Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
#166
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
Polfus wrote:
>
> "Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ッ" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote
>
>> On Fri, 16 May 2008 18:33:02 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>
>>>> So you're of a mind to do it on your own schedule, then, regardless?
>>>>
>>>> No one else can recommend a schedule for you if you want to do it on
>>>> your own.
>>>
>>> if you don't want to follow the manual's service schedule, do oil
>>> analysis. all this blind gut stuff is utterly retarded.
>>
>>
>> WHY THE would I pay for an 'oil analysis' that costs more than
>> CHANGING THE FRIGGING OIL?!?!?!
>
> Dude....you got that right.
>
>> Dude, you make less sense as you go along!
>
> Heh...no .
>
ever heard the expression, "ignorance is temporary, stupid is for ever"?
here's how it works: you use oil analysis to determine the oil change
interval for your regular driving pattern. if analysis determines that
you can extend your change interval to 12k miles, for instance, you get
to save money on your previous change history.
math [and saving money] doesn't get much simpler.
>
> "Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ッ" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote
>
>> On Fri, 16 May 2008 18:33:02 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>
>>>> So you're of a mind to do it on your own schedule, then, regardless?
>>>>
>>>> No one else can recommend a schedule for you if you want to do it on
>>>> your own.
>>>
>>> if you don't want to follow the manual's service schedule, do oil
>>> analysis. all this blind gut stuff is utterly retarded.
>>
>>
>> WHY THE would I pay for an 'oil analysis' that costs more than
>> CHANGING THE FRIGGING OIL?!?!?!
>
> Dude....you got that right.
>
>> Dude, you make less sense as you go along!
>
> Heh...no .
>
ever heard the expression, "ignorance is temporary, stupid is for ever"?
here's how it works: you use oil analysis to determine the oil change
interval for your regular driving pattern. if analysis determines that
you can extend your change interval to 12k miles, for instance, you get
to save money on your previous change history.
math [and saving money] doesn't get much simpler.
#167
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ッ wrote:
> On Sat, 17 May 2008 00:27:06 -0400, Polfus wrote:
>
>
>> And I have *no* plans on keeping my '08 Accord for more than 10 years
>> *MAX*.
>>
>> I'm not a kid and will most certainly purchase another car before I have
>> to worry about getting 200,000 miles on mine.
>
> I used to get a new car every two-three years, not entirely by choice!
> In 1980 I bought a Corolla SR5 Coupe. I liked it and kept it 6 years and
> 244,000 miles. It's replacement was the 'hachiroku' (1985 Corolla GTS
> hatch) Magnificent car. Still in my backyard with 259,000 waiting for the
> rust work to get done. I have an '05 Scion tC coupe I bought in '06, and
> I like that car too.
>
> Add to that an '88 Supra with ~200,000 miles I picked up for $600 4 years
> ago, an '89 Mazda 626 in mint condition for $150, and an '89 Subaru Coupe
> for winter driving. And I change the oil on all of them at 3,000 miles!
> The Scion gets ~7,000 miles a year, the Supra ~10,000, the Mazda ~12,000
> and the Subaru ~6,000. I change the oil on the Supra and the Subaru when
> they get parked for the season, then I drain that and put in fresh oil
> when they come back into service. The Scion gets synthetic every 4,500.
>
> All in all, cheap insurance. I wish I knew what moonbeam has against
> changing oil.
>
3.5 quarts at $3.00 each = $10.50
1 filter = $4.00
call it $15.00 with drain plug washer.
oil analysis costs $22.50 [blackstone].
4 changes at 3000 miles each = $60.00
1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis = $37.50
what? you don't work for nasa???
> On Sat, 17 May 2008 00:27:06 -0400, Polfus wrote:
>
>
>> And I have *no* plans on keeping my '08 Accord for more than 10 years
>> *MAX*.
>>
>> I'm not a kid and will most certainly purchase another car before I have
>> to worry about getting 200,000 miles on mine.
>
> I used to get a new car every two-three years, not entirely by choice!
> In 1980 I bought a Corolla SR5 Coupe. I liked it and kept it 6 years and
> 244,000 miles. It's replacement was the 'hachiroku' (1985 Corolla GTS
> hatch) Magnificent car. Still in my backyard with 259,000 waiting for the
> rust work to get done. I have an '05 Scion tC coupe I bought in '06, and
> I like that car too.
>
> Add to that an '88 Supra with ~200,000 miles I picked up for $600 4 years
> ago, an '89 Mazda 626 in mint condition for $150, and an '89 Subaru Coupe
> for winter driving. And I change the oil on all of them at 3,000 miles!
> The Scion gets ~7,000 miles a year, the Supra ~10,000, the Mazda ~12,000
> and the Subaru ~6,000. I change the oil on the Supra and the Subaru when
> they get parked for the season, then I drain that and put in fresh oil
> when they come back into service. The Scion gets synthetic every 4,500.
>
> All in all, cheap insurance. I wish I knew what moonbeam has against
> changing oil.
>
3.5 quarts at $3.00 each = $10.50
1 filter = $4.00
call it $15.00 with drain plug washer.
oil analysis costs $22.50 [blackstone].
4 changes at 3000 miles each = $60.00
1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis = $37.50
what? you don't work for nasa???
#168
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ッ wrote:
> On Thu, 15 May 2008 20:01:32 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> Good for you.
>>>
>>> The manual says every 7,500 miles. So, why is 5,000 better than 7,500?
>>> Or better than 3,000? Let's see what jim moonbeam has to say about this.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> i say that, given that i can't be bothered to do the tribology myself, but
>> as someone that has done analysis on engine wear, reading the freakin'
>> book is the way to go. not too hard. unless you can't read. or get past
>> the first paragraph of "blather".
>
>
> Let's add something else. On the 10,000 mile service for my last new car,
> the S.M. had them drill points on the suspension and add Zerk fittings.
> Tha factory said the suspension was lubed for the life of the car. Why do
> you suppose the S.M. did that, at no charge?
>
>
it's called "profit". drilling a grease nipple into a joint /after/
assembly damages the joint and contaminates it. thus reducing life.
and each subsequent grease injection can introduce more contamination too.
so, as a one-man profit center, you're an unscrupulous service manager's
dream. that's not "no charge".
> On Thu, 15 May 2008 20:01:32 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> Good for you.
>>>
>>> The manual says every 7,500 miles. So, why is 5,000 better than 7,500?
>>> Or better than 3,000? Let's see what jim moonbeam has to say about this.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> i say that, given that i can't be bothered to do the tribology myself, but
>> as someone that has done analysis on engine wear, reading the freakin'
>> book is the way to go. not too hard. unless you can't read. or get past
>> the first paragraph of "blather".
>
>
> Let's add something else. On the 10,000 mile service for my last new car,
> the S.M. had them drill points on the suspension and add Zerk fittings.
> Tha factory said the suspension was lubed for the life of the car. Why do
> you suppose the S.M. did that, at no charge?
>
>
it's called "profit". drilling a grease nipple into a joint /after/
assembly damages the joint and contaminates it. thus reducing life.
and each subsequent grease injection can introduce more contamination too.
so, as a one-man profit center, you're an unscrupulous service manager's
dream. that's not "no charge".
#169
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote
> 3.5 quarts at $3.00 each = $10.50
> 1 filter = $4.00
> call it $15.00 with drain plug washer.
> oil analysis costs $22.50 [blackstone].
Plus $5.00 S&H.
Corrected:
> 4 changes at 3000 miles each = $60.00
Corrected:
2 changes at 6,000 miles each, and filter changes every other oil change,
and drain plugs = $26.00
> 1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis = $42.50
I'm still at $26.00.
> what? you don't work for nasa???
Do *YOU* change your oil every 12,000 miles?
If so, then knock yourself out.
Polfus
#170
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote
> ever heard the expression, "ignorance is temporary, stupid is for ever"?
ever heard the expression, "you're an "?
> here's how it works: you use oil analysis to determine the oil change
> interval for your regular driving pattern. if analysis determines that
> you can extend your change interval to 12k miles, for instance, you get to
> save money on your previous change history.
Re-read what you ignored about this point.
> math [and saving money] doesn't get much simpler.
I tell you what...*you* change your oil every 12,000 miles and enjoy
yourself.
Good luck with that.
Polfus
#171
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Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
Polfus wrote:
>
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote
>
>> 3.5 quarts at $3.00 each = $10.50
>> 1 filter = $4.00
>
>> call it $15.00 with drain plug washer.
>
>> oil analysis costs $22.50 [blackstone].
>
> Plus $5.00 S&H.
>
> Corrected:
>
>> 4 changes at 3000 miles each = $60.00
>
> Corrected:
>
> 2 changes at 6,000 miles each, and filter changes every other oil
> change,
filter every other time? that's not clever.
> and drain plugs = $26.00
you're either dishonest or delusional. you've stated many times how you
do your changes yourself every 3k, 4.5k for synthetic. now here you are
suddenly at 6k.
>
>> 1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis = $42.50
>
> I'm still at $26.00.
>
>> what? you don't work for nasa???
>
> Do *YOU* change your oil every 12,000 miles?
actually, based on my usage, i go 12k.
>
> If so, then knock yourself out.
i'd much rather introduce you to reality. for a 6k change interval,
over 24k we can still say:
4 x $15 = $60 for the blind faith approach.
vs.
2 x $15 = $30
+ 1 analysis $27.50 [only needs to be done every 30-50k]
that's $57.50. analysis still saves you money.
over 48k we have
8 x $15 = $120 blind faith.
vs.
4 x $15 = $60
+ 2 x analysis = $55
that's $115 saving money /and/ knowing the health of your engine. seems
like a real easy decision to make to me.
>
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote
>
>> 3.5 quarts at $3.00 each = $10.50
>> 1 filter = $4.00
>
>> call it $15.00 with drain plug washer.
>
>> oil analysis costs $22.50 [blackstone].
>
> Plus $5.00 S&H.
>
> Corrected:
>
>> 4 changes at 3000 miles each = $60.00
>
> Corrected:
>
> 2 changes at 6,000 miles each, and filter changes every other oil
> change,
filter every other time? that's not clever.
> and drain plugs = $26.00
you're either dishonest or delusional. you've stated many times how you
do your changes yourself every 3k, 4.5k for synthetic. now here you are
suddenly at 6k.
>
>> 1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis = $42.50
>
> I'm still at $26.00.
>
>> what? you don't work for nasa???
>
> Do *YOU* change your oil every 12,000 miles?
actually, based on my usage, i go 12k.
>
> If so, then knock yourself out.
i'd much rather introduce you to reality. for a 6k change interval,
over 24k we can still say:
4 x $15 = $60 for the blind faith approach.
vs.
2 x $15 = $30
+ 1 analysis $27.50 [only needs to be done every 30-50k]
that's $57.50. analysis still saves you money.
over 48k we have
8 x $15 = $120 blind faith.
vs.
4 x $15 = $60
+ 2 x analysis = $55
that's $115 saving money /and/ knowing the health of your engine. seems
like a real easy decision to make to me.
#172
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 10:16:29 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>> Let's add something else. On the 10,000 mile service for my last new
>> car, the S.M. had them drill points on the suspension and add Zerk
>> fittings. Tha factory said the suspension was lubed for the life of the
>> car. Why do you suppose the S.M. did that, at no charge?
>>
>>
>>
>
> it's called "profit". drilling a grease nipple into a joint /after/
> assembly damages the joint and contaminates it. thus reducing life. and
> each subsequent grease injection can introduce more contamination too.
>
> so, as a one-man profit center, you're an unscrupulous service manager's
> dream. that's not "no charge".
As the drill turns, since you're drilling from the bottom, the havings
fall away. Those that don't get driven out when fresh grease is installed.
The fittings were put in in 1986. The car was being driven until 2003. No
damage to rack and pinion, and still on original ball joints wher the
grease fittings were added.
I guess that *really* paid off for them, eh?
>> Let's add something else. On the 10,000 mile service for my last new
>> car, the S.M. had them drill points on the suspension and add Zerk
>> fittings. Tha factory said the suspension was lubed for the life of the
>> car. Why do you suppose the S.M. did that, at no charge?
>>
>>
>>
>
> it's called "profit". drilling a grease nipple into a joint /after/
> assembly damages the joint and contaminates it. thus reducing life. and
> each subsequent grease injection can introduce more contamination too.
>
> so, as a one-man profit center, you're an unscrupulous service manager's
> dream. that's not "no charge".
As the drill turns, since you're drilling from the bottom, the havings
fall away. Those that don't get driven out when fresh grease is installed.
The fittings were put in in 1986. The car was being driven until 2003. No
damage to rack and pinion, and still on original ball joints wher the
grease fittings were added.
I guess that *really* paid off for them, eh?
#173
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 08:34:53 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>> The Mobil 1 that's on the shelves today bears little resemblance to the
>> Mobil 1 that was introduced, when--30+ years ago?
>>
>>
>
> indeed.
>
> in short, there are three types of "synthetic". group v, ester based,
> group iv, olefin based, and group iii, highly refined mineral oils.
>
> most modern "synthetics" are group iii, the others being much too
> expensive. and utterly irrelevant if they're not properly used, i.e.
> discarded after only 4500 miles!
How is that 'irrelevant'? Should we wait until the oil is thoroughly
contaminated before changing it?
For the life of me, I can't see how changing the oil 500 miles early
'damages' anything. Please explain this.
>> The Mobil 1 that's on the shelves today bears little resemblance to the
>> Mobil 1 that was introduced, when--30+ years ago?
>>
>>
>
> indeed.
>
> in short, there are three types of "synthetic". group v, ester based,
> group iv, olefin based, and group iii, highly refined mineral oils.
>
> most modern "synthetics" are group iii, the others being much too
> expensive. and utterly irrelevant if they're not properly used, i.e.
> discarded after only 4500 miles!
How is that 'irrelevant'? Should we wait until the oil is thoroughly
contaminated before changing it?
For the life of me, I can't see how changing the oil 500 miles early
'damages' anything. Please explain this.
#174
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 08:52:25 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>> Add to that an '88 Supra with ~200,000 miles I picked up for $600 4
>> years ago, an '89 Mazda 626 in mint condition for $150, and an '89
>> Subaru Coupe for winter driving. And I change the oil on all of them at
>> 3,000 miles! The Scion gets ~7,000 miles a year, the Supra ~10,000, the
>> Mazda ~12,000 and the Subaru ~6,000. I change the oil on the Supra and
>> the Subaru when they get parked for the season, then I drain that and
>> put in fresh oil when they come back into service. The Scion gets
>> synthetic every 4,500.
>>
>> All in all, cheap insurance. I wish I knew what moonbeam has against
>> changing oil.
>>
>>
> 3.5 quarts at $3.00 each = $10.50
> 1 filter = $4.00
>
> call it $15.00 with drain plug washer.
>
> oil analysis costs $22.50 [blackstone].
>
> 4 changes at 3000 miles each = $60.00 1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis =
> $37.50
>
> what? you don't work for nasa???
Not any more.
>> Add to that an '88 Supra with ~200,000 miles I picked up for $600 4
>> years ago, an '89 Mazda 626 in mint condition for $150, and an '89
>> Subaru Coupe for winter driving. And I change the oil on all of them at
>> 3,000 miles! The Scion gets ~7,000 miles a year, the Supra ~10,000, the
>> Mazda ~12,000 and the Subaru ~6,000. I change the oil on the Supra and
>> the Subaru when they get parked for the season, then I drain that and
>> put in fresh oil when they come back into service. The Scion gets
>> synthetic every 4,500.
>>
>> All in all, cheap insurance. I wish I knew what moonbeam has against
>> changing oil.
>>
>>
> 3.5 quarts at $3.00 each = $10.50
> 1 filter = $4.00
>
> call it $15.00 with drain plug washer.
>
> oil analysis costs $22.50 [blackstone].
>
> 4 changes at 3000 miles each = $60.00 1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis =
> $37.50
>
> what? you don't work for nasa???
Not any more.
#175
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Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 15:38:56 -0400, Polfus wrote:
>
>> what? you don't work for nasa???
>
> Do *YOU* change your oil every 12,000 miles?
>
> If so, then knock yourself out.
>
> Polfus
I generally run my cars no more than 5 miles per trip, and I try to plan
it so trips are 10 miles or more. This gives the oil a chance to get warm
enough to deal with any contaminents built up from starting and helps to
keep it from turning acidic longer. I also try to run my cars as fast as
possible (observing local laws, of course) generally 40-50 MPH wherever I
go. I live in a rural area so it's easy to do. All this helps the oil
better than a number of 2-3 mile trips with long stops in between, or stop
and start driving.
And I still change dino oil at 3,000 and synth at 4,500.
>
>> what? you don't work for nasa???
>
> Do *YOU* change your oil every 12,000 miles?
>
> If so, then knock yourself out.
>
> Polfus
I generally run my cars no more than 5 miles per trip, and I try to plan
it so trips are 10 miles or more. This gives the oil a chance to get warm
enough to deal with any contaminents built up from starting and helps to
keep it from turning acidic longer. I also try to run my cars as fast as
possible (observing local laws, of course) generally 40-50 MPH wherever I
go. I live in a rural area so it's easy to do. All this helps the oil
better than a number of 2-3 mile trips with long stops in between, or stop
and start driving.
And I still change dino oil at 3,000 and synth at 4,500.
#176
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 15:23:41 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
> > and drain plugs = $26.00
>
> you're either dishonest or delusional. you've stated many times how you
> do your changes yourself every 3k, 4.5k for synthetic. now here you are
> suddenly at 6k.
That was *ME*, Nimrod.
>
> > and drain plugs = $26.00
>
> you're either dishonest or delusional. you've stated many times how you
> do your changes yourself every 3k, 4.5k for synthetic. now here you are
> suddenly at 6k.
That was *ME*, Nimrod.
#177
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 15:23:41 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>> 1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis = $42.50
>>
>> I'm still at $26.00.
>>
>>> what? you don't work for nasa???
>>
>> Do *YOU* change your oil every 12,000 miles?
>
> actually, based on my usage, i go 12k.
TWELVE THOUSAND MILES?!?!?!?!
And you have the ***** to lecture *ME* on 'proper oil changes'?
I am pretty sure the manual indicates something much less than 12,000
miles!!!
And, all the people that came in with sludged Camry and Sienna engines?
Guess how often they changed their oil? Gee, it was 12,000 miles (or
more)! And the manual said 7,500. Luckily for them, Toyota footed the bill
for their negligence.
People who followed the maintenance schedule had minimal (accetable)
sludge levels, and the ones smart enough to change every 3,000 miles had
no build-up at all.
Honda's Owner's Manula for a 2001 Accord says:
Replace Engine Oil Replace every 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 12
months.
>>> 1 change at 12000 + 1 analysis = $42.50
>>
>> I'm still at $26.00.
>>
>>> what? you don't work for nasa???
>>
>> Do *YOU* change your oil every 12,000 miles?
>
> actually, based on my usage, i go 12k.
TWELVE THOUSAND MILES?!?!?!?!
And you have the ***** to lecture *ME* on 'proper oil changes'?
I am pretty sure the manual indicates something much less than 12,000
miles!!!
And, all the people that came in with sludged Camry and Sienna engines?
Guess how often they changed their oil? Gee, it was 12,000 miles (or
more)! And the manual said 7,500. Luckily for them, Toyota footed the bill
for their negligence.
People who followed the maintenance schedule had minimal (accetable)
sludge levels, and the ones smart enough to change every 3,000 miles had
no build-up at all.
Honda's Owner's Manula for a 2001 Accord says:
Replace Engine Oil Replace every 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 12
months.
#178
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 08:41:30 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>>> if you don't want to follow the manual's service schedule, do oil
>>>> analysis. all this blind gut stuff is utterly retarded.
>>>
>>>
>>> WHY THE would I pay for an 'oil analysis' that costs more than
>>> CHANGING THE FRIGGING OIL?!?!?!
>>
>> Dude....you got that right.
>>
>>> Dude, you make less sense as you go along!
>>
>> Heh...no .
>>
>>
>
> ever heard the expression, "ignorance is temporary, stupid is for ever"?
>
> here's how it works: you use oil analysis to determine the oil change
> interval for your regular driving pattern. if analysis determines that
> you can extend your change interval to 12k miles, for instance, you get to
> save money on your previous change history.
>
> math [and saving money] doesn't get much simpler.
Thanks, but I like to /drive/ my cars. This means, I buy cars with some
pep and are fun to drive, and I drive them that way, and I don't want my
cars (like the VW I had that had oil pressure problems after being driven
to MAss from NJ by Who Knows Who) to spend a lot of time on the lift at
the dealer. My oil analysis is this: at 3,000 miles I take a look at it.
If it's black, it goes.
>>>> if you don't want to follow the manual's service schedule, do oil
>>>> analysis. all this blind gut stuff is utterly retarded.
>>>
>>>
>>> WHY THE would I pay for an 'oil analysis' that costs more than
>>> CHANGING THE FRIGGING OIL?!?!?!
>>
>> Dude....you got that right.
>>
>>> Dude, you make less sense as you go along!
>>
>> Heh...no .
>>
>>
>
> ever heard the expression, "ignorance is temporary, stupid is for ever"?
>
> here's how it works: you use oil analysis to determine the oil change
> interval for your regular driving pattern. if analysis determines that
> you can extend your change interval to 12k miles, for instance, you get to
> save money on your previous change history.
>
> math [and saving money] doesn't get much simpler.
Thanks, but I like to /drive/ my cars. This means, I buy cars with some
pep and are fun to drive, and I drive them that way, and I don't want my
cars (like the VW I had that had oil pressure problems after being driven
to MAss from NJ by Who Knows Who) to spend a lot of time on the lift at
the dealer. My oil analysis is this: at 3,000 miles I take a look at it.
If it's black, it goes.
#179
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
On Sun, 18 May 2008 15:39:06 -0400, Polfus wrote:
>
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote
>
>> ever heard the expression, "ignorance is temporary, stupid is for ever"?
>
> ever heard the expression, "you're an "?
ROFLMAO...
>
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote
>
>> ever heard the expression, "ignorance is temporary, stupid is for ever"?
>
> ever heard the expression, "you're an "?
ROFLMAO...
#180
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Plan on driving a new car on a 3000mile highway trip. Bad idea?
Hachiroku 繝上メ繝繧ッ wrote:
> On Sun, 18 May 2008 10:16:29 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> Let's add something else. On the 10,000 mile service for my last new
>>> car, the S.M. had them drill points on the suspension and add Zerk
>>> fittings. Tha factory said the suspension was lubed for the life of the
>>> car. Why do you suppose the S.M. did that, at no charge?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> it's called "profit". drilling a grease nipple into a joint /after/
>> assembly damages the joint and contaminates it. thus reducing life. and
>> each subsequent grease injection can introduce more contamination too.
>>
>> so, as a one-man profit center, you're an unscrupulous service manager's
>> dream. that's not "no charge".
>
> As the drill turns, since you're drilling from the bottom, the havings
> fall away. Those that don't get driven out when fresh grease is installed.
wrong. as you break through, shavings get pushed in. grease on top of
that pushes them further, as well as any grit that's in the gun.
>
> The fittings were put in in 1986. The car was being driven until 2003. No
> damage to rack and pinion, and still on original ball joints wher the
> grease fittings were added.
so you say. but the fact is, unless the boots are damaged, these things
typically last 300k+, with no intervention.
>
> I guess that *really* paid off for them, eh?
1. they clearly don't know what they're doing.
2. contamination is a fact. deal with it. contamination causes early
failure. if yours haven't yet, it's good engineering, and certainly not
/because/ of this stupidity.
> On Sun, 18 May 2008 10:16:29 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>>> Let's add something else. On the 10,000 mile service for my last new
>>> car, the S.M. had them drill points on the suspension and add Zerk
>>> fittings. Tha factory said the suspension was lubed for the life of the
>>> car. Why do you suppose the S.M. did that, at no charge?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> it's called "profit". drilling a grease nipple into a joint /after/
>> assembly damages the joint and contaminates it. thus reducing life. and
>> each subsequent grease injection can introduce more contamination too.
>>
>> so, as a one-man profit center, you're an unscrupulous service manager's
>> dream. that's not "no charge".
>
> As the drill turns, since you're drilling from the bottom, the havings
> fall away. Those that don't get driven out when fresh grease is installed.
wrong. as you break through, shavings get pushed in. grease on top of
that pushes them further, as well as any grit that's in the gun.
>
> The fittings were put in in 1986. The car was being driven until 2003. No
> damage to rack and pinion, and still on original ball joints wher the
> grease fittings were added.
so you say. but the fact is, unless the boots are damaged, these things
typically last 300k+, with no intervention.
>
> I guess that *really* paid off for them, eh?
1. they clearly don't know what they're doing.
2. contamination is a fact. deal with it. contamination causes early
failure. if yours haven't yet, it's good engineering, and certainly not
/because/ of this stupidity.