just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?
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Re: just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?
Caroline wrote:
>
><SNIP>
>
> George M., Tegger, Curly, and some others gave me some advice on the impact gun
> earlier, so I think I'm set on this route.
>
> Thanks for the additional detail on your tool. I put it in my notes.
>
>
++++++++++++++++++++++++=
Just keep the laws of physics in mind when using an air tool.
'Something's gotta give' if the nut doesn't move, you'll (I'm joking)
tear your arms off if you're a skinny chicken like me :-) :-)
(having removed a few nuts by locking my arms under the bumper and
'standing' horizontally, on the breaker bar)
'Curly'
--
To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.
Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
you should not play any notes you have left over. -
>
><SNIP>
>
> George M., Tegger, Curly, and some others gave me some advice on the impact gun
> earlier, so I think I'm set on this route.
>
> Thanks for the additional detail on your tool. I put it in my notes.
>
>
++++++++++++++++++++++++=
Just keep the laws of physics in mind when using an air tool.
'Something's gotta give' if the nut doesn't move, you'll (I'm joking)
tear your arms off if you're a skinny chicken like me :-) :-)
(having removed a few nuts by locking my arms under the bumper and
'standing' horizontally, on the breaker bar)
'Curly'
--
To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.
Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
you should not play any notes you have left over. -
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?
Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<40AA7525.45AFF334@spam.now>...
> Caroline wrote:
> >
> > I'm keeping my eyes peeled for scrap iron with dimensions like you
> > suggest. Maybe Home Depot sells bars of the stuff, worst case. I can
> > swing a titanium drill bit and have cutting oil, of course.
>
> You likely won't need a titanium bit. A standard high-speed steel bit
> should work just fine. I happen to have a set of cobalt bits so that's what
> I used but it was over kill.
have a decent impact on hand, i never use the holders. a 1990 timing
belt may take 45 min. at most if you know what you are doing. A 1999
accord 4cyl has so much more room it's rediculous.
Chip
> Caroline wrote:
> >
> > I'm keeping my eyes peeled for scrap iron with dimensions like you
> > suggest. Maybe Home Depot sells bars of the stuff, worst case. I can
> > swing a titanium drill bit and have cutting oil, of course.
>
> You likely won't need a titanium bit. A standard high-speed steel bit
> should work just fine. I happen to have a set of cobalt bits so that's what
> I used but it was over kill.
have a decent impact on hand, i never use the holders. a 1990 timing
belt may take 45 min. at most if you know what you are doing. A 1999
accord 4cyl has so much more room it's rediculous.
Chip
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Re: just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?
I've changed a few timing belts on Hondas and the best tool I've used is a
chain wrench. I use an old a/c belt and wrap it around the pulley in the
groove then the chain wrench on the belt and pulley. Then I attach a S hook
to a foot long heavy duty chain and the another S hook on the toe hook. Then
I put a breaker bar on and push it off with my feet. The belt protects the
pulley from the bite of the chain wrench and the nut comes off pretty easy.
I'll take some pictures this week so you can "see" what I mean.
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:40A9C69E.15A4D05D@spam.now...
> Caroline wrote:
>>
>> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
>> > The tool I made uses two bolts which act as pins to go
>> > through the holes in the crankshaft pulley. The bolts are attached to
>> > a
>> > heavy iron bar. For this, I obtained a piece of scrap for free from an
>> > ornamental iron works shop. It's a section of top railing about 2 feet
>> > long. The bolts are inserted into the holes in the pulley and the bar
>> > prevents the engine from turning by swinging up against the suspension
>> > as the pulley bolt is loosened. The Honda tool only has one pin and
>> > uses their special socket to provide a second pin. If you make a tool,
>> > you may want to use high grade bolts, e.g., grade 8 or equivalent.
>>
>> Thanks. Using your description, along with the photo and description at
>> http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html , I think I have a
>> much better picture of how your tool works.
>
> The pulley holder that I've made is somewhat similar in concept to the one
> pictured in that link. However, I have the bolts going through the bar.
> The bar is actually a shallow U shape that's flat on one side. The bolts
> protrude from the flat side which is the side that's put up against the
> crank pulley. I put nuts on the bolts on the back side of the pulley to
> help hold the bar to the pulley. In my prior post I recommended using
> 7/16"
> bolts since they were close to 12mm. However, I didn't have those around
> so
> I used 10x1.25x40mm bolts which protrude roughly 36mm from the flat side
> of
> the bar. The following rough sketches may give you a better picture
> (though
> they are not to scale).
>
> | _______ | | | <--3"--> | >
> End view |\___|___|___|___/| Side view |____|__________|________>
> | | | | | |
> | | | | | |
> | | | | | |
>
>> I appreciate your passing along the bolt hole dimensions. I'll try the
>> bolts you suggest next time I'm under the car around June. I'm going to
>> try making your tool or one a lot like it, first. For kicks, I'm
>> wondering if I can squeeze a 2 x 4 in there (in place of your 2-foot
>> length of steel which gets two holes drilled in it, etc.) and if the
>> wood can take the stress. I'll run some calculations.
>
> Even if a wooden 2x4 will fit in the space available (which I doubt), I
> don't think it will take the stress without cracking. Though, if you do
> succeed with the 2x4 then I'm sure you'll post back to let us know.
> Drilling in steel is not that big of a deal, just make sure that you use a
> sharp center punch to mark your holes so your drill bit doesn't walk.
>
>> Worst case, sounds like I'll have to play around a bit to get the
>> "home-made pulley holder tool" and 17 mm socket wrench with long breaker
>> bar properly positioned. The guy at the site above says he did it with a
>> 5-foot length of pipe over the breaker bar.
>
> I only needed a two foot long breaker bar to loosen my crank pulley bolt
> using the holder tool I made.
>
>> I realize I can always try the air impact wrench route, too.
>
> Yes, that's always an option as well. In my area it's possible to rent a
> small air compressor from Home Depot for about $26/day though I don't know
> what they charge for a 1/2" drive impact gun. If you're in a hurry and
> know
> that you'll only need the compressor for a day or two, then this might be
> the way to go. However, if you need it for a longer period of time, then
> $26/day can add up pretty fast and it may be more economical to build a
> pulley holder.
>
> Eric
chain wrench. I use an old a/c belt and wrap it around the pulley in the
groove then the chain wrench on the belt and pulley. Then I attach a S hook
to a foot long heavy duty chain and the another S hook on the toe hook. Then
I put a breaker bar on and push it off with my feet. The belt protects the
pulley from the bite of the chain wrench and the nut comes off pretty easy.
I'll take some pictures this week so you can "see" what I mean.
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:40A9C69E.15A4D05D@spam.now...
> Caroline wrote:
>>
>> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
>> > The tool I made uses two bolts which act as pins to go
>> > through the holes in the crankshaft pulley. The bolts are attached to
>> > a
>> > heavy iron bar. For this, I obtained a piece of scrap for free from an
>> > ornamental iron works shop. It's a section of top railing about 2 feet
>> > long. The bolts are inserted into the holes in the pulley and the bar
>> > prevents the engine from turning by swinging up against the suspension
>> > as the pulley bolt is loosened. The Honda tool only has one pin and
>> > uses their special socket to provide a second pin. If you make a tool,
>> > you may want to use high grade bolts, e.g., grade 8 or equivalent.
>>
>> Thanks. Using your description, along with the photo and description at
>> http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html , I think I have a
>> much better picture of how your tool works.
>
> The pulley holder that I've made is somewhat similar in concept to the one
> pictured in that link. However, I have the bolts going through the bar.
> The bar is actually a shallow U shape that's flat on one side. The bolts
> protrude from the flat side which is the side that's put up against the
> crank pulley. I put nuts on the bolts on the back side of the pulley to
> help hold the bar to the pulley. In my prior post I recommended using
> 7/16"
> bolts since they were close to 12mm. However, I didn't have those around
> so
> I used 10x1.25x40mm bolts which protrude roughly 36mm from the flat side
> of
> the bar. The following rough sketches may give you a better picture
> (though
> they are not to scale).
>
> | _______ | | | <--3"--> | >
> End view |\___|___|___|___/| Side view |____|__________|________>
> | | | | | |
> | | | | | |
> | | | | | |
>
>> I appreciate your passing along the bolt hole dimensions. I'll try the
>> bolts you suggest next time I'm under the car around June. I'm going to
>> try making your tool or one a lot like it, first. For kicks, I'm
>> wondering if I can squeeze a 2 x 4 in there (in place of your 2-foot
>> length of steel which gets two holes drilled in it, etc.) and if the
>> wood can take the stress. I'll run some calculations.
>
> Even if a wooden 2x4 will fit in the space available (which I doubt), I
> don't think it will take the stress without cracking. Though, if you do
> succeed with the 2x4 then I'm sure you'll post back to let us know.
> Drilling in steel is not that big of a deal, just make sure that you use a
> sharp center punch to mark your holes so your drill bit doesn't walk.
>
>> Worst case, sounds like I'll have to play around a bit to get the
>> "home-made pulley holder tool" and 17 mm socket wrench with long breaker
>> bar properly positioned. The guy at the site above says he did it with a
>> 5-foot length of pipe over the breaker bar.
>
> I only needed a two foot long breaker bar to loosen my crank pulley bolt
> using the holder tool I made.
>
>> I realize I can always try the air impact wrench route, too.
>
> Yes, that's always an option as well. In my area it's possible to rent a
> small air compressor from Home Depot for about $26/day though I don't know
> what they charge for a 1/2" drive impact gun. If you're in a hurry and
> know
> that you'll only need the compressor for a day or two, then this might be
> the way to go. However, if you need it for a longer period of time, then
> $26/day can add up pretty fast and it may be more economical to build a
> pulley holder.
>
> Eric
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Re: just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?
Rich Gray wrote:
>
> I've changed a few timing belts on Hondas and the best tool I've used is a
> chain wrench. I use an old a/c belt and wrap it around the pulley in the
> groove then the chain wrench on the belt and pulley. Then I attach a S hook
> to a foot long heavy duty chain and the another S hook on the toe hook. Then
> I put a breaker bar on and push it off with my feet. The belt protects the
> pulley from the bite of the chain wrench and the nut comes off pretty easy.
> I'll take some pictures this week so you can "see" what I mean.
>
=================================
On a '99 He probably needs the 50mm hex tool to hold the flywheel pulley
steady. because there's a rubber harmonic damper built into the pulley,
you can't safely clamp it from the outside (at least not on the Gen 1
CR-V) They're easy to build (see Tegger's FAQ) or you can often get them
on eBay.com
'Curly'
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Re: just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?
"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco_@_interbaun.com> wrote in message
news:430BFA5D.36A80D5A@_interbaun.com...
>
>
> Rich Gray wrote:
>>
>> I've changed a few timing belts on Hondas and the best tool I've used is
>> a
>> chain wrench. I use an old a/c belt and wrap it around the pulley in the
>> groove then the chain wrench on the belt and pulley. Then I attach a S
>> hook
>> to a foot long heavy duty chain and the another S hook on the toe hook.
>> Then
>> I put a breaker bar on and push it off with my feet. The belt protects
>> the
>> pulley from the bite of the chain wrench and the nut comes off pretty
>> easy.
>> I'll take some pictures this week so you can "see" what I mean.
>>
>
> =================================
>
> On a '99 He probably needs the 50mm hex tool to hold the flywheel pulley
> steady. because there's a rubber harmonic damper built into the pulley,
> you can't safely clamp it from the outside (at least not on the Gen 1
> CR-V) They're easy to build (see Tegger's FAQ) or you can often get them
> on eBay.com
>
> 'Curly'
I bought one of these
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=629
and it did a great job.
Mike
news:430BFA5D.36A80D5A@_interbaun.com...
>
>
> Rich Gray wrote:
>>
>> I've changed a few timing belts on Hondas and the best tool I've used is
>> a
>> chain wrench. I use an old a/c belt and wrap it around the pulley in the
>> groove then the chain wrench on the belt and pulley. Then I attach a S
>> hook
>> to a foot long heavy duty chain and the another S hook on the toe hook.
>> Then
>> I put a breaker bar on and push it off with my feet. The belt protects
>> the
>> pulley from the bite of the chain wrench and the nut comes off pretty
>> easy.
>> I'll take some pictures this week so you can "see" what I mean.
>>
>
> =================================
>
> On a '99 He probably needs the 50mm hex tool to hold the flywheel pulley
> steady. because there's a rubber harmonic damper built into the pulley,
> you can't safely clamp it from the outside (at least not on the Gen 1
> CR-V) They're easy to build (see Tegger's FAQ) or you can often get them
> on eBay.com
>
> 'Curly'
I bought one of these
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=629
and it did a great job.
Mike
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Re: just how hard is it chg timing belt 99 accord?
Michael Pardee wrote:
> I bought one of these
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=629
> and it did a great job.
>
> Mike
==============================
Michael, I built a really nice one for about $5, (using the plumbing
adapter) My time and the welding was free. It doesn't tie up a second
socket handle. I got the idea from the Chilton's manual for Odyssey /
CR-V that has a red CR-V on the cover. Here's the link to Tegger's FAQ
that I alluded to:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt
'Curly'
> I bought one of these
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=629
> and it did a great job.
>
> Mike
==============================
Michael, I built a really nice one for about $5, (using the plumbing
adapter) My time and the welding was free. It doesn't tie up a second
socket handle. I got the idea from the Chilton's manual for Odyssey /
CR-V that has a red CR-V on the cover. Here's the link to Tegger's FAQ
that I alluded to:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#crankbolt
'Curly'
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