My Si has a DX motor!
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
dan wrote:
> What's the difference with the Si? could you just get the "Si" badge on
> ebay or something and just stick it on?
no, as the op said, it's got rear disks and it's 4pfi. the only thing
that's not "si" is the lump under the hood - all systems are present and
correct by the sound of it.
>
> dan
>
> Tegger wrote:
>
>> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I
>> believe the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
> What's the difference with the Si? could you just get the "Si" badge on
> ebay or something and just stick it on?
no, as the op said, it's got rear disks and it's 4pfi. the only thing
that's not "si" is the lump under the hood - all systems are present and
correct by the sound of it.
>
> dan
>
> Tegger wrote:
>
>> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I
>> believe the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
dan wrote:
> What's the difference with the Si? could you just get the "Si" badge on
> ebay or something and just stick it on?
no, as the op said, it's got rear disks and it's 4pfi. the only thing
that's not "si" is the lump under the hood - all systems are present and
correct by the sound of it.
>
> dan
>
> Tegger wrote:
>
>> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I
>> believe the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
> What's the difference with the Si? could you just get the "Si" badge on
> ebay or something and just stick it on?
no, as the op said, it's got rear disks and it's 4pfi. the only thing
that's not "si" is the lump under the hood - all systems are present and
correct by the sound of it.
>
> dan
>
> Tegger wrote:
>
>> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I
>> believe the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <Xns98C3B74A11A42tegger@207.14.116.130>, tegger@tegger.c0m
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <Xns98C3B74A11A42tegger@207.14.116.130>, tegger@tegger.c0m
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <Xns98C3B74A11A42tegger@207.14.116.130>, tegger@tegger.c0m
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <Xns98C3B74A11A42tegger@207.14.116.130>, tegger@tegger.c0m
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
says...
> Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote in
> news:MPG.2022d3fac955b66998a15b@207.14.116.130:
>
> >
> > Well, in that case...JHMED9364LSxxxxxx.
>
>
>
> 1990 Honda CRX
> D16A6 SOHC 1.6 engine.
>
> This vehicle does not appear to be an Si, but I could be wrong. I believe
> the Si would have a "7" where you have a "6"..
Not according to the Wikipedia link I posted, but I also checked this
site:
http://www.answers.com/topic/honda-automotive-vin-codes
and they say the same thing as the Wikipedia entry:
JHM = Japan/Honda/Passenger car
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
3 = 3 door
6 = multiple entries, including both the CRX HF and Si. The DX would
have a 5 here. 7 = various models of Civic, Accord, and Prelude, but no
CRXes.
Another data point: per the owner's manual, there's supposed to be a
identification plate next to the radiator (right above the driver's side
headlight) containing the engine number. This plate is missing on my
car.
Dave
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <IoGdnbtWzrM9iCTYnZ2dnUVZ_vyunZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <IoGdnbtWzrM9iCTYnZ2dnUVZ_vyunZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <IoGdnbtWzrM9iCTYnZ2dnUVZ_vyunZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <IoGdnbtWzrM9iCTYnZ2dnUVZ_vyunZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> Dave Garrett wrote:
> > In article <5bGdncG_8trWqyXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@speakeasy.net> ,
> > spamvortex@bad.example.net says...
> >> Dave Garrett wrote:
> >>> I think I posted about this when my timing belt was changed a couple of
> >>> years ago; the short version was that my usual mechanic told me after
> >>> he'd finished the work that he thought my 90 CRX Si had a 1.5L engine
> >>> instead of the usual 1.6, because the timing belt for a 1.6 didn't fit,
> >>> but the belt from a 1.5 did. He claimed to have called a friend at a
> >>> Honda dealer who told him that 1.5L engines had been installed in some
> >>> Si models.
> >> <snip>
> >>
> >> that's b.s. the only way this happens is either if the car is
> >> crashed/stolen parted out, then later rebuilt again with the cheap
> >> motor, or the d16 blew and a cheapo d15 block was used as replacement.
> >> whatever the deal, it's /way/ too late to do anything about the person
> >> that did the work. if you want you can get d16's as jdm replacements
> >> for not an incredible amount of money. depending on local emissions
> >> laws, you can maybe get away with a zc motor - some of those are sweet -
> >> cheap too.
> >
> > I thought it sounded like BS at the time too. I don't know enough about
> > the details of the differences between the two engines - do they use the
> > same block, or is it significantly different?
>
> i don't do rebuilds so i don't know for sure, but afaik, the blocks and
> heads are identical. the crank is slightly longer stroke [to give the
> extra few cc's of capacity] and the cam is a little more punchy, but
> other than that, they're the same.
That's what I was wondering, if the block was the same and the longer
stroke was from a different crank. Thanks for confirming that.
> > And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> > date other than never patronizing that dealer again. If I'm going to do
> > a swap, I'm inclined to go for a B16 for a significant power boost. But
> > as you're probably well aware, a B16 transplant isn't nearly as easy a
> > bolt-in as a ZC - off the top of my head, you need new motor mounts,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > new
> > axles,
>
> are you sure?
>
> > a wiring subharness to connect the VTEC controller, a new ECU,
>
> yes & yes.
>
> > a
> > new gauge cluster,
>
> not if you use a cable transmission.
>
> > and a new AC bracket (where I live, not having AC in
> > the summer is a significant problem, so I need to keep it functioning).
> > That's probably at least $2K in parts before you even get started on the
> > labor to install everything. Hence my earlier comment about trying to
> > find another CRX that's already had a B16 professionally installed.
>
> define "professional"! if you've had this crx for a while and know its
> history, stick with it. otherwise you have no idea what you're getting
> into. the most important thing is to find someone to do the swap that's
> not going to rip you. by the sound of it, half the stuff you've just
> mentioned is coming from a source that's trying to set you up to put
> their kids through college.
Well, I haven't talked to anyone yet about doing this, I'm just at the
point of doing research online to see what's involved. Most of the swap
sites I've looked at state that new motor mounts are required to plug a
B16 into a CRX, and the favored choice seems to be Hasport. As far as
axles, again, given the significant power increase, I've not seen too
many recommendations for using the D16/D15 axles, and I was also under
the impression that they didn't bolt directly up to a B16.
But yeah, your point about "professional" is well-taken - there's no
real way to know if modifications of this sort were done correctly
unless you've done them yourself or you have a shop you can implicitly
trust to do the job you ask them to do without screwing you over. I'm
definitely not interested in building a show car, or trying to squeeze
as much power as possible out of a setup that spends more time being
tuned and repaired than being driven. I'm more interested in building
the CRX that it seems like Honda everywhere but in the US, namely, a
naturally-aspirated, B16-powered one with somewhere between 160-200hp
that will be driven daily. However...
> find out if the zc will pass your local emissions laws, then do the zc
> swap. that motor is cheap, hella fast [160hp from a 1600 motor], and a
> straight bolt-in. then you can keep everything else. and be careful
> who you ask!!! talk with a smog person. here in ca, we have "test
> only" stations that are forbidden to do work on the vehicles so have no
> interest in trying to sell you on stuff you don't need. my local guy is
> a honda fan and was delighted to me about what i can and can't do for
> egr systems if i want to do mods without getting the vehicle refereed.
>
> one last thing: if you want to be cheap, just get the si cam and swap it
> into your d15. you're only losing 97cc's. you could probably do that
> yourself. better yet, get an hot aftermarket cam. no problems with
> a/c, vtec, transmission, mounts, etc., etc. do it with the engine still
> in the car.
Again, good points. A ZC would certainly be easier, and a lot cheaper,
but I assume you're talking about a tuned one? I've never heard of a
stock ZC with 160hp. I'm in Texas, so the smog laws are not nearly as
much of an issue as they are in CA.
I'm still wondering exactly what it is that I have under the hood in my
car - it's starting to sound like someone blew the original 1.6 motor
and either swapped in a D15 or used a D15 block and crank with perhaps
some D16 internals to get it running again.
Thanks for the advice - maybe I'll start with a ZC swap and see how long
it takes me to get bored with that. :-)
Dave
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <MPG.2022bac2940e63d898a15a@207.14.116.130>,
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <MPG.2022bac2940e63d898a15a@207.14.116.130>,
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <MPG.2022bac2940e63d898a15a@207.14.116.130>,
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <MPG.2022bac2940e63d898a15a@207.14.116.130>,
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, to say that I'm a bit chapped is probably an understatement.
> This should've been disclosed by the dealer.
Um, no, you should have opened the hood and looked and known exactly
what you were buying.
The used car dealer's job is merely to present the car to you. It's not
his job to be your friend, hold your hand, and look out for your best
interests. You're on your own.
That's not meant to be mean; it's simply reality. It's time you owned
up to the fact that you live in reality.
Did you do a carfax? What did it say?
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: My Si has a DX motor!
In article <MPG.2022b9f3e9997c0b98a159@207.14.116.130>,
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> date other than never patronizing that dealer again.
How the hell would HE know? This is a used car. He got it and is now
reselling it.
If he ed up and ended up with a car that was hard/impossible to
sell, that's his problem. But he just bought a car and is trying to
sell it. He's not there to look after your best interests.
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com> wrote:
> And yeah, I'm certainly not expecting to have any recourse at this late
> date other than never patronizing that dealer again.
How the hell would HE know? This is a used car. He got it and is now
reselling it.
If he ed up and ended up with a car that was hard/impossible to
sell, that's his problem. But he just bought a car and is trying to
sell it. He's not there to look after your best interests.