On Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:28:34 -0700 (PDT), Toyota MDT in MO
<toyotamdtinmo@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Jul 18, 6:46 pm, Nicholas <Lawrence_Glick...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> On Sat, 18 Jul 2009 18:46:26 -0400, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
>>
>> >> Could you be a dear and leave usenet for those who don't slap
>> >> respondants' suggestions back in their faces? I can't tell you how
>> >> much I hope the noise is hubcap creep.
>>
>> >> Toyota MDT in MO
>>
>> >I'm thinking it's a sticky caliper. Just did another set of rear discs
>> >on a GM with STUCK glides.
>>
>> >Anyone have a better lube for them?
>>
>> I got some black stuff in little clear plastic tubes; can't remember
>> name...too lazy to dig through my *kit* but for giggles, couldn't you
>> just squeeze some silver-colored anti-seize into the pin guides? The
>> same stuff we use on spark plugs. Takes the heat, just can't say how
>> long it would stay where it should. Then in 30 days or so, see if you
>> still have play in the calipers...maybe use a screwdriver to test, but
>> remember the pads need to be compressed first. So have to remove
>> wheel and tire to do that. Just an idea if you've got the time.
>>
>> Nick
>>
>>
>>
>> > The stuff I'm using now is a
>> >silicone based grease made for the pins but it still doesn't last that long.
>> >The current method is to clean (or replace them if pitted) the pins. use
>> >a dowel to clean out the bores (a .30 caliber gun brush works REAL well)
>> >then solvent flush and air dry. Then a generous helping of lube and
>> >install the pins. Then a light coat of sealer inside the boot to lock it
>> >to the caliper mount and to the pin. I would think that water/air
>> >wouldn't be getting in there but I still get a couple that stick.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>Antiseize isn't a terrible thing to use on sealed slide parts, but it
>isn't ideal or recommended for this application. It isn't quite the
>lubricant that silicone/ceramic products are and it doesn't seal out,
>shed or adhere in moisture as well.

Okay, thanks for the Tip, MTD. I'll keep using that brake grease that
I buy in little tubes then. I find one little tube will do two
calipers/anti-squeal shims. I would hate to go to all that trouble
only to find the pin slides *dry* from seepage or some such.

Nick

 

Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
> On Jul 18, 5:46 pm, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking it's a sticky caliper. Just did another set of rear discs
>> on a GM with STUCK glides.
>>
>> Anyone have a better lube for them? The stuff I'm using now is a
>> silicone based grease made for the pins but it still doesn't last that long.
>> The current method is to clean (or replace them if pitted) the pins. use
>> a dowel to clean out the bores (a .30 caliber gun brush works REAL well)
>> then solvent flush and air dry. Then a generous helping of lube and
>> install the pins. Then a light coat of sealer inside the boot to lock it
>> to the caliper mount and to the pin. I would think that water/air
>> wouldn't be getting in there but I still get a couple that stick.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.
>
> There are a lot of good brake greases available. I'm currently using
> a purple colored Permatex product (brush in cap style) that may
> actually be relabelled Ceramlub. Its visible properties and
> performance seem OK but it's too early to tell at this time. If you
> are in NY, then you just have to suffer the consequences of nasty
> weather and salt (if used). I would suggest on caliper bores that
> aren't corroded, you don't brush them or their pins, but clean and dry
> with solvent/swab/whatever. There's no reason to abraid the corrosion
> resistant coating if it is still working. On corroded parts you have
> to wire brush or replace. The rubber components are usually the
> culprit when a pin gets corroded. If you replace them with the
> typical aftermarket boot kit you will probably be in for more of the
> same as they are often thin, distorted junk compared to OE. They
> barely hold up here in mostly decent weather, I can't imagine crappy
> boots standing a chance in the N.E.


Yep, upstate NY. Never heard of nasty weather here...;-) Salt? OH you
mean "corrosion accelerator"..


I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
the same thing with the aftermarket crap.

--
Steve W.

 

On Jul 20, 9:16 am, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
> Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jul 18, 5:46 pm, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >> I'm thinking it's a sticky caliper. Just did another set of rear discs
> >> on a GM with STUCK glides.
>
> >> Anyone have a better lube for them? The stuff I'm using now is a
> >> silicone based grease made for the pins but it still doesn't last thatlong.
> >> The current method is to clean (or replace them if pitted) the pins. use
> >> a dowel to clean out the bores (a .30 caliber gun brush works REAL well)
> >> then solvent flush and air dry. Then a generous helping of lube and
> >> install the pins. Then a light coat of sealer inside the boot to lock it
> >> to the caliper mount and to the pin. I would think that water/air
> >> wouldn't be getting in there but I still get a couple that stick.
>
> >> --
> >> Steve W.
>
> > There are a lot of good brake greases available. I'm currently using
> > a purple colored Permatex product (brush in cap style) that may
> > actually be relabelled Ceramlub. Its visible properties and
> > performance seem OK but it's too early to tell at this time. If you
> > are in NY, then you just have to suffer the consequences of nasty
> > weather and salt (if used). I would suggest on caliper bores that
> > aren't corroded, you don't brush them or their pins, but clean and dry
> > with solvent/swab/whatever. There's no reason to abraid the corrosion
> > resistant coating if it is still working. On corroded parts you have
> > to wire brush or replace. The rubber components are usually the
> > culprit when a pin gets corroded. If you replace them with the
> > typical aftermarket boot kit you will probably be in for more of the
> > same as they are often thin, distorted junk compared to OE. They
> > barely hold up here in mostly decent weather, I can't imagine crappy
> > boots standing a chance in the N.E.
>
> Yep, upstate NY. Never heard of nasty weather here...;-) Salt? OH you
> mean "corrosion accelerator"..
>
> I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
> if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
> solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
> pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
> thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
> the same thing with the aftermarket crap.
>
> --
> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

If you don't mind me asking, what do you mean by (or how do you go
about) burnishing the pins?

Thanks.

Toyota MDT in MO

 

On Jul 19, 8:44 pm, Nicholas <Lawrence_Glick...@comcast.net> wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:07:04 -0700 (PDT), mike3 <mike4...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >On Jul 17, 6:13 am, Nicholas <Lawrence_Glick...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >> On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 05:50:13 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net>
> >> wrote:
>
> >> >"mike3" <mike4...@yahoo.com> wrote in message If I didn't think it viable, I
> >> >wouldn't have even bothered to look at
> >> >it. What
> >> >exactly am I supposed to be looking for? I tried wiggling it with my
> >> >hand and I didn't notice anything weird about it. If I didn't think
> >> >the
> >> >suggestion viable, then I wouldn't have done that. If my "test" was
> >> >done
> >> >wrong, then how should I test it right?
>
> >> some people should take the bus.
>
> >> TAKE THE HUBCAPS OFF! Can you do that??? Then, DO IT and report back
> >> here if the *noise* went away.
>
> >It's a family car and the rest of the family doesn't agree on doing
> >this hubcap thing,
> >for the reasons I've given.
>
> sight unseen, sound not heard, it is impossible to diagnose

So you couldn't hear in the recording? Did you turn it up loud enough
and listen for the
chittering at the times I mentioned?

 

Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
> On Jul 20, 9:16 am, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
>> Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
>> I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
>> if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
>> solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
>> pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
>> thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
>> the same thing with the aftermarket crap.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> If you don't mind me asking, what do you mean by (or how do you go
> about) burnishing the pins?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Toyota MDT in MO

Use a fine wire wheel to get any crud off. Then clean the groove real well.
Then the pins get hooked to a mandrel (high tech - cut off bolt that
will thread into them) Then I use what is basically a flat knife steel
to smooth them out. Takes about 30 seconds to do each one. They are
smooth then.

I've been thinking about buying a couple new caliper mounts and seeing
if they can be bushed with a bronze or stainless sleeve.

--
Steve W.

 

On Jul 20, 9:44 pm, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
> Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jul 20, 9:16 am, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
> >> Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
> >> I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
> >> if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
> >> solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
> >> pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
> >> thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
> >> the same thing with the aftermarket crap.
>
> >> --
> >> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > If you don't mind me asking, what do you mean by (or how do you go
> > about) burnishing the pins?
>
> > Thanks.
>
> > Toyota MDT in MO
>
> Use a fine wire wheel to get any crud off. Then clean the groove real well.
> Then the pins get hooked to a mandrel (high tech - cut off bolt that
> will thread into them) Then I use what is basically a flat knife steel
> to smooth them out. Takes about 30 seconds to do each one. They are
> smooth then.
>
> I've been thinking about buying a couple new caliper mounts and seeing
> if they can be bushed with a bronze or stainless sleeve.
>
> --
> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I see. That's going pretty far but I like your methodology and
perseverance :-)

 

Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
> On Jul 20, 9:44 pm, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
>> Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Jul 20, 9:16 am, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
>>>> Toyota MDT in MO wrote:
>>>> I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
>>>> if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
>>>> solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
>>>> pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
>>>> thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
>>>> the same thing with the aftermarket crap.
>>>> --
>>>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> If you don't mind me asking, what do you mean by (or how do you go
>>> about) burnishing the pins?
>>> Thanks.
>>> Toyota MDT in MO
>> Use a fine wire wheel to get any crud off. Then clean the groove real well.
>> Then the pins get hooked to a mandrel (high tech - cut off bolt that
>> will thread into them) Then I use what is basically a flat knife steel
>> to smooth them out. Takes about 30 seconds to do each one. They are
>> smooth then.
>>
>> I've been thinking about buying a couple new caliper mounts and seeing
>> if they can be bushed with a bronze or stainless sleeve.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> I see. That's going pretty far but I like your methodology and
> perseverance :-)

I HATE sticking calipers!!!!



--
Steve W.