Grumpy AuContraire

"N.E.Ohio Bob" wrote:
>
> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
> >
> > Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt car. I'm
> > spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old bolts/nuts still turn freely...
> >
> > JT
>
> I'm looking for a rust free '92 Accord 2 door that I can put my
> drivetrain and interior into. This *#!!ing rust is braking my heart.
> bob


Do occasional searches on Craig's List for Austin, San Antonio and
Dallas/Ft. Worth. Steer clear of Houston as cars there sort of qualify
for "rust belt" status.

Of course, you can also check cities in south Arizona and most of
California. Even Washington and Oregon (near the coast) cars are
relatively rust free.

JT

Elle

"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote
> I always install bushings dry as to preserve the
> interference fit. I
> just use a BFH on the (collar/socket) that is the driving
> interface to
> the bushing. Also keep in mind that the bushings should
> be left in the
> freezer overnight.
>
> Regarding heating components for "fitting" purposes, good
> temperature
> control can be achieved by using Tempil Sticks at
> temperature ratings of
> 200° & 225° F. This insures heating sufficiently but not
> exceeding to a
> range that could lead to compromises structurally.

JT, all of this is now copied and pasted to my notes.

I installed the re-bushinged dr side front control arm and
test drove my Civic a few hours ago. Drives well. I do think
I have less clunkiness going over dips etc.

Hopefully the passenger side front lower control arm bushing
installation will go better. Will try it in a week or so.

> Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt
> car. I'm
> spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old
> bolts/nuts still turn freely...

Interesting. My 91 Civic was driven for 12 years in the rust
belt. The last three have been out West. In the local
junkyard here, I never have problems freeing old control arm
bolts from their Hondas. Also, the old, bushing outer
sleeves of the second-hand, bent control arm I purchased for
practice were much easier to remove.

Thanks!

Elle

"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote
> I always install bushings dry as to preserve the
> interference fit. I
> just use a BFH on the (collar/socket) that is the driving
> interface to
> the bushing. Also keep in mind that the bushings should
> be left in the
> freezer overnight.
>
> Regarding heating components for "fitting" purposes, good
> temperature
> control can be achieved by using Tempil Sticks at
> temperature ratings of
> 200° & 225° F. This insures heating sufficiently but not
> exceeding to a
> range that could lead to compromises structurally.

JT, all of this is now copied and pasted to my notes.

I installed the re-bushinged dr side front control arm and
test drove my Civic a few hours ago. Drives well. I do think
I have less clunkiness going over dips etc.

Hopefully the passenger side front lower control arm bushing
installation will go better. Will try it in a week or so.

> Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt
> car. I'm
> spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old
> bolts/nuts still turn freely...

Interesting. My 91 Civic was driven for 12 years in the rust
belt. The last three have been out West. In the local
junkyard here, I never have problems freeing old control arm
bolts from their Hondas. Also, the old, bushing outer
sleeves of the second-hand, bent control arm I purchased for
practice were much easier to remove.

Thanks!

Elle

"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote
> I always install bushings dry as to preserve the
> interference fit. I
> just use a BFH on the (collar/socket) that is the driving
> interface to
> the bushing. Also keep in mind that the bushings should
> be left in the
> freezer overnight.
>
> Regarding heating components for "fitting" purposes, good
> temperature
> control can be achieved by using Tempil Sticks at
> temperature ratings of
> 200° & 225° F. This insures heating sufficiently but not
> exceeding to a
> range that could lead to compromises structurally.

JT, all of this is now copied and pasted to my notes.

I installed the re-bushinged dr side front control arm and
test drove my Civic a few hours ago. Drives well. I do think
I have less clunkiness going over dips etc.

Hopefully the passenger side front lower control arm bushing
installation will go better. Will try it in a week or so.

> Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt
> car. I'm
> spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old
> bolts/nuts still turn freely...

Interesting. My 91 Civic was driven for 12 years in the rust
belt. The last three have been out West. In the local
junkyard here, I never have problems freeing old control arm
bolts from their Hondas. Also, the old, bushing outer
sleeves of the second-hand, bent control arm I purchased for
practice were much easier to remove.

Thanks!

Dave Kelsen

On 5/21/2006 3:53 PM N.E.Ohio Bob spake these words of knowledge:

> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt car. I'm
>> spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old bolts/nuts still turn freely...
>>
>> JT
>
> I'm looking for a rust free '92 Accord 2 door that I can put my
> drivetrain and interior into. This *#!!ing rust is braking my heart.
> bob

I'm not being a jerk, but... OK, I am, but that's not why I'm writing this.

Guys, 2 threads above this we have someone saying 'break fluid'. No.
It's brake fluid, because what stops the car is brakes. What breaks
your heart, on the other hand, is 'breaking' news.

I just couldn't stand it anymore.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
By the time they had diminished from 50 to 8, the other dwarves began to
suspect 'Hungry'...

Dave Kelsen

On 5/21/2006 3:53 PM N.E.Ohio Bob spake these words of knowledge:

> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt car. I'm
>> spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old bolts/nuts still turn freely...
>>
>> JT
>
> I'm looking for a rust free '92 Accord 2 door that I can put my
> drivetrain and interior into. This *#!!ing rust is braking my heart.
> bob

I'm not being a jerk, but... OK, I am, but that's not why I'm writing this.

Guys, 2 threads above this we have someone saying 'break fluid'. No.
It's brake fluid, because what stops the car is brakes. What breaks
your heart, on the other hand, is 'breaking' news.

I just couldn't stand it anymore.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
By the time they had diminished from 50 to 8, the other dwarves began to
suspect 'Hungry'...

Dave Kelsen

On 5/21/2006 3:53 PM N.E.Ohio Bob spake these words of knowledge:

> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt car. I'm
>> spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old bolts/nuts still turn freely...
>>
>> JT
>
> I'm looking for a rust free '92 Accord 2 door that I can put my
> drivetrain and interior into. This *#!!ing rust is braking my heart.
> bob

I'm not being a jerk, but... OK, I am, but that's not why I'm writing this.

Guys, 2 threads above this we have someone saying 'break fluid'. No.
It's brake fluid, because what stops the car is brakes. What breaks
your heart, on the other hand, is 'breaking' news.

I just couldn't stand it anymore.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
By the time they had diminished from 50 to 8, the other dwarves began to
suspect 'Hungry'...

Jim Yanik

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:4OQbg.118$Yu1.51@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:

> Anyone have any special tips for this?
>
> I am struggling mightily with this for my front lower
> driver's side control arm on my 91 Civic LX, 176k miles.
>
> I heated the whole arm in the oven for about half an hour at
> 150 degrees F. I applied soap and then PB Blaster. I did not
> clean the control arm bushing holes hardly at all, though. I
> have to get some emery cloth.
>
> Out of stupidity, while trying to install the new bushings,
> I already somewhat mushroomed the bolt holes but I think I
> recovered from that. I got the large one in but then, while
> recovering from the mushrooming, it slipped out again.
>
> I got the arm off easily this morning (all except the radius
> rod bolts had been previously freed). I had problems all day
> getting the outer sleeve of the bushings free. I cut out the
> inner sleeve and rubber pretty easily, per my earlier thread
> on this. But the outer sleeves seemed much tighter compared
> to my practice control arm of a few weeks ago. Exhausting...
>
> I see cautions in various auto newsgroup archives about
> banging too much on the control arms. I am prepared to buy
> one second hand from a junkyard, if need be. Also, it has
> been so laborious today that I may very well take the
> passenger side's control arm to my local Napa, which does
> have bushing press service.
>
> At this point I am thinking that, certainly for older cars,
> replacing the bushings one's self is a huge roll of the dice
> without industrial equipment. My experiment is largely a
> failure.
>
>
>

Maybe you can buy a cheap arbor press from Harbor Freight.
preferably a local store so you don't have to pay shipping on such a heavy
item.

Cut/drill some plywood for press fixtures.Maybe use dowels to keep the bolt
holes undistorted.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:4OQbg.118$Yu1.51@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:

> Anyone have any special tips for this?
>
> I am struggling mightily with this for my front lower
> driver's side control arm on my 91 Civic LX, 176k miles.
>
> I heated the whole arm in the oven for about half an hour at
> 150 degrees F. I applied soap and then PB Blaster. I did not
> clean the control arm bushing holes hardly at all, though. I
> have to get some emery cloth.
>
> Out of stupidity, while trying to install the new bushings,
> I already somewhat mushroomed the bolt holes but I think I
> recovered from that. I got the large one in but then, while
> recovering from the mushrooming, it slipped out again.
>
> I got the arm off easily this morning (all except the radius
> rod bolts had been previously freed). I had problems all day
> getting the outer sleeve of the bushings free. I cut out the
> inner sleeve and rubber pretty easily, per my earlier thread
> on this. But the outer sleeves seemed much tighter compared
> to my practice control arm of a few weeks ago. Exhausting...
>
> I see cautions in various auto newsgroup archives about
> banging too much on the control arms. I am prepared to buy
> one second hand from a junkyard, if need be. Also, it has
> been so laborious today that I may very well take the
> passenger side's control arm to my local Napa, which does
> have bushing press service.
>
> At this point I am thinking that, certainly for older cars,
> replacing the bushings one's self is a huge roll of the dice
> without industrial equipment. My experiment is largely a
> failure.
>
>
>

Maybe you can buy a cheap arbor press from Harbor Freight.
preferably a local store so you don't have to pay shipping on such a heavy
item.

Cut/drill some plywood for press fixtures.Maybe use dowels to keep the bolt
holes undistorted.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:4OQbg.118$Yu1.51@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:

> Anyone have any special tips for this?
>
> I am struggling mightily with this for my front lower
> driver's side control arm on my 91 Civic LX, 176k miles.
>
> I heated the whole arm in the oven for about half an hour at
> 150 degrees F. I applied soap and then PB Blaster. I did not
> clean the control arm bushing holes hardly at all, though. I
> have to get some emery cloth.
>
> Out of stupidity, while trying to install the new bushings,
> I already somewhat mushroomed the bolt holes but I think I
> recovered from that. I got the large one in but then, while
> recovering from the mushrooming, it slipped out again.
>
> I got the arm off easily this morning (all except the radius
> rod bolts had been previously freed). I had problems all day
> getting the outer sleeve of the bushings free. I cut out the
> inner sleeve and rubber pretty easily, per my earlier thread
> on this. But the outer sleeves seemed much tighter compared
> to my practice control arm of a few weeks ago. Exhausting...
>
> I see cautions in various auto newsgroup archives about
> banging too much on the control arms. I am prepared to buy
> one second hand from a junkyard, if need be. Also, it has
> been so laborious today that I may very well take the
> passenger side's control arm to my local Napa, which does
> have bushing press service.
>
> At this point I am thinking that, certainly for older cars,
> replacing the bushings one's self is a huge roll of the dice
> without industrial equipment. My experiment is largely a
> failure.
>
>
>

Maybe you can buy a cheap arbor press from Harbor Freight.
preferably a local store so you don't have to pay shipping on such a heavy
item.

Cut/drill some plywood for press fixtures.Maybe use dowels to keep the bolt
holes undistorted.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Michael Pardee

"Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
news:44709700$0$24227$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> No, thanks. I learned after the brake drums in the dish washer.
>
> Earle
>
LOL! I used a stainless steel mixing bowl for cleaning parts and learned the
meaning of "ritually unclean." No matter what it goes through it will never
be usable for food... says the boss.

Mike

Michael Pardee

"Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
news:44709700$0$24227$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> No, thanks. I learned after the brake drums in the dish washer.
>
> Earle
>
LOL! I used a stainless steel mixing bowl for cleaning parts and learned the
meaning of "ritually unclean." No matter what it goes through it will never
be usable for food... says the boss.

Mike

Michael Pardee

"Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
news:44709700$0$24227$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> No, thanks. I learned after the brake drums in the dish washer.
>
> Earle
>
LOL! I used a stainless steel mixing bowl for cleaning parts and learned the
meaning of "ritually unclean." No matter what it goes through it will never
be usable for food... says the boss.

Mike

Jim Yanik

Grumpy AuContraire <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in
news:4470F30E.A44B000E@GrumpyvilleNOT.com:

>
>
> "N.E.Ohio Bob" wrote:
>>
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt car. I'm
>> > spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old bolts/nuts still
>> > turn freely...
>> >
>> > JT
>>
>> I'm looking for a rust free '92 Accord 2 door that I can put
>> my
>> drivetrain and interior into. This *#!!ing rust is braking my heart.
>> bob
>
>
> Do occasional searches on Craig's List for Austin, San Antonio and
> Dallas/Ft. Worth. Steer clear of Houston as cars there sort of
> qualify for "rust belt" status.
>
> Of course, you can also check cities in south Arizona and most of
> California. Even Washington and Oregon (near the coast) cars are
> relatively rust free.
>
> JT
>

Include central Florida,but avoid coastal cars;the salt air is equal to a
winter's driving up in NY.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik

Grumpy AuContraire <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in
news:4470F30E.A44B000E@GrumpyvilleNOT.com:

>
>
> "N.E.Ohio Bob" wrote:
>>
>> Grumpy AuContraire wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Gotta give ya credit for doing this work on a rust belt car. I'm
>> > spoiled rotten with Texas tin where fifty year old bolts/nuts still
>> > turn freely...
>> >
>> > JT
>>
>> I'm looking for a rust free '92 Accord 2 door that I can put
>> my
>> drivetrain and interior into. This *#!!ing rust is braking my heart.
>> bob
>
>
> Do occasional searches on Craig's List for Austin, San Antonio and
> Dallas/Ft. Worth. Steer clear of Houston as cars there sort of
> qualify for "rust belt" status.
>
> Of course, you can also check cities in south Arizona and most of
> California. Even Washington and Oregon (near the coast) cars are
> relatively rust free.
>
> JT
>

Include central Florida,but avoid coastal cars;the salt air is equal to a
winter's driving up in NY.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net