88 Accord Timing
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Matt Ion wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
.. I found out the hard way.
BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
chugging along.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
.. I found out the hard way.
BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
chugging along.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Matt Ion wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
.. I found out the hard way.
BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
chugging along.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
.. I found out the hard way.
BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
chugging along.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Headknocker via CarKB.com wrote:
> Matt Ion wrote:
>
>>>Hello,
>>>
>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>>>Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>>
>>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>>
>>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>>normal running.
>>
>>See if these pages help any:
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>>
>>---
>>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
>
> No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
> properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
> little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
> testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
> . I found out the hard way.
I think the main source of confusion is in step 3: "Disconnect the
vacuum hose(s) from the vacuum advance and, while the engine idles,
check each hose for vacuum and plug the hoses." - I suspect it means to
PLUG IN the hoses.
> BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
> never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
> chugging along.
Mine's coming up this week... as soon as I replace the distributor with
a leaky advance diaphragm. Wish me luck!
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 0615-1, 04/11/2006
Tested on: 4/11/2006 11:13:57 AM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
> Matt Ion wrote:
>
>>>Hello,
>>>
>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>>>Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>>
>>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>>
>>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>>normal running.
>>
>>See if these pages help any:
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>>
>>---
>>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
>
> No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
> properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
> little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
> testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
> . I found out the hard way.
I think the main source of confusion is in step 3: "Disconnect the
vacuum hose(s) from the vacuum advance and, while the engine idles,
check each hose for vacuum and plug the hoses." - I suspect it means to
PLUG IN the hoses.
> BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
> never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
> chugging along.
Mine's coming up this week... as soon as I replace the distributor with
a leaky advance diaphragm. Wish me luck!
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 0615-1, 04/11/2006
Tested on: 4/11/2006 11:13:57 AM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Headknocker via CarKB.com wrote:
> Matt Ion wrote:
>
>>>Hello,
>>>
>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>>>Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>>
>>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>>
>>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>>normal running.
>>
>>See if these pages help any:
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>>
>>---
>>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
>
> No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
> properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
> little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
> testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
> . I found out the hard way.
I think the main source of confusion is in step 3: "Disconnect the
vacuum hose(s) from the vacuum advance and, while the engine idles,
check each hose for vacuum and plug the hoses." - I suspect it means to
PLUG IN the hoses.
> BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
> never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
> chugging along.
Mine's coming up this week... as soon as I replace the distributor with
a leaky advance diaphragm. Wish me luck!
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 0615-1, 04/11/2006
Tested on: 4/11/2006 11:13:57 AM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
> Matt Ion wrote:
>
>>>Hello,
>>>
>>
>>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>>>Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>>
>>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>>
>>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>>normal running.
>>
>>See if these pages help any:
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>>
>>---
>>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
>
> No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
> properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
> little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
> testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
> . I found out the hard way.
I think the main source of confusion is in step 3: "Disconnect the
vacuum hose(s) from the vacuum advance and, while the engine idles,
check each hose for vacuum and plug the hoses." - I suspect it means to
PLUG IN the hoses.
> BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
> never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
> chugging along.
Mine's coming up this week... as soon as I replace the distributor with
a leaky advance diaphragm. Wish me luck!
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 0615-1, 04/11/2006
Tested on: 4/11/2006 11:13:57 AM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Hello Matt,
Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
to time it but
did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
the right
track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
anyway with the hoses
attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
corrections
in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
Regards,
Gateway
Matt Ion wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
to time it but
did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
the right
track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
anyway with the hoses
attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
corrections
in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
Regards,
Gateway
Matt Ion wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Hello Matt,
Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
to time it but
did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
the right
track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
anyway with the hoses
attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
corrections
in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
Regards,
Gateway
Matt Ion wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
to time it but
did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
the right
track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
anyway with the hoses
attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
corrections
in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
Regards,
Gateway
Matt Ion wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?
>
>I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
>when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.
>
>In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
>the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model). The
>part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
>for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
>(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
>the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
>normal running.
>
>See if these pages help any:
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-4.JPG
>http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/...rical/24-5.JPG
>
>---
>avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
>Virus Database (VPS): 0615-0, 04/08/2006
>Tested on: 4/10/2006 8:51:29 PM
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
gateway wrote:
>Hello Matt,
>
>Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
>to time it but
>did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
>the right
>track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
>anyway with the hoses
>attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
>corrections
>in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
>
>Regards,
>
>Gateway
>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
Accords(if you didn't know already).
If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>Hello Matt,
>
>Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
>to time it but
>did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
>the right
>track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
>anyway with the hoses
>attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
>corrections
>in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
>
>Regards,
>
>Gateway
>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
Accords(if you didn't know already).
If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
gateway wrote:
>Hello Matt,
>
>Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
>to time it but
>did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
>the right
>track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
>anyway with the hoses
>attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
>corrections
>in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
>
>Regards,
>
>Gateway
>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
Accords(if you didn't know already).
If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>Hello Matt,
>
>Thanks for the links. Yes, this clears it up. A long time ago I was going
>to time it but
>did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual. I knew I was probably on
>the right
>track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
>anyway with the hoses
>attached. You would think a later version of the manual would have some
>corrections
>in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.
>
>Regards,
>
>Gateway
>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com
>
This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
Accords(if you didn't know already).
If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Hello Headknocker,
Here this a uninstall/install procedure without any needed adjustment in
replacing the Frequency Valve C?
Headknocker wrote:
>>Hello Matt,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>>http://www.avast.com
>
>This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
>Accords(if you didn't know already).
>
>If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
>Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
>ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
>Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
>Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
Here this a uninstall/install procedure without any needed adjustment in
replacing the Frequency Valve C?
Headknocker wrote:
>>Hello Matt,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>>http://www.avast.com
>
>This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
>Accords(if you didn't know already).
>
>If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
>Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
>ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
>Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
>Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Accord Timing
Hello Headknocker,
Here this a uninstall/install procedure without any needed adjustment in
replacing the Frequency Valve C?
Headknocker wrote:
>>Hello Matt,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>>http://www.avast.com
>
>This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
>Accords(if you didn't know already).
>
>If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
>Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
>ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
>Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
>Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
Here this a uninstall/install procedure without any needed adjustment in
replacing the Frequency Valve C?
Headknocker wrote:
>>Hello Matt,
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>>http://www.avast.com
>
>This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
>Accords(if you didn't know already).
>
>If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
>Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
>ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
>Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
>Accords. Just a little FYI.
--
Gateway
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1
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