1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

Howdy.

I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
for a couple of days, and now won't start.

- No Spark on any plug.
- Cranks just fine.
- Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
- Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
- Rotor turns.
- 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
tabs).
- High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).

My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
while running that diagnosis would be consistent.

Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.

Thanks!

-rev

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote in
news:1164857951.473730.115250@j44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> Howdy.
>
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
>
> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
>
> Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -rev
>
>

Definitely sounds like an open coil.(the infinite secondary resistance
measurement is the glaring clue)
You could also have some bad plug wires,that allowed arcing and extra
strain on the coil.Or from condensation moisture built up while sitting.
Time for new coil,distributor cap/rotor,and HV wires.

use of OEM parts is highly recommended.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote in
news:1164857951.473730.115250@j44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> Howdy.
>
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
>
> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
>
> Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -rev
>
>

Definitely sounds like an open coil.(the infinite secondary resistance
measurement is the glaring clue)
You could also have some bad plug wires,that allowed arcing and extra
strain on the coil.Or from condensation moisture built up while sitting.
Time for new coil,distributor cap/rotor,and HV wires.

use of OEM parts is highly recommended.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote in
news:1164857951.473730.115250@j44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> Howdy.
>
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
>
> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
>
> Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -rev
>
>

Definitely sounds like an open coil.(the infinite secondary resistance
measurement is the glaring clue)
You could also have some bad plug wires,that allowed arcing and extra
strain on the coil.Or from condensation moisture built up while sitting.
Time for new coil,distributor cap/rotor,and HV wires.

use of OEM parts is highly recommended.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

The Reverend Natural Light wrote:
> Howdy.
>
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
>
> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
>
> Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -rev
>
-------------------------------------------------

I think it WAS flooded (see owner's manual for how to start) but now the
coil (or is it igniter) is shot because you spun it with the plugs
disconnected. When the high tension has nowhere to go, it goes
internally and blazes new trails.

The flooding is caused when an injector dribbles overnight and all the
fuel in the pressurized in the rail drips into one cylinder. The cure
for the injector is cleaner, twice a year, or gasohol now and then.

www.tegger.com has way more help about igniters.

'Curly'

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

The Reverend Natural Light wrote:
> Howdy.
>
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
>
> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
>
> Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -rev
>
-------------------------------------------------

I think it WAS flooded (see owner's manual for how to start) but now the
coil (or is it igniter) is shot because you spun it with the plugs
disconnected. When the high tension has nowhere to go, it goes
internally and blazes new trails.

The flooding is caused when an injector dribbles overnight and all the
fuel in the pressurized in the rail drips into one cylinder. The cure
for the injector is cleaner, twice a year, or gasohol now and then.

www.tegger.com has way more help about igniters.

'Curly'

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

The Reverend Natural Light wrote:
> Howdy.
>
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
>
> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
>
> Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -rev
>
-------------------------------------------------

I think it WAS flooded (see owner's manual for how to start) but now the
coil (or is it igniter) is shot because you spun it with the plugs
disconnected. When the high tension has nowhere to go, it goes
internally and blazes new trails.

The flooding is caused when an injector dribbles overnight and all the
fuel in the pressurized in the rail drips into one cylinder. The cure
for the injector is cleaner, twice a year, or gasohol now and then.

www.tegger.com has way more help about igniters.

'Curly'

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

Try the distributer cap. Condensation might have caused the copper
connections inside to become coroded. Hard to get spark through the
green stuff. I had the same issue with my 89 Mercedes 300E.

Jim Yanik wrote:
> "The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote in
> news:1164857951.473730.115250@j44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>
> > Howdy.
> >
> > I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> > for a couple of days, and now won't start.
> >
> > - No Spark on any plug.
> > - Cranks just fine.
> > - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> > - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> > - Rotor turns.
> > - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> > tabs).
> > - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
> >
> > My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> > considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> > while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
> >
> > Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> > with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > -rev
> >
> >
>
> Definitely sounds like an open coil.(the infinite secondary resistance
> measurement is the glaring clue)
> You could also have some bad plug wires,that allowed arcing and extra
> strain on the coil.Or from condensation moisture built up while sitting.
> Time for new coil,distributor cap/rotor,and HV wires.
>
> use of OEM parts is highly recommended.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

Try the distributer cap. Condensation might have caused the copper
connections inside to become coroded. Hard to get spark through the
green stuff. I had the same issue with my 89 Mercedes 300E.

Jim Yanik wrote:
> "The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote in
> news:1164857951.473730.115250@j44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>
> > Howdy.
> >
> > I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> > for a couple of days, and now won't start.
> >
> > - No Spark on any plug.
> > - Cranks just fine.
> > - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> > - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> > - Rotor turns.
> > - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> > tabs).
> > - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
> >
> > My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> > considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> > while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
> >
> > Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> > with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > -rev
> >
> >
>
> Definitely sounds like an open coil.(the infinite secondary resistance
> measurement is the glaring clue)
> You could also have some bad plug wires,that allowed arcing and extra
> strain on the coil.Or from condensation moisture built up while sitting.
> Time for new coil,distributor cap/rotor,and HV wires.
>
> use of OEM parts is highly recommended.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

Try the distributer cap. Condensation might have caused the copper
connections inside to become coroded. Hard to get spark through the
green stuff. I had the same issue with my 89 Mercedes 300E.

Jim Yanik wrote:
> "The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote in
> news:1164857951.473730.115250@j44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>
> > Howdy.
> >
> > I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine daily, sat parked
> > for a couple of days, and now won't start.
> >
> > - No Spark on any plug.
> > - Cranks just fine.
> > - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> > - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few seconds.
> > - Rotor turns.
> > - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low voltage
> > tabs).
> > - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite resistence).
> >
> > My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems so unlikely
> > considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week. If it died
> > while running that diagnosis would be consistent.
> >
> > Any suggestions? I'm out of my element here.. I'm more comfortable
> > with Honda motorcycles and GM/Chrysler cars.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > -rev
> >
> >
>
> Definitely sounds like an open coil.(the infinite secondary resistance
> measurement is the glaring clue)
> You could also have some bad plug wires,that allowed arcing and extra
> strain on the coil.Or from condensation moisture built up while sitting.
> Time for new coil,distributor cap/rotor,and HV wires.
>
> use of OEM parts is highly recommended.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine
> daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few
> seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low
> voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite
> resistence).

Specs are 0.6 to 0.8 ohms and 12,800 to 19,200 ohms,
respectively, so the resistance checks suggest the coil is
good.

> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems
> so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week.
> If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.

I agree.

My money's on the problem being the igniter or some other
ignition part. The igniter costs under $100 from OEM online
parts sites and is not hard to replace, given your other
experience.

How many miles on car? Years and miles on coil and igniter?
If originals or non-OEM, again, strongly suspect one of
them.

When was the car last tuned up (new plugs, wires,
distributor rotor and cap, fuel filter, air filter, timing
check, bottle of Chevron Techron in fuel tank)? Were OEM
ignition parts used?

A good site for these and other candidate problems for your
situation, including further checks you can do on the coil
and igniter:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html

www.autozone.com has a free online manual (with many factory
service manual excerpts) for your car that also has
troubleshooting procedures under the "Engine Electrical"
section.

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine
> daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few
> seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low
> voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite
> resistence).

Specs are 0.6 to 0.8 ohms and 12,800 to 19,200 ohms,
respectively, so the resistance checks suggest the coil is
good.

> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems
> so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week.
> If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.

I agree.

My money's on the problem being the igniter or some other
ignition part. The igniter costs under $100 from OEM online
parts sites and is not hard to replace, given your other
experience.

How many miles on car? Years and miles on coil and igniter?
If originals or non-OEM, again, strongly suspect one of
them.

When was the car last tuned up (new plugs, wires,
distributor rotor and cap, fuel filter, air filter, timing
check, bottle of Chevron Techron in fuel tank)? Were OEM
ignition parts used?

A good site for these and other candidate problems for your
situation, including further checks you can do on the coil
and igniter:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html

www.autozone.com has a free online manual (with many factory
service manual excerpts) for your car that also has
troubleshooting procedures under the "Engine Electrical"
section.

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote
> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine
> daily, sat parked
> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>
> - No Spark on any plug.
> - Cranks just fine.
> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few
> seconds.
> - Rotor turns.
> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low
> voltage
> tabs).
> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite
> resistence).

Specs are 0.6 to 0.8 ohms and 12,800 to 19,200 ohms,
respectively, so the resistance checks suggest the coil is
good.

> My initial guess is that the coil is bad. That just seems
> so unlikely
> considering it ran just fine when it was parked last week.
> If it died
> while running that diagnosis would be consistent.

I agree.

My money's on the problem being the igniter or some other
ignition part. The igniter costs under $100 from OEM online
parts sites and is not hard to replace, given your other
experience.

How many miles on car? Years and miles on coil and igniter?
If originals or non-OEM, again, strongly suspect one of
them.

When was the car last tuned up (new plugs, wires,
distributor rotor and cap, fuel filter, air filter, timing
check, bottle of Chevron Techron in fuel tank)? Were OEM
ignition parts used?

A good site for these and other candidate problems for your
situation, including further checks you can do on the coil
and igniter:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html

www.autozone.com has a free online manual (with many factory
service manual excerpts) for your car that also has
troubleshooting procedures under the "Engine Electrical"
section.

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:%pBbh.5635$1s6.3597@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net:

> "The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote
>> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine
>> daily, sat parked
>> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>>
>> - No Spark on any plug.
>> - Cranks just fine.
>> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
>> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few
>> seconds.
>> - Rotor turns.
>> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low
>> voltage
>> tabs).
>> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite
>> resistence).
>
> Specs are 0.6 to 0.8 ohms and 12,800 to 19,200 ohms,
> respectively, so the resistance checks suggest the coil is
> good.

How does "infinite resistance = 12.8K to 19.2K ohms?
IMO,infinite R = OPEN = bad coil.

Of course,he should be measuring from either one of the LV tabs to the EHT
output terminal(post) for that secondary resistance reading,as the igniter
will not be grounding the coil.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Re: 1991 Accord - No Start - No Spark
 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:%pBbh.5635$1s6.3597@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net:

> "The Reverend Natural Light" <reverend@fourthgen.org> wrote
>> I've got a 1991 Accord that won't start. It ran fine
>> daily, sat parked
>> for a couple of days, and now won't start.
>>
>> - No Spark on any plug.
>> - Cranks just fine.
>> - Fuel pump cycles when the key is switched on.
>> - Check engine light comes on, then shuts off after a few
>> seconds.
>> - Rotor turns.
>> - 0.7 ohms resistence across the low side of the coil (low
>> voltage
>> tabs).
>> - High side of the coil (post to ground) is open (infinite
>> resistence).
>
> Specs are 0.6 to 0.8 ohms and 12,800 to 19,200 ohms,
> respectively, so the resistance checks suggest the coil is
> good.

How does "infinite resistance = 12.8K to 19.2K ohms?
IMO,infinite R = OPEN = bad coil.

Of course,he should be measuring from either one of the LV tabs to the EHT
output terminal(post) for that secondary resistance reading,as the igniter
will not be grounding the coil.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net