Cam break-in
03-28-2005, 03:06 AM
#1
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Cam break-in
Arch you'd probably be able out help me out with this one...
few weeks ago i went and bought tons of rebuild goodies from autozone, including an oil change-worth of oil and a filter. when i got my cam i read the instructions and after i install my cam i have to change the oil, start it up and run it for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm, then change the oil again. so i realized i'd need another oil change-worth of oil and a filter, so i was considering just going out and getting the really cheap stuff since i'm only going to be using it for 30 minutes, but is this not smart since the break-in period is so critical?
few weeks ago i went and bought tons of rebuild goodies from autozone, including an oil change-worth of oil and a filter. when i got my cam i read the instructions and after i install my cam i have to change the oil, start it up and run it for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm, then change the oil again. so i realized i'd need another oil change-worth of oil and a filter, so i was considering just going out and getting the really cheap stuff since i'm only going to be using it for 30 minutes, but is this not smart since the break-in period is so critical?
03-28-2005, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockford Fosgate Fan
If your worried about it just go and get some Castrol 10w30 (or whatever weight you run) it is not the cheap stuff nor should you have to spend a lot of money on it either.
03-28-2005, 07:37 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by JesasaurusRex
Don't you have a hydraulic roller cam? Break in procedure is no where near as critical on those as it is on flat tappets. Just take it easy 4 a while and you'll be fine.
03-28-2005, 08:16 PM
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I use quaker state 10w30 dyno oil, never castrol (I like my engine too much to run all the refineries in one bottle)wolfshead would even be fine, after about 500 miles do another oil change and switch to synthetic
03-28-2005, 09:30 PM
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no i dont wanna switch to synthetic. in the future i might do some forged pistons etc, and then i'd switch to synthetic. but this is just the top end rebuild so i dont wanna switch to synthetic now.
03-28-2005, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NoRiceInside
no i dont wanna switch to synthetic. in the future i might do some forged pistons etc, and then i'd switch to synthetic. but this is just the top end rebuild so i dont wanna switch to synthetic now.
03-28-2005, 09:45 PM
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i've heard that on a high mileage engine switching to synthetic may cause leaks. makes sense too, cuz synthetic is thinner so bad seals will turn into horrible seals with synthetic.
03-28-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NoRiceInside
i've heard that on a high mileage engine switching to synthetic may cause leaks. makes sense too, cuz synthetic is thinner so bad seals will turn into horrible seals with synthetic.
I don't think any car will be leaking if their running that stuff. 
03-28-2005, 10:02 PM
#12
Originally Posted by NoRiceInside
i've heard that on a high mileage engine switching to synthetic may cause leaks. makes sense too, cuz synthetic is thinner so bad seals will turn into horrible seals with synthetic.
Synthetic doesn't cause leaks but it will find them better.
03-28-2005, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NoRiceInside
i've heard that on a high mileage engine switching to synthetic may cause leaks. makes sense too, cuz synthetic is thinner so bad seals will turn into horrible seals with synthetic.
03-28-2005, 10:33 PM
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by the way that has been proven false many many times (the leak causing stuff) it just keeps getting passed on because you get kids who buy a used car that was beat to death had 1 oil change in 100,000 miles add synthetic and it leaks like a sive