Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> The bolt is a pretty stout one. It has to be, considering the waling on them
> we are doing without them moving! But if the head breaks off, there is the
> question of what it would take to remove the remains from inside the
> crankshaft. I have heard speculation that the threads are loc-tited, but I
> doubt it. They are just beastly tight. It would be a real risk to commit to
> removing the bolt body without damaging the crank threads.
>
> Today I got a regulator and guage to put at the impact wrench. I haven't
> tried it on the bolt yet, but the guage indicates I get 20 psi drop through
> the 3/8 inch hose when I put 90 lbs on the hose at the tank and run the
> impact driver no-load. Now I can run the hose at 120-140 psi and regulate it
> to 90 at the tool.
>
> Another piece of the puzzle is the restraint of the pulley. I still expect
> to just use the gearbox and brakes to backstop the impact driver.
>
> Mike
>
> <aaa> wrote in message news:mub5p01bblo6qj32cjuki455u2453g4vqk@4ax.com...
>
>>I have been reading all the messages relating to the infernal pully
>>bolt. What I have read would frighten the pope.
>>
>>I was wondering if if would be possible to use a bolt breaker on the
>>pully bolt and simply replace it with a new one?
>>
>>I know bolt breakers are fairly cheap and how much could HONDA CHARGE
>>FOR A NEW NUT?
>>
>>
>>
>>Regards
>>Frank
>>
>>On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 14:28:05 -0700, "Michael Pardee"
>><michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You're reading my mind, T. I went to the local rental place and the
>>>knowledgable-sounding mechanic said he had used their 440 ft-lb electric
>>>(with 3/4 drive) to break loose a Subaru and a Honda crank bolt. 440 is
>>>less
>>>than 500, so something is incomplete....
>>>
>>>A 50 ft 3/8 inch hose with a cheap regulator at the tank isn't what I'd
>>>choose for best whack. I'm headed to the stores today to see about a 1/2
>>>inch hose and a regulator to put at the driver end, so I can pump the hose
>>>up to 120 lbs without blowing up the tool.
>>>
>>>In addition, I'm thinking about using the strap wrench on the socket (it
>>>is
>>>a deep socket) to take the slack out. My son said the socket got hot to
>>>the
>>>touch, so we must be losing some of the energy at the socket interface,
>>>too.
>>>I'm hoping the strap wrench will take care of that.
>>>
>>>I've seen ads for tools to counterhold the pulley from the inside - they
>>>fit
>>>that large hex recess - and it would be nice to have one. That would
>>>probably "buck" the bolt best, especially if I could rest it on a
>>>jackstand.
>>>
>>>I'm just glad we aren't in a hurry.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message
>>>news:0f890b0a5bd59c4c35d13f8e4578457a@localhost .talkaboutautos.com...
>>>
>>>>I used a chain wrench to immobilize the crankshaft, and
>>>>used some jackstands for a fulcrum, with a 6 foot breaker
>>>>bar. It did NOT work. Perhaps if I had the proper crank
>>>>immobilizer, but I am fairly certain that I would have
>>>>just broken some tools.
>>>>
>>>>But I think Michael has the right idea, some heat (not too
>>>>much as you don't want to cook the seals) would probably do
>>>>the trick. In fact, if you think about it, thats what an
>>>>impact gun would do after a while, that bolt would get
>>>>really hot, even if it wasn't spinning.
>>>>
>>>>Michael, I think the big difference is not really the air tool, at
>>>>least not if its 500ft-lbs or over, in my opinion. The big
>>>>difference is the strength of your compressor. Also, the
>>>>size and length of the air hose going to the gun. When I
>>>>took my car to Honda finally, they used their 1/2" air hose,
>>>>not a 3/8 like we all use.
>>>>
>>>>t
>>>>

why don't y'all just buy the freakin' tool? it's a damned sight cheaper
than paying a shop to change your belts - which is what you want, right?
and more importantly, it's a damned sight cheaper than messing up your
drivetrain by trying to hold the crank through the transmission! heck,
the number of people on this group doing this job, why not just buy one
& resell it here each time the next person needs to use it???

it's one of these two:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=697
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1217

people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of
the crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the
proper tool!!!

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> The bolt is a pretty stout one. It has to be, considering the waling on them
> we are doing without them moving! But if the head breaks off, there is the
> question of what it would take to remove the remains from inside the
> crankshaft. I have heard speculation that the threads are loc-tited, but I
> doubt it. They are just beastly tight. It would be a real risk to commit to
> removing the bolt body without damaging the crank threads.
>
> Today I got a regulator and guage to put at the impact wrench. I haven't
> tried it on the bolt yet, but the guage indicates I get 20 psi drop through
> the 3/8 inch hose when I put 90 lbs on the hose at the tank and run the
> impact driver no-load. Now I can run the hose at 120-140 psi and regulate it
> to 90 at the tool.
>
> Another piece of the puzzle is the restraint of the pulley. I still expect
> to just use the gearbox and brakes to backstop the impact driver.
>
> Mike
>
> <aaa> wrote in message news:mub5p01bblo6qj32cjuki455u2453g4vqk@4ax.com...
>
>>I have been reading all the messages relating to the infernal pully
>>bolt. What I have read would frighten the pope.
>>
>>I was wondering if if would be possible to use a bolt breaker on the
>>pully bolt and simply replace it with a new one?
>>
>>I know bolt breakers are fairly cheap and how much could HONDA CHARGE
>>FOR A NEW NUT?
>>
>>
>>
>>Regards
>>Frank
>>
>>On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 14:28:05 -0700, "Michael Pardee"
>><michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You're reading my mind, T. I went to the local rental place and the
>>>knowledgable-sounding mechanic said he had used their 440 ft-lb electric
>>>(with 3/4 drive) to break loose a Subaru and a Honda crank bolt. 440 is
>>>less
>>>than 500, so something is incomplete....
>>>
>>>A 50 ft 3/8 inch hose with a cheap regulator at the tank isn't what I'd
>>>choose for best whack. I'm headed to the stores today to see about a 1/2
>>>inch hose and a regulator to put at the driver end, so I can pump the hose
>>>up to 120 lbs without blowing up the tool.
>>>
>>>In addition, I'm thinking about using the strap wrench on the socket (it
>>>is
>>>a deep socket) to take the slack out. My son said the socket got hot to
>>>the
>>>touch, so we must be losing some of the energy at the socket interface,
>>>too.
>>>I'm hoping the strap wrench will take care of that.
>>>
>>>I've seen ads for tools to counterhold the pulley from the inside - they
>>>fit
>>>that large hex recess - and it would be nice to have one. That would
>>>probably "buck" the bolt best, especially if I could rest it on a
>>>jackstand.
>>>
>>>I'm just glad we aren't in a hurry.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message
>>>news:0f890b0a5bd59c4c35d13f8e4578457a@localhost .talkaboutautos.com...
>>>
>>>>I used a chain wrench to immobilize the crankshaft, and
>>>>used some jackstands for a fulcrum, with a 6 foot breaker
>>>>bar. It did NOT work. Perhaps if I had the proper crank
>>>>immobilizer, but I am fairly certain that I would have
>>>>just broken some tools.
>>>>
>>>>But I think Michael has the right idea, some heat (not too
>>>>much as you don't want to cook the seals) would probably do
>>>>the trick. In fact, if you think about it, thats what an
>>>>impact gun would do after a while, that bolt would get
>>>>really hot, even if it wasn't spinning.
>>>>
>>>>Michael, I think the big difference is not really the air tool, at
>>>>least not if its 500ft-lbs or over, in my opinion. The big
>>>>difference is the strength of your compressor. Also, the
>>>>size and length of the air hose going to the gun. When I
>>>>took my car to Honda finally, they used their 1/2" air hose,
>>>>not a 3/8 like we all use.
>>>>
>>>>t
>>>>

why don't y'all just buy the freakin' tool? it's a damned sight cheaper
than paying a shop to change your belts - which is what you want, right?
and more importantly, it's a damned sight cheaper than messing up your
drivetrain by trying to hold the crank through the transmission! heck,
the number of people on this group doing this job, why not just buy one
& resell it here each time the next person needs to use it???

it's one of these two:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=697
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1217

people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of
the crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the
proper tool!!!

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
> why don't y'all just buy the freakin' tool? it's a damned sight cheaper
> than paying a shop to change your belts - which is what you want, right?
> and more importantly, it's a damned sight cheaper than messing up your
> drivetrain by trying to hold the crank through the transmission! heck,
> the number of people on this group doing this job, why not just buy one
> & resell it here each time the next person needs to use it???
> it's one of these two:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=697
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1217
> people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
> the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
> reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
> high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of
> the crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the
> proper tool!!!

People should do fine with a practical tool like a crowbar on the starter
teeth (manuals transmission.) For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain. Here's a better one,
jam a whole roll of sisal rope into the cylinder near the pulley. The problem
with a special tool is its impractical nature. Use once and throw out and
then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of. Special tools are
the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about right,
like this one.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
> why don't y'all just buy the freakin' tool? it's a damned sight cheaper
> than paying a shop to change your belts - which is what you want, right?
> and more importantly, it's a damned sight cheaper than messing up your
> drivetrain by trying to hold the crank through the transmission! heck,
> the number of people on this group doing this job, why not just buy one
> & resell it here each time the next person needs to use it???
> it's one of these two:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=697
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1217
> people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
> the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
> reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
> high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of
> the crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the
> proper tool!!!

People should do fine with a practical tool like a crowbar on the starter
teeth (manuals transmission.) For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain. Here's a better one,
jam a whole roll of sisal rope into the cylinder near the pulley. The problem
with a special tool is its impractical nature. Use once and throw out and
then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of. Special tools are
the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about right,
like this one.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

burt squareman wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>why don't y'all just buy the freakin' tool? it's a damned sight cheaper
>>than paying a shop to change your belts - which is what you want, right?
>> and more importantly, it's a damned sight cheaper than messing up your
>>drivetrain by trying to hold the crank through the transmission! heck,
>>the number of people on this group doing this job, why not just buy one
>>& resell it here each time the next person needs to use it???
>>it's one of these two:
>>http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=697
>>http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1217
>>people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
>>the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
>>reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
>>high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of
>>the crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the
>>proper tool!!!
>
>
> People should do fine with a practical tool like a crowbar on the starter
> teeth (manuals transmission.)

i've seen that shear teeth.

> For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.

same.

> Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.

the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?

> Here's a better one,
> jam a whole roll of sisal rope into the cylinder near the pulley.

that works, but i'd only use it on a junker i didn't care about.

> The problem
> with a special tool is its impractical nature. Use once and throw out

don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.

> and
> then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
> like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
> human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
> proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
> is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.

you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
windup horror stories.

> Special tools are
> the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about right,
> like this one.
>
> http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>

that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

burt squareman wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>why don't y'all just buy the freakin' tool? it's a damned sight cheaper
>>than paying a shop to change your belts - which is what you want, right?
>> and more importantly, it's a damned sight cheaper than messing up your
>>drivetrain by trying to hold the crank through the transmission! heck,
>>the number of people on this group doing this job, why not just buy one
>>& resell it here each time the next person needs to use it???
>>it's one of these two:
>>http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=697
>>http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1217
>>people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
>>the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
>>reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
>>high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of
>>the crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the
>>proper tool!!!
>
>
> People should do fine with a practical tool like a crowbar on the starter
> teeth (manuals transmission.)

i've seen that shear teeth.

> For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.

same.

> Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.

the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?

> Here's a better one,
> jam a whole roll of sisal rope into the cylinder near the pulley.

that works, but i'd only use it on a junker i didn't care about.

> The problem
> with a special tool is its impractical nature. Use once and throw out

don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.

> and
> then relying on another individual or organization, since most men don't
> like to ask for directions. There's no chance of bending the crank with
> human muscle. Even if you're using hydraulics force there has never been
> proof of damage other than the motor mount jumping out. But 90 degrees
> is almost impossible with what most of us are capable of.

you're talking permanent bending. i'm talking elastic windup. read
back in this thread and earlier ones - caroline's comes to mind - for
windup horror stories.

> Special tools are
> the safest route but at least don't pay 60-$70 for it. 20-$30 is about right,
> like this one.
>
> http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm
>

that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message news:2fc43da9785484d0d9c9780d2fc149e0@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...

> I wouldn't try that [crank pulley bolt+starter] on a Honda,
> since the engine runs COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.

Works on some Acura Legends and 1982-4 Hondas.

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message news:2fc43da9785484d0d9c9780d2fc149e0@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...

> I wouldn't try that [crank pulley bolt+starter] on a Honda,
> since the engine runs COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.

Works on some Acura Legends and 1982-4 Hondas.

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:_-ydnUGF5_42_BLcRVn-tQ@sedona.net...

> I think you were lucky, Ricky, or not the first
> person to loosen those bolts.

There mostly 90-100K. I've sucessfully disassemble/
reassemble Honda starter solenoids, fuel pumps,
alternators, compressors, transmissions, fuel
injectors and etc without any hints of cursing.
Maybe this is the key.

> (I'm sure glad they were new engine mounts.)

I believe you can secure them.

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message news:_-ydnUGF5_42_BLcRVn-tQ@sedona.net...

> I think you were lucky, Ricky, or not the first
> person to loosen those bolts.

There mostly 90-100K. I've sucessfully disassemble/
reassemble Honda starter solenoids, fuel pumps,
alternators, compressors, transmissions, fuel
injectors and etc without any hints of cursing.
Maybe this is the key.

> (I'm sure glad they were new engine mounts.)

I believe you can secure them.

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:GKqdnW3jFZsdjA7cRVn-rw@comcast.com...

> > For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
>[ same.]

Impossible if done right.

> > People should do fine a crowbar on flywheel.
> [i've seen that shear teeth.]

That's a starter problem.

> > Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.
> [the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?]

Am I the only one who loves drilling holes? Plus, holder shipment takes days.

> > The problem with a special tool is its
> > impractical nature. Use once and throw out
> [don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
> underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.]

Our intent was on saving.

> [that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.]

I've done belts the 88-91. They come with pulley holes which
I immobilize with a cheap rod, why buy these $60-70 tools?

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:GKqdnW3jFZsdjA7cRVn-rw@comcast.com...

> > For autos, go for the flywheel with a fit tool.
>[ same.]

Impossible if done right.

> > People should do fine a crowbar on flywheel.
> [i've seen that shear teeth.]

That's a starter problem.

> > Or put a hole on the pulley and secure it to a chain.
> [the pulley's already designed with holding features - why not use them?]

Am I the only one who loves drilling holes? Plus, holder shipment takes days.

> > The problem with a special tool is its
> > impractical nature. Use once and throw out
> [don't care. it's still cheaper than paying through the nose for an
> underpaid-&-don't-care kid to do a lousy job at the local dealership.]

Our intent was on saving.

> [that works for 92 up, not the excellent 88-91's.]

I've done belts the 88-91. They come with pulley holes which
I immobilize with a cheap rod, why buy these $60-70 tools?

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
> people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
> the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
> reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
> high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of the
> crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the proper
> tool!!!
>
I don't think the crank bends. Cranks are mighty brittle and may break, but
I've never heard of one bending.

The 500 ft-lb impact should be the correct removal tool as long as I get 90
psi to it at the tool, and the Honda holding tool isn't available locally (I
checked). With the impact driver and the manual tranny, holding shouldn't be
a big problem anyway. My son works today but we might get a crack at it this
evening. At this stage, we only want to break the bolt loose and retorque to
spec so we have a clear shot at completing the job when his oil seals come
in.

Mike

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
> people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
> the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
> reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
> high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of the
> crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the proper
> tool!!!
>
I don't think the crank bends. Cranks are mighty brittle and may break, but
I've never heard of one bending.

The 500 ft-lb impact should be the correct removal tool as long as I get 90
psi to it at the tool, and the Honda holding tool isn't available locally (I
checked). With the impact driver and the manual tranny, holding shouldn't be
a big problem anyway. My son works today but we might get a crack at it this
evening. At this stage, we only want to break the bolt loose and retorque to
spec so we have a clear shot at completing the job when his oil seals come
in.

Mike

Re: my civic and its timing belt
 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:zrmdnVMzVf8mZg_cRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
>>people freak when they're getting 90 degrees of windup trying to loosen
>>the thing - well, no kidding - they're bending the crank!!! the only
>>reason the chuffing great industrial air tool works is because it has a
>>high /rate/ of torque application which works against the momentum of the
>>crank, not that needs to apply its full power. again, get the proper
>>tool!!!
>>
>
> I don't think the crank bends. Cranks are mighty brittle and may break, but
> I've never heard of one bending.

believe it or not, cranks are elastic, just like humungous great crow
bar like 30mm sway bars are elastic. we're not talking about permanent
plastic deformation, but reversible elastic windup under high torque.
[in physical terms, it's impossible for any component to take any load
without a degree of elastic deformation.]

>
> The 500 ft-lb impact should be the correct removal tool as long as I get 90
> psi to it at the tool, and the Honda holding tool isn't available locally (I
> checked).

that's why there's online suppliers of tools - as well as honda parts.

> With the impact driver and the manual tranny, holding shouldn't be
> a big problem anyway. My son works today but we might get a crack at it this
> evening. At this stage, we only want to break the bolt loose and retorque to
> spec so we have a clear shot at completing the job when his oil seals come
> in.

so there's still time to order the right tool? how does the cost of the
big impact driver compare to the holder?

>
> Mike
>

nothing personal mike - it's just that i used to be a mechanic and it
used to frustrate the heck out of me when someone came in with a vehicle
they'd fubared, then swear bind they'd never touched it. even though
their knuckes were still bleeding and fresh blood was all over the
broken whateveritwas. and then they'd complain about the extra labor
necessary to get their mess sorted out!

believe me, i have a patent on being cheap. i /don't/ have a patent on
costing myself more than i "saved" by not doing a job right & fouling it up.

now that i've finished ranting, yes, the big impact will definitely do
the job if you have a big enough air supply. often, a lot of home
systems just don't have the capacity to cope with the big pressure drops
of larger tools.