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Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> Please help as soon as possible. >> > Also try some brake cleaner in the taper seat before > putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... > as I've found :-( That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of earlier. :-) Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling to prevent the stud from turning. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Elle wrote:
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >[quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... >> as I've found :-( > >That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of >earlier. :-) > >Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time >with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted >notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that >thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling >to prevent the stud from turning. Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison :) -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200605/1 |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Elle wrote:
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >[quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... >> as I've found :-( > >That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of >earlier. :-) > >Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time >with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted >notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that >thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling >to prevent the stud from turning. Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison :) -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200605/1 |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Elle wrote:
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >[quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> putting pressure on it. Oil in there is a real problem... >> as I've found :-( > >That's in my notes from the "Ball Joint Tools" thread of >earlier. :-) > >Also, as evidence I am paying attention (well, this time >with a bit of hindsight as I look over my copy-and-pasted >notes) I see a guy named headknocker suggested (in that >thread) a vice grip applied to the joint when re-assembling >to prevent the stud from turning. Elle: Yeah, that was me. Both ways work equally well. Pick your poison :) -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200605/1 |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:Hiwag.5762$u4.5425@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net: > Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my > car. > > Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without > disassembling the ball joint, after all. > > "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack >> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of >> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give >> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. >> >> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts >> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. >> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with >> solvent to remove any grease. >> >> Stewart DIBBS >> > > > According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of replacing the BJ in the original control arm? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:Hiwag.5762$u4.5425@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net: > Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my > car. > > Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without > disassembling the ball joint, after all. > > "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack >> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of >> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give >> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. >> >> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts >> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. >> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with >> solvent to remove any grease. >> >> Stewart DIBBS >> > > > According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of replacing the BJ in the original control arm? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:Hiwag.5762$u4.5425@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net: > Thanks. I will try this Thursday when I resume work on my > car. > > Helluva day with a control arm bolt, but got it without > disassembling the ball joint, after all. > > "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com> wrote >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >>> Cotter pin's out. How can I free the castle nut from the >>> ball joint stud? They currently move as one. >> >> The ball joint taper has broken its adhesion. Stick a jack >> under the control arm and lift enough to put the weight of >> the car on the taper to jam it again. You may need to give >> the joint a whack on the base with a hammer to help. >> >> GENTLY try turning the castle nut. If it all starts >> turning again, give the joint a whack again to lock it. >> Once its out, clean the taper and upright hole with >> solvent to remove any grease. >> >> Stewart DIBBS >> > > > According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not replaceable,and the entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any method of replacing the BJ in the original control arm? -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not > replaceable,and the > entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any > method of > replacing the BJ in the original control arm? I should have clarified that my post above concerns the lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to install new lower control arm bushings within the next week (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not > replaceable,and the > entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any > method of > replacing the BJ in the original control arm? I should have clarified that my post above concerns the lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to install new lower control arm bushings within the next week (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not > replaceable,and the > entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any > method of > replacing the BJ in the original control arm? I should have clarified that my post above concerns the lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I don't plan to replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to install new lower control arm bushings within the next week (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness from pass. side to dr. side. I need to disconnect the lower ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:vkHag.163$SX5.41@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net: > "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >> replaceable,and the >> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any >> method of >> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? > > I should have clarified that my post above concerns the > lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and > ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic > contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX > manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball > joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... > > Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers might know. > I don't plan to > replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to > install new lower control arm bushings within the next week > (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness > from pass. side to dr. side. Have you tried two new springs yet? ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that failed. > I need to disconnect the lower > ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble > removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while > thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, > yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt > in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can > drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. > > > -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:vkHag.163$SX5.41@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net: > "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >> replaceable,and the >> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any >> method of >> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? > > I should have clarified that my post above concerns the > lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and > ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic > contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX > manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball > joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... > > Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers might know. > I don't plan to > replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to > install new lower control arm bushings within the next week > (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness > from pass. side to dr. side. Have you tried two new springs yet? ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that failed. > I need to disconnect the lower > ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble > removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while > thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, > yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt > in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can > drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. > > > -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:vkHag.163$SX5.41@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net: > "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote >> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not >> replaceable,and the >> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there any >> method of >> replacing the BJ in the original control arm? > > I should have clarified that my post above concerns the > lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and > ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my Civic > contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX > manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball > joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle... > > Not sure what you're asking, otherwise. I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers might know. > I don't plan to > replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to > install new lower control arm bushings within the next week > (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's un-levelness > from pass. side to dr. side. Have you tried two new springs yet? ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height springs;evidently that failed. > I need to disconnect the lower > ball joint to remove the control arm. I ran into trouble > removing the inboard control bolt and for a little while > thought my best bet was to disconnect the ball joint, > yada... Anyway, managed to remove the inboard control bolt > in its entirety without doing the BJ right now, so I can > drive the car today and resume work tomorrow. > > > -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Jim Yanik wrote:
> > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to > a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-; > you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. > > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that > upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. > > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers > might know. I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy. If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit. Eric |
Re: Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"
Jim Yanik wrote:
> > I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to > replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to > a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-; > you must replace the whole upper control wishbone. > > I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that > upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone. > > since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers > might know. I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy. If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit. Eric |
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