Martin Fraser

OK, Thanks!
I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do you?
If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps) then
whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?

Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit where it
would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?

Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response

Martin

"Woody" <TheDuck@pond.net> wrote in message
news:IGCOb.31796$P%1.25319360@newssvr28.news.prodi gy.com...
> The accessories sockets are fused with a 15 amp fuse 9 in the passenger
> under dash fuse panel. The accessory power socket relay is controlled by a
> 7.5a fuse 8. The 15 amp also feeds the audio unit, A/t gear position
> indicator, dvd unit and rear controller. While the idle current on the
unit
> may not be enough to blow the fuse surge current can. As the other post
said
> a 400 watt inverter is way too much for that circuit. You were lucky that
it
> worked that long. The idle current may have been high enough to melt the
> connections in the fuse over time. Also the only to check a fuse is with a
> meter or replace it. Looking at it doesn't always work. Look for a 100 or
> 150 watt inverter to use. They are cheap. I got one for about
> $30............
>
>
> "Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in message
> news:c9bbd$400ab727$4286da03$22330@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> > >
> > > Isn't there a low amp rating on the accessory plugs, like 10 amps? I
> > don't
> > > know what the inverter draws (400 WTS is over 30 amps at 12.6 VDC if
> 100%
> > > efficient and at full load). My guess this is where the "problem" is.
> > > Probably shoud connect the inverter directly to the battery.
> > >
> > > Mike
> >
> > Thanks, I'll check on that. It's just a bit odd that it worked for a
year
> or
> > so before quitting. perhaps a current draw spike from an aging laptop
> > battery?
> >
> > I appreciate the suggestion
> > Martin
> >
> >
>
>

Martin Fraser

OK, Thanks!
I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do you?
If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps) then
whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?

Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit where it
would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?

Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response

Martin

"Woody" <TheDuck@pond.net> wrote in message
news:IGCOb.31796$P%1.25319360@newssvr28.news.prodi gy.com...
> The accessories sockets are fused with a 15 amp fuse 9 in the passenger
> under dash fuse panel. The accessory power socket relay is controlled by a
> 7.5a fuse 8. The 15 amp also feeds the audio unit, A/t gear position
> indicator, dvd unit and rear controller. While the idle current on the
unit
> may not be enough to blow the fuse surge current can. As the other post
said
> a 400 watt inverter is way too much for that circuit. You were lucky that
it
> worked that long. The idle current may have been high enough to melt the
> connections in the fuse over time. Also the only to check a fuse is with a
> meter or replace it. Looking at it doesn't always work. Look for a 100 or
> 150 watt inverter to use. They are cheap. I got one for about
> $30............
>
>
> "Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in message
> news:c9bbd$400ab727$4286da03$22330@msgid.meganewss ervers.com...
> > >
> > > Isn't there a low amp rating on the accessory plugs, like 10 amps? I
> > don't
> > > know what the inverter draws (400 WTS is over 30 amps at 12.6 VDC if
> 100%
> > > efficient and at full load). My guess this is where the "problem" is.
> > > Probably shoud connect the inverter directly to the battery.
> > >
> > > Mike
> >
> > Thanks, I'll check on that. It's just a bit odd that it worked for a
year
> or
> > so before quitting. perhaps a current draw spike from an aging laptop
> > battery?
> >
> > I appreciate the suggestion
> > Martin
> >
> >
>
>

Maggot

"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
$4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

> OK, Thanks!
> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do you?
> If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps) then
> whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>
> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit where it
> would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>
> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>
> Martin
>
>

No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts at
12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you 120 vts
AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the losses
involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15 amps, which
may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.

I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.



--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Maggot

"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
$4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

> OK, Thanks!
> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do you?
> If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps) then
> whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>
> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit where it
> would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>
> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>
> Martin
>
>

No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts at
12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you 120 vts
AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the losses
involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15 amps, which
may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.

I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.



--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Maggot

"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
$4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

> OK, Thanks!
> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do you?
> If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps) then
> whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>
> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit where it
> would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>
> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>
> Martin
>
>

No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts at
12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you 120 vts
AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the losses
involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15 amps, which
may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.

I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.



--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Maggot

"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
$4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

> OK, Thanks!
> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do you?
> If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps) then
> whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>
> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit where it
> would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>
> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>
> Martin
>
>

No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts at
12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you 120 vts
AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the losses
involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15 amps, which
may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.

I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.



--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Maggot

Maggot <Maggot@nospam.invalid> wrote in
news:Xns9475BA4CD812Maggot@130.81.64.196:

> "Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
> $4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>
>> OK, Thanks!
>> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do
>> you? If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps)
>> then whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>>
>> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit
>> where it would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>>
>> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>>
>> Martin
>>
>>
>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
> generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts
> at 12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you
> 120 vts AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the
> losses involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15
> amps, which may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.
>
> I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.
>
>
>

I think what I am trying to say here is that although there may be a 15 amp
fuse on the line, Honda recommends (at least for the 2004 Odyssey that I
have) that "These sockets are intended to supply power for 12 volt DC
accessories that are rated at 120 Wts or less (10 amps)." So if the
combined power of the laptop and the power losses inherent in the inverter
exceed 10 amps then you may heat up the fuse and ultimately blow it.

My Compaq EVO 610c uses about 90 WTS max or about 7 amps at 12.6 volts DC.
I've never measured it but this is its rated power consumption. Can you
get a direct DC to DC converter for your laptop? Seems to me that this may
be a more efficient and less problematic way of powering the unit.

If not, I still think the best thing then would be to hook the inverter
directly to the car's battery, and it's not that difficult to do. Just be
sure you fuse it for its rated power maximum (in the case of the 400 wt
inverter I'd use a 25-30 amp fuse).

Mike

--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Maggot

Maggot <Maggot@nospam.invalid> wrote in
news:Xns9475BA4CD812Maggot@130.81.64.196:

> "Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
> $4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>
>> OK, Thanks!
>> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do
>> you? If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps)
>> then whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>>
>> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit
>> where it would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>>
>> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>>
>> Martin
>>
>>
>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
> generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts
> at 12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you
> 120 vts AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the
> losses involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15
> amps, which may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.
>
> I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.
>
>
>

I think what I am trying to say here is that although there may be a 15 amp
fuse on the line, Honda recommends (at least for the 2004 Odyssey that I
have) that "These sockets are intended to supply power for 12 volt DC
accessories that are rated at 120 Wts or less (10 amps)." So if the
combined power of the laptop and the power losses inherent in the inverter
exceed 10 amps then you may heat up the fuse and ultimately blow it.

My Compaq EVO 610c uses about 90 WTS max or about 7 amps at 12.6 volts DC.
I've never measured it but this is its rated power consumption. Can you
get a direct DC to DC converter for your laptop? Seems to me that this may
be a more efficient and less problematic way of powering the unit.

If not, I still think the best thing then would be to hook the inverter
directly to the car's battery, and it's not that difficult to do. Just be
sure you fuse it for its rated power maximum (in the case of the 400 wt
inverter I'd use a 25-30 amp fuse).

Mike

--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Maggot

Maggot <Maggot@nospam.invalid> wrote in
news:Xns9475BA4CD812Maggot@130.81.64.196:

> "Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
> $4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>
>> OK, Thanks!
>> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do
>> you? If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps)
>> then whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>>
>> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit
>> where it would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>>
>> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>>
>> Martin
>>
>>
>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
> generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts
> at 12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you
> 120 vts AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the
> losses involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15
> amps, which may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.
>
> I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.
>
>
>

I think what I am trying to say here is that although there may be a 15 amp
fuse on the line, Honda recommends (at least for the 2004 Odyssey that I
have) that "These sockets are intended to supply power for 12 volt DC
accessories that are rated at 120 Wts or less (10 amps)." So if the
combined power of the laptop and the power losses inherent in the inverter
exceed 10 amps then you may heat up the fuse and ultimately blow it.

My Compaq EVO 610c uses about 90 WTS max or about 7 amps at 12.6 volts DC.
I've never measured it but this is its rated power consumption. Can you
get a direct DC to DC converter for your laptop? Seems to me that this may
be a more efficient and less problematic way of powering the unit.

If not, I still think the best thing then would be to hook the inverter
directly to the car's battery, and it's not that difficult to do. Just be
sure you fuse it for its rated power maximum (in the case of the 400 wt
inverter I'd use a 25-30 amp fuse).

Mike

--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Maggot

Maggot <Maggot@nospam.invalid> wrote in
news:Xns9475BA4CD812Maggot@130.81.64.196:

> "Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:b0cbe$400c5dd4
> $4286da03$21026@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>
>> OK, Thanks!
>> I don't think that a 150 W unit will run a laptop playing a DVD - do
>> you? If the Laptop will run on 150 W (i.e. it's only drawing 1.25 amps)
>> then whether I have a 150 or a 400 W unit wouldn't matter, right?
>>
>> Is it the case that the Laptop will trip the fuse in the 150W unit
>> where it would have blown the Honda #9 fuse if the 400 W unit was used?
>>
>> Thanks VERY much for your most helpful response
>>
>> Martin
>>
>>
>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts. To
> generate 150 wts of power at 120 VAC you will need in excess of 150 wts
> at 12.6 volts DC or 11 amps. Fogetting efficiencies, this will give you
> 120 vts AC at 1.25 amps. So a 150 Wt laptop will work but with all the
> losses involved with the inverter I suspect you will be approaching 15
> amps, which may be the fused limit on the accesory plug.
>
> I still suggest you connect the inverter directly to the battery.
>
>
>

I think what I am trying to say here is that although there may be a 15 amp
fuse on the line, Honda recommends (at least for the 2004 Odyssey that I
have) that "These sockets are intended to supply power for 12 volt DC
accessories that are rated at 120 Wts or less (10 amps)." So if the
combined power of the laptop and the power losses inherent in the inverter
exceed 10 amps then you may heat up the fuse and ultimately blow it.

My Compaq EVO 610c uses about 90 WTS max or about 7 amps at 12.6 volts DC.
I've never measured it but this is its rated power consumption. Can you
get a direct DC to DC converter for your laptop? Seems to me that this may
be a more efficient and less problematic way of powering the unit.

If not, I still think the best thing then would be to hook the inverter
directly to the car's battery, and it's not that difficult to do. Just be
sure you fuse it for its rated power maximum (in the case of the 400 wt
inverter I'd use a 25-30 amp fuse).

Mike

--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Martin Fraser

>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
to think)
I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...

Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
spot to tap in to the + side.

Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?

and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?

I realy appreciate your patience!

Martin


> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Martin Fraser

>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
to think)
I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...

Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
spot to tap in to the + side.

Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?

and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?

I realy appreciate your patience!

Martin


> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Martin Fraser

>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
to think)
I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...

Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
spot to tap in to the + side.

Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?

and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?

I realy appreciate your patience!

Martin


> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Martin Fraser

>
> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
to think)
I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...

Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
spot to tap in to the + side.

Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?

and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?

I realy appreciate your patience!

Martin


> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.

Randolph

> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.

Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
uses.

> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?

14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
into battery voltage.

> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?

Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
a grommet for your wires.