eagle talon tsi awd?
10-24-2007, 03:43 AM
#1
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eagle talon tsi awd?
I'm thinking of getting an eagle talon tsi awd. Anyone have any pros or cons on that car cuz i'm seriously considering on getting one. I actually just recently found out there was a awd version lol.
10-24-2007, 06:41 AM
#2
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do u research b4 u buy that car. i would personally get the newer kinda which comes after the flipup lights. but like everycar there is good n bad. U just gotta find a som1 that took care of there car n u should b good
10-24-2007, 10:29 PM
#3
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i read some reviews on the net and apparently performance wise its a good car but I've also heard from people that it has a lot of problems. Then again like u said its all on how the car was taken care of.
10-25-2007, 08:59 AM
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Coming from a current owner of a 97 Eclipse gsx, which is the same thing as a tsi awd, there is alot to know about this car. First, a small percentage of 2nd generation talons suffer from a problem called crankwalk. Where the crank actually travels due to poor machining by mitsu and eventually the motor blows. When that happens most people (including myself) throw in the 6-bolt motor from a 1st gen. They have some other problems as well but beyond that, careful maintenance will keep this car going fine. In terms of performance, dsms have a 4g63 motor, which is the same motor in the mitsu evolutions (but not the evo X). I've been building up my dsm for the last while, and should be pushing over 450 awhp when all is said and done, which is very decent. Its by far one of the cheapest cars to modified for the performance you get in return. And the awd matched with dsmLink's stutterbox feature make this car a launch monster. I have never owned a 1st gen dsm but have heard they suffer from more problems than the 2gs. But if you enjoy working on cars and doing things yourself, you'll love this car. Honestly, if I were you go to dsmtuners.com and read everything you can.
10-25-2007, 01:45 PM
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Crankwalk mainly occurs on 7-bolt motors that use heavy clutches. One thing that can be done to dramatically reduce the chance of crankwalk is to disconnect your clutch switch, so you can start the car without pressing in the clutch.
How dependable your DSM will be all comes down to regular maintenance, and driving style.
I have over 500whp in my car, run low 11's on pump gas, trap around 130mph, and cut 1.6-1.7 60' on street tires all day long. I did all this with a bone stock 6-bolt block w/balance shafts, and a non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end! I haven't broke a thing this year!
IMO DSMs ARE the best bang for your buck......period!
How dependable your DSM will be all comes down to regular maintenance, and driving style.
I have over 500whp in my car, run low 11's on pump gas, trap around 130mph, and cut 1.6-1.7 60' on street tires all day long. I did all this with a bone stock 6-bolt block w/balance shafts, and a non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end! I haven't broke a thing this year!
IMO DSMs ARE the best bang for your buck......period!
10-25-2007, 02:07 PM
#6
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Rep Power: 671 Crankwalk mainly occurs on 7-bolt motors that use heavy clutches. One thing that can be done to dramatically reduce the chance of crankwalk is to disconnect your clutch switch, so you can start the car without pressing in the clutch.
How dependable your DSM will be all comes down to regular maintenance, and driving style.
I have over 500whp in my car, run low 11's on pump gas, trap around 130mph, and cut 1.6-1.7 60' on street tires all day long. I did all this with a bone stock 6-bolt block w/balance shafts, and a non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end! I haven't broke a thing this year!
IMO DSMs ARE the best bang for your buck......period!
How dependable your DSM will be all comes down to regular maintenance, and driving style.
I have over 500whp in my car, run low 11's on pump gas, trap around 130mph, and cut 1.6-1.7 60' on street tires all day long. I did all this with a bone stock 6-bolt block w/balance shafts, and a non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end! I haven't broke a thing this year!
IMO DSMs ARE the best bang for your buck......period!
10-25-2007, 02:27 PM
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Its all about good tuning! I had a fully built block with Crower rods/JE pistons, ARP everything, and clevite bearings, but spun a rod bearing due to oil contamination and went back to a stock block to get me thru the year. I couldn't get my front cover off to get the stubby shaft out of my built block so I decided to just keep the balance shafts in too. I'm also using an OEM composite HG! As far as I know, Mike Rizzoti holds the 6-bolt record with 586whp, and tried for over 3 yrs to blow it up making over 500+whp.
I'm running a DBB T67 @30psi and am shifting at 8.5K. I've seen HP estimates in DSMlink as high as 647hp, and I have no worries about blowing it up!. The 4G63T is the second best motor to come out of Japan, first being the 2JZ.
Ppl really underestimate these cars! Ppl have said the 3-bolt rear-end isn't good for more then 350whp, I guess I proved that wrong too! I cut a 1.624 60 foot time with a NON-LSD 3-bolt rear end and street tires!
I'm running a DBB T67 @30psi and am shifting at 8.5K. I've seen HP estimates in DSMlink as high as 647hp, and I have no worries about blowing it up!. The 4G63T is the second best motor to come out of Japan, first being the 2JZ.
Ppl really underestimate these cars! Ppl have said the 3-bolt rear-end isn't good for more then 350whp, I guess I proved that wrong too! I cut a 1.624 60 foot time with a NON-LSD 3-bolt rear end and street tires!
Last edited by DSMonster; 10-25-2007 at 03:45 PM.
10-28-2007, 04:54 PM
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dsm suck ***** i own 2 1g's non pop up head lights....last night just driving normally down 7 went to shift into 4th and she wont budge car is stuck in third...and i dont know what the **** went wrong ...
10-29-2007, 01:29 PM
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Rep Power: 711 TheStance, it sounds like you damaged a shift fork. Since you did it while driving normanlly, I'd have to suspect an improperly adjusted clutch.
10-29-2007, 06:53 PM
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(it could also be the clutch fork)