Alan

Hi Everyone,

Last March 30th I bought a new battery from Sears. They also sold me
a very solid looking set of terminal clamps with. They were able to
hook up the negative wire but the positive had an entire harness where
EVERYTHING was attached so that with too much rust and oxidation on
the rind that goes on the terminal and it gets loose and breaks the
connection.

Unfortunately, you can't replace the ring and it can only tighten so
much so you need to get the entire cable, with the fuse assembly and
that is a little over a hundred dollars...I guess about $120. With
installation I'd be looking at $200 at least. All this for a loose
ring.

So, I want to rig something that will keep up the current without
adding too much resistance. I originally thought of cutting off the
ring and attaching another wire from the point it first attaches to
the bracket to the new Sears battery terminal clamp. Can that work?

Alan

zayton

Alan wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Last March 30th I bought a new battery from Sears. They also sold me
> a very solid looking set of terminal clamps with. They were able to
> hook up the negative wire but the positive had an entire harness where
> EVERYTHING was attached so that with too much rust and oxidation on
> the rind that goes on the terminal and it gets loose and breaks the
> connection.
>
> Unfortunately, you can't replace the ring and it can only tighten so
> much so you need to get the entire cable, with the fuse assembly and
> that is a little over a hundred dollars...I guess about $120. With
> installation I'd be looking at $200 at least. All this for a loose
> ring.
>
> So, I want to rig something that will keep up the current without
> adding too much resistance. I originally thought of cutting off the
> ring and attaching another wire from the point it first attaches to
> the bracket to the new Sears battery terminal clamp. Can that work?
>
> Alan

I've been running a 97 Nissan Pickup for almost two years with an un-rusted
part of the original positive ring bridged to a replacement terminal clamp
with a strap I had laying around from another old replacement clamp. no
problem so far.

So long as you have good electrical contact through solid enough conductive
materials from the original harness to the terminal, you should be OK.

Stick with materials intended for underhood elelctrcal use.

Alan

Thanks Zayton, but how do I know what metals are intended for under
the hood use? It's not like when you ask someone in a store they know
what they are talking about. I guess you mean something that won't
rust. What about these (although I don't yet know the diameter of a
battery terminal:

Copper Tube Cap

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Hose Clamp (Just the band cut to fit the circumference of the
terminal) and the Hyundai battery connector could be put over the
terminal and this extra ring:

http://www.normagroup.com/kunden/nor...f/id/EN_Clamps

What I was thinking of doing is to get a of was aOn Sat, 26 Dec 2009
16:35:08 -0600, "zayton" <zayton@newwavecomm.net> wrote:

>Alan wrote:
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> Last March 30th I bought a new battery from Sears. They also sold me
>> a very solid looking set of terminal clamps with. They were able to
>> hook up the negative wire but the positive had an entire harness where
>> EVERYTHING was attached so that with too much rust and oxidation on
>> the rind that goes on the terminal and it gets loose and breaks the
>> connection.
>>
>> Unfortunately, you can't replace the ring and it can only tighten so
>> much so you need to get the entire cable, with the fuse assembly and
>> that is a little over a hundred dollars...I guess about $120. With
>> installation I'd be looking at $200 at least. All this for a loose
>> ring.
>>
>> So, I want to rig something that will keep up the current without
>> adding too much resistance. I originally thought of cutting off the
>> ring and attaching another wire from the point it first attaches to
>> the bracket to the new Sears battery terminal clamp. Can that work?
>>
>> Alan
>
>I've been running a 97 Nissan Pickup for almost two years with an un-rusted
>part of the original positive ring bridged to a replacement terminal clamp
>with a strap I had laying around from another old replacement clamp. no
>problem so far.
>
>So long as you have good electrical contact through solid enough conductive
>materials from the original harness to the terminal, you should be OK.
>
>Stick with materials intended for underhood elelctrcal use.
>

hyundaitech

On Dec 23, 5:56 pm, Alan <alanremoveca...@excite.com> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Last March 30th I bought a new battery from Sears. They also sold me
> a very solid looking set of terminal clamps with. They were able to
> hook up the negative wire but the positive had an entire harness where
> EVERYTHING was attached so that with too much rust and oxidation on
> the rind that goes on the terminal and it gets loose and breaks the
> connection.
>
> Unfortunately, you can't replace the ring and it can only tighten so
> much so you need to get the entire cable, with the fuse assembly and
> that is a little over a hundred dollars...I guess about $120. With
> installation I'd be looking at $200 at least. All this for a loose
> ring.
>
> So, I want to rig something that will keep up the current without
> adding too much resistance. I originally thought of cutting off the
> ring and attaching another wire from the point it first attaches to
> the bracket to the new Sears battery terminal clamp. Can that work?
>
> Alan

If the clamp is just loose and won't tighten but otherwise in
reasonable condition, insert a small sheet metal screw between the
clamp and battery post. Typically, this will take up enough extra
space that the clamp will tighten.