Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
*coil's insulating lacquer.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
#18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
= no spark.

Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).

Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
*coil's insulating lacquer.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
#18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
= no spark.

Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).

Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely
suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst
after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time.

Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can
you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
distributor and induction coil?






TE Chea wrote:
> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
> *coil's insulating lacquer.
> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
> = no spark.
>
> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).
>
> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely
suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst
after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time.

Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can
you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
distributor and induction coil?






TE Chea wrote:
> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
> *coil's insulating lacquer.
> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
> = no spark.
>
> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).
>
> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely
suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst
after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time.

Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can
you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
distributor and induction coil?






TE Chea wrote:
> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
> *coil's insulating lacquer.
> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
> = no spark.
>
> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).
>
> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely
suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst
after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time.

Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can
you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
distributor and induction coil?






TE Chea wrote:
> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
> *coil's insulating lacquer.
> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
> = no spark.
>
> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).
>
> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com...
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>

If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect
the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've
had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer
Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the
tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300
miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try.

Mike

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com...
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>

If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect
the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've
had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer
Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the
tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300
miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try.

Mike

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com...
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>

If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect
the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've
had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer
Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the
tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300
miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try.

Mike

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com...
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>

If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect
the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've
had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer
Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the
tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300
miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try.

Mike

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel
injector cleaner about a month ago.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel
injector cleaner about a month ago.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel
injector cleaner about a month ago.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel
injector cleaner about a month ago.

Re: Shuddering when taking off
 

emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely
> suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst
> after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time.
>
> Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can
> you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
> distributor and induction coil?

emil, be very very careful trying to make sense of chea's posts. most
of it is nonsense. the rest, stupid.

this will give you a clue:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...68269f3?hl=en&

>
>
>
>
>
>
> TE Chea wrote:
>> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
>> *coil's insulating lacquer.
>> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
>> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
>> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
>> = no spark.
>>
>> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
>> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
>> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
>> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).
>>
>> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.
>