Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
01-20-2004, 08:49 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
uses.
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
into battery voltage.
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
a grommet for your wires.
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
uses.
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
into battery voltage.
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
a grommet for your wires.
01-20-2004, 08:49 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
uses.
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
into battery voltage.
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
a grommet for your wires.
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
uses.
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
into battery voltage.
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
a grommet for your wires.
01-20-2004, 08:49 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
uses.
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
into battery voltage.
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
a grommet for your wires.
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
uses.
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
into battery voltage.
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
a grommet for your wires.
01-20-2004, 09:21 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:ec77e$400db8e6
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
01-20-2004, 09:21 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:ec77e$400db8e6
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
01-20-2004, 09:21 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:ec77e$400db8e6
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
01-20-2004, 09:21 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Using a power inverter in an Oddessey?
"Martin Fraser" <mfraserx@chem-center.com> wrote in news:ec77e$400db8e6
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
$4286da03$8936@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>>
>> No it won't. You miss the point. The car voltage is 12.6 volts.
> Dooh! - sorry. If I reread my post I'd have picked up my stupidity (I like
> to think)
> I'm always thinking in a 120 V world...
>
> Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors - but
> they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a likely
> spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire it?
> Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> I realy appreciate your patience!
>
> Martin
>
>
>> "All my friends can't be wrong!"
>> Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
>
>
>
Now there's a challenge ;-)
I'll be honest and tell you I've never done it in my Odyssey (only have had
it for 2 months and it's too cold here to want to spend any time trying to
wire something). I have owned several vehicles that I have run wiring (I'm
an amateur radio operator and had to run some heavy duty cables to the
passenger compartment and the trunk from the engine compartment).
First of all I'd use 14 or 12 gauge stranded wire, not solid. Stranded wire
will not break over time as quickly as solid wire from the normal vibrations
in the car. Secondly you will want to place an in-line fuse somewhere in the
engine compartment before the wire passes through the firewall. As to
connecting it directly to the battery, I have done exactly that (to the
positive connector or if you are lucky you may find a free tab in the fuse
block located in the engine compartment.
Auto parts stores will carry pre-assembled wiring complete with an in-line
fuse. You only need to run the positive line to the passenger compartment,
the negative return can be made to the car body itself. I'd be really
carefull passing the wire through the firewall. You may find other wiring
passing through a rubber grommet and will be able to pass yours along side,
sometimes an icepick can be used to puncture the rubber to allow a reasonably
watertight passage. Be careful you don't break or pierce the existing
wiring. Or, you may find a place to drill a small hole in the firewall.
Again be careful and assure that you aren't going to puncture some important
structure. You should place a rubber grommet in the hole to minimize
chaffing of the new wire, then seal it with silicone cement.
I think I'd start by looking for a complete cigarette lighter recepticle
assembly at the auto shop. This will come with all the necessary wires, fuse
and perhaps directions that will help. The recepticle can be mounted
somewhere in the vehicle and you could then use your existing setup.
HTH,
Mike
--
"All my friends can't be wrong!"
Remember, stupidity runs in herds.
01-22-2004, 08:36 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Randolph, Mike - THANKS!
Randolph, Mike -
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
01-22-2004, 08:36 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Randolph, Mike - THANKS!
Randolph, Mike -
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
01-22-2004, 08:36 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Randolph, Mike - THANKS!
Randolph, Mike -
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
01-22-2004, 08:36 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Randolph, Mike - THANKS!
Randolph, Mike -
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
I really appreciate your help. The fact that you both agreed, chapter and
verse without referencing each others post is Very reassuring.
You and this group are a great resource, I only wish that I might be able to
return the flavor some day.
Sincerely,
Martin
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:400DDABF.F29DF9CB@junkmail.com...
> > Yes, my inverter is fused, (and it did come with battery connectors -
but
> > they're aligator clips) I will look at the battery wiring and find a
likely
> > spot to tap in to the + side.
>
> Most Hondas have an under-hood fuse box. On mine there is one fat wire
> coming in to that fuse box from the battery and one from the alternator.
> These both have screw terminals, and are good points to hook up
> high-power accessories. Crimp a ring terminal to your wire use one of
> the screw terminals. For the ground lead, follow the ground wire from
> the battery to where it is connected to the chassis. Again crimp a ring
> terminal to your wire and use the same grounding point as the battery
> uses.
>
> > Not to sound too obtuse (ok I already do) - what would you use to wire
it?
> > Household plastic sheathed 14g 3 strand ok?
>
> 14 AWG is skimpy. At 150W and an efficiency of 80% (fairly typical
> value) you will be drawing about 15A average current. The peak current
> will be quite a bit higher than 15A, so to limit your resistive losses I
> would go no smaller than 10 AWG. Get individual 10 AWG wires from your
> favorite auto parts store, black for negative, yellow for positive. (The
> inverter should be in the cabin, not under the hood). Remember to put an
> in-line fuse in the positive wire within a few inches of were you tap
> into battery voltage.
>
> > and where would you pass through the fierwall? the steering collumn?
>
> Have a close look at the firewall. You will probably find some unused
> rubber plugs you can pull out and thread the wires through the hole. Use
> a grommet for your wires.
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