eagle talon tsi awd?
#16
For the record, I was thinking of the 3-4 shift fork in the tranny, not the clutch fork.
Yes the tranny are the weak point in DSMs, BUT a properly maintained & properly driven transmission won't fail on you just like that! I'm on a stock JDM tranny (taller 1st gear which is weaker then USDM), and non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end. Now with over 500whp, how do I keep from breaking all the time? With the proper maintenance/set-up/driving, thats how! Believe me, I run my car hard, I have countless 1.7 60' launches and use NLTS (no lift to shift) @8.5K, so they're not entirely that weak!
Yes the tranny are the weak point in DSMs, BUT a properly maintained & properly driven transmission won't fail on you just like that! I'm on a stock JDM tranny (taller 1st gear which is weaker then USDM), and non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end. Now with over 500whp, how do I keep from breaking all the time? With the proper maintenance/set-up/driving, thats how! Believe me, I run my car hard, I have countless 1.7 60' launches and use NLTS (no lift to shift) @8.5K, so they're not entirely that weak!
#17
could you elaborate on this NLTS method ?? also are u shifting at 8.5k on stock rod bolts ?? also what valvetrain are you using if any ?? id like to discuss DSM's as you seem to be very well informed and helpful unlike some other members....id like to learn to maintain and build my dsm i have rather realistic goals i believe... which would consist of a high 12 second pass utilizing the 14b ....
For the record, I was thinking of the 3-4 shift fork in the tranny, not the clutch fork.
Yes the tranny are the weak point in DSMs, BUT a properly maintained & properly driven transmission won't fail on you just like that! I'm on a stock JDM tranny (taller 1st gear which is weaker then USDM), and non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end. Now with over 500whp, how do I keep from breaking all the time? With the proper maintenance/set-up/driving, thats how! Believe me, I run my car hard, I have countless 1.7 60' launches and use NLTS (no lift to shift) @8.5K, so they're not entirely that weak!
Yes the tranny are the weak point in DSMs, BUT a properly maintained & properly driven transmission won't fail on you just like that! I'm on a stock JDM tranny (taller 1st gear which is weaker then USDM), and non-lsd 3-bolt rear-end. Now with over 500whp, how do I keep from breaking all the time? With the proper maintenance/set-up/driving, thats how! Believe me, I run my car hard, I have countless 1.7 60' launches and use NLTS (no lift to shift) @8.5K, so they're not entirely that weak!
#18
could you elaborate on this NLTS method ?? also are u shifting at 8.5k on stock rod bolts ?? also what valvetrain are you using if any ?? id like to discuss DSM's as you seem to be very well informed and helpful unlike some other members....id like to learn to maintain and build my dsm i have rather realistic goals i believe... which would consist of a high 12 second pass utilizing the 14b ....
#19
could you elaborate on this NLTS method ?? also are u shifting at 8.5k on stock rod bolts ?? also what valvetrain are you using if any ?? id like to discuss DSM's as you seem to be very well informed and helpful unlike some other members....id like to learn to maintain and build my dsm i have rather realistic goals i believe... which would consist of a high 12 second pass utilizing the 14b ....
Wilddog summed up NLTS perfectly!
I am running a completely stock 6-bolt bottom end with balance shafts. As for my head there is no porting or fancy valve jobs, just FP2x cams (lil more agressive than HK$272's), dual valve springs, titanium retainers, manlely locks, and 3G lifters.
Like wilddog also said, 12's are obtainable with a 14b with the right set-up, tuning, and of course, driving your *** off Not easy to do, but its been done. Feel free to hit me up on PM when u have questions.
edit: talking about 16gs, great little turbos! Thats a 16G beside my turbo in my avatar picture
#21
Low 11's
I'm pushing a bit of coolant, but nothing to worry about! I'm using ARP head studs, but they've been used a few times, so I'm sure they've stretched. I didn't have a perfect finish on both my head and block so I used a composite gasket so it seals the imperfections better. Over the winter when I put back in my built bottom-end I'll be putting in some new L19 headstuds along with one of the good Felpro HGs. I'll be looking to run 35-37psi next year! I very rarely knock, almost never see 2 degrees of retard (thats where my check engine light is set to come on), and of course I do use meth! Its the only way to make big power on pump gas! I say its a must for a boosted streetcar!
I'm pushing a bit of coolant, but nothing to worry about! I'm using ARP head studs, but they've been used a few times, so I'm sure they've stretched. I didn't have a perfect finish on both my head and block so I used a composite gasket so it seals the imperfections better. Over the winter when I put back in my built bottom-end I'll be putting in some new L19 headstuds along with one of the good Felpro HGs. I'll be looking to run 35-37psi next year! I very rarely knock, almost never see 2 degrees of retard (thats where my check engine light is set to come on), and of course I do use meth! Its the only way to make big power on pump gas! I say its a must for a boosted streetcar!
#22
a 16g is in the near future but for the time being id like to see what a 14b is truly capable of ....so for the mean time id like to milk it for all its worth if i can rack off 1-2 consistant 12 sec passes on a 14b id be more than happy untill i could afford to step up to a 16g...abd the proper engine managemant id need to accomodate the upgrade...
#23
Low 11's
I'm pushing a bit of coolant, but nothing to worry about! I'm using ARP head studs, but they've been used a few times, so I'm sure they've stretched. I didn't have a perfect finish on both my head and block so I used a composite gasket so it seals the imperfections better. Over the winter when I put back in my built bottom-end I'll be putting in some new L19 headstuds along with one of the good Felpro HGs. I'll be looking to run 35-37psi next year! I very rarely knock, almost never see 2 degrees of retard (thats where my check engine light is set to come on), and of course I do use meth! Its the only way to make big power on pump gas! I say its a must for a boosted streetcar!
I'm pushing a bit of coolant, but nothing to worry about! I'm using ARP head studs, but they've been used a few times, so I'm sure they've stretched. I didn't have a perfect finish on both my head and block so I used a composite gasket so it seals the imperfections better. Over the winter when I put back in my built bottom-end I'll be putting in some new L19 headstuds along with one of the good Felpro HGs. I'll be looking to run 35-37psi next year! I very rarely knock, almost never see 2 degrees of retard (thats where my check engine light is set to come on), and of course I do use meth! Its the only way to make big power on pump gas! I say its a must for a boosted streetcar!
#24
I have a cheap progressive controller. Mine has a turn-on point, and a max point, and 10 pre-set deliveries. 1 being the mildest, and 10 being the most aggressive. There are much better ones on the market. But the basic on/off type work well too.
Last edited by DSMonster; 11-16-2007 at 05:22 PM.
#26
good question id also like the answer to .... nothing serious for the most part im using a 2g mas on an s-afc with some fic 750's...all parts on there way cant wait to get this bitch working properly....
wilddog whats your setup ??
wilddog whats your setup ??
#27
...
Last edited by wilddog; 11-21-2007 at 02:37 PM.
#29
ha, there is only 1 other person I can think of that runs these times on a stock block and is also a tuning-master
Last edited by wilddog; 11-21-2007 at 02:37 PM.
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