Eg_TypeR

iTrader: (1)

Built a motor over the winter, and im not too sure if everything will run properly?? maybe some parts shouldnt have been installed??....Little Help??

I started off with a B18c5 block.... Got it with a set off rods and pistons and a damaged crank... Found and installed a GSR crank...and replaced the stock R pistons with oversized JDM CTR pistons.. and reused the stock R rods

Found an R head and bolted that down to the block with an OEM Honda headgasket....Insatlled JDM ITR cams and corwer cam gears, with OEM valves valve springs and retainers.
Then I installed a AEM fuel rail and Press. Reg..... using a stock R intake Man. bored out to 64mm ....and bored out my TB to 64mm
and using a 4-1 DC sport JDM header witha 2.5 collector
Other bolt ons:...CTR crank Pulley,Hondata Intake man. gasket
I plan on getting it tuned b4 i start it but Jus wanted to know if anyone has tried this b4?? or if someone knows its not gonna be good when i turn that key to start the car??
Thanx!!

B16A2

did you have the block and rods inspected and honed before you tossed it all back together? if there was any damage done, a rod may be bent or the block may have some damage.. other than that, run a decent engine management setup or have a chip burned for your specific aplication and it should run very strong... thats a wicked setup you have


Travis

turbocivic

did you get the crankshaft matched to the block with bearings?

don_one2

when i went to buy parts for my ride..they told me not to go with oversized pistons..bcuz the brand new rings will deal with the wear of the engine...but sounds like a sick machine u got..

Eg_TypeR

iTrader: (1)

yea..it was all inspected by mississauga Engines, and they put it back togethar only after making sure it was all good to go... and they used the right bearings for the crank and block

Wanted

iTrader: (2)

i hope that you know your c.r. is going to be out of the roof. i honestly wonder why shops reccomend ctr pistons? they are the heaviest b series piston, have a huge dome (hinders flame travel) and, skyrockets your c.r. modding the rod and adding pr3's or p30 are the best option. anyway, make sure that you have sunoco ultra and some high quality, high concentrate octane booster when you start it. and, i don't recommend ANY daily driving with this set up in this sick heat we've been getting lately or put any type of laod on the car (go uphill at low rpm). anyway, your c.r is 12.649248792586258 to 1 with .025 OS PCT's in an 18c block with oem headgasket and unmilled PR3 head . i'd tow it to your tuner, and bring the stash. all i can say is tuning is the key, but, that c.r is just too high for safe, reliable daily driving. anyway, good luck with the project.

6Msentra

12.6 is more than fine as long as he has a very good piggyback or a standalone.

Wanted

iTrader: (2)

first off....it has nothing to do with the system of choice (piggyback or standalone) for tuning the vehicle, its the tuner. if you read my post, you'd see that i said tow your car to who? the tuner. why? its obvious. its possible to drive with that c.r., its just not logical or practical. that was my point. what is your c.r. on your daily driver? i can bet that its nowhere near 12.6/1................

6Msentra

ignorant statements abound. yes it has to do with the system of choice. forinstance an safc and an fmu will not be good enough. powerFC will be.... so as far as piggybacks go, you need a good one. or a standalone. got it?
my dd is stock so yes compression is lower. but i have 2 friends who have run 14.1-14.5 daily, so i guess your ideas are stuck in the 80's.
and he shouldnt tow his car to the tuner. running high cr he should know how to tune himself because he will be fine tuning on a regular basis.

hell there are stock cars at 11.5:!, ... really 12.6 is not that extreme. hell i remember a few years ago some all-motor drag cars were wunning 16+:1 and it proved reliable in racing, but the tech behind it was leading them to believe that it coud be streetable.

Wanted

iTrader: (2)

are you kidding me???????? LOL, you are right, a safc and fmu is useless, because he doesn't have a turbo kit. fmu's are boost dependant. and, Skunk2's dc2 from 5 years ago ran 10's with only a chipped ecu and a Field vtec controller......so, once again, you are wrong. anyway, if your boys are running in the 14.1-14.5 c.r., then i guess they are full racecars, because the fastest allmotor Honda's in the world run in the 14+ c.r. unfortunately, you are a bit lost. i think that you mean your boys are either running 14.1-14.5 in the 1/4, or, they are running 14.1`-14.5 a/f ratio. if its the latter, then your boys are running on borrowed time. anyway, i'm done. but, i must say, once again......it not practical nor logical. by the way, can you name the cars that are sold with 11.5/1 c.r.? and, don't say the Celica GTS, because Toyota reduced the c.r. after 1 year. and, don't even talk about supercars.

Cerberus

EG Type R, what kind of TB are you running that you had bored out?

Eg_TypeR

iTrader: (1)

thanx for all the help guys.....
and i bored out a stock type R TB

6Msentra

the fmu was to point out the obvious (seeing as you dont think that high compression works).... that there are useless management and management that works.

the 14:1's were street cars on 94 octane. if you dont wnat to believe, thats fine. i could care less. yep sorry the 11.5 was the celica... but didnt they sell it? so i guess it is legit?.... so what do you think about 10.5 and 11.5cr with 14+psi on a turbo? possible? on 94? daily driven?

so a racecar ran a time with a chipped ecu. it doesnt have to run to the store, go to work, have changing atmospheric conditions, etc... 1 pass, done. make small changes. has nothing to do with funning a street car, although the knowledge gained is applicable to street cars.