B20LS/VTEC FAQ, Parts List, Build--up (w/pics)
08-02-2006, 02:25 PM
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B20LS/VTEC FAQ, Parts List, Build--up (w/pics)
Hey gang. This is a repost that I threw up at GTCars.ca but thought I should post it here as well. Buildup with pics added
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B20/LSVTEC FAQ
Q: How long will my LS/B20VTEC motor last?
A: A well-built setup should last as long as any Honda motor.
Q: How much does a LS/B20VTEC setup cost?
A: It depends. A basic LSVTEC long block can be put together for around $1000 $US worth of parts.
Q: What’s the best ECU for my LS/B20VTEC?
A: During the break-in period, a stock LS (P75) or GSR (P72) ECU can be used. For the best performance results, the engine needs to be tuned. The options are uberdata, Crome, Hondata, NepTune and … along with a socketed ECU or more professional, standalone ECUs such as AEM EMS, Motec and ….
Q: What oil pump do I need?
A: It is better to run a VTEC oil pump.
Q: What timing belt do I need?
A: It depends on the type of water pump used. A GSR/ITR belt should be used if a 22T VTEC water pump is used. An LS belt should be used if you’re using an LS water pump.
Q: What head gasket do I need?
A: An OEM LS/B20 head gasket should be used. The dowel pin holes need to be enlarged to accept the wider VTEC dowel pins. The alternative is to use a Golden Eagle B20/LSVTEC head gasket.
Q: What VTEC oil supply kit do I need?
A: You can buy a pre-made kit such as the Golden Eagle kit. There are a lot of different kits on EBay also. You can build your own kit too. The fitting size for the head is a 3/8 BSP (or NPT), and for the block is a 1/8 BSP (or NPT). What you need is a 3/8” BSP (or NPT) to 6AN adapter, about 2 feet of 6AN SS braided line, 2 6AN female ends, and the appropriate fitting for the block (depending how many accessories you want to run off the oil pressure sensor location). Use thread sealant on all the connections.
Q: What OEM piston options do I have?
A: For an LSVTEC, you can use B16, GSR, ITR or CTR pistons to bump up the compression. For a B20VTEC, you’re only limited to B20B and B20Z pistons.
Q: How high can I rev my motor safely?
A: B20 blocks have weak sleeves that are prone to failing under high cylinder wall loads. For maximum longevity, it’s best to keep to rpms within the factory suggested range (redline of 7000 rpm). A few higher revs once in a while wouldn’t hurt the motor. LS blocks are stronger than B20s and can take more abuse, but an engine should be revved up to where it’s making power.
Q: How does the B20VTEC and boost/nitrous combination work?
A: We don’t recommend this at all. A few people here and there have had luck, but most of the people who have attempted this have failed miserably. B20 sleeves are very weak and prone to failing under high cylinder wall loads.
Q: What cylinder head is best for my B20/LSVTEC setup?
A: In the stock shape, ITR/CTR would be the best, due to its better cams, lighter valves, superior LMAs, better valve springs and the mildly ported intake runners. If ITR/CTR is not within the price range, the other options are B16/B17 or GSR. B16/B17 heads flow better than GSRs, but GSRs have smaller combustion chambers, so they would yield slightly higher compression ratios. It is best to make up the compression ratio with proper size pistons and use a better flowing head.
Q: Do I need a crank girdle with my B20/LSVTEC setup?
A: Unless it’s a full-blown race motor that will be revved insanely high, a crank girdle won’t be needed.
Q: Can I use a block guard to increase the strength of my block?
A: Block guards are garbage. They restrict the flow of coolant where coolant is needed the most, where most of the cracks start, top of the sleeves! Block posting is a more effective method than using a block guard.
B20/LSVTEC Parts List
This is a parts list to put together a basic B20/LSVTEC long block.
• VTEC Cylinder Head Assembly (B16, GSR, ITR)
• B20/LS Block
• B20/LS Head Gasket (depending on which block you go with)
• Stepped dowel pins
• Cylinder Head Drain Plug (1/8” NPT plug and tap)
• VTEC Oil Supply Line
• GSR/ITR Head Studs/Bolts
• LS/B20 Water Pump and Timing Belt or GSR/ITR/B16 Water pump and Timing belt
************************************************** ***
B20/LSVTEC FAQ
Q: How long will my LS/B20VTEC motor last?
A: A well-built setup should last as long as any Honda motor.
Q: How much does a LS/B20VTEC setup cost?
A: It depends. A basic LSVTEC long block can be put together for around $1000 $US worth of parts.
Q: What’s the best ECU for my LS/B20VTEC?
A: During the break-in period, a stock LS (P75) or GSR (P72) ECU can be used. For the best performance results, the engine needs to be tuned. The options are uberdata, Crome, Hondata, NepTune and … along with a socketed ECU or more professional, standalone ECUs such as AEM EMS, Motec and ….
Q: What oil pump do I need?
A: It is better to run a VTEC oil pump.
Q: What timing belt do I need?
A: It depends on the type of water pump used. A GSR/ITR belt should be used if a 22T VTEC water pump is used. An LS belt should be used if you’re using an LS water pump.
Q: What head gasket do I need?
A: An OEM LS/B20 head gasket should be used. The dowel pin holes need to be enlarged to accept the wider VTEC dowel pins. The alternative is to use a Golden Eagle B20/LSVTEC head gasket.
Q: What VTEC oil supply kit do I need?
A: You can buy a pre-made kit such as the Golden Eagle kit. There are a lot of different kits on EBay also. You can build your own kit too. The fitting size for the head is a 3/8 BSP (or NPT), and for the block is a 1/8 BSP (or NPT). What you need is a 3/8” BSP (or NPT) to 6AN adapter, about 2 feet of 6AN SS braided line, 2 6AN female ends, and the appropriate fitting for the block (depending how many accessories you want to run off the oil pressure sensor location). Use thread sealant on all the connections.
Q: What OEM piston options do I have?
A: For an LSVTEC, you can use B16, GSR, ITR or CTR pistons to bump up the compression. For a B20VTEC, you’re only limited to B20B and B20Z pistons.
Q: How high can I rev my motor safely?
A: B20 blocks have weak sleeves that are prone to failing under high cylinder wall loads. For maximum longevity, it’s best to keep to rpms within the factory suggested range (redline of 7000 rpm). A few higher revs once in a while wouldn’t hurt the motor. LS blocks are stronger than B20s and can take more abuse, but an engine should be revved up to where it’s making power.
Q: How does the B20VTEC and boost/nitrous combination work?
A: We don’t recommend this at all. A few people here and there have had luck, but most of the people who have attempted this have failed miserably. B20 sleeves are very weak and prone to failing under high cylinder wall loads.
Q: What cylinder head is best for my B20/LSVTEC setup?
A: In the stock shape, ITR/CTR would be the best, due to its better cams, lighter valves, superior LMAs, better valve springs and the mildly ported intake runners. If ITR/CTR is not within the price range, the other options are B16/B17 or GSR. B16/B17 heads flow better than GSRs, but GSRs have smaller combustion chambers, so they would yield slightly higher compression ratios. It is best to make up the compression ratio with proper size pistons and use a better flowing head.
Q: Do I need a crank girdle with my B20/LSVTEC setup?
A: Unless it’s a full-blown race motor that will be revved insanely high, a crank girdle won’t be needed.
Q: Can I use a block guard to increase the strength of my block?
A: Block guards are garbage. They restrict the flow of coolant where coolant is needed the most, where most of the cracks start, top of the sleeves! Block posting is a more effective method than using a block guard.
B20/LSVTEC Parts List
This is a parts list to put together a basic B20/LSVTEC long block.
• VTEC Cylinder Head Assembly (B16, GSR, ITR)
• B20/LS Block
• B20/LS Head Gasket (depending on which block you go with)
• Stepped dowel pins
• Cylinder Head Drain Plug (1/8” NPT plug and tap)
• VTEC Oil Supply Line
• GSR/ITR Head Studs/Bolts
• LS/B20 Water Pump and Timing Belt or GSR/ITR/B16 Water pump and Timing belt
08-02-2006, 02:28 PM
#2
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B20 build up (w/pics) - Enjoy.
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