Brian Nystrom wrote:

> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram drain
> valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush washers,
> possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the drain plug and
> dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan. Some people prefer
> the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one does the job. After
> using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to using a stock drain plug
> again. It's one of those "Why didn't someone think of that before???"
> items.

Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it is
good enough for me!

Matt

 

Since the new Elantra is my wife's car, it sees pretty "severe
service." Not that she's a bad driver, on the contrary, but it's
primarily driven to and from work (5 miles each way, in town, and
stop-and-go), to the grocery store, etc. Given typical winter
operation, the car barely has time to come up to operational temp
before it's shut down. Although I know 3K/3 mo. oil change intervals
with Mobil 1 is overkill, I'm technically not wasting oil. Perhaps
wasting money, yes, but all oil is recycled at a local synthetic motor
oil-specific recycler.

 

Since the new Elantra is my wife's car, it sees pretty "severe
service." Not that she's a bad driver, on the contrary, but it's
primarily driven to and from work (5 miles each way, in town, and
stop-and-go), to the grocery store, etc. Given typical winter
operation, the car barely has time to come up to operational temp
before it's shut down. Although I know 3K/3 mo. oil change intervals
with Mobil 1 is overkill, I'm technically not wasting oil. Perhaps
wasting money, yes, but all oil is recycled at a local synthetic motor
oil-specific recycler.

 

Since the new Elantra is my wife's car, it sees pretty "severe
service." Not that she's a bad driver, on the contrary, but it's
primarily driven to and from work (5 miles each way, in town, and
stop-and-go), to the grocery store, etc. Given typical winter
operation, the car barely has time to come up to operational temp
before it's shut down. Although I know 3K/3 mo. oil change intervals
with Mobil 1 is overkill, I'm technically not wasting oil. Perhaps
wasting money, yes, but all oil is recycled at a local synthetic motor
oil-specific recycler.

 

Don Allen wrote:
> Since the new Elantra is my wife's car, it sees pretty "severe
> service." Not that she's a bad driver, on the contrary, but it's
> primarily driven to and from work (5 miles each way, in town, and
> stop-and-go), to the grocery store, etc. Given typical winter
> operation, the car barely has time to come up to operational temp
> before it's shut down. Although I know 3K/3 mo. oil change intervals
> with Mobil 1 is overkill, I'm technically not wasting oil. Perhaps
> wasting money, yes, but all oil is recycled at a local synthetic motor
> oil-specific recycler.
>

Certainly driving conditions such as those warrant more frequent
changes. Although, personally, I think I'd spend the time for a long
run at least every other week to get the car fully warmed up and burn
the moisture out of the crankcase. Changing the oil won't remove the
condensation from the internals of the engine.

Even with recycling it is a waste as it takes energy to recycle the oil
and most folks also change the filter with the oil so it wastes that as
well. However, your conditions may warrant this frequency and then it
isn't wasteful.

Matt

 

Don Allen wrote:
> Since the new Elantra is my wife's car, it sees pretty "severe
> service." Not that she's a bad driver, on the contrary, but it's
> primarily driven to and from work (5 miles each way, in town, and
> stop-and-go), to the grocery store, etc. Given typical winter
> operation, the car barely has time to come up to operational temp
> before it's shut down. Although I know 3K/3 mo. oil change intervals
> with Mobil 1 is overkill, I'm technically not wasting oil. Perhaps
> wasting money, yes, but all oil is recycled at a local synthetic motor
> oil-specific recycler.
>

Certainly driving conditions such as those warrant more frequent
changes. Although, personally, I think I'd spend the time for a long
run at least every other week to get the car fully warmed up and burn
the moisture out of the crankcase. Changing the oil won't remove the
condensation from the internals of the engine.

Even with recycling it is a waste as it takes energy to recycle the oil
and most folks also change the filter with the oil so it wastes that as
well. However, your conditions may warrant this frequency and then it
isn't wasteful.

Matt

 

Don Allen wrote:
> Since the new Elantra is my wife's car, it sees pretty "severe
> service." Not that she's a bad driver, on the contrary, but it's
> primarily driven to and from work (5 miles each way, in town, and
> stop-and-go), to the grocery store, etc. Given typical winter
> operation, the car barely has time to come up to operational temp
> before it's shut down. Although I know 3K/3 mo. oil change intervals
> with Mobil 1 is overkill, I'm technically not wasting oil. Perhaps
> wasting money, yes, but all oil is recycled at a local synthetic motor
> oil-specific recycler.
>

Certainly driving conditions such as those warrant more frequent
changes. Although, personally, I think I'd spend the time for a long
run at least every other week to get the car fully warmed up and burn
the moisture out of the crankcase. Changing the oil won't remove the
condensation from the internals of the engine.

Even with recycling it is a waste as it takes energy to recycle the oil
and most folks also change the filter with the oil so it wastes that as
well. However, your conditions may warrant this frequency and then it
isn't wasteful.

Matt

 

One other thing . . . I noted specifications of 5W-20, 5W-30, and
10W-30 not only in the Elantra's Maintenance Log, but in the Owner's
Manual. 10W-30 was recommended for above 0 degree F operation only.
NOTE: Interestingly, I queried the local dealer's Service Manager on
what oil weight's they use and he said that they unilaterally use
10W-30 for all Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi vechicles. Perhaps, this
is analogous to an earlier poster's comment about his dealer using
10W-30 weight oil.

One fact does exist with the comparision, for example, of 5W-30 to
10W-30 weight oil is the use of more V.I.'s (Viscosity Indexers) in
5W-30 weight oil as compared to 10W-30. The greater the amount of
V.I.'s used in motor oil, the greater propensity of varnish build-up,
"possible" sludging (over time), etc. Thus, using an oil with the
narrowest range of weights can actually be a plus. On the other hand,
5W oils are now specified not only because of tighter engine
tolerances, but primarily because of enhanced fuel economy. The
low-temp (0 degrees F or below) pourability and initial operational
flow characteristics of a 10W-30 weight synthetic are far superior to
any 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino oil.

Just a thought . . . as two vehicles I own which have used 5W-30
weight oil since purchase (each of which has over 125,000 miles on the
clock) consume approx. 1/2 to 3/4 quart between changes. On the other
hand, two other vehicles which have used 10W-30 since purchase (each of
these have over 175,000 miles) use no oil between changes. This is a
bit of an "apples-and-oranges" comparision as only the latter two are
of the same brand and type, but interesting nevertheless. In the
previously mentioned cases, the cause of the consumption is not ring
wear, rather valve stem seal and valve guide wear.

 

One other thing . . . I noted specifications of 5W-20, 5W-30, and
10W-30 not only in the Elantra's Maintenance Log, but in the Owner's
Manual. 10W-30 was recommended for above 0 degree F operation only.
NOTE: Interestingly, I queried the local dealer's Service Manager on
what oil weight's they use and he said that they unilaterally use
10W-30 for all Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi vechicles. Perhaps, this
is analogous to an earlier poster's comment about his dealer using
10W-30 weight oil.

One fact does exist with the comparision, for example, of 5W-30 to
10W-30 weight oil is the use of more V.I.'s (Viscosity Indexers) in
5W-30 weight oil as compared to 10W-30. The greater the amount of
V.I.'s used in motor oil, the greater propensity of varnish build-up,
"possible" sludging (over time), etc. Thus, using an oil with the
narrowest range of weights can actually be a plus. On the other hand,
5W oils are now specified not only because of tighter engine
tolerances, but primarily because of enhanced fuel economy. The
low-temp (0 degrees F or below) pourability and initial operational
flow characteristics of a 10W-30 weight synthetic are far superior to
any 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino oil.

Just a thought . . . as two vehicles I own which have used 5W-30
weight oil since purchase (each of which has over 125,000 miles on the
clock) consume approx. 1/2 to 3/4 quart between changes. On the other
hand, two other vehicles which have used 10W-30 since purchase (each of
these have over 175,000 miles) use no oil between changes. This is a
bit of an "apples-and-oranges" comparision as only the latter two are
of the same brand and type, but interesting nevertheless. In the
previously mentioned cases, the cause of the consumption is not ring
wear, rather valve stem seal and valve guide wear.

 

One other thing . . . I noted specifications of 5W-20, 5W-30, and
10W-30 not only in the Elantra's Maintenance Log, but in the Owner's
Manual. 10W-30 was recommended for above 0 degree F operation only.
NOTE: Interestingly, I queried the local dealer's Service Manager on
what oil weight's they use and he said that they unilaterally use
10W-30 for all Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi vechicles. Perhaps, this
is analogous to an earlier poster's comment about his dealer using
10W-30 weight oil.

One fact does exist with the comparision, for example, of 5W-30 to
10W-30 weight oil is the use of more V.I.'s (Viscosity Indexers) in
5W-30 weight oil as compared to 10W-30. The greater the amount of
V.I.'s used in motor oil, the greater propensity of varnish build-up,
"possible" sludging (over time), etc. Thus, using an oil with the
narrowest range of weights can actually be a plus. On the other hand,
5W oils are now specified not only because of tighter engine
tolerances, but primarily because of enhanced fuel economy. The
low-temp (0 degrees F or below) pourability and initial operational
flow characteristics of a 10W-30 weight synthetic are far superior to
any 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino oil.

Just a thought . . . as two vehicles I own which have used 5W-30
weight oil since purchase (each of which has over 125,000 miles on the
clock) consume approx. 1/2 to 3/4 quart between changes. On the other
hand, two other vehicles which have used 10W-30 since purchase (each of
these have over 175,000 miles) use no oil between changes. This is a
bit of an "apples-and-oranges" comparision as only the latter two are
of the same brand and type, but interesting nevertheless. In the
previously mentioned cases, the cause of the consumption is not ring
wear, rather valve stem seal and valve guide wear.

 

On 5 Feb 2006 07:51:41 -0800, "Don Allen" <w9cw@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>25 years of using the product).
>
>Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>at 1,000 miles.
>
On my 2001 Elantra I did the first oil change at 300(Three hundred)
miles, the second at 1000 miles then thew recommended 3000 mile
intervals.
Getting rid of the swarf in a new engine is the best thing you can do
to ensure good compression down the line.

 

On 5 Feb 2006 07:51:41 -0800, "Don Allen" <w9cw@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>25 years of using the product).
>
>Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>at 1,000 miles.
>
On my 2001 Elantra I did the first oil change at 300(Three hundred)
miles, the second at 1000 miles then thew recommended 3000 mile
intervals.
Getting rid of the swarf in a new engine is the best thing you can do
to ensure good compression down the line.

 

On 5 Feb 2006 07:51:41 -0800, "Don Allen" <w9cw@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>25 years of using the product).
>
>Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>at 1,000 miles.
>
On my 2001 Elantra I did the first oil change at 300(Three hundred)
miles, the second at 1000 miles then thew recommended 3000 mile
intervals.
Getting rid of the swarf in a new engine is the best thing you can do
to ensure good compression down the line.

 

Don Allen wrote:
> One other thing . . . I noted specifications of 5W-20, 5W-30, and
> 10W-30 not only in the Elantra's Maintenance Log, but in the Owner's
> Manual. 10W-30 was recommended for above 0 degree F operation only.
> NOTE: Interestingly, I queried the local dealer's Service Manager on
> what oil weight's they use and he said that they unilaterally use
> 10W-30 for all Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi vechicles. Perhaps, this
> is analogous to an earlier poster's comment about his dealer using
> 10W-30 weight oil.

They likely don't want the bother of stocking three different weight oils.


> One fact does exist with the comparision, for example, of 5W-30 to
> 10W-30 weight oil is the use of more V.I.'s (Viscosity Indexers) in
> 5W-30 weight oil as compared to 10W-30. The greater the amount of
> V.I.'s used in motor oil, the greater propensity of varnish build-up,
> "possible" sludging (over time), etc. Thus, using an oil with the
> narrowest range of weights can actually be a plus. On the other hand,
> 5W oils are now specified not only because of tighter engine
> tolerances, but primarily because of enhanced fuel economy. The
> low-temp (0 degrees F or below) pourability and initial operational
> flow characteristics of a 10W-30 weight synthetic are far superior to
> any 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino oil.

I think with synthetic oil you need fewer additives in general so I
doubt there is a lot of difference between 5W and 10W in Mobil 1. I'll
probably use 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the summer as that is
what I use in my other two vehicles and I don't want to stock more
weights of oil either! :-)


> Just a thought . . . as two vehicles I own which have used 5W-30
> weight oil since purchase (each of which has over 125,000 miles on the
> clock) consume approx. 1/2 to 3/4 quart between changes. On the other
> hand, two other vehicles which have used 10W-30 since purchase (each of
> these have over 175,000 miles) use no oil between changes. This is a
> bit of an "apples-and-oranges" comparision as only the latter two are
> of the same brand and type, but interesting nevertheless. In the
> previously mentioned cases, the cause of the consumption is not ring
> wear, rather valve stem seal and valve guide wear.

Actually, I believe that on most modern engines more oil is consumed
through the PCV system than mechanically. That is one reason why Toyota
and Honda for years had lower consumption that most other brands. They
had much better PCV systems that would separate the oil from the air
that was sent to the intake.

Matt

 

Don Allen wrote:
> One other thing . . . I noted specifications of 5W-20, 5W-30, and
> 10W-30 not only in the Elantra's Maintenance Log, but in the Owner's
> Manual. 10W-30 was recommended for above 0 degree F operation only.
> NOTE: Interestingly, I queried the local dealer's Service Manager on
> what oil weight's they use and he said that they unilaterally use
> 10W-30 for all Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi vechicles. Perhaps, this
> is analogous to an earlier poster's comment about his dealer using
> 10W-30 weight oil.

They likely don't want the bother of stocking three different weight oils.


> One fact does exist with the comparision, for example, of 5W-30 to
> 10W-30 weight oil is the use of more V.I.'s (Viscosity Indexers) in
> 5W-30 weight oil as compared to 10W-30. The greater the amount of
> V.I.'s used in motor oil, the greater propensity of varnish build-up,
> "possible" sludging (over time), etc. Thus, using an oil with the
> narrowest range of weights can actually be a plus. On the other hand,
> 5W oils are now specified not only because of tighter engine
> tolerances, but primarily because of enhanced fuel economy. The
> low-temp (0 degrees F or below) pourability and initial operational
> flow characteristics of a 10W-30 weight synthetic are far superior to
> any 5W-20 or 5W-30 dino oil.

I think with synthetic oil you need fewer additives in general so I
doubt there is a lot of difference between 5W and 10W in Mobil 1. I'll
probably use 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the summer as that is
what I use in my other two vehicles and I don't want to stock more
weights of oil either! :-)


> Just a thought . . . as two vehicles I own which have used 5W-30
> weight oil since purchase (each of which has over 125,000 miles on the
> clock) consume approx. 1/2 to 3/4 quart between changes. On the other
> hand, two other vehicles which have used 10W-30 since purchase (each of
> these have over 175,000 miles) use no oil between changes. This is a
> bit of an "apples-and-oranges" comparision as only the latter two are
> of the same brand and type, but interesting nevertheless. In the
> previously mentioned cases, the cause of the consumption is not ring
> wear, rather valve stem seal and valve guide wear.

Actually, I believe that on most modern engines more oil is consumed
through the PCV system than mechanically. That is one reason why Toyota
and Honda for years had lower consumption that most other brands. They
had much better PCV systems that would separate the oil from the air
that was sent to the intake.

Matt