the need. I'd rather spend the money to have a bullit proof longblock than have a rather nasty shot of laughing gas like a 150, on a stock motor....money well spent imo.
I hate that crap, it's cheating imo, not to mention dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. If you only want 20K out of your motor, then by all means use it....if you'd like to keep your motor for a while I'd stay away from it, and when my car is built I won't use it.
If you can't do what you want with your car without the use of nitrous, you're doing something wrong.
PS if a 150 shot won't get you into the 11's on stock motor in a coupe or fastback(hatchback) then you should try some internal engine work. NOS is definatly not the end-all of the power problems.
I've never built a car with nitrous....never had the need. I'd rather spend the money to have a bullit proof longblock than have a rather nasty shot of laughing gas like a 150, on a stock motor....money well spent imo.
12-22-2006, 12:05 AM
#11
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oakville
Posts: 156
Rep Power: 643 I'm DEAD against nitrous.
I hate that crap, it's cheating imo, not to mention dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. If you only want 20K out of your motor, then by all means use it....if you'd like to keep your motor for a while I'd stay away from it, and when my car is built I won't use it.
If you can't do what you want with your car without the use of nitrous, you're doing something wrong.
PS if a 150 shot won't get you into the 11's on stock motor in a coupe or fastback(hatchback) then you should try some internal engine work. NOS is definatly not the end-all of the power problems.
I've never built a car with nitrous....never had the need. I'd rather spend the money to have a bullit proof longblock than have a rather nasty shot of laughing gas like a 150, on a stock motor....money well spent imo.
I hate that crap, it's cheating imo, not to mention dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. If you only want 20K out of your motor, then by all means use it....if you'd like to keep your motor for a while I'd stay away from it, and when my car is built I won't use it.
If you can't do what you want with your car without the use of nitrous, you're doing something wrong.
PS if a 150 shot won't get you into the 11's on stock motor in a coupe or fastback(hatchback) then you should try some internal engine work. NOS is definatly not the end-all of the power problems.
I've never built a car with nitrous....never had the need. I'd rather spend the money to have a bullit proof longblock than have a rather nasty shot of laughing gas like a 150, on a stock motor....money well spent imo.
Your intitled to your opinion...
12-22-2006, 12:37 AM
#13
~~ Hardcore Newb ~~
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oakville
Posts: 156
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Not sayin you were,since my 94 is a daily I installed a kit with warmer,msd,fuel pump etc.I set it up on a dyno with A/f it had 11.1 all the way,been through numerous bottles.If NOT used correctly you will have engine troubles.I am a blower guy myself (but used nos off and on over the years) and I just couldnt stand how slow the 94-5.0 is compared to a fox,so what the hell I sprayed it.A friend has a 94 (fox upper conversion)also with stock exuast has run a 12.30.
12-22-2006, 01:51 PM
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 287
Rep Power: 646
Lemme ask you this......Why, even in my area, Bowmanville/Oshawa/Whitby.....I have yet to see a 94-98 GT.....every 94-98 is a friggin v6.....I can dust the v6 stangs for about 200ft with my Cavalier with the 2.2L on 94 octane, I haven't seen a gt or Cobra EVER unless I go to Scarborough or Toronto
