Stang Seller

So, who is running a turbo on their car and what is your setup? I'm just curious to see who bought a kit or fabbed their own...... Speak up, and let's dream of some races in the springtime.
SS

rabbitman

iTrader: (3)

I've got a VR6 GTI, that is going to be a full race car, with turbo. Garret T04, full headers, with 3 inch exhaust.
I had a 1984 Rabbit LS with a 2l 16v with a Garret T03, and a GN intercooler. My new street project is a 1983 Rabbit GTI that I got from BC. It's going to get a 2l 16v with a td04 turbo. Just a nice quick little car to drive.

Stang Seller

Interesting.... I would love to get my hands on an 83-84 Rabbit GTI. I've been kinda-sorta looking for the last several years to find something with solid floors/decent body for dirt cheap. I wanted to build a mild 16v 1.8 and eventually slap a turbo on it.
I was part of a TV show this summer called War of The Wheels, it's been delayed but apparently is scheduled to go on air in January sometime. I was episode 4, and I believe episode 3 was Veedubs. One of their team members apparently had a Single Turbo VR6 Cabrio putting down about 570 wheel HP or so. Your car should boogie with the right fuel system and engine management. Any pics of the Rabbit?
SS

rabbitman

iTrader: (3)

I've got what was emailed to me, but they are kind of dark. I'll get some better ones when I get my custom plates on it next month. I'm going to do up a new sig with the car and my plates. If you're going to do a swap into a rabbit, don't waste your time on the 1.8l 16v. The 1.8l 8v is a way better engine for torque and driveability. If you're going to swap, go the extra mile and get a 2l 16v out of a passat or gti. The 2l has over 135 hp and 145 ftlbs stock. And that's before you remove the power steering, a/c. After that you get over 150 on both. That's an excellent start in a 1900 lb car.

jdmsteR

did you make your own manifold? i've been thinkin of a mk2 turbo 2L 16v setup, what kind of injectors? how much boost? dd?

Stang Seller

If you're handy with welding and creative with piping it wouldnt cost you much to build a DIY setup. There are several places that sell cheap cast iron turbo manifolds for T3 turbos. You can source a .48/.63 T3 turbo from a 2.3 Ford with built in wastegate for dirt cheap. Make your own downpipe and cold side piping. I dunno how Veedubs are for fuel systems and how the flap/air sensor reacts to all the extra volume, but if someone can help you with that aspect of it the rest is pretty simple. I also think it best to not intercool the setup, too pricey. Only reason I added an IC is because it was free . I'm sure with 7-8lbs of boost, good fuel system, and 3" exhaust you should see 60-80hp increase.
SS

2TONE_93GT

iTrader: (3)

at this stage of the game, after blowers, turbos and a few shops i can only recomend one guy, and he works out of his own shop. Amazing work, results to boot. No cutting corner like many other places.
I personallywouldnt go elsewhere now.

If you can weld, and your work is quality, by all means do it and save a ton!

Some of us arent fortunate with that trade skill......

NOTORIOUS VR

Actually the blue Cabrio was a stock swapped 1.8T with a bigger turbo and Revo tuning and was putting down over 300WHP.

It ran a best of 12.9 with an open diff and semi-slipping clutch. Which is really good for a Cabrio which is really heavy and has a lot of drag because of the roof.

The owner of the car is actually of the owners of SEM (Vdub shop).

rabbitman

iTrader: (3)

Nuespeed used to sell injectors. Various psi, and flow rates. I'll have to have a look at what I used. I did not make my own manifold, as I can't weld. At the track I ran up to 25 psi. The engine internals were not even close to stock, with a P and P'ed head, and bracing, and knifedgeing, and balancing done to the bottom end. I ran a 278/288 cam set. 2.5" exhaust with Hooker street performance muffler. I had a GN intercooler, and it's worth it to run an intercooler if you're over 10 psi of boost. I also had a windage tray, but I think that was just a weak moment with a Nuespeed catalog. I don't think it actually did anything. I also had the VW oil pan from Nuespeed, that has cooling fins.

jdmsteR

track car? was it actually 1900lb with full interior? or gutted? what about suspension?...thinkin of a cheap grassroots project..

rabbitman

iTrader: (3)

It had 4 race seats, with lightweight carpet, and no underliner. The car and engine was built to run IDRC super street, but they changed the rules on me. Nothing older than 1988. So I threw the 3 extra seats in it, and had the cage modded so people could get in the back. Then I drove it on the street for 4 years. It was pretty much undriveable in any weather other than a nice clear sunny, dry day. Any moisture, and I was better off walking. I beleive the actual weight was 1974 lbs. But that's what you get when you strip a Rabbit, and use light seats and no underliner.
Neuspeed used to offer a rabbit suspension package. I didn't bother with the entire kit, as it came with a front sway bar. Front sway bars on track cars are a waste of time. Anyone who autocrosses, pulls it off. I ran Sofsports, and Bilstein adjustables. Good combo for street, strip and autocross. BTW, if you decide on a rabbit project, don't waste your money on a rear sway bar. Just have someone weld a pipe between the rear wheels. It conects the U sections of the rear axle to create a square, and will work way better than a sway bar, and only costs you $20 vs 200 for the sway bar.

jdmsteR

were you running race gas? or just pump? would the motor build itself be more than $5k? what ecu/ mapping?

rabbitman

iTrader: (3)

94 octane with booster. The engine only had a 8.5 to 1 compression ratio, due to the turbo. As for ECU, I used a stock CIS-e system from a 1994 passat, along with a boost adjustable FPR. The entire engine build cost me about $9000. Maybe a little more than that, but I got alot of parts second hand, and the turbo came from a junkyard. Most of the cash went into the block and head, because I can't machine stuff myself. Oh and holley high volume fuel pump, with bigger lines. I'll be honest that I don't remember what size the lines were, but I still have the scars from bending them and installing them.

jdmsteR

what kind of work needs to be done to the motor to get it prepped for slapping on a turbo? what are the approx. costs to put down 250whp reliably less than 10psi. where you get your injectors?

rabbitman

iTrader: (3)

Nuespeed sells good sets of high flow injectors. If you're only looking for about 250 hp, I wouldn't bother with the bottom end, just get the head ported and polished for flow. And just for a little extra, get an intercooler. It's worth it. You can generally find a GN intercooler, or a 80's Regal turbo, they are the same, in a junkyard for $50. Finding one can be a pain, but they are way cheaper than a custom one. And the flow through them is good. As for cams, for 250 hp street, i wouldn't go much bigger than 270/276, with a 396 lift. That combo will keep your idle, and your gas mileage fairly decent, and allow for lots of flow through the head. The biggest improvement you can do to a turbo engine is a BIG exhaust. I don't mean a fart can POS muffler, I'm talking about minimum 2 inch full exhaust, and if your car came with a cat, get a high flow cat, so it is still legal. The cat isn't going to make any kind of noticable difference, and will save you getting a huge ticket for not having it. For muffler, I recommend Hooker street performance, with 2" inlet and outlet. This muffler is more than quiet enough with a turbo motor.