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push button start
I have a 95 civic ex 5 speed manual. I'm putting in a push button
start, but I'm not sure what wires to tap into. I have a test light and I'm pretty good with electrical, but does anyone know the exact wire colors to tap into on the ignition. I have my haynes manual, but I'm not to good a reading these diagrams. If anyone knows the wires it would help. I already have to button mounted and I'm going to put an in-line fuse instead of a relay and if anyone knows the exact wire colors to tap into. it would help thanks. |
Re: push button start
<mitsurugi3644@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168627673.545148.69610@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com... >I have a 95 civic ex 5 speed manual. I'm putting in a push button > start, but I'm not sure what wires to tap into. I have a test light and > I'm pretty good with electrical, but does anyone know the exact wire > colors to tap into on the ignition. I have my haynes manual, but I'm > not to good a reading these diagrams. If anyone knows the wires it > would help. I already have to button mounted and I'm going to put an > in-line fuse instead of a relay and if anyone knows the exact wire > colors to tap into. it would help thanks. I no longer have them memorized, but here is how you figure it out for ANY car... Stop using a test light! They are only good for circuits that you know you can safely work on with a load. This particular project a test light is fine for, but what about your next project? Probe the wrong wire with a test light and you fry a circuit. When in doubt, use a multimeter. Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the key is in the crank position. Other wires in that bundle... Constant 12v - Always 12v Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want to power unnecessary items during crank) Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed during RUN and CRANK) Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. |
Re: push button start
<mitsurugi3644@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168627673.545148.69610@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com... >I have a 95 civic ex 5 speed manual. I'm putting in a push button > start, but I'm not sure what wires to tap into. I have a test light and > I'm pretty good with electrical, but does anyone know the exact wire > colors to tap into on the ignition. I have my haynes manual, but I'm > not to good a reading these diagrams. If anyone knows the wires it > would help. I already have to button mounted and I'm going to put an > in-line fuse instead of a relay and if anyone knows the exact wire > colors to tap into. it would help thanks. I no longer have them memorized, but here is how you figure it out for ANY car... Stop using a test light! They are only good for circuits that you know you can safely work on with a load. This particular project a test light is fine for, but what about your next project? Probe the wrong wire with a test light and you fry a circuit. When in doubt, use a multimeter. Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the key is in the crank position. Other wires in that bundle... Constant 12v - Always 12v Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want to power unnecessary items during crank) Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed during RUN and CRANK) Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. |
Re: push button start
<mitsurugi3644@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168627673.545148.69610@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com... >I have a 95 civic ex 5 speed manual. I'm putting in a push button > start, but I'm not sure what wires to tap into. I have a test light and > I'm pretty good with electrical, but does anyone know the exact wire > colors to tap into on the ignition. I have my haynes manual, but I'm > not to good a reading these diagrams. If anyone knows the wires it > would help. I already have to button mounted and I'm going to put an > in-line fuse instead of a relay and if anyone knows the exact wire > colors to tap into. it would help thanks. I no longer have them memorized, but here is how you figure it out for ANY car... Stop using a test light! They are only good for circuits that you know you can safely work on with a load. This particular project a test light is fine for, but what about your next project? Probe the wrong wire with a test light and you fry a circuit. When in doubt, use a multimeter. Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the key is in the crank position. Other wires in that bundle... Constant 12v - Always 12v Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want to power unnecessary items during crank) Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed during RUN and CRANK) Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. |
Re: push button start
<mitsurugi3644@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168627673.545148.69610@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com... >I have a 95 civic ex 5 speed manual. I'm putting in a push button > start, but I'm not sure what wires to tap into. I have a test light and > I'm pretty good with electrical, but does anyone know the exact wire > colors to tap into on the ignition. I have my haynes manual, but I'm > not to good a reading these diagrams. If anyone knows the wires it > would help. I already have to button mounted and I'm going to put an > in-line fuse instead of a relay and if anyone knows the exact wire > colors to tap into. it would help thanks. I no longer have them memorized, but here is how you figure it out for ANY car... Stop using a test light! They are only good for circuits that you know you can safely work on with a load. This particular project a test light is fine for, but what about your next project? Probe the wrong wire with a test light and you fry a circuit. When in doubt, use a multimeter. Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the key is in the crank position. Other wires in that bundle... Constant 12v - Always 12v Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want to power unnecessary items during crank) Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed during RUN and CRANK) Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. |
Re: push button start
"Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: <snip> > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > key is in the crank position. > > Other wires in that bundle... > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > to power unnecessary items during crank) > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > during RUN and CRANK) > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see the diagrams on this Main Relay page: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the ACC terminal "IG2". -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: push button start
"Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: <snip> > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > key is in the crank position. > > Other wires in that bundle... > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > to power unnecessary items during crank) > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > during RUN and CRANK) > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see the diagrams on this Main Relay page: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the ACC terminal "IG2". -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: push button start
"Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: <snip> > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > key is in the crank position. > > Other wires in that bundle... > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > to power unnecessary items during crank) > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > during RUN and CRANK) > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see the diagrams on this Main Relay page: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the ACC terminal "IG2". -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: push button start
"Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: <snip> > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > key is in the crank position. > > Other wires in that bundle... > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > to power unnecessary items during crank) > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > during RUN and CRANK) > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see the diagrams on this Main Relay page: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the ACC terminal "IG2". -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
Re: push button start
Tegger wrote: > "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: > > <snip> > > > > > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > > key is in the crank position. > > > > Other wires in that bundle... > > > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > > to power unnecessary items during crank) > > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > > during RUN and CRANK) > > > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > > > > > > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. > > If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see > the diagrams on this Main Relay page: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html > And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html > > A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the > ACC terminal "IG2". > > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ So when I'm turning the key to crank the engine whatever 2 wires are hot are the 2 wires that I want to hook up my push button switch to? correct. |
Re: push button start
Tegger wrote: > "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: > > <snip> > > > > > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > > key is in the crank position. > > > > Other wires in that bundle... > > > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > > to power unnecessary items during crank) > > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > > during RUN and CRANK) > > > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > > > > > > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. > > If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see > the diagrams on this Main Relay page: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html > And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html > > A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the > ACC terminal "IG2". > > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ So when I'm turning the key to crank the engine whatever 2 wires are hot are the 2 wires that I want to hook up my push button switch to? correct. |
Re: push button start
Tegger wrote: > "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: > > <snip> > > > > > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > > key is in the crank position. > > > > Other wires in that bundle... > > > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > > to power unnecessary items during crank) > > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > > during RUN and CRANK) > > > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > > > > > > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. > > If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see > the diagrams on this Main Relay page: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html > And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html > > A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the > ACC terminal "IG2". > > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ So when I'm turning the key to crank the engine whatever 2 wires are hot are the 2 wires that I want to hook up my push button switch to? correct. |
Re: push button start
Tegger wrote: > "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: > > <snip> > > > > > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > > key is in the crank position. > > > > Other wires in that bundle... > > > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > > to power unnecessary items during crank) > > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > > during RUN and CRANK) > > > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > > > > > > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. > > If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see > the diagrams on this Main Relay page: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html > And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html > > A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the > ACC terminal "IG2". > > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ So when I'm turning the key to crank the engine whatever 2 wires are hot are the 2 wires that I want to hook up my push button switch to? correct. |
Re: push button start
Tegger wrote: > "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: > > <snip> > > > > > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > > key is in the crank position. > > > > Other wires in that bundle... > > > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > > to power unnecessary items during crank) > > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > > during RUN and CRANK) > > > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > > > > > > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. > > If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see > the diagrams on this Main Relay page: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html > And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html > > A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the > ACC terminal "IG2". > > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ So when I'm turning the key to crank the engine whatever 2 wires are hot are the 2 wires that I want to hook up my push button switch to? correct. |
Re: push button start
Tegger wrote: > "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:oASph.640$3w7.612@newsfe12.lga: > > <snip> > > > > > > Under the dash, high up along the steering column you will find a > > bundle of wires on the right side of the column. Heavy wires (for > > under a dash) usually 10 or 12ga. Check each one for 12v while the > > key is in the crank position. > > > > Other wires in that bundle... > > > > Constant 12v - Always 12v > > Accessory - 12v in Acc and RUN position, dead during crank (don't want > > to power unnecessary items during crank) > > Ignition - 12v in RUN and CRANK position (only power what is needed > > during RUN and CRANK) > > > > Avoid any wire or group of wires in a yellow wiring loom. Those are > > universally used as an indicator of airbag wiring. Short those out > > (or probe them incorrectly) and the airbags will pop. > > > > > > > > Two thumbs up to Seth. He's right on the money. > > If anybody wants a quick snapshot on what the ignition switch wires do, see > the diagrams on this Main Relay page: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html > And see this one for a dissection of the ignition switch: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html > > A quick study of the diagrams will prove Seth's assertions. Honda calls the > ACC terminal "IG2". > > > -- > Tegger > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ So when I'm turning the key to crank the engine whatever 2 wires are hot are the 2 wires that I want to hook up my push button switch to? correct. |
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