It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:LL2dneZ_SbH6_7DbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>>>> Tegger wrote:
>>>>> "Zeek" <cedricbmason@comcast.net> wrote in
>>>>> news:PP-dnSrK_O-M9rHbnZ2dnUVZ_uygnZ2d@comcast.com:
>>>>>
>>>>>> thank you. My problem is finding the tools i listed. Can anyone
>>>>>> tell me where i can find the TOOLS; other than at Honda?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Holder handle 07jab -001020A ,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> holder attachment, 50 mm 07mab -py3010a and
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Socket, 19mm 07jaa-001020a
>>>>>
>>>>> You don't need any of that stuff.
>>>>>
>>>>> Rent a DeWalt electric impact wrench from any industrial rental
>>>>> place for about $25 per day. This thing will spinn the bolt off
>>>>> with so little effort you'll think you're in paradise.
>>>> should have a holding tool when re-torquing the bolt though.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Good point, but only if you've got an automatic.
>>>
>>> With a manual, all you need is somebody to step on the brake pedal
>>> with the tranny in gear.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>
>
>
> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you should be
> doing anyway.
>
you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if there's
too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is uneven - the
more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to momentarily lock
movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be turning the wrench
smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is not resisting smoothly.
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:LL2dneZ_SbH6_7DbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>>>> Tegger wrote:
>>>>> "Zeek" <cedricbmason@comcast.net> wrote in
>>>>> news:PP-dnSrK_O-M9rHbnZ2dnUVZ_uygnZ2d@comcast.com:
>>>>>
>>>>>> thank you. My problem is finding the tools i listed. Can anyone
>>>>>> tell me where i can find the TOOLS; other than at Honda?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Holder handle 07jab -001020A ,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> holder attachment, 50 mm 07mab -py3010a and
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Socket, 19mm 07jaa-001020a
>>>>>
>>>>> You don't need any of that stuff.
>>>>>
>>>>> Rent a DeWalt electric impact wrench from any industrial rental
>>>>> place for about $25 per day. This thing will spinn the bolt off
>>>>> with so little effort you'll think you're in paradise.
>>>> should have a holding tool when re-torquing the bolt though.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Good point, but only if you've got an automatic.
>>>
>>> With a manual, all you need is somebody to step on the brake pedal
>>> with the tranny in gear.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>
>
>
> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you should be
> doing anyway.
>
you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if there's
too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is uneven - the
more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to momentarily lock
movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be turning the wrench
smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is not resisting smoothly.
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
> Tegger wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>>>
>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>
>>
>>
>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>> should be doing anyway.
>>
> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
> not resisting smoothly.
>
Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
friction disc springs.
If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
torque wrench.
Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
tough, wouldn't it?
When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
to bolt a holder in place.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
> Tegger wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>>>
>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>
>>
>>
>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>> should be doing anyway.
>>
> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
> not resisting smoothly.
>
Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
friction disc springs.
If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
torque wrench.
Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
tough, wouldn't it?
When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
to bolt a holder in place.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
> Tegger wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>>>
>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>
>>
>>
>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>> should be doing anyway.
>>
> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
> not resisting smoothly.
>
Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
friction disc springs.
If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
torque wrench.
Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
tough, wouldn't it?
When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
to bolt a holder in place.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
> Tegger wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>>>
>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>
>>
>>
>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>> should be doing anyway.
>>
> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
> not resisting smoothly.
>
Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
friction disc springs.
If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
torque wrench.
Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
tough, wouldn't it?
When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
to bolt a holder in place.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>
>>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>>> should be doing anyway.
>>>
>> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
>> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
>> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
>> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
>> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
>> not resisting smoothly.
>>
>
>
>
> Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
> negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
> friction disc springs.
the springs are a good point - i'd overlooked that!
technically though, you can't rely on long elastic paths of travel for
this stuff. if you look at strain gauges when torquing bolts, it's
actually a series of lurches. springiness in the system allows more
deflection per lurch, and will often omit the final stage. that's why
you have torque extensions for impact tools - you can apply big torque
at one end, but the other end won't over-tighten. correspondingly,
"stiff" pulley bolts are devils to manually loosen with 1/2" extensions,
but they come off easy with 3/4" tools. same applied torque in either case.
>
> If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
> up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
> predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
> torque wrench.
>
> Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
> bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
> tough, wouldn't it?
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
>
> Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
> to bolt a holder in place.
>
>
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>
>>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>>> should be doing anyway.
>>>
>> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
>> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
>> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
>> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
>> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
>> not resisting smoothly.
>>
>
>
>
> Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
> negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
> friction disc springs.
the springs are a good point - i'd overlooked that!
technically though, you can't rely on long elastic paths of travel for
this stuff. if you look at strain gauges when torquing bolts, it's
actually a series of lurches. springiness in the system allows more
deflection per lurch, and will often omit the final stage. that's why
you have torque extensions for impact tools - you can apply big torque
at one end, but the other end won't over-tighten. correspondingly,
"stiff" pulley bolts are devils to manually loosen with 1/2" extensions,
but they come off easy with 3/4" tools. same applied torque in either case.
>
> If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
> up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
> predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
> torque wrench.
>
> Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
> bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
> tough, wouldn't it?
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
>
> Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
> to bolt a holder in place.
>
>
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>
>>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>>> should be doing anyway.
>>>
>> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
>> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
>> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
>> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
>> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
>> not resisting smoothly.
>>
>
>
>
> Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
> negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
> friction disc springs.
the springs are a good point - i'd overlooked that!
technically though, you can't rely on long elastic paths of travel for
this stuff. if you look at strain gauges when torquing bolts, it's
actually a series of lurches. springiness in the system allows more
deflection per lurch, and will often omit the final stage. that's why
you have torque extensions for impact tools - you can apply big torque
at one end, but the other end won't over-tighten. correspondingly,
"stiff" pulley bolts are devils to manually loosen with 1/2" extensions,
but they come off easy with 3/4" tools. same applied torque in either case.
>
> If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
> up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
> predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
> torque wrench.
>
> Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
> bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
> tough, wouldn't it?
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
>
> Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
> to bolt a holder in place.
>
>
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:V_GdnXGTW-OxZrDbnZ2dnUVZ_u2mnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:LL2dneF_SbE4_rDbnZ2dnUVZ_sLinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>
>>>> still better to have the holding tool - theres a fair amount of lash
>>>> in the system holding the crank with the transmission, and that
>>>> affects ability to set torque correctly.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It has no effect provided you turn the wrench smoothly, which you
>>> should be doing anyway.
>>>
>> you'd think, but in practice, it's very hard to get it right if
>> there's too much elasticity. friction of the bolt interfaces is
>> uneven - the more elasticity, the more opportunity for friction to
>> momentarily lock movement. to put it another way, /you/ may be
>> turning the wrench smoothly, but with excess elasticity, the crank is
>> not resisting smoothly.
>>
>
>
>
> Resistance is quite regular and smooth, actually. Drivetrain lash is
> negligible compared to the amount of compression undergone by the clutch
> friction disc springs.
the springs are a good point - i'd overlooked that!
technically though, you can't rely on long elastic paths of travel for
this stuff. if you look at strain gauges when torquing bolts, it's
actually a series of lurches. springiness in the system allows more
deflection per lurch, and will often omit the final stage. that's why
you have torque extensions for impact tools - you can apply big torque
at one end, but the other end won't over-tighten. correspondingly,
"stiff" pulley bolts are devils to manually loosen with 1/2" extensions,
but they come off easy with 3/4" tools. same applied torque in either case.
>
> If you have a helper step on the brakes, you feel the lash being taken
> up, then you feel the clutch springs compressing. It's fairly
> predictable, and amounts to having a really long extension on your
> torque wrench.
>
> Now if you had an automatic, how would you hold the pulley still for
> bolt-tightening without a proper pulley-holder tool? That would be
> tough, wouldn't it?
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
>
> Luckily, Toyota designed the pulley in such a way that it was possible
> to bolt a holder in place.
>
>
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
In article <Xns991C658373BD3tegger@207.14.116.130>,
Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Nice tool! Can you make me one? ;-)
How about putting some thin nylon rope in the number 1 cylinder as it
comes up on compression stroke? Kind of a PITA, but it works.
I have heard of people using an impact wrench to tighten the crankshaft
bolt. Kind of scary if you ask me...
Pigeon
Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Nice tool! Can you make me one? ;-)
How about putting some thin nylon rope in the number 1 cylinder as it
comes up on compression stroke? Kind of a PITA, but it works.
I have heard of people using an impact wrench to tighten the crankshaft
bolt. Kind of scary if you ask me...
Pigeon
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: It's time to change my Timing Belt on a 95 honda accord v6...
In article <Xns991C658373BD3tegger@207.14.116.130>,
Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Nice tool! Can you make me one? ;-)
How about putting some thin nylon rope in the number 1 cylinder as it
comes up on compression stroke? Kind of a PITA, but it works.
I have heard of people using an impact wrench to tighten the crankshaft
bolt. Kind of scary if you ask me...
Pigeon
Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
> When I did my wife's (automatic) Tercel's timing belt last year, I had
> to fabricate a simple tool to hold the pulley still. It's just a three-
> foot length of steel with two holes drilled in it.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...ulley_tool.jpg
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...tool_close.jpg
Nice tool! Can you make me one? ;-)
How about putting some thin nylon rope in the number 1 cylinder as it
comes up on compression stroke? Kind of a PITA, but it works.
I have heard of people using an impact wrench to tighten the crankshaft
bolt. Kind of scary if you ask me...
Pigeon
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