How much brake fluid would ge good?
05-13-2006, 02:04 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
The order of bleeding for the '93 accord is Rear Right, Front Left,
Rear Left, Front Right. I'm going to have to figure a way to tackle
the pushrod freeplay issue. Okay. I got my refurbished MC and so I'm
just waiting for the opportune moment, like when I have a 3day weekend
or something...
I've always got AAA to drag me to the mechanic ..
Rear Left, Front Right. I'm going to have to figure a way to tackle
the pushrod freeplay issue. Okay. I got my refurbished MC and so I'm
just waiting for the opportune moment, like when I have a 3day weekend
or something...
I've always got AAA to drag me to the mechanic ..
05-14-2006, 06:45 AM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1147525051.258320.272400@j73g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.
They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.
> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.
Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).
If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.
>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>
Hope it helps.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:1147525051.258320.272400@j73g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.
They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.
> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.
Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).
If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.
>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>
Hope it helps.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 06:45 AM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1147525051.258320.272400@j73g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.
They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.
> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.
Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).
If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.
>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>
Hope it helps.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:1147525051.258320.272400@j73g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.
They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.
> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.
Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).
If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.
>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>
Hope it helps.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 06:45 AM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1147525051.258320.272400@j73g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.
They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.
> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.
Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).
If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.
>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>
Hope it helps.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:1147525051.258320.272400@j73g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
> Tegger,
> I've read your pages many times. I am just a little in the dark
> when it comes to knowledge about those fluid pipes that screw into the
> master cylinder. I've been browsing that topic at your site for a
> while now, though the only thing I found of this problem is : (I'm
> using a quote out of one of the pages at that link you provided)
> "The open hydraulics on the MC will start to drip as soon as you remove
> the fittings. The fluid in the lines didn't drip out, so no danger of
> air in the lines that way"
>
> Can I ask a bit about this? I'm assuming the lines are stought
> enough that they don't sway much when disconnected from the MC and we
> can face them upwards so not to spill the fluid.
They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.
> I understand there
> will be some fliud dripping out, but I just want to be as certain as I
> can that I fully understand what you're saying about the procedure.
> Thinking about it just now I don't know that it would be horrible if a
> bit of air got in. I have to flush it anyways and the air should get
> bled out from that.
Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).
If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.
>
> Thanks all for the advice...
>
Hope it helps.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 06:46 AM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
> yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
> pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
> fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
they used as an assembly lube.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
> yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
> pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
> fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
they used as an assembly lube.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 06:46 AM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
> yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
> pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
> fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
they used as an assembly lube.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
> yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
> pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
> fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
they used as an assembly lube.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 06:46 AM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
> yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
> pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
> fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
they used as an assembly lube.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
> yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
> pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
> fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
they used as an assembly lube.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 11:32 AM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
TeGGeR® wrote:
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
>
>
>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
>>pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
>>fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>
>
>
>
> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
> they used as an assembly lube.
>
it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in
the garage for a season and watch what happens!
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
>
>
>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
>>pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
>>fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>
>
>
>
> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
> they used as an assembly lube.
>
it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in
the garage for a season and watch what happens!
05-14-2006, 11:32 AM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
TeGGeR® wrote:
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
>
>
>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
>>pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
>>fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>
>
>
>
> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
> they used as an assembly lube.
>
it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in
the garage for a season and watch what happens!
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
>
>
>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
>>pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
>>fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>
>
>
>
> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
> they used as an assembly lube.
>
it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in
the garage for a season and watch what happens!
05-14-2006, 11:32 AM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
TeGGeR® wrote:
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
>
>
>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
>>pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
>>fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>
>
>
>
> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
> they used as an assembly lube.
>
it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in
the garage for a season and watch what happens!
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>
>
>
>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push the
>>pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the preserving
>>fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>
>
>
>
> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
> they used as an assembly lube.
>
it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in
the garage for a season and watch what happens!
05-14-2006, 06:25 PM
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>
>>
>>
>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>> fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>
> it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
> humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
> rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
> in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>
Ah, well.
In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
well.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>
>>
>>
>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>> fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>
> it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
> humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
> rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
> in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>
Ah, well.
In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
well.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 06:25 PM
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>
>>
>>
>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>> fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>
> it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
> humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
> rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
> in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>
Ah, well.
In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
well.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>
>>
>>
>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>> fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>
> it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
> humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
> rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
> in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>
Ah, well.
In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
well.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 06:25 PM
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>
>>
>>
>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>> fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>
> it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
> humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
> rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
> in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>
Ah, well.
In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
well.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>> vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>
>>
>>
>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>> fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>
> it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
> humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
> rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
> in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>
Ah, well.
In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
well.
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
05-14-2006, 09:02 PM
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
TeGGeR® wrote:
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
> news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>
>>TeGGeR® wrote:
>>
>>>jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>>>vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>>>fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>>
>>
>>it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
>>humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
>>rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
>>in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>>
>
>
>
>
> Ah, well.
>
> In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
> installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
> well.
>
may as well do it on the car. bolt on, connect but don't tighten the
fluid lines, bleed away. good deal less messy than getting fluid all
over your bench. the car has to be washed off after installation anyway.
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
> news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>
>>TeGGeR® wrote:
>>
>>>jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>>>vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>>>fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>>
>>
>>it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
>>humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
>>rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
>>in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>>
>
>
>
>
> Ah, well.
>
> In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
> installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
> well.
>
may as well do it on the car. bolt on, connect but don't tighten the
fluid lines, bleed away. good deal less messy than getting fluid all
over your bench. the car has to be washed off after installation anyway.
05-14-2006, 09:02 PM
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much brake fluid would ge good?
TeGGeR® wrote:
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
> news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>
>>TeGGeR® wrote:
>>
>>>jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>>>vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>>>fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>>
>>
>>it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
>>humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
>>rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
>>in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>>
>
>
>
>
> Ah, well.
>
> In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
> installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
> well.
>
may as well do it on the car. bolt on, connect but don't tighten the
fluid lines, bleed away. good deal less messy than getting fluid all
over your bench. the car has to be washed off after installation anyway.
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
> news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>
>>TeGGeR® wrote:
>>
>>>jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn-
>>>vQ@speakeasy.net:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>yes, fully bleed afterwards. use the full "have an assistant push
>>>>the pedal to the floor" technique, especially on a new m/c as the
>>>>preserving fluid that's in there can sometimes cause airlocks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake
>>>fluid they used as an assembly lube.
>>>
>>
>>it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
>>humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
>>rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out
>>in the garage for a season and watch what happens!
>>
>
>
>
>
> Ah, well.
>
> In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
> installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
> well.
>
may as well do it on the car. bolt on, connect but don't tighten the
fluid lines, bleed away. good deal less messy than getting fluid all
over your bench. the car has to be washed off after installation anyway.