it's not worth the pain in the *** work to save a few dollars,
brought my 2001 elantra into the dealer to have the front driverside wheel
bearing done.
180$ complete... (cdn dollars)
Dealer gave me a loaner car to go to work picked up my car on the way home.

Chris



"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:55598198eb3bb78b4467bd3936fe01d7@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Don't run out and purchase the slide hammer. I've a 10 pound slide hammer
> that's only moderately efficient at removing these hubs.
>

 

hyundaitech can you provide some guidance?

I'm trying to replace the front and rear rotors and pads on a 2001
Santa Fe, After numerous attempts, with a hand impact driver, to loosen
the 2 screws holding the rotor on the screwheads finally sheared off.
My question : are the screws required? I have to order the screws
because dealer doesn't stock them. I would hate to have to drill and
tap the holes for nothing. Thank you in advance


hyundaitech wrote:
> 1. Soak the snap ring in penetrating oil really well. I have a pair of
> Craftsman needlenose pliers that the tech beside me believes to be the
> best he's seen for removing this snap ring. If you can get the snap ring
> to move, your should be able to eventually collapse it with the needlenose
> pliers and simultaneously pry out with a screwdriver or two. Being an
> octopus helps.
> If you're unable to get the snap ring to move, you may need to cut it. I
> had to do this once by cutting a slit in the back side of the knuckle down
> through the bearing. I'd recommend only doing this as a last resort.
>
> 2. The holes in the rotor are indeed intended for screwing a bolt into to
> push the rotor off the hub, but DON'T DO IT. You'll crack the rotor. If
> you take the knuckle off, and put the studs down on a hard surface, you
> can hammer the rotor off. I use about a 3.5 lb. dead blow hammer. If
> you've removed the retaining screws (or they aren't there), the rotor
> should hammer off.
>
> 3. The hub is simply pressed into the bearing. Once you get the rotor
> off, you can press the hub out. While on the car, the axle nut holds the
> assembly together.

 

hyundaitech can you provide some guidance?

I'm trying to replace the front and rear rotors and pads on a 2001
Santa Fe, After numerous attempts, with a hand impact driver, to loosen
the 2 screws holding the rotor on the screwheads finally sheared off.
My question : are the screws required? I have to order the screws
because dealer doesn't stock them. I would hate to have to drill and
tap the holes for nothing. Thank you in advance


hyundaitech wrote:
> 1. Soak the snap ring in penetrating oil really well. I have a pair of
> Craftsman needlenose pliers that the tech beside me believes to be the
> best he's seen for removing this snap ring. If you can get the snap ring
> to move, your should be able to eventually collapse it with the needlenose
> pliers and simultaneously pry out with a screwdriver or two. Being an
> octopus helps.
> If you're unable to get the snap ring to move, you may need to cut it. I
> had to do this once by cutting a slit in the back side of the knuckle down
> through the bearing. I'd recommend only doing this as a last resort.
>
> 2. The holes in the rotor are indeed intended for screwing a bolt into to
> push the rotor off the hub, but DON'T DO IT. You'll crack the rotor. If
> you take the knuckle off, and put the studs down on a hard surface, you
> can hammer the rotor off. I use about a 3.5 lb. dead blow hammer. If
> you've removed the retaining screws (or they aren't there), the rotor
> should hammer off.
>
> 3. The hub is simply pressed into the bearing. Once you get the rotor
> off, you can press the hub out. While on the car, the axle nut holds the
> assembly together.

 

hyundaitech can you provide some guidance?

I'm trying to replace the front and rear rotors and pads on a 2001
Santa Fe, After numerous attempts, with a hand impact driver, to loosen
the 2 screws holding the rotor on the screwheads finally sheared off.
My question : are the screws required? I have to order the screws
because dealer doesn't stock them. I would hate to have to drill and
tap the holes for nothing. Thank you in advance


hyundaitech wrote:
> 1. Soak the snap ring in penetrating oil really well. I have a pair of
> Craftsman needlenose pliers that the tech beside me believes to be the
> best he's seen for removing this snap ring. If you can get the snap ring
> to move, your should be able to eventually collapse it with the needlenose
> pliers and simultaneously pry out with a screwdriver or two. Being an
> octopus helps.
> If you're unable to get the snap ring to move, you may need to cut it. I
> had to do this once by cutting a slit in the back side of the knuckle down
> through the bearing. I'd recommend only doing this as a last resort.
>
> 2. The holes in the rotor are indeed intended for screwing a bolt into to
> push the rotor off the hub, but DON'T DO IT. You'll crack the rotor. If
> you take the knuckle off, and put the studs down on a hard surface, you
> can hammer the rotor off. I use about a 3.5 lb. dead blow hammer. If
> you've removed the retaining screws (or they aren't there), the rotor
> should hammer off.
>
> 3. The hub is simply pressed into the bearing. Once you get the rotor
> off, you can press the hub out. While on the car, the axle nut holds the
> assembly together.

 

"dubber" <garyguion@kingcon.com> wrote in news:1139456755.836336.298110
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> I undertook the job of replacing the front wheel bearing on my wife's
> 2000 Elantra. I have use of a press. I have the spindle assembly(hub
> with rotor attached) off the car now, but I'm not sure of a few things.
> 1. How to remove the snap ring that retains the bearing. I tried
> freeing it up with a chisel and trying needle nose, but it seems pretty
> stuck. I also have a mid-sized pair of snap ring pliers, but they
> won't expand that far.
> 2. How do I separate the rotor from the hub. I first thought that the
> two holes on the face were for threading bolts in to separate the two.
> Then I read that some hyundai's have two screws that hold the rotor to
> the hub. I didn't look closely inside these holes, but maybe there is
> a hex head screw inside. I also read something about using a slide
> hammer. Anyway, I'm stuck here too.
> 3. What keeps the hub retained in the bearing. It seems like the
> transaxle would hold it to itself, but I was thinking that the
> transaxle isn't held in that strongly and that maybe the hub locks to
> the bearing somehow(other than the press fit).
> Any help anyone can give me with these questions, would be greatly
> appreciated.
>

Let me ask you this... I have TWO 2000 Elantras. It's funny watching a
problem crop up on one, and then the other (well, not that funny...)

On my wifes car, the right wheel started making a squeaking noise anytime
the wheel was turned past the 12 o'clock position (right). Now, mine is
doing it.

Is this what lead you to your bearing job?? It's definitely a
grinding/squeaking noise.

Thanks

 

"dubber" <garyguion@kingcon.com> wrote in news:1139456755.836336.298110
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> I undertook the job of replacing the front wheel bearing on my wife's
> 2000 Elantra. I have use of a press. I have the spindle assembly(hub
> with rotor attached) off the car now, but I'm not sure of a few things.
> 1. How to remove the snap ring that retains the bearing. I tried
> freeing it up with a chisel and trying needle nose, but it seems pretty
> stuck. I also have a mid-sized pair of snap ring pliers, but they
> won't expand that far.
> 2. How do I separate the rotor from the hub. I first thought that the
> two holes on the face were for threading bolts in to separate the two.
> Then I read that some hyundai's have two screws that hold the rotor to
> the hub. I didn't look closely inside these holes, but maybe there is
> a hex head screw inside. I also read something about using a slide
> hammer. Anyway, I'm stuck here too.
> 3. What keeps the hub retained in the bearing. It seems like the
> transaxle would hold it to itself, but I was thinking that the
> transaxle isn't held in that strongly and that maybe the hub locks to
> the bearing somehow(other than the press fit).
> Any help anyone can give me with these questions, would be greatly
> appreciated.
>

Let me ask you this... I have TWO 2000 Elantras. It's funny watching a
problem crop up on one, and then the other (well, not that funny...)

On my wifes car, the right wheel started making a squeaking noise anytime
the wheel was turned past the 12 o'clock position (right). Now, mine is
doing it.

Is this what lead you to your bearing job?? It's definitely a
grinding/squeaking noise.

Thanks

 

"dubber" <garyguion@kingcon.com> wrote in news:1139456755.836336.298110
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> I undertook the job of replacing the front wheel bearing on my wife's
> 2000 Elantra. I have use of a press. I have the spindle assembly(hub
> with rotor attached) off the car now, but I'm not sure of a few things.
> 1. How to remove the snap ring that retains the bearing. I tried
> freeing it up with a chisel and trying needle nose, but it seems pretty
> stuck. I also have a mid-sized pair of snap ring pliers, but they
> won't expand that far.
> 2. How do I separate the rotor from the hub. I first thought that the
> two holes on the face were for threading bolts in to separate the two.
> Then I read that some hyundai's have two screws that hold the rotor to
> the hub. I didn't look closely inside these holes, but maybe there is
> a hex head screw inside. I also read something about using a slide
> hammer. Anyway, I'm stuck here too.
> 3. What keeps the hub retained in the bearing. It seems like the
> transaxle would hold it to itself, but I was thinking that the
> transaxle isn't held in that strongly and that maybe the hub locks to
> the bearing somehow(other than the press fit).
> Any help anyone can give me with these questions, would be greatly
> appreciated.
>

Let me ask you this... I have TWO 2000 Elantras. It's funny watching a
problem crop up on one, and then the other (well, not that funny...)

On my wifes car, the right wheel started making a squeaking noise anytime
the wheel was turned past the 12 o'clock position (right). Now, mine is
doing it.

Is this what lead you to your bearing job?? It's definitely a
grinding/squeaking noise.

Thanks