Dealing with screws, bolts etc
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 09:50:21 -0400, John Smith wrote:
> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
> stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
> is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
GM Penatrant/Lubricant. Get it at a GM parts counter (yes, GM *DOES*
actually make something worthwhile!
Runs $8~12 depending how much of a discount the parts guy gives you...
Spray anything you want to work on a day in advance. Spray everything
else, too.
I had a Toyota Tercel that had the usual rust/corrosion, and sprayed them
with this stuff. Teo days later they looked NEW! Periodic sprays kept them
looking new, and made them easy to remove.
> I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
> stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
> is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
GM Penatrant/Lubricant. Get it at a GM parts counter (yes, GM *DOES*
actually make something worthwhile!
Runs $8~12 depending how much of a discount the parts guy gives you...
Spray anything you want to work on a day in advance. Spray everything
else, too.
I had a Toyota Tercel that had the usual rust/corrosion, and sprayed them
with this stuff. Teo days later they looked NEW! Periodic sprays kept them
looking new, and made them easy to remove.
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga...
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
>stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
>is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(
Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.
I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....
Mike
newsWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga...
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
>stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
>is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(
Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.
I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....
Mike
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga...
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
>stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
>is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(
Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.
I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....
Mike
newsWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga...
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
>stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
>is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(
Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.
I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....
Mike
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dealing with screws, bolts etc
"John Smith" <jsmith@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga...
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
>stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
>is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(
Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.
I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....
Mike
newsWtgi.1$at7.0@newsfe12.lga...
>I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
>stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
>is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
>
> The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
> body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
> I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
> obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
> way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and
> I'm put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
> distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
>
> Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
> obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>
>
My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(
Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.
I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....
Mike
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