Cam break-in
 

Arch you'd probably be able out help me out with this one...

few weeks ago i went and bought tons of rebuild goodies from autozone, including an oil change-worth of oil and a filter. when i got my cam i read the instructions and after i install my cam i have to change the oil, start it up and run it for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm, then change the oil again. so i realized i'd need another oil change-worth of oil and a filter, so i was considering just going out and getting the really cheap stuff since i'm only going to be using it for 30 minutes, but is this not smart since the break-in period is so critical?

It won't make much of a difference, however I would not want to run $0.50 autozone oil in my car no matter how long its in there...

Don't you have a hydraulic roller cam? Break in procedure is no where near as critical on those as it is on flat tappets. Just take it easy 4 a while and you'll be fine.

If your worried about it just go and get some Castrol 10w30 (or whatever weight you run) it is not the cheap stuff nor should you have to spend a lot of money on it either.

Werd

no it is a hydraulic flat tappet, thats why i was reluctant to use the cheap stuff, but yeah youre right josh no .50 crap.

I use quaker state 10w30 dyno oil, never castrol (I like my engine too much to run all the refineries in one bottle)wolfshead would even be fine, after about 500 miles do another oil change and switch to synthetic

no i dont wanna switch to synthetic. in the future i might do some forged pistons etc, and then i'd switch to synthetic. but this is just the top end rebuild so i dont wanna switch to synthetic now.

May I ask why, odds are I'm switching to Mobil 1 or Leading Edge synthetic on my next oil change, K&N oil filter too. :)

i've heard that on a high mileage engine switching to synthetic may cause leaks. makes sense too, cuz synthetic is thinner so bad seals will turn into horrible seals with synthetic.

Your right, in my case oil is so cheap that if my car does leak I will just drain it and toss some regular back into it. I just noticed today O'Reilly's sells VR1 racing oil that is a stright 50 weight :eek: I don't think any car will be leaking if their running that stuff. :lolsign:

Synthetic doesn't cause leaks but it will find them better.

An expensive leak dector basically. :lolsign:

synthetic is not thinner, viscocity is the flow rating 10w30 is 10w30 I switched on my bravada at 130,000 miles and it doesn't leak, the ones that do are ones that had minor leaks and alot of sludge build up that cleared out and opened up

by the way that has been proven false many many times (the leak causing stuff) it just keeps getting passed on because you get kids who buy a used car that was beat to death had 1 oil change in 100,000 miles add synthetic and it leaks like a sive