Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

Thanks guys and gals,

this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.

After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
contamination?

I appreciate it all...

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1147437305.602681.24970@d71g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com:

> Thanks guys and gals,
>
> this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
> adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
> manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.



Here's what I did on my car ('91 Integra):
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
For pushrod adjustment, see parts 6 and 7.

Pushrod adjustment is one of the things I ended up having to do before my
pedal felt correct.



>
> After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
> any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
> Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
> screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
> contamination?



I didn't have any problems with air getting into the lines. Read the link
above and you'll see why.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1147437305.602681.24970@d71g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com:

> Thanks guys and gals,
>
> this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
> adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
> manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.



Here's what I did on my car ('91 Integra):
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
For pushrod adjustment, see parts 6 and 7.

Pushrod adjustment is one of the things I ended up having to do before my
pedal felt correct.



>
> After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
> any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
> Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
> screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
> contamination?



I didn't have any problems with air getting into the lines. Read the link
above and you'll see why.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1147437305.602681.24970@d71g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com:

> Thanks guys and gals,
>
> this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
> adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
> manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.



Here's what I did on my car ('91 Integra):
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
For pushrod adjustment, see parts 6 and 7.

Pushrod adjustment is one of the things I ended up having to do before my
pedal felt correct.



>
> After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
> any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
> Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
> screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
> contamination?



I didn't have any problems with air getting into the lines. Read the link
above and you'll see why.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

On 12 May 2006 05:35:05 -0700, "scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Thanks guys and gals,
>
> this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
>adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
>manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.
>
> After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
>any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
> Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
>screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
>contamination?

You got air int he cylinder, the new one. you're going to have to push
it out via the lines anyway, who cares if theres a little more air int
he lines? Its not a big deal, since you're gong to be pushing the rest
of the crap out. look at the system, and apply a small amont of common
sense.

>
>I appreciate it all...

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

On 12 May 2006 05:35:05 -0700, "scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Thanks guys and gals,
>
> this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
>adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
>manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.
>
> After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
>any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
> Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
>screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
>contamination?

You got air int he cylinder, the new one. you're going to have to push
it out via the lines anyway, who cares if theres a little more air int
he lines? Its not a big deal, since you're gong to be pushing the rest
of the crap out. look at the system, and apply a small amont of common
sense.

>
>I appreciate it all...

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

On 12 May 2006 05:35:05 -0700, "scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Thanks guys and gals,
>
> this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
>adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
>manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.
>
> After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
>any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
> Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
>screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
>contamination?

You got air int he cylinder, the new one. you're going to have to push
it out via the lines anyway, who cares if theres a little more air int
he lines? Its not a big deal, since you're gong to be pushing the rest
of the crap out. look at the system, and apply a small amont of common
sense.

>
>I appreciate it all...

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

Tegger,
I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
"The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
air in the lines that way"

Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid. I understand there
will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
bled out from that.

Thanks all for the advice...

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

Tegger,
I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
"The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
air in the lines that way"

Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid. I understand there
will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
bled out from that.

Thanks all for the advice...

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

Tegger,
I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
"The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
air in the lines that way"

Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid. I understand there
will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
bled out from that.

Thanks all for the advice...

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

scube wrote:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.

they don't wave about, but don't bend them. there's enough flex there
that you can move them temorarily out of the way, but again, do not
permanently bend the metal pipes.

> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out,

the fluid doesn't usually run out of the pipes unless you have a bleed
nipple open downstream. [the pipe internal diameter is chosen
specifically so that doesen't happen.] you can therefore, at a pinch,
and this is not recommended, bleed the m/c direct at the pipe connectors
and not even bleed the rest of the system. again, that's not
recommended, but it can be done because the pipes don't usually empty on
their own.

> but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.

yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.

>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

scube wrote:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.

they don't wave about, but don't bend them. there's enough flex there
that you can move them temorarily out of the way, but again, do not
permanently bend the metal pipes.

> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out,

the fluid doesn't usually run out of the pipes unless you have a bleed
nipple open downstream. [the pipe internal diameter is chosen
specifically so that doesen't happen.] you can therefore, at a pinch,
and this is not recommended, bleed the m/c direct at the pipe connectors
and not even bleed the rest of the system. again, that's not
recommended, but it can be done because the pipes don't usually empty on
their own.

> but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.

yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.

>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

scube wrote:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.

they don't wave about, but don't bend them. there's enough flex there
that you can move them temorarily out of the way, but again, do not
permanently bend the metal pipes.

> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out,

the fluid doesn't usually run out of the pipes unless you have a bleed
nipple open downstream. [the pipe internal diameter is chosen
specifically so that doesen't happen.] you can therefore, at a pinch,
and this is not recommended, bleed the m/c direct at the pipe connectors
and not even bleed the rest of the system. again, that's not
recommended, but it can be done because the pipes don't usually empty on
their own.

> but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.

yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.

>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

The order of bleeding for the '93 accord is Rear Right, Front Left,
Rear Left, Front Right. I'm going to have to figure a way to tackle
the pushrod freeplay issue. Okay. I got my refurbished MC and so I'm
just waiting for the opportune moment, like when I have a 3day weekend
or something...
I've always got AAA to drag me to the mechanic ..

Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
 

The order of bleeding for the '93 accord is Rear Right, Front Left,
Rear Left, Front Right. I'm going to have to figure a way to tackle
the pushrod freeplay issue. Okay. I got my refurbished MC and so I'm
just waiting for the opportune moment, like when I have a 3day weekend
or something...
I've always got AAA to drag me to the mechanic ..