How much brake fluid would ge good?
05-11-2006, 11:21 AM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
scube wrote:
> Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
> That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> mixed together that way.
>
> Has anyone tackled replacing a Master Cylinder?
>
> I am concerned about setting the pushrod freeplay. Any
> suggestions? The honda manual has a special tool that is used, and
> Tegger's method of MC changes (at his website
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html) uses
> an alternate and interesting approach as well. This would be my main
> concern, as I wouldn't want my brakes to slowly lock on me while
> driving, nor would I want them to not slow me down...<grin>
One more time...have someone there who has done more than one brake job
before or have it done by a mechanic. It isn't something to <grin>
about.
>
> Thanks all...
05-11-2006, 05:33 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
On 11 May 2006 07:00:00 -0700, "scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
>first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
>into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
>That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
>installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
>mixed together that way.
>
> Has anyone tackled replacing a Master Cylinder?
i did it in my 88 civic december 04. had to walk to the advance to get
the parts, walk back, and then fit it. Had to work kinda quick too,
since my wife had to use it for a job interview the next morning (it
was our only car at the time). alas, the house had no garage, or
shelter, and was below freezing by the time i finished, at 2am. Did it
on a similar age caravan about ayear ago, went much smoother, thanks
to the practice. both times i had haynes manuals to help me through
it.
>
> I am concerned about setting the pushrod freeplay. Any
>suggestions? The honda manual has a special tool that is used, and
>Tegger's method of MC changes (at his website
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html) uses
>an alternate and interesting approach as well. This would be my main
>concern, as I wouldn't want my brakes to slowly lock on me while
>driving, nor would I want them to not slow me down...<grin>
>
> Thanks all...
>Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
>first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
>into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
>That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
>installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
>mixed together that way.
>
> Has anyone tackled replacing a Master Cylinder?
i did it in my 88 civic december 04. had to walk to the advance to get
the parts, walk back, and then fit it. Had to work kinda quick too,
since my wife had to use it for a job interview the next morning (it
was our only car at the time). alas, the house had no garage, or
shelter, and was below freezing by the time i finished, at 2am. Did it
on a similar age caravan about ayear ago, went much smoother, thanks
to the practice. both times i had haynes manuals to help me through
it.
>
> I am concerned about setting the pushrod freeplay. Any
>suggestions? The honda manual has a special tool that is used, and
>Tegger's method of MC changes (at his website
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html) uses
>an alternate and interesting approach as well. This would be my main
>concern, as I wouldn't want my brakes to slowly lock on me while
>driving, nor would I want them to not slow me down...<grin>
>
> Thanks all...
05-11-2006, 05:33 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
On 11 May 2006 07:00:00 -0700, "scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
>first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
>into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
>That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
>installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
>mixed together that way.
>
> Has anyone tackled replacing a Master Cylinder?
i did it in my 88 civic december 04. had to walk to the advance to get
the parts, walk back, and then fit it. Had to work kinda quick too,
since my wife had to use it for a job interview the next morning (it
was our only car at the time). alas, the house had no garage, or
shelter, and was below freezing by the time i finished, at 2am. Did it
on a similar age caravan about ayear ago, went much smoother, thanks
to the practice. both times i had haynes manuals to help me through
it.
>
> I am concerned about setting the pushrod freeplay. Any
>suggestions? The honda manual has a special tool that is used, and
>Tegger's method of MC changes (at his website
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html) uses
>an alternate and interesting approach as well. This would be my main
>concern, as I wouldn't want my brakes to slowly lock on me while
>driving, nor would I want them to not slow me down...<grin>
>
> Thanks all...
>Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
>first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
>into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
>That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
>installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
>mixed together that way.
>
> Has anyone tackled replacing a Master Cylinder?
i did it in my 88 civic december 04. had to walk to the advance to get
the parts, walk back, and then fit it. Had to work kinda quick too,
since my wife had to use it for a job interview the next morning (it
was our only car at the time). alas, the house had no garage, or
shelter, and was below freezing by the time i finished, at 2am. Did it
on a similar age caravan about ayear ago, went much smoother, thanks
to the practice. both times i had haynes manuals to help me through
it.
>
> I am concerned about setting the pushrod freeplay. Any
>suggestions? The honda manual has a special tool that is used, and
>Tegger's method of MC changes (at his website
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html) uses
>an alternate and interesting approach as well. This would be my main
>concern, as I wouldn't want my brakes to slowly lock on me while
>driving, nor would I want them to not slow me down...<grin>
>
> Thanks all...
05-11-2006, 05:33 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
On 11 May 2006 07:00:00 -0700, "scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
>first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
>into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
>That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
>installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
>mixed together that way.
>
> Has anyone tackled replacing a Master Cylinder?
i did it in my 88 civic december 04. had to walk to the advance to get
the parts, walk back, and then fit it. Had to work kinda quick too,
since my wife had to use it for a job interview the next morning (it
was our only car at the time). alas, the house had no garage, or
shelter, and was below freezing by the time i finished, at 2am. Did it
on a similar age caravan about ayear ago, went much smoother, thanks
to the practice. both times i had haynes manuals to help me through
it.
>
> I am concerned about setting the pushrod freeplay. Any
>suggestions? The honda manual has a special tool that is used, and
>Tegger's method of MC changes (at his website
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html) uses
>an alternate and interesting approach as well. This would be my main
>concern, as I wouldn't want my brakes to slowly lock on me while
>driving, nor would I want them to not slow me down...<grin>
>
> Thanks all...
>Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
>first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
>into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
>That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
>installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
>mixed together that way.
>
> Has anyone tackled replacing a Master Cylinder?
i did it in my 88 civic december 04. had to walk to the advance to get
the parts, walk back, and then fit it. Had to work kinda quick too,
since my wife had to use it for a job interview the next morning (it
was our only car at the time). alas, the house had no garage, or
shelter, and was below freezing by the time i finished, at 2am. Did it
on a similar age caravan about ayear ago, went much smoother, thanks
to the practice. both times i had haynes manuals to help me through
it.
>
> I am concerned about setting the pushrod freeplay. Any
>suggestions? The honda manual has a special tool that is used, and
>Tegger's method of MC changes (at his website
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html) uses
>an alternate and interesting approach as well. This would be my main
>concern, as I wouldn't want my brakes to slowly lock on me while
>driving, nor would I want them to not slow me down...<grin>
>
> Thanks all...
05-11-2006, 06:08 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
scube wrote:
>
> Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
> That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> mixed together that way.
>
Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder. I
strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it for
a long, long time.
Eric
>
> Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
> That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> mixed together that way.
>
Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder. I
strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it for
a long, long time.
Eric
05-11-2006, 06:08 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
scube wrote:
>
> Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
> That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> mixed together that way.
>
Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder. I
strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it for
a long, long time.
Eric
>
> Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
> That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> mixed together that way.
>
Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder. I
strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it for
a long, long time.
Eric
05-11-2006, 06:08 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
scube wrote:
>
> Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
> That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> mixed together that way.
>
Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder. I
strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it for
a long, long time.
Eric
>
> Okay,
>
> Thanks for all the responses!!
>
> From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
>
> That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> mixed together that way.
>
Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder. I
strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it for
a long, long time.
Eric
05-11-2006, 07:06 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Eric wrote:
>
> scube wrote:
> >
> > Okay,
> >
> > Thanks for all the responses!!
> >
> > From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> > first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> > into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
> >
> > That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> > installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> > mixed together that way.
> >
>
> Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
> cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
> first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
> service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
> brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder.
> I strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
> bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it
> for a long, long time.
OK, here's one of my old posts which describes bench bleeding a master
cylinder, http://tinyurl.com/o5t6q.
Eric
>
> scube wrote:
> >
> > Okay,
> >
> > Thanks for all the responses!!
> >
> > From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> > first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> > into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
> >
> > That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> > installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> > mixed together that way.
> >
>
> Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
> cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
> first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
> service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
> brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder.
> I strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
> bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it
> for a long, long time.
OK, here's one of my old posts which describes bench bleeding a master
cylinder, http://tinyurl.com/o5t6q.
Eric
05-11-2006, 07:06 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Eric wrote:
>
> scube wrote:
> >
> > Okay,
> >
> > Thanks for all the responses!!
> >
> > From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> > first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> > into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
> >
> > That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> > installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> > mixed together that way.
> >
>
> Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
> cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
> first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
> service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
> brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder.
> I strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
> bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it
> for a long, long time.
OK, here's one of my old posts which describes bench bleeding a master
cylinder, http://tinyurl.com/o5t6q.
Eric
>
> scube wrote:
> >
> > Okay,
> >
> > Thanks for all the responses!!
> >
> > From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> > first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> > into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
> >
> > That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> > installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> > mixed together that way.
> >
>
> Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
> cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
> first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
> service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
> brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder.
> I strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
> bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it
> for a long, long time.
OK, here's one of my old posts which describes bench bleeding a master
cylinder, http://tinyurl.com/o5t6q.
Eric
05-11-2006, 07:06 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Eric wrote:
>
> scube wrote:
> >
> > Okay,
> >
> > Thanks for all the responses!!
> >
> > From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> > first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> > into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
> >
> > That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> > installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> > mixed together that way.
> >
>
> Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
> cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
> first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
> service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
> brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder.
> I strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
> bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it
> for a long, long time.
OK, here's one of my old posts which describes bench bleeding a master
cylinder, http://tinyurl.com/o5t6q.
Eric
>
> scube wrote:
> >
> > Okay,
> >
> > Thanks for all the responses!!
> >
> > From suggestions, I gather that I should empty the brake system
> > first, and then replace the master cylinder. I can pump the new fluid
> > into the system after I install the new MC, correct?
> >
> > That sounds like a good Idea actually. I was going to flush AFTER
> > installing the new MC, but I guess I could get some old/new fluids
> > mixed together that way.
> >
>
> Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
> cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
> first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
> service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
> brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder.
> I strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
> bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it
> for a long, long time.
OK, here's one of my old posts which describes bench bleeding a master
cylinder, http://tinyurl.com/o5t6q.
Eric
05-11-2006, 11:22 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Yep -- one still sees some advice about various means of informal
disposal; but the most up-to-date thinking is that used brake fluid
(or is it all brake fluid?) should be disposed of as hazmat. I think
the issue is some kind of heavy metal that's in there. And since
it's a glycol rather than a petroleum oil, you aren't supposed to put
it in with your motor oil/tranny fluid either.
If your town has a household hazmat center, that's a good place to take
it. Or see if the auto parts store where you bought the brake fluid
will accept it.
As for how much to buy -- get the big bottle and a couple of little
ones, or two big bottles (it isn't that expensive). Who wants to get
cleaned up and schlep down to the auto parts store halfway through the
job because they didn't have enough brake fluid? (Especially if you're
working on your only car!) And an unopened, sealed bottle will last.
Any opened bottle, on the other hand, should go into the waste bottle
with the old stuff (preferably after being pulled through the system
with your Mityvac or whatever other bleeding scheme you use).
Don't forget to bench-bleed the new master cylinder, too. In this and
other aspects, follow the instructions in the shop manual for the car.
Finally: after doing any brake work, do not set the car in motion
until you get a correct pedal feel, and proceed carefully for a few
blocks (stopping repeatedly) until you gain justified confidence in the
job.
Best of luck,
--Joe
disposal; but the most up-to-date thinking is that used brake fluid
(or is it all brake fluid?) should be disposed of as hazmat. I think
the issue is some kind of heavy metal that's in there. And since
it's a glycol rather than a petroleum oil, you aren't supposed to put
it in with your motor oil/tranny fluid either.
If your town has a household hazmat center, that's a good place to take
it. Or see if the auto parts store where you bought the brake fluid
will accept it.
As for how much to buy -- get the big bottle and a couple of little
ones, or two big bottles (it isn't that expensive). Who wants to get
cleaned up and schlep down to the auto parts store halfway through the
job because they didn't have enough brake fluid? (Especially if you're
working on your only car!) And an unopened, sealed bottle will last.
Any opened bottle, on the other hand, should go into the waste bottle
with the old stuff (preferably after being pulled through the system
with your Mityvac or whatever other bleeding scheme you use).
Don't forget to bench-bleed the new master cylinder, too. In this and
other aspects, follow the instructions in the shop manual for the car.
Finally: after doing any brake work, do not set the car in motion
until you get a correct pedal feel, and proceed carefully for a few
blocks (stopping repeatedly) until you gain justified confidence in the
job.
Best of luck,
--Joe
05-11-2006, 11:22 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Yep -- one still sees some advice about various means of informal
disposal; but the most up-to-date thinking is that used brake fluid
(or is it all brake fluid?) should be disposed of as hazmat. I think
the issue is some kind of heavy metal that's in there. And since
it's a glycol rather than a petroleum oil, you aren't supposed to put
it in with your motor oil/tranny fluid either.
If your town has a household hazmat center, that's a good place to take
it. Or see if the auto parts store where you bought the brake fluid
will accept it.
As for how much to buy -- get the big bottle and a couple of little
ones, or two big bottles (it isn't that expensive). Who wants to get
cleaned up and schlep down to the auto parts store halfway through the
job because they didn't have enough brake fluid? (Especially if you're
working on your only car!) And an unopened, sealed bottle will last.
Any opened bottle, on the other hand, should go into the waste bottle
with the old stuff (preferably after being pulled through the system
with your Mityvac or whatever other bleeding scheme you use).
Don't forget to bench-bleed the new master cylinder, too. In this and
other aspects, follow the instructions in the shop manual for the car.
Finally: after doing any brake work, do not set the car in motion
until you get a correct pedal feel, and proceed carefully for a few
blocks (stopping repeatedly) until you gain justified confidence in the
job.
Best of luck,
--Joe
disposal; but the most up-to-date thinking is that used brake fluid
(or is it all brake fluid?) should be disposed of as hazmat. I think
the issue is some kind of heavy metal that's in there. And since
it's a glycol rather than a petroleum oil, you aren't supposed to put
it in with your motor oil/tranny fluid either.
If your town has a household hazmat center, that's a good place to take
it. Or see if the auto parts store where you bought the brake fluid
will accept it.
As for how much to buy -- get the big bottle and a couple of little
ones, or two big bottles (it isn't that expensive). Who wants to get
cleaned up and schlep down to the auto parts store halfway through the
job because they didn't have enough brake fluid? (Especially if you're
working on your only car!) And an unopened, sealed bottle will last.
Any opened bottle, on the other hand, should go into the waste bottle
with the old stuff (preferably after being pulled through the system
with your Mityvac or whatever other bleeding scheme you use).
Don't forget to bench-bleed the new master cylinder, too. In this and
other aspects, follow the instructions in the shop manual for the car.
Finally: after doing any brake work, do not set the car in motion
until you get a correct pedal feel, and proceed carefully for a few
blocks (stopping repeatedly) until you gain justified confidence in the
job.
Best of luck,
--Joe
05-11-2006, 11:22 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Yep -- one still sees some advice about various means of informal
disposal; but the most up-to-date thinking is that used brake fluid
(or is it all brake fluid?) should be disposed of as hazmat. I think
the issue is some kind of heavy metal that's in there. And since
it's a glycol rather than a petroleum oil, you aren't supposed to put
it in with your motor oil/tranny fluid either.
If your town has a household hazmat center, that's a good place to take
it. Or see if the auto parts store where you bought the brake fluid
will accept it.
As for how much to buy -- get the big bottle and a couple of little
ones, or two big bottles (it isn't that expensive). Who wants to get
cleaned up and schlep down to the auto parts store halfway through the
job because they didn't have enough brake fluid? (Especially if you're
working on your only car!) And an unopened, sealed bottle will last.
Any opened bottle, on the other hand, should go into the waste bottle
with the old stuff (preferably after being pulled through the system
with your Mityvac or whatever other bleeding scheme you use).
Don't forget to bench-bleed the new master cylinder, too. In this and
other aspects, follow the instructions in the shop manual for the car.
Finally: after doing any brake work, do not set the car in motion
until you get a correct pedal feel, and proceed carefully for a few
blocks (stopping repeatedly) until you gain justified confidence in the
job.
Best of luck,
--Joe
disposal; but the most up-to-date thinking is that used brake fluid
(or is it all brake fluid?) should be disposed of as hazmat. I think
the issue is some kind of heavy metal that's in there. And since
it's a glycol rather than a petroleum oil, you aren't supposed to put
it in with your motor oil/tranny fluid either.
If your town has a household hazmat center, that's a good place to take
it. Or see if the auto parts store where you bought the brake fluid
will accept it.
As for how much to buy -- get the big bottle and a couple of little
ones, or two big bottles (it isn't that expensive). Who wants to get
cleaned up and schlep down to the auto parts store halfway through the
job because they didn't have enough brake fluid? (Especially if you're
working on your only car!) And an unopened, sealed bottle will last.
Any opened bottle, on the other hand, should go into the waste bottle
with the old stuff (preferably after being pulled through the system
with your Mityvac or whatever other bleeding scheme you use).
Don't forget to bench-bleed the new master cylinder, too. In this and
other aspects, follow the instructions in the shop manual for the car.
Finally: after doing any brake work, do not set the car in motion
until you get a correct pedal feel, and proceed carefully for a few
blocks (stopping repeatedly) until you gain justified confidence in the
job.
Best of luck,
--Joe
05-12-2006, 08:35 AM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Thanks guys and gals,
this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.
After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
contamination?
I appreciate it all...
this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.
After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
contamination?
I appreciate it all...
05-12-2006, 08:35 AM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
Thanks guys and gals,
this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.
After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
contamination?
I appreciate it all...
this is great data. Has anyone come across problems/solutions to
adjusting the freeplay on the pushrod? This was mentioned in the
manual and from other sources. This is my main concern.
After removing the brake lines from the old MASTER CYLINDER is there
any worries about getting air into the brake lines w/ the cylinder off?
Do these brake lines have a valve or anything that opens when it gets
screwed on to the master cylinder, or are they exposed to potential air
contamination?
I appreciate it all...