She goes under the knife for 2007
#61
looks good paar but the only thing i can say about the appearence on your car(coming from a kid with no appearance) the gap between tires and wheel wells is bad. it needs lowered a little.....not much a little and i think that could finish it
#63
I like them an enormous amount more than your old rims parr, but for some reason the chrome lip sticks out from the rest of the car to me. Dont get me wrong, I dont think it looks 'bad', its just odd. Maybe it'll be different when you get some shiny rotors
#64
i'd say some 93-96 tail lights, drop, and it will be as hell.
just a lil comment, up close the black gfx and spoiler look outta place, and the wheels dont have enough details to stand out, they seem like flat featureless 5 spokes, but then again, it could be the pics. i'll wait til adric takes some shots
just a lil comment, up close the black gfx and spoiler look outta place, and the wheels dont have enough details to stand out, they seem like flat featureless 5 spokes, but then again, it could be the pics. i'll wait til adric takes some shots
#66
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same as you I believe. 245/40 275/35
I am actually thinking about lowering it guys... I gotta make some measurements, but Id like to find a spring with an inch drop or maybe a bit more. And I HAD shiney rotors... but theyve been used for a half a year now haha... Im really lookin into the rear disk conversion though if I can find somthing for a good price.
I am actually thinking about lowering it guys... I gotta make some measurements, but Id like to find a spring with an inch drop or maybe a bit more. And I HAD shiney rotors... but theyve been used for a half a year now haha... Im really lookin into the rear disk conversion though if I can find somthing for a good price.
#68
Originally Posted by paarman97maro
same as you I believe. 245/40 275/35
I am actually thinking about lowering it guys... I gotta make some measurements, but Id like to find a spring with an inch drop or maybe a bit more. And I HAD shiney rotors... but theyve been used for a half a year now haha... Im really lookin into the rear disk conversion though if I can find somthing for a good price.
I am actually thinking about lowering it guys... I gotta make some measurements, but Id like to find a spring with an inch drop or maybe a bit more. And I HAD shiney rotors... but theyve been used for a half a year now haha... Im really lookin into the rear disk conversion though if I can find somthing for a good price.
#70
sportlines are only for V8s. you can get em and they'll fit, but it wont handle right and the front end will sit higher than the rear.
as far as parts and labor, you can find em for 200 plus shipping. its a good idea to do shocks/struts same time, so then that gets into the 450-600 range for those. for example, i plan on sportlines for mine, 205, then revalved bilsteins from strano, 530. then new strut bushings are 150. so total cost without the supporting suspension mods is 885. supporting mods are 345 and an alignment runs 60. so my total cost doing my own labor is $1300
labor is easy IMO, cuz im certified the rear is easy, for both shocks and springs. straight forth. lower the rear and the springs will fall out. dont worry about em shooting out. the fronts are trickier, at least thats what i hear. still easy. unbolt upper ball joint, unbolt master cylinder, unbolt strut bushing, unbolt lower strut bolts. then push the lower a arm down and remove strut assembly.
it may go differently than that, i havent done it in awhile, but i mean its straight forth like i said. once the strut assembly is out, you need a strut compressor, autozone or a shop if you know of one that has a wall mounted one. swap it all out and slap it back in.
of course there is more to lowering a car than just springs tho. you will need LCA relocation brackets and an adjustable panhard bar for sure, then possibly bump steer tie rod ends. and of course an alignment. lowering it shouldnt mess with the camber too much on our cars. the short long arm setup is pretty good about that, but still do it cuz i can garauntee is wil change some.
as far as parts and labor, you can find em for 200 plus shipping. its a good idea to do shocks/struts same time, so then that gets into the 450-600 range for those. for example, i plan on sportlines for mine, 205, then revalved bilsteins from strano, 530. then new strut bushings are 150. so total cost without the supporting suspension mods is 885. supporting mods are 345 and an alignment runs 60. so my total cost doing my own labor is $1300
labor is easy IMO, cuz im certified the rear is easy, for both shocks and springs. straight forth. lower the rear and the springs will fall out. dont worry about em shooting out. the fronts are trickier, at least thats what i hear. still easy. unbolt upper ball joint, unbolt master cylinder, unbolt strut bushing, unbolt lower strut bolts. then push the lower a arm down and remove strut assembly.
it may go differently than that, i havent done it in awhile, but i mean its straight forth like i said. once the strut assembly is out, you need a strut compressor, autozone or a shop if you know of one that has a wall mounted one. swap it all out and slap it back in.
of course there is more to lowering a car than just springs tho. you will need LCA relocation brackets and an adjustable panhard bar for sure, then possibly bump steer tie rod ends. and of course an alignment. lowering it shouldnt mess with the camber too much on our cars. the short long arm setup is pretty good about that, but still do it cuz i can garauntee is wil change some.
#72
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Originally Posted by Adric
So basically it would be a weke long process for our retarded asses if we attempted it this summer.
so maybe **** that idea and the 1300 it comes with just to make it look a hair better lol..
#73
nah. took me two hours to do front and rear shocks/struts/springs on a 01 bird.
and since youre doing progressive rate springs your car is going to handle better, especially now that youve got 18s. your lack of sidewall will make your car handle nicely, so you'll need sway bars and a strut tower brace, so add another $470
and since youre doing progressive rate springs your car is going to handle better, especially now that youve got 18s. your lack of sidewall will make your car handle nicely, so you'll need sway bars and a strut tower brace, so add another $470
#75
Originally Posted by paarman97maro
basically.
so maybe **** that idea and the 1300 it comes with just to make it look a hair better lol..
so maybe **** that idea and the 1300 it comes with just to make it look a hair better lol..
honestly you dont need all the **** i mentioned, but thats the CORRECT way to do it. many people just slap springs in it and use the old shocks/struts and dont mess with the suspension, they just do it, align it, and be done with it.