A Camaro I bought with a few questions
05-10-2007, 10:42 PM
#1
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A Camaro I bought with a few questions
To make a very, very long story sort of shorter...
I bought a 94 Camaro with an LT1 from a Dealership of all places. It needed a lot of work, but I have a 93 Camaro Lt1 parts car.
The 94 I bought didn't come to me stock. Not at all. I could tell test driving it that it was faster then my old 93. What I have noticed..
It's got...K&N cold air filter charger, welded sub frame connectors, an SLP tag on the throttle body with the bolt on divider thing for air flow, the intake manifold is painted red on top but the paint smears with carb cleaner, full exhaust with headers and an electric cut out. The engine bay is clean. A/C works lol. All the hoses are painted nicely red. Inside it has the gauge pods, white gauges, painted certain areas, SS rims, new Mayco paint ect....all in all not a bad car with about 101k for $3500. Just so you know what I'm dealing with.
Anyone know how I can track down the old owner...dealership won't tell me.
How can I tell if it's really an Lt4 intake, it seems like a fake. Someone I know said it was real. ( I am learning here, I don't know Lt1s yet )
What's a good book for building up an Lt1 motor. I plan on a 383 or if it's possible 396. How about a good book for 94 Camaros.
Any feelings on the best way to high 11s? No spray, all motor.
Any ideas on what the horse power could potentially be? It will get crazy squirlly at 40 when the autotrans kicks down. Better tires could help that though, but they ain't that bad.
Just wondering.....cause my father's got a 92 Corvette that I have teased that my Camaro will smoke it.
Feels much faster then my 350 Ramjet powered 72 Chevelle.
I bought a 94 Camaro with an LT1 from a Dealership of all places. It needed a lot of work, but I have a 93 Camaro Lt1 parts car.
The 94 I bought didn't come to me stock. Not at all. I could tell test driving it that it was faster then my old 93. What I have noticed..
It's got...K&N cold air filter charger, welded sub frame connectors, an SLP tag on the throttle body with the bolt on divider thing for air flow, the intake manifold is painted red on top but the paint smears with carb cleaner, full exhaust with headers and an electric cut out. The engine bay is clean. A/C works lol. All the hoses are painted nicely red. Inside it has the gauge pods, white gauges, painted certain areas, SS rims, new Mayco paint ect....all in all not a bad car with about 101k for $3500. Just so you know what I'm dealing with.
Anyone know how I can track down the old owner...dealership won't tell me.
How can I tell if it's really an Lt4 intake, it seems like a fake. Someone I know said it was real. ( I am learning here, I don't know Lt1s yet )
What's a good book for building up an Lt1 motor. I plan on a 383 or if it's possible 396. How about a good book for 94 Camaros.
Any feelings on the best way to high 11s? No spray, all motor.
Any ideas on what the horse power could potentially be? It will get crazy squirlly at 40 when the autotrans kicks down. Better tires could help that though, but they ain't that bad.
Just wondering.....cause my father's got a 92 Corvette that I have teased that my Camaro will smoke it.
Feels much faster then my 350 Ramjet powered 72 Chevelle.
05-10-2007, 11:15 PM
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if it has the main bolt on mods like you said (headers, full exhaust, air foil, and prolly some other things you havent noticed yet, such as a computer tune(how does the trans shift)) it is prolly in the neighborhood of 270-290 horsepower. however if it has some engine modifications such as roller rockers, a ported intake or any headwork or perhaps a cam (you would hear the cam at idle tho) it can be anywhere between 270 up to around 320 horsepower. if it doesnt have a cam, it is really unlikely its any more than that tho. i would clean it up, start driving it and get used to it, see what it needs and what it doesnt, fix anything that needs to be done ASAP and see how it goes.
i will recomend "How to rebuilt LT1/LT4 engines"
it can be found here.....http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-.../dp/1557883939
purchase that book, get reading and decide what approach you would like to take. if the car has an auto trans....
i would say to get anywhere in the 11's, you need a solid motor (stock shortblock will work, but built bottom end to rev to 7k or so would be better) and then a cam to make the power where you want it (between 5,500 and 6,300 max on a stock motor, up to w/e the motor can take if its a rebuilt motor with a stout bottom end) then you will need some decent head work, a well built trans with a shift kit, trans cooler and absoultely positively a stall speed converter, at least 3200 prolly if you wanna get out the hole anywhere quickly, however match the weight, gears in the rear end, RPMs and all that of the car to the camshaft and the torque converter properly. in other words, you dont want a 7500k RPM cam in an awesomely built motor, backed up by a 2,500 stall and 3.23 gears(prolly what are in the car now, unless they were changed to something higher). if your new to LT1's, take your time, read a lot and i suggest visiting www.camaroz28.com for research on popular modifications and engine building. theres countless guys running all motor cars. i recall seeing a guy with a cc503 (a fairly middle of the line cam that is extremely streetable and only runs to about 6,200 RPM) with an automatic camaro and the main supporting mods, running high 11's with a stock motor and stock heads. so if you put together a well thought out and setup combination, you can do a lot. all i can say is read, read, read and decide where you wanna take the car before you start buying parts and throwing them at it. good luck.
i will recomend "How to rebuilt LT1/LT4 engines"
it can be found here.....http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-.../dp/1557883939
purchase that book, get reading and decide what approach you would like to take. if the car has an auto trans....
i would say to get anywhere in the 11's, you need a solid motor (stock shortblock will work, but built bottom end to rev to 7k or so would be better) and then a cam to make the power where you want it (between 5,500 and 6,300 max on a stock motor, up to w/e the motor can take if its a rebuilt motor with a stout bottom end) then you will need some decent head work, a well built trans with a shift kit, trans cooler and absoultely positively a stall speed converter, at least 3200 prolly if you wanna get out the hole anywhere quickly, however match the weight, gears in the rear end, RPMs and all that of the car to the camshaft and the torque converter properly. in other words, you dont want a 7500k RPM cam in an awesomely built motor, backed up by a 2,500 stall and 3.23 gears(prolly what are in the car now, unless they were changed to something higher). if your new to LT1's, take your time, read a lot and i suggest visiting www.camaroz28.com for research on popular modifications and engine building. theres countless guys running all motor cars. i recall seeing a guy with a cc503 (a fairly middle of the line cam that is extremely streetable and only runs to about 6,200 RPM) with an automatic camaro and the main supporting mods, running high 11's with a stock motor and stock heads. so if you put together a well thought out and setup combination, you can do a lot. all i can say is read, read, read and decide where you wanna take the car before you start buying parts and throwing them at it. good luck.
05-11-2007, 02:39 PM
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Is it just the fins that are painted red on top or is it the whole manifold that's red with silver fins? This is an LT-4 intake. Now if it's painted like that, then it might be a little harder to tell if it's real or not. However, if the paint smears easily, I would guess it's a fake.
05-12-2007, 02:27 AM
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first off welcome. Secondly I agree with matt ....read up on as much as u can about ur car and definately drive it to figure out any problems it may have and fix them. If u dont u will end up like this.......
05-12-2007, 04:25 PM
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If you just want the time slip, take the time and moeny to set up your suspension first, then start making you power. With proper suspension you could potentially knock off at least half a second or more with a properly set-up car.
450 horse with a good driver and chassis could reach 11's. Its not as hard as people think.
450 horse with a good driver and chassis could reach 11's. Its not as hard as people think.
05-13-2007, 07:30 PM
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Hi guys. I should have mentioned that I don't hear a cam. It's got some rumble, but I don't think it's cammed.
The intake is only red on the top. The paint is now smeared on there because of my cleaning after the winter. I was ticked when I did that, cus now it looks like crap. I imagine that it's fake. Darn. (can't cuss)
I actually have had the car since fall, but because of the cold it's only been rarely driven. I have fixed a lot of things, from windows, to ball joints, radio, dash, tires etc.
I imagined that the rear end was going to have to be done up some. It's a ten bolt right? I honestly haven't looked. lol. I don't even know what gears are in it. 3.23 stock?
How I was taught to build a car is you start at the rear and work your way forward. So I am going to attack the rearend first. But I am afraid that maybe, just maybe it has a gear already. What Rpm are you guys at when going 60 (or some number) with the stock trans?
Any recommendations on a rear end? What gear? What size carrier it's got. Do I have to worry about it blowing up?
The intake is only red on the top. The paint is now smeared on there because of my cleaning after the winter. I was ticked when I did that, cus now it looks like crap. I imagine that it's fake. Darn. (can't cuss)
I actually have had the car since fall, but because of the cold it's only been rarely driven. I have fixed a lot of things, from windows, to ball joints, radio, dash, tires etc.
I imagined that the rear end was going to have to be done up some. It's a ten bolt right? I honestly haven't looked. lol. I don't even know what gears are in it. 3.23 stock?
How I was taught to build a car is you start at the rear and work your way forward. So I am going to attack the rearend first. But I am afraid that maybe, just maybe it has a gear already. What Rpm are you guys at when going 60 (or some number) with the stock trans?
Any recommendations on a rear end? What gear? What size carrier it's got. Do I have to worry about it blowing up?
05-13-2007, 07:48 PM
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if the car is an auto it has 3.23s or 2.73s, if it's a 6 speed, it has 3.42s. if your 93 is a 6 speed however, it will have 3.23s.
the stock rearend is a 7.5" 10 bolt. it is the biggest peice of garbage ever. if you plan to drag race or do any punishment on the drivetrain, you will need a different rear end. the stock one is simply too small to handle alot of abuse. a rear girdle will stiffen it up and prevent a little shock which causes ring and pinion damage, however it will not last many holeshots with sticky tires no matter what you to do it.
the best option if you have the money is a 12 bolt or a 9 inch drop in rear end from Moser or Strange. other companies prolly make them too but these are the most popular. they are based off the popular 12 bolt and 9 inch ford rear ends that came in older muscle cars however they are totally different because of the fact that it needs a torque arm mount, panhard bar and lower control arm mounts, just a totally different size and shape rear end. you will end up dropping at least a few thousand for one tho, however they really are the only option for these cars unless you wanna keep rebuilding your broken rear end or putting a new complete factory rear end in every time(which can be had for about 100 bucks if you look) however you will just keep breaking them.
if the car is an auto i would suggest rebuilding it with some mild race parts, deffinitely a trans cooler, stall and shift kit like i said earlier and the computer willl need to be tuned to shift at the right points to match your engines limits and whatnot.
if you have a 6 speed, throw a good cluth in(Mcleod twin disc can be had for around a grand) and you will be good to go asuming it has no current problems and you know how to drive decently. these T56's can handle around 500 horse with no modifications done so your good there.
however idk what you have for a trans.
thats the basic info about the drivetrain in these cars.
my 6 speed with stock 3.42 gears is at about 1800 rpm at 80 mph.
if you have an auto a favorable gear is 3.73, with a 6 speed, the 2 overdrives allow for 4.10s to be a comfortable yet extremely noticable difference. any of these gears in a stock rearend tho can be fun, but wont last with sticky tires like i said.lol
the stock rearend is a 7.5" 10 bolt. it is the biggest peice of garbage ever. if you plan to drag race or do any punishment on the drivetrain, you will need a different rear end. the stock one is simply too small to handle alot of abuse. a rear girdle will stiffen it up and prevent a little shock which causes ring and pinion damage, however it will not last many holeshots with sticky tires no matter what you to do it.
the best option if you have the money is a 12 bolt or a 9 inch drop in rear end from Moser or Strange. other companies prolly make them too but these are the most popular. they are based off the popular 12 bolt and 9 inch ford rear ends that came in older muscle cars however they are totally different because of the fact that it needs a torque arm mount, panhard bar and lower control arm mounts, just a totally different size and shape rear end. you will end up dropping at least a few thousand for one tho, however they really are the only option for these cars unless you wanna keep rebuilding your broken rear end or putting a new complete factory rear end in every time(which can be had for about 100 bucks if you look) however you will just keep breaking them.
if the car is an auto i would suggest rebuilding it with some mild race parts, deffinitely a trans cooler, stall and shift kit like i said earlier and the computer willl need to be tuned to shift at the right points to match your engines limits and whatnot.
if you have a 6 speed, throw a good cluth in(Mcleod twin disc can be had for around a grand) and you will be good to go asuming it has no current problems and you know how to drive decently. these T56's can handle around 500 horse with no modifications done so your good there.
however idk what you have for a trans.
thats the basic info about the drivetrain in these cars.
my 6 speed with stock 3.42 gears is at about 1800 rpm at 80 mph.
if you have an auto a favorable gear is 3.73, with a 6 speed, the 2 overdrives allow for 4.10s to be a comfortable yet extremely noticable difference. any of these gears in a stock rearend tho can be fun, but wont last with sticky tires like i said.lol
05-13-2007, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattedroom
.... I was ticked when I did that, cus now it looks like crap. I imagine that it's fake. Darn. (can't cuss).....
Hehe, can't cuss huh? That'll change if you do your own work on the car.
05-17-2007, 08:44 PM
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Ya, I can't really write WTF out.
Anyways, I have started researching. WTF? A small 10 bolt? It can't handle much. I ain't made of money and dropping 2k on a 12 bolt don't sound like fun. Yet, I don't like the idea of losing a carrier on the track. I'll be "that guy".
So that's where i am at. Learning a little at the moment. Hating the rear end.
I have also come to find out that the Auto in the 93 is different then the auto in the 94. Most of you already know that. But I can use the 93's tranny in my Chevelle after the tranny gets beefed up. I have always wanted a 700R4 in it. The 93 seems to be the bastard year for a lot of things.
Thanks for the replies. I'll be lurking around all these sites now absorbing info on my newer money pit. Still annoyed at the small 10 bolt.
Anyways, I have started researching. WTF? A small 10 bolt? It can't handle much. I ain't made of money and dropping 2k on a 12 bolt don't sound like fun. Yet, I don't like the idea of losing a carrier on the track. I'll be "that guy".
So that's where i am at. Learning a little at the moment. Hating the rear end.
I have also come to find out that the Auto in the 93 is different then the auto in the 94. Most of you already know that. But I can use the 93's tranny in my Chevelle after the tranny gets beefed up. I have always wanted a 700R4 in it. The 93 seems to be the bastard year for a lot of things.
Thanks for the replies. I'll be lurking around all these sites now absorbing info on my newer money pit. Still annoyed at the small 10 bolt.
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