hyundaitech wrote:
>
> I'd say it's a good idea to rotate the tires every 7500 miles or so. For
> about 13 years, I drove only rear drive cars and didn't believe in
> rotation. I bought new tires two at a time and put the new ones on the
> rear for good bad weather traction. As the fronts wore out, I'd move the
> rear to the front and put two new tires on the rear. But with my first
> front drive car, I learned this was a bad plan. I had to buy four tires.
> The fronts wore out quickly (because they were on the drive axle), and the
> rears lasted only a little longer because they were feathered down to
> where there was no tread in spots. Since then, I've bought four at a time
> and kept them regularly rotated with much better results.

I used to rotate bias ply tires at 5K because they wore fairly fast
compared to radials. I use 10K for radials because that is every other
oil change for me and easy to remember. And it seems plenty for
radials. I seldom get less than 50,000 on a set of tires and once got
nearly 90,000 (Michelins on a Jeep Comanche 4x4 of all things).

Very few vehicles, even rear wheel drive like my Jeep and my Chevy
pickup, will wear the tires evenly from side to side. The normal
turning forces on the front tires almost always wear the outside a
little faster than the inside. Rotation with cross-over evens this out.
I believe I get at least an extra 10,000 miles on my tires due to the
rotation schedule.

Matt

 

hyundaitech wrote:
> Tom says:
> "I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
> there."
> _________________________________________________
>
> I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
> flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
> year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
> issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
> got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
> again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
> with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.


Rule #1 of Dexcool - once Dexcool, always Dexcool.

The stuff can be really evil. You mix it with green, it makes a fairly
strong acid. Your heater core, radiator, water pump, and head gaskets
will *not* appreciate this.

GM sells a chemical flush that is known to *really* flush out all the
Dexcool for a safe conversion but its simply not worth the hassle.
Dexcool isn't a *bad* product, its just badly marketed and documented.

Never *EVER* "top up" a Dexcool car with green! Pour in water, its
muuuuuch better.

Personally I run 30/70 green/water and the suggested quantity of Redline
water-wetter. If I drove some GM Dexcool-era vehicle I'd just stick to
straight premix Dexcool (yeah, I know its not cheap). I've been told
Dexcool will react with some 'types' of tap water and from what I've
read on-line distilled water is not a good thing to use.

Bah... This is all nonsense - gimmie a 2-cycle air-cooled
mechanically-operated direct-injection diesel. You can keep your spark
ignition and your water cooling!

JS

 

hyundaitech wrote:
> Tom says:
> "I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
> there."
> _________________________________________________
>
> I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
> flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
> year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
> issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
> got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
> again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
> with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.


Rule #1 of Dexcool - once Dexcool, always Dexcool.

The stuff can be really evil. You mix it with green, it makes a fairly
strong acid. Your heater core, radiator, water pump, and head gaskets
will *not* appreciate this.

GM sells a chemical flush that is known to *really* flush out all the
Dexcool for a safe conversion but its simply not worth the hassle.
Dexcool isn't a *bad* product, its just badly marketed and documented.

Never *EVER* "top up" a Dexcool car with green! Pour in water, its
muuuuuch better.

Personally I run 30/70 green/water and the suggested quantity of Redline
water-wetter. If I drove some GM Dexcool-era vehicle I'd just stick to
straight premix Dexcool (yeah, I know its not cheap). I've been told
Dexcool will react with some 'types' of tap water and from what I've
read on-line distilled water is not a good thing to use.

Bah... This is all nonsense - gimmie a 2-cycle air-cooled
mechanically-operated direct-injection diesel. You can keep your spark
ignition and your water cooling!

JS

 

hyundaitech wrote:
> Tom says:
> "I also have a car with the red 'dex-cool' and I don't know what to do
> there."
> _________________________________________________
>
> I've seen some ugly stuff with GM Dex-Cool(R). If I had a GM product, I'd
> flush out the Dex-Cool and either put in regular green and change it every
> year, or put in Toyota Original Red, a product for which I know of no
> issues. I've thought about putting Original Red in my Taurus, but I've
> got such good access to regular coolant that I've never done it. But
> again, I think I'm one of the radicals here. I've not seen any issues
> with the long-life coolants other than Dex-Cool.


Rule #1 of Dexcool - once Dexcool, always Dexcool.

The stuff can be really evil. You mix it with green, it makes a fairly
strong acid. Your heater core, radiator, water pump, and head gaskets
will *not* appreciate this.

GM sells a chemical flush that is known to *really* flush out all the
Dexcool for a safe conversion but its simply not worth the hassle.
Dexcool isn't a *bad* product, its just badly marketed and documented.

Never *EVER* "top up" a Dexcool car with green! Pour in water, its
muuuuuch better.

Personally I run 30/70 green/water and the suggested quantity of Redline
water-wetter. If I drove some GM Dexcool-era vehicle I'd just stick to
straight premix Dexcool (yeah, I know its not cheap). I've been told
Dexcool will react with some 'types' of tap water and from what I've
read on-line distilled water is not a good thing to use.

Bah... This is all nonsense - gimmie a 2-cycle air-cooled
mechanically-operated direct-injection diesel. You can keep your spark
ignition and your water cooling!

JS