b16eg

So much wrong information in this thread my head is spinning.

First b20 and b18 do not need a b16 head they can use any bseries vtec head, just most people use the b16 since they are cheap.

You will NOT make 300 hp on an allmotor and if you do it will not be daily driver, it may be streetable but I wouldn't want to siti n traffic with it.

The GSR swap is good if you want to build off of it otherwise its just useless. Before everyone goes to jump on me for syaing this if you leave it stock (or a few bolt-ons) you spent a boat load of money on nothing special. I would of rather bought a b16 and save 2gs and make a little less power or upgrade to the R with more power. But if your going to stroke the GSR, Turbo yada yada then go for it its a great choice.

Allthough weight is always a concern the difference from a B to the larger H is realtively small, so small I wouldn't even worry about it.

b16eg

Oh and for 300 hp motor there is a difference between streetable and wanting to drive it on the street. Sure a car with that much power would be fun to drve but then you have to worry about compression ratio, idle, the gas and when you make that much power you are going to be breaking things.

I would get a B@) throw some 403's or 404's with an upgrade valve train, up the compression, bolt-ons and get a good tune. With that you should be in the area of 180 and 140. Then concentrate on suspension and tranny and you should be happy with that.

mks09

Everyone thanks for the advice and opinions, they good suggestions. I have made my decision about my motor and decided to like above stay all motor. The motor will not make 300hp, but it will still be a fast streetable car. Tell me what you think Iam going to be building a custom motor with the following: CRVTEC fully built motor;
b20 block bored .20 over with high compression wiseco pistons, itr head port and polished with ctr cams w/ adjustable toda cam gears, oversized valves with springs and retainers, ITR TB and intake manifold, FPR and guage, 01 ITR injectors, 1st gen b16 cable tranny with LS final drive, ITR oil pump and water pump, DC 4-2-1 2.25 inch collector headers, comes 2nd gen b-series wiring harness. By the way this is going into a 91 Integra. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

zman

iTrader: (1)

i wouldn't bore the b20 anything more than .5mm over....TOPS!!! The sleeves are thin enough already.
If you plan on porting and polishing use a b16/gsr head an ITR head is way too expensive and already has a factory port job and decent cams and valve springs. Why pay all that money to change all of the parts anyways. If you plan on keeping the head stock then grab an ITR, but if your going to build it use a b16 or gsr, since they can be found for $250-500. Oh and an ITR head with CTR cams would be the biggest waste of money because ITR and CTR cams are the same thing, the CTR intake cam has 2 degree's more duration over the ITR cam, but the exhaust cams are identical.
Don't waste your money on an adjustable FPR or guage they aren't needed. Or on ITR injectors, just get some b16 or b18a/b ones they're the same thing, they're all 240cc and the ITR's aren't any better over the b16/b18a/b/c1. Hell even some D-series' are 240cc.
And don't put a LS final drive in a b16 tranny, its the same thing. I think what you are after is the LS 5th gear, not the final drive. A b20vtec w/b16 cable tranny 1st gear is a write off, its pretty much useless, because you'll just burn the tires off. A gsr cable tranny would be a better choice IMO. Make sure to get a decent clutch and maybe lightened flywheel, if its in the budget.
Forget about the DC 4-2-1 header w/2.25" collector. Get a good header (not DC) and go with a 2.5" collector and 2.5" exhaust. I noticed a big difference when i ditched my DC header and 2.25" exhaust for a good 4-2-1 header w/2.5" collector, 2.5" high flow cat and 2.5" exhaust.
Don't forget about tuning. I would just chip the ecu and run BRE or neptune or something. Your tuner will tell you what to use, use what the tuner is comfortable with.
And it might be a good idea to use some ARP rod bolts. And don't forget about the vtec oil feed line and the dowell pins.

mks09

Thanks for the advice, it was very educational as well as helpful. I just wanted to say that, that specific motor has already been built and that it is now swapped into my 91 Integra. Does anyone have any advice on how to make this vehicle look more JDM. For example certain paint combinations etc. And does anyone know how I could make this motor look more cleaner and more tuned. For example: Coloured hoses,Engine polishing etc. Thanks again guys!

sleepy GSR

[QUOTE=b16eg]
I would of rather bought a b16 and save 2gs and make a little less power or upgrade to the R with more power. But if your going to stroke the GSR, Turbo yada yada then go for it its a great choice.

[QUOTE]

save 2 g's ... last few b18c1's sold on this forum for example were around 2g's (thats everything included), so unless you can get a b16 swap for free.. youre kinda stretching it.

but you're right about the second part... you cant really make 300 hp without going turbo or really giving up the "street drivability" of your ride. a turbo gsr is an awsome setup for an EG.

Machismo

Premium dude i dont know where you are getting your info
but an h22 swap isnt boost friendly at all plus that engine canot take realy high rev
i personaly seen many pistons and rods go bad on these especialy on stock boosted aplication
PL

DraztikConcepts

if you wanna go boost run a GSR . right now i have a b20 block with gsr head vtech. its crazy fast. but u can get a B20 motor for 800 dls. read up on things. civic just buy a cheap one and get a b20 motor and install it ..

anyways i dident read what everyone wrote so if i made a mistake my bad lol

and i think to run boost low compression motors are best somthing like that

anyways i got a frankenstain motor b20 block gsr head Vtech stock internals running 5psi im pulling 223 whp 180 torque. not bad but soon ill upgrade most of it. some dynno vids. u want motor etc pm me i got shops with motors straigh from japan.

http://media.putfile.com/civic-turbo

http://media.putfile.com/civic-turbo-gsr

Machismo

on another note if enny of you guys decide to stroke a b series engine
do not go over 2l a 2.1 l strocker kit is a waste of money in my opinion
i had one and it did not like to rev at all also they are things one should
never do to these engine and one of them is knife edging a crank iam not saying taking rotationale mass is a bad thing but if i had to redo it again i would have just done the flyweel and save a load of money on the machining of the crank i would never knife edge a honda crank again they like having a bit of weight on the crank shaft to help them spin at high rpm i lost a load of torque with my race NA engine especialy since i had a 7 pounds fly weel

these are from my personnale experience
and i was utilising a eagle billet strocker kit in a dart block
plus i think it is even more useless if it is in a boosted aplication
becaus of the stroke ratio of the rods wen the pistons comes down the rods sits in a very ed up angle so mutch we had to machine the block to get them to clear and dosnt leave mutch space for error since the sleeves are so thin

best result i had boosting a B series was using stock crank good rods and borin 30 over
way stronger
some time less is better keep it simple dont wast time or money
trust me i went with all the possible route iam talking from personal first hand experience

PL