Michael Pardee

"jack42038" <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a841d736-9b38-4c0d-a076-28645bb8aa23@e18g2000yqo.googlegroups.com...
Sounds like both the kerosene and the lacquer thinner approach are the
same sort of fix. Tegger, were you talking about leaving the kerosene
sit in the engine, unmoved for a couple of weeks? I may not have the
luxury of letting it sit that long.

I have used lacquer thinner before in small engine repair. I works.
Stabil does the same thing though. It cleans out stuff in the same
fashion. Ive watched it completely dissolve carbon and varnish on a
weedeater engine.

OKAY, here's the other big question. Until it is warmer and I can
pull this off the road and effect repairs, what will it do to the
engine to run it on 3 pistons? I'm not kidding when I say it is
running fine. What will happen to the engine if it is run this way?
It only has 168,000 miles on it. I have seen these engines on eBay
for 175, does anyone know anything about them??

I'm going to try the lacquer thinner I think.

Thanks again, you guys are a lot of help.
=============================================

You should be okay as long as you unplug the fuel injector. Don't expect
great fuel economy, but it should be drivable. Who knows - maybe the ring
(if stuck) will work itself loose while you drive.

Mike

jack42038

On Dec 15, 9:05 pm, "Michael Pardee" <n...@null.org> wrote:
> "jack42038" <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:a841d736-9b38-4c0d-a076-28645bb8aa23@e18g2000yqo.googlegroups.com...
> Sounds like both the kerosene and the lacquer thinner approach are the
> same sort of fix. Tegger, were you talking about leaving the kerosene
> sit in the engine, unmoved for a couple of weeks? I may not have the
> luxury of letting it sit that long.
>
> I have used lacquer thinner before in small engine repair. I works.
> Stabil does the same thing though. It cleans out stuff in the same
> fashion. Ive watched it completely dissolve carbon and varnish on a
> weedeater engine.
>
> OKAY, here's the other big question. Until it is warmer and I can
> pull this off the road and effect repairs, what will it do to the
> engine to run it on 3 pistons? I'm not kidding when I say it is
> running fine. What will happen to the engine if it is run this way?
> It only has 168,000 miles on it. I have seen these engines on eBay
> for 175, does anyone know anything about them??
>
> I'm going to try the lacquer thinner I think.
>
> Thanks again, you guys are a lot of help.
> =============================================
>
> You should be okay as long as you unplug the fuel injector. Don't expect
> great fuel economy, but it should be drivable. Who knows - maybe the ring
> (if stuck) will work itself loose while you drive.
>
> Mike

Should I also disconnect the corresponding spark plug?

The fuel economy has been 25mpg so far. Hey, what's wrong with a
three cylinder engine after all?? I know a lot of people who aren't
using all cylinders.

Peace!
Jack

Michael Pardee

"jack42038" <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0d1ee915-a28c-41bb-90b9-f8c74fc20b9c@v15g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 15, 9:05 pm, "Michael Pardee" <n...@null.org> wrote:
> "jack42038" <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:a841d736-9b38-4c0d-a076-28645bb8aa23@e18g2000yqo.googlegroups.com...
> Sounds like both the kerosene and the lacquer thinner approach are the
> same sort of fix. Tegger, were you talking about leaving the kerosene
> sit in the engine, unmoved for a couple of weeks? I may not have the
> luxury of letting it sit that long.
>
> I have used lacquer thinner before in small engine repair. I works.
> Stabil does the same thing though. It cleans out stuff in the same
> fashion. Ive watched it completely dissolve carbon and varnish on a
> weedeater engine.
>
> OKAY, here's the other big question. Until it is warmer and I can
> pull this off the road and effect repairs, what will it do to the
> engine to run it on 3 pistons? I'm not kidding when I say it is
> running fine. What will happen to the engine if it is run this way?
> It only has 168,000 miles on it. I have seen these engines on eBay
> for 175, does anyone know anything about them??
>
> I'm going to try the lacquer thinner I think.
>
> Thanks again, you guys are a lot of help.
> =============================================
>
> You should be okay as long as you unplug the fuel injector. Don't expect
> great fuel economy, but it should be drivable. Who knows - maybe the ring
> (if stuck) will work itself loose while you drive.
>
> Mike

Should I also disconnect the corresponding spark plug?

The fuel economy has been 25mpg so far. Hey, what's wrong with a
three cylinder engine after all?? I know a lot of people who aren't
using all cylinders.

Peace!
Jack

==================================================

Leave the plug connected. It isn't hurting anything and running with one
lead open (unless you ground it) is bad news for the coil.
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badcoil

Mike

Tegger

jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:a841d736-9b38-4c0d-a076-28645bb8aa23@e18g2000yqo.googlegroups.com:


>
> Sounds like both the kerosene and the lacquer thinner approach are the
> same sort of fix. Tegger, were you talking about leaving the kerosene
> sit in the engine, unmoved for a couple of weeks? I may not have the
> luxury of letting it sit that long.



Leave it sit as long as you can, then. Maybe do repeated shorter
applications.


>
> I have used lacquer thinner before in small engine repair. I works.
> Stabil does the same thing though. It cleans out stuff in the same
> fashion. Ive watched it completely dissolve carbon and varnish on a
> weedeater engine.



So try it.



>
> OKAY, here's the other big question. Until it is warmer and I can
> pull this off the road and effect repairs, what will it do to the
> engine to run it on 3 pistons? I'm not kidding when I say it is
> running fine.



You know what? You've got absolutely nothing to lose at this point. Except
eventual damage to the catalytic converter, which isn't important if you
don't have to have the car smogged.

Just drive it as-is.

If there's a stuck ring, you'll know because you'll burn oil like crazy.
And it's just possible that regular use will eventually break the ring
free. It the problem never goes away, then you've got a truly dead cylinder
and you can either continue to live with it or replace the engine.




--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

jack42038

Ok, that's the bottom I was looking for. Now, let's look at this from
a different direction. My oldest son knows absolutely nothing about
mechanics. If nothing else, this is tuition. We could rebuild the
pistons and have the head machined or swapped out for a known good
one. I have the space and the friends to do so, but not until it is
warmer.

In the end, if I have a 1986 Honda Accord LXI with a great running
engine, don't I have something that is worth at least a little bit? I
can do the body work, the electrical work is easy. Wouldn't this then
be a classic of some kind?

If not, at least it will be a car paid for free and clear.

So, options at this point as I see them, and feel free to let me know
of any positive ones I have missed.

#1 Run it as is and shoot some lube to the cylinder from time to time
to try and free the ring.

#2 Wait until it is warm and drop the pan, remove the head and
hopefully find that all I need to do is rering the pistons and maybe
hone the cylinder.

#3 New engine. There's a guy selling these on ebay for $175. Anyone
know of a better deal for an engine guaranteed to be working? This
will have to wait till warmer weather.

#4 Call it a loss. (Against my nature, not likely at all.)

Again, if you guys have a brain storm and are not injured in the
process, please share..

Peace and where appropriate Merry Christmas or Happy Chanukah as the
case may be.
Jack

Elle

"jack42038" <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote
> #3 New engine. There's a guy selling these on ebay for
> $175. Anyone
> know of a better deal for an engine guaranteed to be
> working? This
> will have to wait till warmer weather.

Have the link? Honda engines are indeed pretty widely
available. Never seen one this cheap, though. Find a
reputable seller and even if it costs closer to $600 for the
engine, and this is the way I would go. If one set of rings
stuck, seems to me the others, and other parts, may show
problems.

The internet will turn up many sellers of used Honda
engines. Honda-tech.com is a very good resource for swapping
engines, both where to buy and how to do it.

Tegger

jack42038 <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in news:3037fafe-9f99-456b-bf7f-
39a1a139ff34@k9g2000vbl.googlegroups.com:

>
>
> Ok, that's the bottom I was looking for. Now, let's look at this from
> a different direction. My oldest son knows absolutely nothing about
> mechanics. If nothing else, this is tuition. We could rebuild the
> pistons and have the head machined or swapped out for a known good
> one. I have the space and the friends to do so, but not until it is
> warmer.



Don't try to rebuild an engine yourself. Waste of money, as it will fail
REALLY fast.

You can read Elle's message, and then check your local Yellow Pages for
a local wreckers, or a used Japanese engine vendor. The JDM F22B DOHC L4
is a popular swap, and may fit in this car.



>
> In the end, if I have a 1986 Honda Accord LXI with a great running
> engine, don't I have something that is worth at least a little bit? I
> can do the body work, the electrical work is easy. Wouldn't this then
> be a classic of some kind?




You'd think, but with a very few exceptions (Nissan 240-Z, Toyota MR-2),
I think Japanese cars will be disdained on this side of the Pacific for
the foreseeable future, which is really too bad.



>
> If not, at least it will be a car paid for free and clear.



That's the way to think of it.



>
> So, options at this point as I see them, and feel free to let me know
> of any positive ones I have missed.
>
> #1 Run it as is and shoot some lube to the cylinder from time to time
> to try and free the ring.



This is a very good idea. But I think you've just got a dead cylinder...



>
> #2 Wait until it is warm and drop the pan, remove the head and
> hopefully find that all I need to do is rering the pistons and maybe
> hone the cylinder.




BAD BAD BAD idea!!!! BAD. Very bad. Don't do this. You will waste your
time and money. An engine needs to come right out for a rebuild that
will last more than 200 miles. This is not a 1929 Ford.




>
> #3 New engine. There's a guy selling these on ebay for $175.



Blah. Forget that. Find a local source, where you can at least go there
and beat somebody up if something goes wrong.




> Anyone
> know of a better deal for an engine guaranteed to be working? This
> will have to wait till warmer weather.



Call your local wrecking yard. Or check here: www.car-part.com

Wreckers have perfectly good engines they end up only selling to
garages, because people like you don't know they exist.



>
> #4 Call it a loss. (Against my nature, not likely at all.)


If the body is sound, there's no reason not to have some fun with it.



>
> Again, if you guys have a brain storm and are not injured in the
> process, please share..
>
> Peace and where appropriate Merry Christmas or Happy Chanukah as the
> case may be.



Happy Farmer's Wash Day.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Erik

> > Peace and where appropriate Merry Christmas or Happy Chanukah as the
> > case may be.


Complements of the season (after the lawyers have
finished)

Please accept with no obligation, implied or
implicit, our best wishes for an environmentally
conscious, socially responsible, low stress,
non-addictive, gender neutral, celebration of the
winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most
enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion of
your choice, or secular practices of your choice,
with respect for the religious/secular persuasions,
and/or traditions of others, or their choice not to
practice, religious or secular traditions at all.

Wishing you a fiscally successful, personally
fulfilling, and medically uncomplicated recognition
of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year
2009, but not without due respect for the calendars
of choice of other cultures whose contributions to
society, have helped make America great, (not to
imply that America is necessarily greater than any
other country or is the only "AMERICA", in the
western hemisphere), and without regard to the race,
creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith,
and choice of computer platform.

(By accepting this greeting, you are accepting these
terms. This greeting is subject to clarification or
withdrawal. It is freely transferable with no
alteration to the original greeting. It implies no
promise by the wisher to actually implement any of
the wishes for her/himself or others, and is void
where prohibited by law, and is revocable at the sole
discretion of the wisher. This wish is warranted to
perform as expected within the usual application of
good tidings for a period of one year, or until the
issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever
comes first, and warranty is limited to replacement
of this wish or issuance of a new wish at the sole
discretion of the wisher.)

Erik

jack42038

On Dec 16, 10:55 pm, Erik <e...@spam.this> wrote:
> > > Peace and where appropriate Merry Christmas or Happy Chanukah as the
> > > case may be.
>
> Complements of the season (after the lawyers have
> finished)
>
> Please accept with no obligation, implied or
> implicit, our best wishes for an environmentally
> conscious, socially responsible, low stress,
> non-addictive, gender neutral, celebration of the
> winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most
> enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion of
> your choice, or secular practices of your choice,
> with respect for the religious/secular persuasions,
> and/or traditions of others, or their choice not to
> practice, religious or secular traditions at all.
>
> Wishing you a fiscally successful, personally
> fulfilling, and medically uncomplicated recognition
> of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year
> 2009, but not without due respect for the calendars
> of choice of other cultures whose contributions to
> society, have helped make America great, (not to
> imply that America is necessarily greater than any
> other country or is the only "AMERICA", in the
> western hemisphere), and without regard to the race,
> creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith,
> and choice of computer platform.
>
> (By accepting this greeting, you are accepting these
> terms. This greeting is subject to clarification or
> withdrawal. It is freely transferable with no
> alteration to the original greeting. It implies no
> promise by the wisher to actually implement any of
> the wishes for her/himself or others, and is void
> where prohibited by law, and is revocable at the sole
> discretion of the wisher. This wish is warranted to
> perform as expected within the usual application of
> good tidings for a period of one year, or until the
> issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever
> comes first, and warranty is limited to replacement
> of this wish or issuance of a new wish at the sole
> discretion of the wisher.)
>
> Erik

GD man that was awesome. I have to applaud your ability to include
everyone and everything. Merry everything without obligation to
anything to you as well. Peace!!!!

My son and I are now playing with the engine. After all we are just
morons knocking around. It's not as if I resurrected a dead 1997
Jaguar XJ6 and made it click on all cylinders.

I have tried various of the suggestions and intend next to remove the
head if this doesnt work. I will also drop the pan, do new rings and
and pistons and make the engine what I want it to be. I may be an
absolute moron for trying but I don't care. I will count it tuition
towards my son's learning how to work on a motor vehicle. I only have
300 in in the vehicle to begin with and a little play money to make it
into something. I think I probably won't screw a ring/piston job up
too bad.

Peace!
Jack

jack42038

On Dec 16, 10:40 am, "Elle" <honda.lion...@gmail.com> wrote:
> "jack42038" <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote
>
> > #3 New engine. There's a guy selling these on ebay for
> > $175. Anyone
> > know of a better deal for an engine guaranteed to be
> > working? This
> > will have to wait till warmer weather.
>
> Have the link? Honda engines are indeed pretty widely
> available. Never seen one this cheap, though. Find a
> reputable seller and even if it costs closer to $600 for the
> engine, and this is the way I would go. If one set of rings
> stuck, seems to me the others, and other parts, may show
> problems.
>
> The internet will turn up many sellers of used Honda
> engines. Honda-tech.com is a very good resource for swapping
> engines, both where to buy and how to do it.

Here is the link for the engines on eBay. I believe they answered the
phone "Beaver". The have a computer operated voice mail and seem to
be quite professional. Though the young man that I spoke to said he
didn't have any idea about swaps for these "older" engines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123

When I inquired they sent me an 800 number to call.

Peace!
Jack

jack42038

On Dec 16, 4:55 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> jack42038 <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:3037fafe-9f99-456b-bf7f-
> 39a1a139f...@k9g2000vbl.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
> > Ok, that's the bottom I was looking for. Now, let's look at this from
> > a different direction. My oldest son knows absolutely nothing about
> > mechanics. If nothing else, this is tuition. We could rebuild the
> > pistons and have the head machined or swapped out for a known good
> > one. I have the space and the friends to do so, but not until it is
> > warmer.
>
> Don't try to rebuild an engine yourself. Waste of money, as it will fail
> REALLY fast.
>
> You can read Elle's message, and then check your local Yellow Pages for
> a local wreckers, or a used Japanese engine vendor. The JDM F22B DOHC L4
> is a popular swap, and may fit in this car.
>
>
>
> > In the end, if I have a 1986 Honda Accord LXI with a great running
> > engine, don't I have something that is worth at least a little bit? I
> > can do the body work, the electrical work is easy. Wouldn't this then
> > be a classic of some kind?
>
> You'd think, but with a very few exceptions (Nissan 240-Z, Toyota MR-2),
> I think Japanese cars will be disdained on this side of the Pacific for
> the foreseeable future, which is really too bad.
>
>
>
> > If not, at least it will be a car paid for free and clear.
>
> That's the way to think of it.
>
>
>
> > So, options at this point as I see them, and feel free to let me know
> > of any positive ones I have missed.
>
> > #1 Run it as is and shoot some lube to the cylinder from time to time
> > to try and free the ring.
>
> This is a very good idea. But I think you've just got a dead cylinder...
>
>
>
> > #2 Wait until it is warm and drop the pan, remove the head and
> > hopefully find that all I need to do is rering the pistons and maybe
> > hone the cylinder.
>
> BAD BAD BAD idea!!!! BAD. Very bad. Don't do this. You will waste your
> time and money. An engine needs to come right out for a rebuild that
> will last more than 200 miles. This is not a 1929 Ford.
>
>
>
> > #3 New engine. There's a guy selling these on ebay for $175.
>
> Blah. Forget that. Find a local source, where you can at least go there
> and beat somebody up if something goes wrong.
>
> > Anyone
> > know of a better deal for an engine guaranteed to be working? This
> > will have to wait till warmer weather.
>
> Call your local wrecking yard. Or check here:www.car-part.com
>
> Wreckers have perfectly good engines they end up only selling to
> garages, because people like you don't know they exist.
>
>
>
> > #4 Call it a loss. (Against my nature, not likely at all.)
>
> If the body is sound, there's no reason not to have some fun with it.
>
>
>
> > Again, if you guys have a brain storm and are not injured in the
> > process, please share..
>
> > Peace and where appropriate Merry Christmas or Happy Chanukah as the
> > case may be.
>
> Happy Farmer's Wash Day.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Ok, at this point we have tried the laquer thinner approach as well as
the Stabil. It got to a point where nothing would run down over the
piston anymore. I watched it for about three hours as it sat there
and initially it just piled up on top of the cylinder head and sort of
leaked away over time until at some point it stopped and wouldn't leak
anymore. To this humble observer, I would wonder if that doesn't mean
that something came loose and made a tighter seal in the cylinder?

I did fire it up and let it run some last night and it seems to run a
little smoother, but I will have to go back over to the shop with the
compression tester to see if that is any better for real. I can tell
you that it blasted the remains of the solvents out of the spark plug
hole with a GREAT DEAL of force before I replaced the plug. Before it
didn't spit anything anywhere. The one curious thing was that there
seemed to be no smoke coming from the exhaust from any of the solvents
I used. That may be because they were consumed in combustion more
efficiently than oil would be. I have seen the results of putting oil
on top of the cylinder to build up compression and I know that
generates quite a lot of smoke.

I could tell that the top of the piston was badly covered with
carbon. Not clean at all.

To finish the night I drained off about a pint of oil and filled the
case back up with sea-foam and ran it until it reached operating
temperature for about 30min. After that I drained it off, filled it
with 5w30 and 20oz of Rislone ring sealant. I know, additives are
usually junk, but I thought what the heck. Rislone is supposed to be
a good brand. At that point I came in and went to bed. I'll go back
out in a few and see how far it has come.

Unfortunately in Western Kentucky there are not and Junk Yards or
Wreckers that handle these types of engines on any kind of regular
basis. I don't know that anything will be obtainable within a 200mi
radius. Nashville quite probably has something, but as I said, I
won't be taking care of it this winter.

Thanks again
Jack

jack42038

On Dec 16, 4:55 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> jack42038 <jackla...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:3037fafe-9f99-456b-bf7f-
> 39a1a139f...@k9g2000vbl.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
> > Ok, that's the bottom I was looking for. Now, let's look at this from
> > a different direction. My oldest son knows absolutely nothing about
> > mechanics. If nothing else, this is tuition. We could rebuild the
> > pistons and have the head machined or swapped out for a known good
> > one. I have the space and the friends to do so, but not until it is
> > warmer.
>
> Don't try to rebuild an engine yourself. Waste of money, as it will fail
> REALLY fast.
>
> You can read Elle's message, and then check your local Yellow Pages for
> a local wreckers, or a used Japanese engine vendor. The JDM F22B DOHC L4
> is a popular swap, and may fit in this car.
>
>
>
> > In the end, if I have a 1986 Honda Accord LXI with a great running
> > engine, don't I have something that is worth at least a little bit? I
> > can do the body work, the electrical work is easy. Wouldn't this then
> > be a classic of some kind?
>
> You'd think, but with a very few exceptions (Nissan 240-Z, Toyota MR-2),
> I think Japanese cars will be disdained on this side of the Pacific for
> the foreseeable future, which is really too bad.
>
>
>
> > If not, at least it will be a car paid for free and clear.
>
> That's the way to think of it.
>
>
>
> > So, options at this point as I see them, and feel free to let me know
> > of any positive ones I have missed.
>
> > #1 Run it as is and shoot some lube to the cylinder from time to time
> > to try and free the ring.
>
> This is a very good idea. But I think you've just got a dead cylinder...
>
>
>
> > #2 Wait until it is warm and drop the pan, remove the head and
> > hopefully find that all I need to do is rering the pistons and maybe
> > hone the cylinder.
>
> BAD BAD BAD idea!!!! BAD. Very bad. Don't do this. You will waste your
> time and money. An engine needs to come right out for a rebuild that
> will last more than 200 miles. This is not a 1929 Ford.
>
>
>
> > #3 New engine. There's a guy selling these on ebay for $175.
>
> Blah. Forget that. Find a local source, where you can at least go there
> and beat somebody up if something goes wrong.
>
> > Anyone
> > know of a better deal for an engine guaranteed to be working? This
> > will have to wait till warmer weather.
>
> Call your local wrecking yard. Or check here:www.car-part.com
>
> Wreckers have perfectly good engines they end up only selling to
> garages, because people like you don't know they exist.
>
>
>
> > #4 Call it a loss. (Against my nature, not likely at all.)
>
> If the body is sound, there's no reason not to have some fun with it.
>
>
>
> > Again, if you guys have a brain storm and are not injured in the
> > process, please share..
>
> > Peace and where appropriate Merry Christmas or Happy Chanukah as the
> > case may be.
>
> Happy Farmer's Wash Day.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Do they still practice Farmer's Wash Day, or Salt Water day as some
call it? There was a wonderful article in the August 9th, 1896
edition of the New York Times about the many types of people that
descended upon Manasqua for the holiday, August 8th.

May it be well, but not so good as to spoil what you have!
Jack

Elle

"jack42038" <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote
Here is the link for the engines on eBay. I believe they
answered the
phone "Beaver". The have a computer operated voice mail and
seem to
be quite professional. Though the young man that I spoke to
said he
didn't have any idea about swaps for these "older" engines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
-------------


Interesting. Are you close enough to this ebay seller to
actually pick up the engine? Three things I would do

1. Ask if they have any documentation for the mileage on
their engines.
2. Ask at honda-tech.com (a) if anyone knows this seller;
and (b) other sellers people can recommend. Registration is
free. Honda-tech.com is overwhelmingly teens and
20-somethings that are serious hobbyists particularly in the
area of engine swaps.
3. Search the net for other Accord engine sellers. E.g. a
search I just did turned up
http://www.actionsalvage.com/Engine/...rd_Used_Engine

I echo Tegger's caveats about buying a used engine.

Michael Pardee

"jack42038" <jacklarwa@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e29cc1f1-19b6-46e0-8b56-91f7438aee5b@13g2000yql.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 16, 4:55 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:

Ok, at this point we have tried the laquer thinner approach as well as
the Stabil. It got to a point where nothing would run down over the
piston anymore. I watched it for about three hours as it sat there
and initially it just piled up on top of the cylinder head and sort of
leaked away over time until at some point it stopped and wouldn't leak
anymore. To this humble observer, I would wonder if that doesn't mean
that something came loose and made a tighter seal in the cylinder?

I did fire it up and let it run some last night and it seems to run a
little smoother, but I will have to go back over to the shop with the
compression tester to see if that is any better for real. I can tell
you that it blasted the remains of the solvents out of the spark plug
hole with a GREAT DEAL of force before I replaced the plug. Before it
didn't spit anything anywhere. The one curious thing was that there
seemed to be no smoke coming from the exhaust from any of the solvents
I used. That may be because they were consumed in combustion more
efficiently than oil would be. I have seen the results of putting oil
on top of the cylinder to build up compression and I know that
generates quite a lot of smoke.

I could tell that the top of the piston was badly covered with
carbon. Not clean at all.

To finish the night I drained off about a pint of oil and filled the
case back up with sea-foam and ran it until it reached operating
temperature for about 30min. After that I drained it off, filled it
with 5w30 and 20oz of Rislone ring sealant. I know, additives are
usually junk, but I thought what the heck. Rislone is supposed to be
a good brand. At that point I came in and went to bed. I'll go back
out in a few and see how far it has come.

Unfortunately in Western Kentucky there are not and Junk Yards or
Wreckers that handle these types of engines on any kind of regular
basis. I don't know that anything will be obtainable within a 200mi
radius. Nashville quite probably has something, but as I said, I
won't be taking care of it this winter.

Thanks again
Jack

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I admit - I'm geeking out over this whole thing. It is an area I've
sometimes wondered about (oil abuse probably leading to a dead cylinder) and
using a host of mud-wrestling things to bring it back. So far it sounds
promising, and I am really rooting for you.

I agree about the additives - they always seem like a shot in the dark, but
in this case you are trying to fix a specific problem. I imagine if this
works you will be changing out the Risloned oil after you feel it has done
all the voodoo it can.

There's no school like old school!

Mike

jack42038

Michael,

I will be changing out the oil again soon if it does work. I am not
fond of most additives. I do like Lucas, but it is 100% petroleum, so
I feel like it is less dangerous. It has also helped me a lot with
older engines. I appreciate the encouragement. Ive got a few other
tricks up my sleeve yet. As I said, there was so much carbon atop
that first piston, I can't imagine this will go away quickly. I am
going to do some experiments with some other solvents on the carbon
from the piston (OUTSIDE THE ENGINE) and see if there is any residual
pitting in the metal or anything that would cause the solvent to be
more harm than good. I have a woodshop, so there are quite a few
things out there that I am familiar with. I wondered briefly about
turpentine and will investigate that further. It dissolves gum
mastic, shellac and some types of varnish. Plain old paint remover is
pretty effective too, but I am afraid of possible pitting effects.
Similarly one might think of Easy Off as an option because of the way
it removes carbon in an oven, but it can have a nasty effect on some
metals. Soooo, that might be the last resort before the new engine.

Have you rebuilt any engines Michael? Or reringed any pistons?