Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

I think you have taken it about as far as you can without heroic measures
and it is working well enough. As far as the compression goes, I think you
have entered the "don't touch it - you'll break it" zone. I think you are
right; the compression is inadequate at idle but adequate when called on. At
that point my only concern would be for the catalytic temp (and cold idle HC
emissions) at idle, since it is being fed unburned fuel/air mixture.

Short exposure to the non-Honda PS fluid should be okay. I presume Honda
uses natural rubber seals and that is why standard fluids ruin them. In my
younger days I put standard DOT3 brake fluid in the Girling brake system of
my Lotus. About a month later I stepped on the brake to find it useless -
the bad fluid had attacked the master cylinder secondary seal first (it was
bathed on both sides by bad fluid) and then the primary seal. Probably about
the same story with Honda PS.

Mike

"jack42038" <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ffe790fe-6c9b-405b-b0b8-c895e1095aea@f3g2000vbf.googlegroups.com...
> Just an update on about 1000 miles worth of practice driving in the
> last week.
>
> The good: The compression is now up over 100psi and staying there
> (that's a simple dry test).
> The car is driving and handling well. It still has
> it's clutch and my son is getting better at shifting gears.
> The coolant level has not dropped an iota and there is
> no more sign of any kind of coolant coming from the tailpipe.
> The oil has not dropped either and has stayed a nice
> honey color.
> I found a new gas tank level sending unit from a parts
> yard and will be installing that as soon as it gets here.
> I replaced the power steering fluid with Honda fluid.
> Fortunately there does not seem to be any damage from the ATF. Is the
> Honda fluid simply Mineral Oil?
>
> The not good: Still when I unplug the wire from plug #1, there is no
> change in the idle of the engine, but if I try and run it down the
> road with that injector unplugged, it will barely pull a hill.
> It's like the cylinder is only dead at idle, but at speed it appears
> to work.
> The PGMFI light keeps coming on as always.
>
>
> The ask for help.
> So, what do you think? I have put every known home
> remedy into Cylinder #1 and have achieved about 30 extra psi, but it
> should be a total of 150psi.
> I said that I would report back, and so this is it.
> Thanks again guys for your help and information. It has been very
> instructive.
>
> Peace!
> Jack
>
>
>

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ffe790fe-6c9b-405b-b0b8-
c895e1095aea@f3g2000vbf.googlegroups.com:

> Just an update on about 1000 miles worth of practice driving in the
> last week.
>
> The good: The compression is now up over 100psi and staying there
> (that's a simple dry test).




That's absolutely awful. /Minimum/ dry should be about 150.




> The car is driving and handling well. It still has
> it's clutch and my son is getting better at shifting gears.
> The coolant level has not dropped an iota and there is
> no more sign of any kind of coolant coming from the tailpipe.
> The oil has not dropped either and has stayed a nice
> honey color.
> I found a new gas tank level sending unit from a parts
> yard and will be installing that as soon as it gets here.
> I replaced the power steering fluid with Honda fluid.
> Fortunately there does not seem to be any damage from the ATF. Is the
> Honda fluid simply Mineral Oil?




It might be, but the additive package is the most important thing. Honda
says that use of non-Honda fluids will damage the PS system.

Note they say WILL, mot MAY.

The damage shows up over time as leaking seals; it does not happen
overnight.




>
> The not good: Still when I unplug the wire from plug #1, there is no
> change in the idle of the engine, but if I try and run it down the
> road with that injector unplugged, it will barely pull a hill.
> It's like the cylinder is only dead at idle, but at speed it appears
> to work.



At speed you've got the throttle partly open at high revs, so your
actual compression is higher.

Are you certain you're doing the compression test correctly?
1) engine fully-warmed up
2) remove ignition fuse
3) hold throttle wide open
4) make sure compression gauge is tight in spark plug hole
5) crank and read


What happens when you swap the suspect injector to a different cylinder?




> The PGMFI light keeps coming on as always.




What is/are the code/s stored? Might give a clue as to what's happenng
here.



>
>
> The ask for help.
> So, what do you think? I have put every known home
> remedy into Cylinder #1 and have achieved about 30 extra psi, but it
> should be a total of 150psi.




I still think you've simply got an old, tired, worn-out engine.

Read the Check Engine light codes, and try swapping the injector to
another cylinder.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 wrote:
> Just an update on about 1000 miles worth of practice driving in the
> last week.
>
> The good: The compression is now up over 100psi and staying there
> (that's a simple dry test).
> The car is driving and handling well. It still has
> it's clutch and my son is getting better at shifting gears.
> The coolant level has not dropped an iota and there is
> no more sign of any kind of coolant coming from the tailpipe.
> The oil has not dropped either and has stayed a nice
> honey color.
> I found a new gas tank level sending unit from a parts
> yard and will be installing that as soon as it gets here.

check the tank for dents first. if it has any, it could be an internal
baffle problem, not a float/sender problem.




> I replaced the power steering fluid with Honda fluid.
> Fortunately there does not seem to be any damage from the ATF. Is the
> Honda fluid simply Mineral Oil?

believe it's silicone.


>
> The not good: Still when I unplug the wire from plug #1, there is no
> change in the idle of the engine, but if I try and run it down the
> road with that injector unplugged, it will barely pull a hill.

so it's working then. don't monkey about with it any more. engine
replacement is cheaper than repair in this kind of situation.



> It's like the cylinder is only dead at idle, but at speed it appears
> to work.
> The PGMFI light keeps coming on as always.

what is the code????



>
>
> The ask for help.
> So, what do you think? I have put every known home
> remedy into Cylinder #1 and have achieved about 30 extra psi, but it
> should be a total of 150psi.

i say stop fixating on it and just keep driving. yes, it's low per the
book, but it still works. and if you'd never measured it, you'd never know.

bottom line: unless you want to spend a heap of time and money, simply
run it until it fails. then buy a cheapo jdm import engine for a few
hundred bucks and you can have it swapped in 1/5th the time it'll
otherwise take you to repair the original motor.





> I said that I would report back, and so this is it.
> Thanks again guys for your help and information. It has been very
> instructive.
>
> Peace!
> Jack
>
>

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

On Jan 5, 8:38 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> jack42038 <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ffe790fe-6c9b-405b-b0b8-
> c895e1095...@f3g2000vbf.googlegroups.com:
>
> > Just an update on about 1000 miles worth of practice driving in the
> > last week.
>
> > The good: The compression is now up over 100psi and staying there
> > (that's a simple dry test).
>
> That's absolutely awful. /Minimum/ dry should be about 150.
>
> > The car is driving and handling well. It still has
> > it's clutch and my son is getting better at shifting gears.
> > The coolant level has not dropped an iota and there is
> > no more sign of any kind of coolant coming from the tailpipe.
> > The oil has not dropped either and has stayed a nice
> > honey color.
> > I found a new gas tank level sending unit from a parts
> > yard and will be installing that as soon as it gets here.
> > I replaced the power steering fluid with Honda fluid.
> > Fortunately there does not seem to be any damage from the ATF. Is the
> > Honda fluid simply Mineral Oil?
>
> It might be, but the additive package is the most important thing. Honda
> says that use of non-Honda fluids will damage the PS system.
>
> Note they say WILL, mot MAY.
>
> The damage shows up over time as leaking seals; it does not happen
> overnight.
>
>
>
> > The not good: Still when I unplug the wire from plug #1, there is no
> > change in the idle of the engine, but if I try and run it down the
> > road with that injector unplugged, it will barely pull a hill.
> > It's like the cylinder is only dead at idle, but at speed it appears
> > to work.
>
> At speed you've got the throttle partly open at high revs, so your
> actual compression is higher.
>
> Are you certain you're doing the compression test correctly?
> 1) engine fully-warmed up
> 2) remove ignition fuse
> 3) hold throttle wide open
> 4) make sure compression gauge is tight in spark plug hole
> 5) crank and read
>
> What happens when you swap the suspect injector to a different cylinder?
>
> > The PGMFI light keeps coming on as always.
>
> What is/are the code/s stored? Might give a clue as to what's happenng
> here.
>
>
>
> > The ask for help.
> > So, what do you think? I have putevery known home
> > remedy into Cylinder #1 and have achieved about 30 extra psi, but it
> > should be a total of 150psi.
>
> I still think you've simply got an old, tired, worn-out engine.
>
> Read the Check Engine light codes, and try swapping the injector to
> another cylinder.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/



The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones. I was told that this may
have something to do with the EGR and that it may need cleaning. What
think ye?

Just to note, I can keep the PGMFI light from coming on if I run the
engine at high revs right from the driveway. I can take it about 15
miles before I encounter roads and places where I have to slow down
and it is when I begin driving in "in town" type situations that I get
the light. When I drive it sanely from the driveway, I get the PGMFI
light before I get to the first stop sign at the end of my block.

You have described the exact procedure I am using for checking the
compression. I understand that the compression is still woefully
low. I do wonder what caused it to jump the 30lbs though. Perhaps
one ring was stuck and another was damaged? When I swapped the
injector it had no effect, swapping the plug was the same. The plug
wires are new, OE. The plugs are new Champion\ for the moment until I
can get the proper NGK for the car. (If this is necessary)

I am not sure how else to check for stored codes, I have an OBDII
reader, but this car is pre OBD.

The reason I asked about it being mineral oil was because I know there
are a couple cars on the market that use pure mineral oil for their
hydraulic systems, ps, brakes, leveling, etc... Rolls Royce has gone
back and forth on this a couple times during their production years.

As soon as I saw what was posted about the PS fluid I went and flushed
the system and refilled it with the only thing that I could find that
said it was for Honda, Champion PS fluid. It was the shop that
aligned the front end that put the ATF in there, even when I remarked
to them that I thought Honda fluid was different. They assured me
that this was a myth and that it was all just transmission fluid. I
will remember not to let them interfere with the fluids in my Jaguar.

I guess what we will do is to continue basic regular maintenance until
such time as the engine is unusable. To tell the truth, I am glad my
son learned how to shift on a car that we wouldn't cry over. We
still haven't put enough money into it to amount to a couple months
car payments yet.

Is there a link for JDM engines?

Thanks again for the help and advice!
Peace!
Jack

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 wrote:

> The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
> when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones.

Those 6 tones are the seat belt reminder.

On that version of Accord, I believe the ECU is located under the driver's
seat. If you can access it, it will flash a series a lighted codes with
short and long blinks.

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

On Jan 6, 1:16 pm, Eternal Searcher <eternalsearc...@yahoo.ca.invalid>
wrote:
> jack42038 wrote:
> > The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
> > when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones.
>
> Those 6 tones are the seat belt reminder.
>
> On that version of Accord, I believe the ECU is located under the driver's
> seat. If you can access it, it will flash a series a lighted codes with
> short and long blinks.

I was told by the previous owner that the beeps were this car's
version of the flashing lights. Should the tones continue to sound
even when the seatbelt is already on? If not, they do.

I did look under the seat, per the manual, but try as I might I could
not find any flashing lights. I looked from behind and in front of
the driver's seat. I will look again in a few because I have to fix
some speaker wires in the door. It seems that so long as he has
something to listen to as he drives back and forth to school that the
engine problem is no biggie for my son.

Thank You
Jack

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 wrote:

>>> The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
>>> when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones.
>>
>> Those 6 tones are the seat belt reminder.
>>
>> On that version of Accord, I believe the ECU is located under the driver's
>> seat. If you can access it, it will flash a series a lighted codes with
>> short and long blinks.
>
> I was told by the previous owner that the beeps were this car's
> version of the flashing lights. Should the tones continue to sound
> even when the seatbelt is already on? If not, they do.

Here's an idea. Buckle the seat belt before starting the car, and then
listen for the beeps when starting. I bet you won't hear them. :-)

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

Eternal Searcher wrote:

> jack42038 wrote:
>
>>>> The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
>>>> when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones.
>>>
>>> Those 6 tones are the seat belt reminder.
>>>
>>> On that version of Accord, I believe the ECU is located under the driver's
>>> seat. If you can access it, it will flash a series a lighted codes with
>>> short and long blinks.
>>
>> I was told by the previous owner that the beeps were this car's
>> version of the flashing lights. Should the tones continue to sound
>> even when the seatbelt is already on? If not, they do.
>
> Here's an idea. Buckle the seat belt before starting the car, and then
> listen for the beeps when starting. I bet you won't hear them. :-)

Oops, sorry. Didn't see where you said it still sounds with the belt on.
Never mind.

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:798e3c1b-9e84-40b6-b9bb-
41015e60b47d@e18g2000vbe.googlegroups.com:


>
>
>
> The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
> when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones.




Whoever told you that was not too knowledgeable about Hondas.

See this PDF:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/..._E_14JAN03.pdf
starting on page 13.




> I was told that this may
> have something to do with the EGR and that it may need cleaning. What
> think ye?



I think nothing without the proper code.




>
> Just to note, I can keep the PGMFI light from coming on if I run the
> engine at high revs right from the driveway. I can take it about 15
> miles before I encounter roads and places where I have to slow down
> and it is when I begin driving in "in town" type situations that I get
> the light. When I drive it sanely from the driveway, I get the PGMFI
> light before I get to the first stop sign at the end of my block.
>
> You have described the exact procedure I am using for checking the
> compression. I understand that the compression is still woefully
> low. I do wonder what caused it to jump the 30lbs though. Perhaps
> one ring was stuck and another was damaged? When I swapped the
> injector it had no effect, swapping the plug was the same. The plug
> wires are new, OE. The plugs are new Champion\ for the moment until I
> can get the proper NGK for the car. (If this is necessary)
>
> I am not sure how else to check for stored codes, I have an OBDII
> reader, but this car is pre OBD.




See the above PDF. Read the entire Honda section.



>
> The reason I asked about it being mineral oil was because I know there
> are a couple cars on the market that use pure mineral oil for their
> hydraulic systems, ps, brakes, leveling, etc... Rolls Royce has gone
> back and forth on this a couple times during their production years.
>
> As soon as I saw what was posted about the PS fluid I went and flushed
> the system and refilled it with the only thing that I could find that
> said it was for Honda, Champion PS fluid.




That's not Honda fluid. Do not use aftermarket fluids even though they
may claim to be Honda-compatible.

Then again, your ride is probably so far gone by now that it won't
matter what you put in it.




It was the shop that
> aligned the front end that put the ATF in there, even when I remarked
> to them that I thought Honda fluid was different. They assured me
> that this was a myth and that it was all just transmission fluid.




What a bunch of dummies. Probably just wanted to get you out of their
shop.




--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

On Jan 6, 5:26 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> jack42038 <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:798e3c1b-9e84-40b6-b9bb-
> 41015e60b...@e18g2000vbe.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
> > The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
> > when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones.
>
> Whoever told you that was not too knowledgeable about Hondas.
>
> See this PDF:http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/..._E_14JAN03.pdf
> starting on page 13.
>
> > I was told that this may
> > have something to do with the EGR and that it may need cleaning. What
> > think ye?
>
> I think nothing without the proper code.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Just to note, I can keep the PGMFI light from coming on if I run the
> > engine at high revs right from the driveway. I can take it about 15
> > miles before I encounter roads and places where I have to slow down
> > and it is when I begin driving in "in town" type situations that I get
> > the light. When I drive it sanely from the driveway, I get the PGMFI
> > light before I get to the first stop sign at the end of my block.
>
> > You have described the exact procedure I am using for checking the
> > compression. I understand that the compression is still woefully
> > low. I do wonder what caused it to jump the 30lbs though. Perhaps
> > one ring was stuck and another was damaged? When I swapped the
> > injector it had no effect, swapping the plug was the same. The plug
> > wires are new, OE. The plugs are new Champion\ for the moment until I
> > can get the proper NGK for the car. (If this is necessary)
>
> > I am not sure how else to check for stored codes, I have an OBDII
> > reader, but this car is pre OBD.
>
> See the above PDF. Read the entire Honda section.
>
>
>
> > The reason I asked about it being mineral oil was because I know there
> > are a couple cars on the market that use pure mineral oil for their
> > hydraulic systems, ps, brakes, leveling, etc... Rolls Royce has gone
> > back and forth on this a couple times during their production years.
>
> > As soon as I saw what was posted about the PS fluid I went and flushed
> > the system and refilled it with the only thing that I could find that
> > said it was for Honda, Champion PS fluid.
>
> That's not Honda fluid. Do not use aftermarket fluids even though they
> may claim to be Honda-compatible.
>
> Then again, your ride is probably so far gone by now that it won't
> matter what you put in it.
>
> It was the shop that
>
> > aligned the front end that put the ATF in there, even when I remarked
> > to them that I thought Honda fluid was different. They assured me
> > that this was a myth and that it was all just transmission fluid.
>
> What a bunch of dummies. Probably just wanted to get you out of their
> shop.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

You know, with the internet being such a wealth of information and a
multitude of personalities. I can't imagine why I would ever have the
need to ask a question where Tegger might possibly answer me again.

You sir are an ass. You seem to take delight in lording your
knowledge over others and I believe it is unconscionable. Not only my
posts, but others as well. I saw one recently where you berated a man
for not using OEM parts and when he said he would try to replace them,
you made a mockery of his statements. I only came here for
information and certainly didn't bring this type of attitude with
me.

Blessings on you and here is the dust from my feet.

Peace!
Jack

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 wrote:
> On Jan 6, 5:26�pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
>> jack42038 <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:798e3c1b-9e84-40b6-b9bb-
>> 41015e60b...@e18g2000vbe.googlegroups.com:
>>
>>
>>
>>> The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
>>> when you turn the car on. �I get 6 tones.
>> Whoever told you that was not too knowledgeable about Hondas.
>>
>> See this PDF:http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/..._E_14JAN03.pdf
>> starting on page 13.
>>
>>> �I was told that this may
>>> have something to do with the EGR and that it may need cleaning. �What
>>> think ye?
>> I think nothing without the proper code.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Just to note, I can keep the PGMFI light from coming on if I run the
>>> engine at high revs right from the driveway. �I can take it about 15
>>> miles before I encounter roads and places where I have to slow down
>>> and it is when I begin driving in "in town" type situations that I get
>>> the light. �When I drive it sanely from the driveway, I get the PGMFI
>>> light before I get to the first stop sign at the end of my block.
>>> You have described the exact procedure I am using for checking the
>>> compression. �I understand that the compression is still woefully
>>> low. �I do wonder what caused it to jump the 30lbs though. �Perhaps
>>> one ring was stuck and another was damaged? � When I swapped the
>>> injector it had no effect, swapping the plug was the same. �The plug
>>> wires are new, OE. �The plugs are new Champion\ for the moment until I
>>> can get the proper NGK for the car. (If this is necessary)
>>> I am not sure how else to check for stored codes, I have an OBDII
>>> reader, but this car is pre OBD.
>> See the above PDF. Read the entire Honda section.
>>
>>
>>
>>> The reason I asked about it being mineral oil was because I know there
>>> are a couple cars on the market that use pure mineral oil for their
>>> hydraulic systems, ps, brakes, leveling, etc... �Rolls Royce has gone
>>> back and forth on this a couple times during their production years.
>>> As soon as I saw what was posted about the PS fluid I went and flushed
>>> the system and refilled it with the only thing that I could find that
>>> said it was for Honda, Champion PS fluid.
>> That's not Honda fluid. Do not use aftermarket fluids even though they
>> may claim to be Honda-compatible.
>>
>> Then again, your ride is probably so far gone by now that it won't
>> matter what you put in it.
>>
>> � It was the shop that
>>
>>> aligned the front end that put the ATF in there, even when I remarked
>>> to them that I thought Honda fluid was different. �They assured me
>>> that this was a myth and that it was all just transmission fluid.
>> What a bunch of dummies. Probably just wanted to get you out of their
>> shop.
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>
> You know, with the internet being such a wealth of information and a
> multitude of personalities. I can't imagine why I would ever have the
> need to ask a question where Tegger might possibly answer me again.
>
> You sir are an ass. You seem to take delight in lording your
> knowledge over others and I believe it is unconscionable. Not only my
> posts, but others as well. I saw one recently where you berated a man
> for not using OEM parts and when he said he would try to replace them,
> you made a mockery of his statements. I only came here for
> information and certainly didn't bring this type of attitude with
> me.
>
> Blessings on you and here is the dust from my feet.
>
> Peace!
> Jack

it's amazing how, "with the internet being such a wealth of
information", that you can want to remain so ignorant. you got good
advice. if you don't want it, wtf did you bother wasting electrons
asking for it? goddamned idiot.

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

Hi Jack, say I think there has been either a miscommunication or else
tone has been lost due to the limitations of internet forum
communications. Please allow me to tag onto Tegger's post and voice
what I know and understand.

On Jan 6, 4:26 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> jack42038 <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote
> > The codes manifest themselves in this vehicle as a series of tones
> > when you turn the car on. I get 6 tones.
>
> Whoever told you that was not too knowledgeable about Hondas.

Jack, it is true that there are no audible sounds to tell a person
what the codes are. Unless the person who told you this meant
something other than audible sounds, then Tegger is correct that he
does not know much about Hondas.

For reading the codes (which consists of counting blinks of a light at
the engine computer), see
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...00c1528005f5a6
or Tegger's web site.


> > I was told that this may
> > have something to do with the EGR and that it may need cleaning. What
> > think ye?
>
> I think nothing without the proper code.

Jack, IMO the point he is trying to make is that, when an engine code
is thrown, speculating on a diagnosis does not make sense and is
pretty much a waste of forum space. IOW, first things first. Get the
code read.

> > The reason I asked about it being mineral oil was because I know there
> > are a couple cars on the market that use pure mineral oil for their
> > hydraulic systems, ps, brakes, leveling, etc... Rolls Royce has gone
> > back and forth on this a couple times during their production years.
>
> > As soon as I saw what was posted about the PS fluid I went and flushed
> > the system and refilled it with the only thing that I could find that
> > said it was for Honda, Champion PS fluid.
>
> That's not Honda fluid. Do not use aftermarket fluids even though they
> may claim to be Honda-compatible.

I do not find Tegger's response rude. There really is a consensus on
certain fluids having to be OEM and only OEM. But I admit here Tegger
and I differ. I have been using an aftermarket PS fluid that very
specifically says it is for Hondas for over six years in my 91 Civic.
The aftermarket fluid is the one I used for a pretty much a complete
PS system flush. My 91 Civic is doing superbly.

The brand name of my PS fluid is "Coastal Honda Power Steering Fluid"
made by "Warren Unilube." It also says on the label that it is
"formulated to meet the power steering requirements of Honda and Acura
vehicles." It lists no other makes of cars on it. I buy this at Pep
Boys or Autozone.

If the Champion PS fluid says it was okay for Hondas, I am betting all
will be well, assuming the other fluid was not in there long.

> Then again, your ride is probably so far gone by now that it won't
> matter what you put in it.

He has a point. Your son's ride is somewhat crippled from the one
cylinder's compression problems. I would expect more problems down the
line.

> > aligned the front end that put the ATF in there, even when I remarked
> > to them that I thought Honda fluid was different. They assured me
> > that this was a myth and that it was all just transmission fluid.
>
> What a bunch of dummies. Probably just wanted to get you out of their
> shop.

No mincing words here: It's true they are dummies. Using Honda
designated PS fluid is very important. PS system seals failing because
of not using Honda PS fluid is a well-known problem about which you
can find discussion on the internet.

FWIW, Tegger and I have our disagreements but overwhelmingly he
(including his communications style) is pretty darn good about helping
folks get their rides back together. He works his rear off to maintain
a very good DIY site. I would say nearly all of us could maybe stand a
beer (all right, a shot of vodka) once in awhile before posting. But I
did not find this particular post insulting.

1.5 cents.

It has been an interesting thread and I look forward to seeing how
this engine of yours holds out.

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:36902d42-6392-4066-b0e1-
81594bc55f06@x38g2000yqj.googlegroups.com:


>
> You know, with the internet being such a wealth of information and a
> multitude of personalities. I can't imagine why I would ever have the
> need to ask a question where Tegger might possibly answer me again.



This is Usenet; a thick skin is a Useful thing on Usenet

You are free to ask inane questions, and I am free to blather on in
answer to them. You can always killfile me, you know. My handle never
changes, so I should be easy to filter out.



>
> You sir are an ass. You seem to take delight in lording your
> knowledge over others



I do?

You came here looking for answers and I gave answers as best I could.
What more do you want?




> and I believe it is unconscionable. Not only my
> posts, but others as well. I saw one recently where you berated a man
> for not using OEM parts and when he said he would try to replace them,
> you made a mockery of his statements.



Because so many people /do/ make such promises and never follow through,
to their detriment.

I see an awful lot of problems that were caused by the use of
aftermarket parts and nothing else. My opinion of most aftermarket is
very low.

Just the other day there was this guy with sticky brakes. Turned out his
aftermarket front brake rotors had the wrong "hat" height, so the rotors
were binding against the pad mount bracket.




> I only came here for
> information and certainly didn't bring this type of attitude with
> me.



I think you've got your nose out of joint because I insulted your wheels
(and possibly also you're mistakenly thinking the "dummies" comment was
directed at you).

As far as I'm concerned, an engine that has two-thirds of the minimum
acceptable compression IS "far gone". And when that engine is in a 22
year-old car with no value beyond basic transportation, well...



>
> Blessings on you and here is the dust from my feet.



I'll take the blessings, thanks. You can keep the dust.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

Well fwiw I have really appreciated everything Tegger has had to say,
even the bad news. If an answer is the right answer it doesn't matter
whether it is what I wanted to hear.

Tegger was right of course about the blinking codes "no pun intended"
there are 12 blinks and according to the specs that does mean EGR
valve which I will tackle next. I had to remove a cover that blended
in with the computer box. I didn't see little portal there and just
went looking for the blinking light. Since I work during the day I
have done most of this work at night with a flashlight. It was the
previous owner that told me that it was the 6 beeps that indicated
something was wrong with the EGR. He sold me the car for a very
little bit. It was his mother in laws and it was in his way.

The thing that aggravated me (hurt would be a good word too) was the
insinuation that someone would "want me out of their shop". That
stung. I don't know what I said or did to Tegger or anyone else on
this group or in this thread to make someone think that someone would
want me gone. I have always said thanks when anyone has offered
advice and I do appreciate people taking the time, but I don't know
why someone would want to come off sounding mean when all I am doing
is trying to ask questions. I am ignorant about Hondas. I am trying
to fix that. Does it make me a bad person because I don't know this
stuff already? I don't think so. If you came to me to ask how to
build a violin, I would not treat you like a moron for not knowing the
importance of medullary rays.

I am all for a shot of vodka. Actually the stuff my uncle makes would
be better, that or Grappa.

I have not doubted a word of Tegger's technical expertise. It was his
FAQ page that got this blinking Honda going to begin with and I gave
him props for that in my first post. Had it not been for that, it
wouldn't be going at all.

Perhaps I should have just addressed Tegger privately, but I didn't
and that was my mistake. I am not disagreeing with his diagnosis.
There are two threads going on in the back of my mind. One is trying
to see if this thing is at all fixable the other is pricing engines
and reading up to see how to do that. I know that may well be the
fallback position, but in the mean time I intend to learn all I
possibly can.

If I took Tegger's words wrong, then I apologize. If he did not
intend to sound the way I read it, then it is my mistake and I am big
enough to own up to it. If he really meant to say that someone would
tear up my son's car just to get me out of their shop, then I still
stand confused and hurt by the statement.

Thoughtfully yours
Jack

Re: 1986 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 FI
 

jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ffbf764c-8cff-4414-968b-
ec41f5770b80@g3g2000pre.googlegroups.com:


>
> The thing that aggravated me (hurt would be a good word too) was the
> insinuation that someone would "want me out of their shop". That
> stung.



Ah, I get it now. But you're taking this wrongly. I was sneering at the
shop, not at you.

What I meant was that this garage is one of those ignorant and sloppy
outfits: they just want to take your money then shoo you out the door quick
before you make them spend time that they can't charge for.

If they're putting ATF into a Honda steering system, they very obviously
have no clue what they're doing and must have lots of comebacks. When you
questioned them about the ATF, they became afraid you might tell them to
take it out and put the right stuff in, which would cost them time and
money, so they just gave you a soothing BS story and pushed you out the
door. Don't go back there again.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/